Harvey, a lot of guys would be hesitant to share such in depth information, especially since I have no doubt you have MANY hours of work put in to perfecting your method. From a true rookie, I sincerely thank you. I have a huztl 372 clone kit on the way. ALL of the information you have shared, not just in this video, have saved me a ton of frustration. Again, thank you, sir.
Very informative . Harvey I used to smoke and was trying to quit for years. But would bumm one when I would get around other smokers. And and i would get migraines. It took almost a year to realize that the cigarette was the of the migraines. But when I put 2 and 2 together. I have not smoked since and no more migraines. 💝😊🍵🍵
Thanks Harvey! Awesome info! Hot days and not enough water will give you headaches. But you know that, Hope you feel better. I just got a degree wheel and am going to port a Pro Mac 700.
It's looking at to many numbers Ironhorse that you have got a 5 day headache so take care of off yourself and family until your next video stay safe regards Frank and Nanette Hopper from Australia cheers mate
Great video Ironhorse thank you! I will probably watch it several times to make sure i understand everything. Appreciate you sharing all this knowledge with us. You're a Legend.
Ironhorse, God Bless and Protect you!!! Bless you for sharing your wisdom with us. Ironhorse, this educational video was Pure Gold for me. What an education you gave me. Bless your kind soul!!!
Good info buddy.i been getting headaches by afternoon logging in 93 degrees and muggy as a bitch. Not to mention bugs eating me alive.gotta love it. Lol.
The primary reason for porting is because when you build a no base gasket build, you change the port timing for most well designed cylinder and you must change the timing to make up for the fact you have lowered the cylinder .020 or so. Sure, you get a little more compression with a no base gasket build, but you also change other things. This is why I always use a base gasket on my saws. All base gaskets are not the same, either. They can vary from .015 to .040 inches thick. I use the steel base gaskets which are .015 inches thick plus a light coating of TB 1184 on the cylinder and case give me about .020 for the base gasket. So, if I start out with an .020 squish I end up with a squish of .040, pretty much along factory specs.
Hey Ironhorse! Any word on mac 10-10 cylinders? I'm looking to get one re bored. Always looking forward to seeing your new videos. Keep up the good hard work!
I made an arbor for my new timing wheel, today. I wanted to make it out of aluminum round stock but could not find my, locally. I ended up making it from a 1.125 inch wooden dowel. I drilled and tapped one end 8x1.0 and the other 1/4-20. I am not going to be using it every day, multiple times a day. Wood should work fine for me. I mage it about six inches long. I will shorten it depending upon the s distance I need.
Hey Harv I have a idea for a video that I think would be great for the viewers. What if we setup a go fund me account or something similar for a saw that we could watch you build. And you could send it to Buckin. If your interested I have a 74cc Dayton with the reed valves that I would donate and cash. I would really love to see this.
HEY HARVEY, I HAD TO BOTTOM THE PISTON SO MANY TIMES WHILE I GOT AHEAD OF MYSELF AND TOTALLY BLEW THE EXHAST PORT THAT I WAS SCRATCHING THE HELL OUT OF IT, SO I PUT A PIECE OF GORILLA TAPE OVER THE END OF MY HEX WRENCH, TRIMMED THE EDGES, AND NO MORE SCRATCHES. IT WAS A GOOD THING I BOUGHT THE CHEAP &26.95 BARREL /PISTON KIT, GOING ON PERSONAL EXPERIENCE , I FIGURED I'D BLOW THE FIRST ONE...NEXT ONE IS IN THE MAIL, ALONG WITH DOUBLE-CUT CARBIDE BITS FOR THE DREMMEL...I BLEW THROUGH ONE OF THE LOWER XNSFER PORTS WITH A CHEAP BIT I HAD TO FORCE INTO THE CUT-WHOOPS! SENT TINMAN A LITTLE INFO HE'LL SHARE WITH YOU...MAY BE INTERESTING.
Motion pro wheel. eBay it! Use a 13mm or half inch socket with a small bolt and nut and mount it on your degree wheel! Fold a piece of paper towel and put it over your nut and push the 6 point socket on! It should be quite a tight fit!
At my age, I always have to check everything three times. I made some bread the other day and left out one of the key ingredients. Needless to say, it did not turn out to good. 😀
There is an optimum clearance around the edge of the piston and the head that forces the induction charge away from the cylinder wall and into a space in the head, which is normally a bowl or bell shape. A lot of two stroke tuning revolves around the shape of that space and the piston crown. That clearance around the edge is called a squish band, and it is ideally around 20-30 thou clearance between the piston and head right at TDC - it makes power by forcing the already burning charge into an area central to the piston promoting a faster rate of burn in the time before the piston begins to move down the bore. It forces the pressure in the chamber to momentarily spike and serves to cushion the piston right before/at TDC, avoid detonation or ragged burning and maximise pressure on the piston crown - which is the only actual work done in there to push the piston down and extract the most physical power from the process. The squish band and clearance is critical to getting all of the pressure applied at exactly the right moment to the piston - get it wrong and an engine goes from a willing smooth running powerhouse to a dog of a thing - or at least an engine that just doesn't make power properly... Sorry to get long winded, it's a really important aspect with two stroke tuning and we used to spend a lot of effort back in the day getting it just right by carefully machining or shimming the barrel, searching through the wrecked bikes for a different shaped head, endless hours of sanding piston crowns and head bowls to get that squish just perfect. The result was not huge power changes, but smooth tractable power when you are optimising the tuning. A lot of time was used getting the porting and pipe just right too, then endless rejetting until the engine would just sing. Something I don't think any young rider has to think of today but was normal back in the day. Just the same with all the mods we used to do to the performance model engines we used to build up for racing in the air and in boats. I have an engine in my shed that took me weeks to get right, but once I had it sorted it idles all day and then gets onto the pipe without stuttering and revs out past 16,000 rpm at will. Getting that squish clearance perfect on that 10cc methanol engine took days of shimming and made it go from a light switch to a dream engine...
