Azomite is great because it is ~60% Silica. Silica will replace Carbon in cell structure and free up Carbon for sugar/terpene production. Freeing up that Carbon also means more biomass as you will have more total building blocks for growth. Big yields and high quality yields. If you combine Pumice, Basalt and Azomite you have some of the best mineralization you can get. It's why Volcanic valleys tend to contain farms historically.
New to roses but ironically everything that was discussed about amending and introducing micro organisms, etc. is a practice I am all too familiar with after keeping a reef aquarium for about a decade. Thank you so much for this very informative video. I do appreciate it.
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Jay, I need you to understand this information is readily available. If you want a detailed video, Perfect Gardens by Mark. They actually call the company and explain what each ingredient does. What she is explaining is how the products have worked for her through: Trial and Error. This would indicate that she is still learning the products……
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My favorite fertilizer is the Dr. Earth Life fertilizer. They ferment the fertilizer so it is more fast acting than traditional organic fertilizer. I use it for pretty much everything except my acid loving plants.
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Hi! I have been searching for the best fertilizer to give my deciduous ornamental trees. I have a young Japanese Magnolia and a young Chaste. And I live in Mississippi. Would i give them the same fert as the fruit tree fert for deciduous trees that you talk about at the end of this video or something else? What ratios would i look for? Thank you! I learned a lot from your video
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I tried to top dress using the langbeinite last summer. It killed everything because it dropped my Ph so sharply. That has lest than 1/4 cup or 5 or 6 cubic feet. I would not recommend using it without a soil test. If you need to use it, use it as a soil amendment and do not top dress. I'd also avoid blood meal because there are safer sources of nitrogen and in my experience 9/10 will burn your plants. Blood meal may also have traces of heavy metals and other chemicals that *will* be absorbed by your plants. Thank you.
Rock Phosphate takes 8 months to 14 months to break down (very slow release - you can also add Rock Phosphate to a hot compost to break it down quicker), Seabird Guano is a combo of fast and slow release. Here is my NPK combo for planting: I use Bat Guano + Fish Meal + Crab meal + Neam Seed Meal for N - Seabird Guano + Fish Bone Meal + Rock Phosphate for P, and Basalt + Kelp Meal + Alfalfa Meal + Azomite (optional GreenSand - takes 12 - 14 months to break down). For flowering and veg period Fish Meal 1 table spoon + Bat Guano 1/2 tea spoon + Seabird Guano 2 tea spoon + Fish Bone Meal 2 table spoon + Kelp Meal 1 tea spoon + Alfalfa Meal 1 table spoon + mixed with Worm casting 1/4 cup - per plant. You want to have fast, medium and slow release for the best results. Cheaper method will get the job done also: You can also use Bio Live + Worm casting during planting, then use Bio Fish + Seabird Guano during flower (or Fish Bone Meal) + Langbeinite for veg and flower.
16-16-16 is a pretty powerful all-purpose (you have to be careful because it will burn if used excessively) so we would recommend only using it on lawns/established shrubs & trees starting in March every 6-8 weeks until November
Langbeinite doesn't effect the PH (like Dolomite Lime for PH up and Garden Gypsum for PH down). Also you want to be careful when using Langbeinite. Langbeinite is water soluble and available right away.
Alfalfa meal is used for the natural hormones to help your plant grow. The hormone is call tricontanol. Tricontanol helps with upping chlorophyll levels and helps with higher photosynthesis. This is WHY you use alfalfa meal. Using this throughout the plant life is optimal. Gobberellic Acid is found in seaweed/kelp products. It helps with increasing fruit size and helping a seed germinate. Placing your seed in gibberic acid will increase the likelihood of seed germination. Following the directions on the back of the box is a horrific idea by the way. Using a maximum of 75% of the recommended dosage is a better plan of action. It takes 12-16 days for dry amendments to begin to break down in the soil to be biologically active for the plants. Before placing ANY plant in amended soil: mix the soil, add the dry amendments and some form of root inoculation and water. Let it sit for 2 weeks BEFORE placing your plant. This does two things: if you are buying soil, it gives you time to make sure there are no fungus gnats or bugs in the soil. It also allows the soil microorganisms to build up and make a much more hospitable environment.
@@DavidfromMichigan if the manure is properly composted down it won’t burn and can be the full feed the snack imo would be the like s of top dressing mulch or molasses.
