I've said it before and I'll say it again you can go anywhere to get advice on hot rodding car/pickup engines but you are one of the VERY few that will give real world advice on hot rodding (porting) saws with no strings attached. Thank you Tinman for being so instructional and detailed im sure there are MANY people that have been waiting for you to come along for a long time
I couldn’t agree more. I just ported my first saw and I did it ENTIRELY from what I learned on this channel alone. I can’t speak highly enough of the timnan even though those god damn tinners take up every elevation!
Time for class today boys and girls, learn your numbers with the Tinman 👍. Thanks for taking the time to teach us how to degree a saw, with you and Iron horse we're set up for success!👍👍💪💪😁👊
Man, you're a wonderful teacher. i have a few chainsaws for my hobby collection: HomeLite Super XL Auto, Echo CS400, Echo 355T, Makita DCS6421 with bog bore , Stihl 009L, Stihl MS250, Stihl 026, and Husqvarna 545 MkII and a Husqvarna 562XP. I am going to watch all of your educational series over the next month or two and get the knowledge and confidence to do some mild porting on a few of them. I have really nice pipes for most of them already. I really like your demeanor. I can tell you are a good dude who genuinely wants to help others understand. Thanks for being generous with your knowledge.
Great video brother, thanks for taking the time to learn us. I haven't tried porting anything yet, but I want to. Videos like these are a huge help, and your wisdom about trying and failing - to learn - is much appreciated. God Bless!
Thanks for showing this. Shows me exactly what I wanted to see before porting. I understand rpm vs bottom end now. I gather reliability is the general rule of thought. Thank
Good video. I have always wondered about porting. The timing wheel and your explanation is very good. About 2005 I pondered sending my engine to pro circuit but settled for milling the head and running rase gas
Good info there TM, I machined all my tools for working on saws, made a flywheel puller and made an adaptor that screws onto the flywheel side and takes a CD that I glued a degree wheel to (a little small but it works), I bought a case splitter and that alone makes all the difference.
I have made my reeds out of feeler gauges heaps of different thickness available also on 2 stroke motor bikes finding the wright combination for different situations is a hoot good show thanks for info I will sleep alot better tonight
Tinman, I will never know when or how soon it might be before I ever port a saw, but my available saws range from Stihl 026 x2, 044, 051, 075 x2, MS660 and an Echo CS3000 Top Handle, and a couple Mac's a 200 and a 2-10 I think it is. Great advice, I like how you explain looking for the light as the piston goes into position in and out of the ports. IronHorse was the first demo I saw and he also showed that light trick.
I can understand enough of the porting work to know, this stuff takes time, patience, and repetition to get right. I used a echo 400 for a long time before I muffler modded it but only after making it a back up to a 620p. The muffler mod and tuning with just a tach made it much better so I can see the addiction with mods. I would not want to spend weeks porting it. I will leave it to you pros that have spent the time to know what the frig they're doing. I like what your channel is about. Thanks
Excellent video T. You missed your calling you could have been a elementary school teacher. Teaching all of us young want to be porters. I have bought all the tools, now just have to pick a saw. There is 63 to choose from but it will not be a favourite one first. Thanks
99* no blow down change. just a port and widen the intake a bit if it’s in the 150* range then she will be a monster that’s what I would do keep up the teaching your good at it tinman
Finom1 reasoning for my numbers is 99* keeps compression up with short blow down and big cc saws will pull it very well. squish set at 23-25 thou because of 52mm piston keeping duration shorter on intake keeps pressure up for reeds need+\- for reeds to function correctly
So do you push the piston down to BDC then install the timing wheel on the crank and place the marker at 180 degrees? Wouldn’t timing wheel to crank shaft position make a difference on the number when I’m trying to zero the wheel? Thanks for the class session!
I'm not sure You will read this, but I have an old husky that runs well, but the old nylon air filter lets a little fine dust in. is there any way to improve this? I've watched enough of your stuff that I trust what you have to say. Thank-you, Andrew.
so if im understanding correctly you set your piston and degree wheel to BDC then use the piston stop in both directions to confirm and make your adjustments to the wire until your landing at the same number both ways to confirm BDC. I skipped the piston stop and every time i would bring it down to bdc i would be out a couple degrees each time assumed it was because i was using a peice of solder but i did not confirm my degree wheel was set correctly with a piston stop after setting it up initially. cool. thanks man. I will re time the saw tonight and see if i can pull some consistant numbers.
Good info sir. You have one of my want saws there, it will be interesting to see how this one turns out. I get to blame you again, I found a little xl 12 that I haven't told the wife about yet. I want to ask you about the after market super xl12 cylinders, do you know if they are worth getting? It would be a big bore kit for my xl12. Cheers
Been watching your vids to get a handle on this... One thing I missed, does it matter if the wheel is on flywheel side vs. clutch side... In my head I am thinking that everything will be reversed number wise... But I do not know for sure.... Thanks for what you do.
You and Ironhorse did a timing video on the same day. Great video! It was easy to figure out how you explained it and showed it! Could you provide me with your email? I have a couple questions about a MS 460 and porting suggestions. Thanks again for your great video!.
Im currently rebuilding 046 magnum for a family member I wanted too port it but think I will choose something different for my first saw too port thanks for all the information I have a husky 435 xtorq I plan on porting after watching your porting series
Tin man!! Would you be interested in selling this saw? Or at least the chain brake assembly? Id kill to have it! The poulans didnt come with chain brakes here in the USA they were options only. I need a 5200 for my collection and that chain brake would be amazing on my 4200 restoration!
Really appreciate what you’re doing! Mike Acker’s site??? Can you share the name spelling or whatever so I can check that out too??? I came over from Harvey...iron horse...who was just really saying that we all needed to see all your stuff...he’s definitely right about that!!! Awesome stuff from a fellow saw junkie! 😂😂😂. If we have to have an addiction then chainsaw’s are a dang good one!!! That’s what I’m saying!!!👍😁
Tinman's saws I found it... I was hoping that there was a section or site where the actual engine timing numbers of different saw models were listed...and possibly discussed to help younger guys use as a base reference...I guess it’s still just reference the old note book for whatever models we’ve done ourselves...???
