You can clean the hinges and the tracks and then oil them and most will work perfectly. You don't have to replace them as a first response. That's not good advice.
If there is a gap at the hinge side when the window closes, then the hinges are broken. No amount of cleaning and oil is going to fix that. If there's no gap then they are not broken. If something isn't broken there's no need to fix it 🙄
Thank you for this video. One question…..for now, many probably to come. 😂 The interlocking blocks. My window has none. Never has. Is there a way to fit them now?
Brilliant video and explanation. Really educated me in maintaining my windows. Question on part that was spoken about but not really explained on resolving. The centre blocks. I checked one of my windows and there is a bow in the middle letting in draft. Both blocks are there but the gap is also there. What needs to be done to rectify this. Many thanks.
You need to move one of them so they end up closer together. At the minute they are not touching. They should touch together and pull the window in at the middle. It's hard to get small adjustments, as you will get the width of a screw hole of movement
Very useful and very well presented. I'm no good at DIY but at least I know what needs doing. However, my windows are around 25 years old. Should I repair or replace?
We just purchased new windows that are a Casement/Picture/Casement shape. They are quite tall...62 inches. We noticed that the sash is not connecting tightly to the frame and cold air is coming through the gap. I looked at our interlocking blocks and noticed that we only have one pair of blocks on this rather tall wood window. I then looked at my vinyl casements and noticed that they came with four pairs (total of 8) of interlocking blocks. My thought is that our issue may be not having enough interlocking blocks. How many pairs of interlocking blocks should a 62 inch tall wood casement have in your opinion? Thanks for the great video.
Hi paddy we have just had fitted some tilt and turn windows but we are finding water on the sill on each corner of the hinge . Window company dont have a clue / never seen this problem before . They have tightened the windows and tried to blame it on condensation as this is a new room . My answer was how come it's not on any sealed window frames. Could you please give me you thoughts .
Hi Paddy, I've just replaced the hinges on my bathroom bottom-opening window (typical narrow long rectangle type at the top of the overall window). Your video on replacing the hinges was of great help. The sash now closes opens and closes much easier and the large gap at the sides is mostly gone. However, where there was a 10-15mm gap there's now a ~3mm gap on both sides in the lower part where it meets the corner - any idea why there's still a gap and how to fix it? If I use the handle to pull the window toward me there is a little play which then closes the gap.
Great video Paddy, thanks. I have a window where you can see daylight between the sash and the frame (similar to the dropped sash in your video at 6.24) but the gap is at the side.....am I right in thinking the hinges have failed and need replacing to rectify this problem?
No they are for windows only. The idea of the interlocking blocks is to pull the window in at the mid section of the window. As there is no hinge in the middle. There is usually 3 hinges on a door. The middle hinge should pull it in at the middle. You'll sometimes see bolts that look like interlocking blocks on doors, but these are anti-jemmy devices for security
Your video was very helpful. I have extreme drafts coming from the apron of my windows. should there be a gap? I was thinking that the apron was used to hide bad workmanship! What size of gap should be under t he e sill?
Not necessarily. The glass may just need re-aligning... (Moving the glass inside the frame will actually change the position of the frame...!). First thing to do is remove the plastic trim strips from around the frame (they hold the glass in place). Note: A wallpaper/paint scraper is ideal to use as a wedge in the gap where the trim meets the outer frame to open the gap. A large screwdriver can then be used to prise the strips out. Start with a long strip first (makes it easier). You will then see that the glass has plastic spacers at points along the edges. Experiment with moving these as required to close the relevant frame gap.
No, no, no, silicone is a poor insulator. Only expanding foam, not only it insulates better it fills the gaps and is also a better noise insulator and lasts longer. If you go to continental Europe where there are colder winters you will never ever see silicone used as a filler for gaps between walls and windows/door frames. Terrible advice. I find windows in homes of UK and Ireland of really poor quality, of course, there are some exceptions but this is a rule. And silicone everywhere as an insulator... At least 20 years behind Germany or Poland.
So tell me how is Paddy to put expanding foam on a hair line crack of finished plaster. These windows have been installed for years. Its not a new install so expanding foam is not a option here? What would you do here?
