Hey Adam Genez, I really glad to hear that. For 2020 I though about changing it, but even though I have heard it a million times, I still like it, so it stayed as is. Quick side note: Creating the 10 second intro took me over a month! I had to learn GarageBand and then use the built in loops to make the "song" and I know nothing about music. Now I have 10 seconds of intro, and I need to find 2-3 second clips and try to fit it to the music. I went through many, many different versions and the one you see is the last version. :)
Hey Kevin L, Well thank you very much, I appreciate it! Just in case you don't know, my other channel is OBD4Everyone, where you can learn about OBD scanners and apps: ru-vid.com Just in case you need something to do tomorrow :)
I hope You doing well, sir. Waiting for more interesting videos from you. It really helped me with my G35x in the past and now helps with my "new" G37xs. Greetings from Kyiv, Ukraine!
Hey 5tar5ky, I'm glad you find the videos helpful! The last few months we have been focused on creating content for our other channel ru-vid.com. I have two more episodes to produce, then back to MotorvateDIY. Last year we shot a few episodes (front hub replacement, brake rotor replacement, spark plug replacement and MAF cleaning) they just need to be edited and at about 40 hours of editing per episode they will take a while to get out. BUT, then we move on to explaining the ECU and testing the performance gain of an EcuTek tuned ECU. Hang in there, we have a lot of great and unique content to get out :)
Hey Leigh Hardy, Thanks... all it takes is a little Simple Green: Easy Under Hood Cleaning: Motorvate’s DIY Garage Ep.25 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-WZCiE3DzCng.html
Hey shanebrownlee69, Thanks. The $9 gauge is long gone and a 100 psi pressure sensor has been feeding my data recorder for the last 8 months. I've got some good info to share on a future episode :)
@@MotorvateDIY looking forward to it especially with that factory fuel system. I've been using am AEM stainless sensor for a while and it's really handy.
Hey shanebrownlee69, I almost purchased the 100 psi AEM stainless, but couldn't justify the $160 price, which is $215 Canadian, plus shipping, plus duty, plus taxes. Instead I found a nice Honeywell sensor for $75 Canadian... so far it is working well :)
Hey ArtemisArtz, Thanks. As our cars get older, this will be an important check. **Also** in a future episode I connect a 100 psi sensor to my Arduino based data logger, sample it 80 times per second and save it to a SD card in a CSV format. (easy to open in any spreadsheet program!)
Love the videos, definitely need more of them. Any further updates on the k&n drop ins? Can't decide if I should go with them or if it's worth going full CAI 😂
Oh boy... I have so much information/data to share. Last September, I did 15 dyno pulls with 5 different air filters (50,000KM K&N, new K&N, used paper from video #1, new Nissan/Infiniti filters and even 3 dyno pulls without ANY air filters, WHILE data logging 32 items through the OBD port and an additional 12 items (oil pressure, oil temp, trans temp, diff temp, fuel pressure, and even crankcase pressure!!) on my custom data logger. PLUS I just got back the results of my last used oil analysis from an oil change in February... The K&N filter installed in 2016 is still doing a good job :) My challenge is finding the time to analyze, organize and create an episode... BUT I am working on it :)
great vid, thanks for the help. now i have to decide if I want to buy the $70 part for diagnostic or just jump straight to new fuel pump. internet says they last 100k-200k miles and I'm only at 80k on mine... decisions, decisions... 🙃
Generally, the fuel pumps on the G37/370 do last a long time. An easier way to troubleshoot fuel related problems, it to use an OBD scanner and look at your fuel trims. If you have low fuel pressure or volume, the fuel trims will be VERY positive as it tries to add fuel. Just make sure to add "short term" and "long term" fuel trims for each bank. For a healthy engine, they should be between -15 to + 15%.
Adding fuel pressure (oil pressure, or anything else) data on the CAN bus is not difficult. BUT unless you add a module to use that data, it will be ignored by all the other modules on the CAN bus, as they are not programmed to use it. For OBD live data (mode $01) you can't "inject" that... OBD PID commands are sent to the ECU/PCM, typically using CAN ID 0x7E0. The supported PIDs are determined by the ECU/PCM. If you had a few thousands hours to reverse engineer the ECU/PCM, it might be possible to reprogram it so it can read the fuel pressure from the CAN bus, store the value in memory, the re-program the OBD section to add that PID. Soooo, great idea!! but very, very difficult to implement.
@@MotorvateDIY yeah. I am kinda internet warrior about that OBD/PID/CAN stuff. My train of thoughts were - inject that PID and in OBD-reader vulgaris add reading this PID and showing. I think I have read about some tuning companies doing that. On other hand - I have read somewhere that CAN gateways can/are filtering PIDs (so - there might be white list kinda of "protection" ). Anyway - heard good words about you and your work - and now will have some stuff to read more - Thanks!
Excellent question! I don't see a problem with attaching a 1/8 NPT to schrader valve to the fuel tap. That would allow you to easily check the fuel pressure. Just make sure the schrader valve it rated for 60+ PSI as the stock fuel system runs at 52ish psi. Just make sure to check for fuel leaks often, just in case the schrader valve can't handle the pressure or underhood temps.
Your video was well made layout explaining the CJ Motorsports fuel pressure kit. I just recently installed this on my 370z, not able to download the instructions of the CJ Motorsports I followed your video. Everything went well with my install but my fuel pressure was reading at 62 psi at idle and after turning the car off then waiting 30 minutes it looks like the pressure is down at 31 psi. What do you think could be possible causes of this?
62 psi at idle may be a little high... The factory spec is 350 KPa or 51 psi. However, if the car is running well and the fuel trims are -15 to + 15 all should be good. Also, 31 psi after 30 minutes is good, in my opinion. i don't think you have anything to worry about :)
Thank you for reaching back @@MotorvateDIY so I allowed the Z to run for a good 30 mins and realized the motor hadn't reached proper temp before checking the pressure to level out which was the cause haha my bad. The fuel pressure now reads a perfect 51-52 psi at idle.
Excellent Video! Can you tell me what section of the manual you found the specs for the bleed down value? I found a minimum of 51psi at idle but could not find the 30 minutes 30psi value. Thanks
The bleed down value was from a Nissan TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) for a 2007-09 Nissan Versa (TSB: NTB07-094c) Since all/most Nissan/Infiniti vehicles from 2003+ use a return-less fuel system, the spec should be a good guideline, and based on testing shown in the video. Thanks for your kind words and comment!
@@MotorvateDIY Copy, thanks again! FYI, I came to your video because I have been troubleshooting warm start problems with my 2011 370Z. I had installed a fuel rail adapter and found only 40PSI. Although low pressure, it held so I was confident I had no leaky injectors. I replaced the pump last night. Although in tact, I noted that the OEM had only a single spring on the pump assembly. Wondering if that is the original OEM configuration. Regardless, I replaced the pump last night and have 51 PSI that holds as well. I am hoping it fixes the problem, but about half of the forum subscribers indicated they had the pump replaced and the problem persisted. Any additional wisdom on this would be appreciated! Keep up the good work!!
I don't know if there should be 1 spring or 2, often parts are redesigned to reduce cost or increase reliability. Anyways, good troubleshooting on your part, and I suspect your warm start problems are resolved. Thanks for your kind words!
Your videos are always great!! (: Question: I replaced my fuel damper o-ring cause it was leaking but now... the leak now is really really slow . Why is that? Should I replace the entire Fuel damper line? Thanks !
Hey Sergio A, Thanks for your kind words! It can be hard to tell where the leak is coming from, either the o-ring or the damper itself. If you have already replaced the o-ring and it still leaks, the next step would be to replace the damper. A leaking damper is not a common issue, but does happen. Good luck!
@@MotorvateDIY thanks for the advice (: it tough finding repair videos on our VQ HR engines ! Anyways, keep up the good work! Ur like a cooler version of scotty Kilmer channel to me (x
Hey Sergio A, Yes, the HR engine was only made for 2 short years on the G/Z cars, so there is not a lot of repair videos out there. :( As for Scotty Kilmer, he is quite entertaining and has a HUGE following. He has done very well! Anyways, good luck with your damper replacement. If you let the car sit overnight, you shouldn't have any fuel pressure in the sytem, BUT still have a rag on it and wear eye protection.
Hey man you mentioned in one of your videos that you went to cayuga... are you close to mississauga? Would love for you to check on my G, check if it needs anything done and possibly even make videos with it. It's a 2008 G37S Coupe 6MT
Hey NjBoRi 973, I didn't suggest to replace anything. I gave you a place to start troubleshooting. An overheating engine can be caused by many things. I'm sure you don't want to buy and install parts that don't fix the problem.
Hey I need some help brother, so when I prime my fuel pump the pressure only goes to 48. When I start my car the pressure is at 51 while idling. Normal right? But then after driving it drops to 48 at idle. When shutting off the car the pressure automatically drops to 39-40ish. After 30 minutes of it being off it drops to 32. Crazy part is, I already installed a new fuel pump, so I’m lost on what could be causing this. Please respond, and thanks for the video brother!
I'm assuming you are working with some kind of G/Z VQ engine. If the engine is running well, don't worry about the numbers. It could be as simple as the pressure gauge/sensor getting hot.
Use a cheap ELM327 and a good OBD app (I like OBD Fusion) and look at your fuel trims under different engine operating conditions. (Idle, low load, wide open throttle, and lifting off the throttle) Note: Make sure to look at the total fuel trim. That is short term + long term. You might want to data log those values, then use a spreadsheet to quicky calculate the total fuel trim. Total fuel trim should be between -15% to +15% You can also use OBDFusion's diagnostic report to look at the ECU's cylinder mis-fire counters. It may help you narrow down a specific cylinder or bank. You might also want to remove the plugs and check their condition. One last point: There are A LOT of cheap parts that don't work as well as OEM. This makes troubleshooting difficult, as we eliminate the part as the problem, because we put in a new one. BUT sometimes the new part is the issue. One of my favourite places to get cheap and factory quality Nissan/Infiniti parts is the local scrap yard. I picked up a spare fuel pump for $35.
Hey Frank. Hope you are doing well. I am In Mississauga and need some help troubleshooting a weird issue on my Q50 3.7L. basically when I'm driving, the rpms drop to about 1500-2000rpms when I let off the gas and stay there, then when I give it gas it immediately picks up and goes back to where its supposed to be at. happens in manual and auto mode. It doesn't do this at high rpms or high speeds. Only below 4k rpms it happens. Please reach out to me if you can help me troubleshoot this. Alot of G / Z / Q50 are experiencing this problem with no solution. And I think it would be a great idea if we can find a solution for this problem. Thanks again
Basically like this but not as severe. The rpms don't drop that low but if I let off the from let's 3k rpms at 60km/h it will drop down to 1500rpms instantly : ru-vid.comPam9vkzVMKs?feature=share
I've cleaned the maf sensors and tb's and did all the resets. Changed both pcv Valves. Replaced my trans fluid 3x. Replaced transfer case fluid and both diff fluids as well. New spark plugs and air filters. Had a shop do a vacuum leak down test with a smoke machine and they found no leaks. I inspected both intake boots and can see no cracks or leaks. I've reset the ECU. Idk what to try next
I'm not sure I am going to be any help... I don't know what is normal for the 7AT. From you description, it sound like a normal automatic transmission working as it should. Why do you think it should hold the RPMs when you lift off the throttle?
@@MotorvateDIY the Rpms should come down slowly. Even in manual mode the Rpms shoot down. Same with normal auto mode. Sometimes it does this sometimes it doesn't. I was just wondering if you could take a look at some data values. Maybe a fuel problem. I know it's not the transmission cuz when the Rpms aren't shooting down, the transmission downshifts and upshifts perfectly
Hey Gyorgy Gabor, When I'm not making videos, I am doing research for future videos. For example I am 90% done making an easy to install (like 30 second) G37 engine oil and automatic transmission temperature gauge. Instructions and a DIY video should start soon. I have also been looking at the data on the CAN bus... very interesting! I will show how to make your own sniffing tools and how to use them. Also, this spring my G37 is getting tuned by Eugene with EcuTek... The good news is that I have a lot of content.... the bad news is that I have a lot of vodeo editing to do :(
If that happens, the fuel pressure regulator may not be holding the pressure. If the car doesn't crank longer than usual when starting, it is nothing to worry about.
On the G37/370z the fuel pressure regulator is on the fuel pump, which is located inside the gas tank. To get access to it, just remove the rear seats and you will see the thick wires that provide power to the fuel pump assembly.
Generally, the fuel pump/regulator is fairly reliable on the G37/370z. I would start by looking for an intake air leak, like a ripped rubber intake boot, cracked/split PCV hose or "black box" (aka air/oil separator) Then I would measure your fuel pressure, to rule it out.
Really? The video shows how to install the tool required to check the fuel pressure, then it shows what the fuel pressure should be, then it shows how to do a leak down test.
Hey Enkeis, I have 6 small boxes on my desk. :) The shoot hasn't been scheduled yet, as I need to determine the episode production schedule to minimize duplication.
I understand... However if you need to verify fuel pressure to troubleshoot a fuel issue on any Nissan or Infiniti made in the last 20 years, this is the only option.