How to choose the right insulation for your Expedition truck habitat or camper. DIY 

Danke für das video

Thanks, wonderful work and information.

Excellent presentation ! I am enjoying your build very much !! 👍👍👍

Great Video learned allot from this video.

So much good information on your channel! This is very useful for us as we are working on our own build (well, it is actually an ambulance conversion), and to make our own decision of what would work best for us. We are looking at XPS mostly, and after seen your video, I think we will add a thin layer to cover all the aluminium beams and deal with thermal bridges that way. Thanks!

Great video thanks!!!!

I like your hat and ear muffs, good look

the akfix products have been working well for me hope you have good luck too. Good job on the video. ill be doing 3inch of insulation as well

Good video, but I will point out a couple of things. There are two other insulation materials that should be considered. One is extruded polystyrene insulation (XPS). It is similar to what you used, however it is only rated to 165 degrees F for continuous heat exposure. That is slightly less than the skin temperatures in your charts. It is slightly cheaper than what you used. Now here is where it gets interesting. The R value of this insulation is less than that of the insulation you used and the R value is greater than that of the insulation you used-- but not at the same time. As the temperature goes down, the R value of the polyisocyanurate insulation you used goes down while the R value of XPS insulation goes up. As temperatures rise, it goes the other way. I suppose you could put a layer of polyisocyanurate insulation up against the outer skin as you did, and then use XPS for the next layer. Another type of insulation is mineral wool insulation. It is similar to fiberglass except it costs slightly more, has better heat tolerance, and doesn't settle in the wall cavity like fiberglass does. It is a little less expensive than XPS, doesn't make you itch, and has excellent sound deadening properties. It's biggest drawback is it's weight. That is not something you covered in your video. Polyisocyanurate insulation and XPS insulation are very lightweight. Fiberglass is a little heavier, and much heavier if it gets wet. Once it gets wet, it is no longer any good. Mineral wool insulation is the heaviest. It still retains a good bit of insulating properties if it gets wet, but it can be dried out and it is as good as it was new. If you have ever taken a cover off of the air handler to a heat pump and saw a dark gray insulation inside that you thought was fiberglass, you have actually seen mineral wool insulation. Bottom line I think is that layering with polyisocyanurate and XPS is probably the best insulation system for this application.

The polystyrene foam also degrads PVC cables causing the to break down possibly causing electrical faults ,short circuits, fires ,electrocution

Another awesome vid! I was wondering how you were going to deal with the cold bridges due to the steel frame. Looking forward to the next steps. 😊

good job i am live at sherbrooke québec and where do you by SOPRA-ISO V PLUS? My fist look is very good for my project. thank you

Great Build and I learned a lot from your videos - The frames are made of steel square tubes as per previous videos, will heat transfer between them negligible say sunshine outside will it have temperature changes like heating radiator tube like effect? I watched a video from overland outlander who toured Europe with their Fuso homebuilt 4x4 with Aluminum sheet exteriors with interior plywood cladding and they complained with fast heat transfer during temperature changes. any thoughts?

Are you going to add another 2" thick layer of foam insulation on the inside? If not, there will be thermal bridging, heat or cold can transfer to the interior of the insulated envelope via the square steel tubing the structure is built from. This will cause condensation to form on the steel, rust, and black mold which is not healthy, as well as lower R-values.

Can you comment about spray foam insulation vs panels. I was thinking of having the cavities between framing members spray foamed as that creates a completely waterproof seal, and then adding a layer of PIR or XPS on the interior to address thermal bridging.

Great explanation. Will you do a cost analysis of this set up with the aluminum siding? I really like the system similar to this that Globe Trekker has with their panels, but costly. Trying to balance my diy pseudo skill set with time / ability to build with budget.

I am from California and I want to know if you guys send the materials to California

hmm... why using expandable foam to attach the panels? Why not just use spray glue which you apply to all the surfaces and press fit to the place, adhesion would be enough to hold it there without additional support.

great truck , building a trashcan on the back makes it slow

Where you guys are located?

Where's the wiring harnesses?

I like your approach, but compairing PIR to EPS isn’t quite fair, and the water test is wrong. EPS does not absorb water, water may be trapped between the beads, and the EPS you chose had a lower load capacity than the PIR. What you should have compaired the PIR to is XPS, which is a closed cell foam like the PIR. PIR does have a slightly better R-value at temperatures above 15C, but unlike other insulation products this deteriorates the lower the temperature, and gets worse than EPS/XPS. XPS has far better load capacity than PIR and I suspect better vibration resistance.