How To Check If Your Motorcycle Battery Is Being Drained 

Thank you!

@narr narr. You are simply exceeding the available power that your stator can produce. Your bike does not have an alternator (like a car). It has something called a 'stator'. Your bike runs on this stator that generates power to run your lights, ignitor circuit (coils), and to recharge your battery. The problem you're having is that you have more electrical items drawing power than your stator can produce. Example: a stock motorcycle may have a 400 watt stator, with 350 watts of standard electrical items onboard. That leaves 50 watts to spare for add-on accessories. Here's the math: 400 watts generated - 350 watts standard accessories = 50 watts available. Ok, now, the owner adds a 200 watt amplifier for the radio. Oops. Now, there is 550 watts being drawn from the stator that only produces 400 watts. Guess where the other 150 watts is coming from? Yes. You guessed correctly. Your battery is being drained because your stator does not produce enough wattage for everything you are running. You only have two methods to repair this problem. 1. Have a custom stator made that will handle all your wattage/draws. 2. Reduce the amount of draw you have on the 'bike. Good luck.

Good point🤔🤔🤔🤔

Only pull ONE fuse at a time, and check the amp-test meter. If the fuse pulled now shows 0.00 draw, that's the circuit causing problems. Check the circuit for shorts, melted relays, pinched power wires, etc.

Rectifier regulator.

could be a bad stater. take it to a shop if you can and have them check all that out.

+Gabriel Brown Highly unlikely! Something else is going on!

That's what I thought...probably a bad ground somewhere. Thanks!

@gabriel brown. The LED circuit that causes such a draw will not be 'open' or else it won't draw power. What draws power is a closed circuit: one that is USING/DRAWING power. An open circuit cannot drain power since there is no continous path to ground. Simply put, I bet you have a relay on your LED lights. That relay should be wired to ignition, NOT the battery. Move the power supply for the switch-side of the relay from the battery to ignition. That means your circuit can only get power when the key is ON, or Running. That will prevent your battery from being drained by the relay.

@@kellymc239 any way this could be explained via video like how to hook led kit to ignition???

@Kelly MC @TheMotorcycleMD Quick question so PIN 30 should be wired to the ignition, and keep PIN 85 wired with the inline fuse to the battery right? I believe I made the same error, i wired pin 30 with a fuse straight to the battery and pin 85 with another inline fuse back to the battery

Hey Matthew, if you join the online MotorcycleMD community, Cody and the community of riders, can better serve you with your specific issue. I haven't looked back after joining. A wealth of knowledge from good people that are willing to share. edit: spelling

Raffy Padua Check out my other charging system videos and perform the charging system output check at the battery to see if it is charging

12.7v before cranking then 14.5v when machine starts. 13. something on idle then the volts increases when i open the throttle.

do i need to remove the negative overnight just to make sure the batt wouldnt drain

Raffy Padua That sounds like it is charging great!! When you shut the bike off measure the voltage, go back in an hour or two and recheck. If I were you I would buy a good battery tender with the pos/neg pigtails that attach to the battery and just plug it in when you can. If you can't, than yes I would disconnect the battery until you find the problem.

TheMotorcycleMD i wanna chat with you do u have facebook acct sir

A short circuit in the ground cable may caused this problem. The short caused the main fuse to blown. Repair the short and replace main fuse.

@@rvelandi1919 correct. Sounds like a main wire grounded out, and shorted the main relay or main fuse. He should fix the problem prior to installing a new relay/fuse.

Bad connection at the battery terminal. A 'click' sound is the main relay opening due to a lack of good connection. Check your connections, make sure to add a bit of dielectric grease on the terminals. Charge the battery with a known, good charger. A 'trickle' charger will NOT charge a totally dead battery. Trickle chargers only maintain a charge that's already good. Use a proper 2 amp charger that has a current-sense capability (so as to not over-charge the battery). Then, start the bike.

Start with the test shown in this video. Now, SLOWLY, and ONE BY ONE, pull a single fuse. Then, check the meter. If the 1.02 amp is still showing, put the fuse back. Pull the next fuse, and check the meter. Do this same routine until the meter reads. 0.00. When that happens, it means you just pulled the fuse from the circuit with the draw. Repair the short in that citcuit to stop the draw.

Great question but no! It’s totally normal. Your body is working as a ground! That is why it is best to install and remove your battery like so: Pos = + Neg = - When ever you “remove” the cables you are “subtracting” (-) from the battery. So remove negative first. When ever you attach cables or install new battery. You are “adding” (+) to the battery. So install the positive cable first. This method should minimize any sparks or archs 👍🏻👍🏻

Favaz Abdulla it won't matter!

same problem mate.. dont know what it is aswell

@@SupremeSkilz found out later i had a loose ground connected to the engine. Which caused my headlights to draw more amps than it should...then later damaged my stator. My bike was a 07 GSXR 600

Dear god he's just explaining shit out man, theres obviously a reason why he has nearly 150k subs and you have 150. You have a idiotic dickhead outlook.

I'm a fucking dumb ass. I need it simplified for my squirrel brain.

Kelly you suck

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