I also use the continuity test mode on my meter that way I get an audible beep for good fuses and do not have to look at the meter when I am stuffed under a steering column checking multiple fuses
Lol. the first symbol you see is not a 1. It's an I which is the first letter in the word Infinity. It indicates an open circuit. In this case an open fuse.
That was th problem I was having with this video since they did not clarify that. Another video said that a value of 1 is a bad fuse. A value of 0 (or very close to it) is a good fuse.
Just what I need. I'm a single widowed chic trying to take some care of my 15 yr old Mazda 6 . Shoot I bought a multimeter and have no idea what to do. I need to check fuses under my hood, my passenger headlight won't work now
@@AznUzer to check with the ignition on in the vehicle, a 12 volt test light is best. Also if you check with a multitester in the vehicle, ignition switch on, then you need to set your meter up to read DC voltage! ground the black probe and use the red probe to touch the fuse on both sides of the fuse to see if you have power on both sides, or power passing through the fuse.
+KT Thompson Thanks for checking us out! This will set the maximum resistance to 20,000 ohms rather than a maximum resistance of 200 as in the other video that was seen. This varies depending on what you are testing. There are also many different types of multimeters available as well.
What are the reading on the tester when you touch both leads on the fuse, You never showed that, & what readings are good or bad, if you're show me show it All???
1st make sure your meter is on Ohms or continuity (Continuity looks like a wi-fi symbol on the meter) . On Ohms, a good fuse reads 0.000 or 0.001 or close to it. A bad fuse reads a whole number or on my meters it says "0L" which means Open Line and some meters say "OPEN". In the video at 2:07 his meter reads " 1 . " on his blown fuse. Using continuity can be helpful so you get an audible conformation so you don't need to read the meter and when you get no sound you would then confirm by switching to Ohms and testing again looking for 0L or a whole number 1 or Open. The other thing is when you test you need to have your meter in the right range, I use an auto ranging meter so it sets itself, pretty much so I have one less thing to be thinking about. With the auto ranging meter it starts at its highest setting for the safety of the meter and works its way down to the correct setting in a like a second so you can get precise readings, I don't want to have to adjust them. I'm sure there are probably are plenty of reasons you would want precise control over the Ohms settings ranging 20k to 200k or whatever the meter has, but I guess I see that as old school, kinda like manual transmission vs. automatic. No human can out shift a computer so manual transmissions are all going away now, however there is no harm in knowing how to use different machines at all so to each their own. Currently one of the best anti car theft devices is a manual transmission because no one knows how to drive them anymore. lol. Hopefully this helps someone.
I believe they do that for viewing purposes because it's more easier for the person to see what they're talking about. And when he mentioned testing a fuse on a metal surface because you'll get a wrong reading your car is a metal surface.
