that Farecla mitt was the first clay product i ever bought donkies ago and thought it was very good. Didnt fill up to quickly and could be cleaned out (to a limit i know), had decent decon grunt and yer the speed is a pro. Used it many a time on neglected friends cars with the shampoo as a lube and always pleased 👌
I think clay is waaaay more eco than a "clay mit" at least you can see how dirty a clay bar is, than a mit. You can use the clay much longer than a mit, plus you can see the levels of contamination. I think I'll keep to the clay. Reinventing the wheel sometimes isn’t needed.
Clay mitt lasts probably 35-50 vehicles if it’s minor to medium contamination a clay bar needs chucking after a single car so don’t see how it more eco
Hi John, I've used the clay mit on 8 different cars,the last car was my volvo and I haven't seen any marks/scratches. I use Turtle Wax pure wash as a lubrication with mine. I'm more than happy with the product.Ive cleaned the mit every time after use and put the plastic sheet back on the clay section once used. I have now got a new one, so I will use the old mit on my wheel barrels. 😊👍
I normally use a clay towel over a higher ph foam from my cannon, along with constantly cleaning the rubber surface in a wash bucket after each panel. I find that using a foamy high ph soap perhaps deep cleans the paint a little better by stripping off any old protection that may be left after washing. Using foam seems to provide a lot of lubrication during the claying process, but with the extra step of rinsing afterwards. Good video Jon. I love the speed of the clay towels, but only use them before polishing as you mentioned.
As far as clay mitts go the G3 is the best one I have found so far. It is great for a more rapid decontamination job, when time is more limited. I tend to start with this to get the bulk of it off and then finish with Bilt Hamber soft clay bar for a belt and braces job.
Try a clay towel that is perforated. The Rag Company Ultra clay towel and DIY Details clay towel. The openings within the clay surface allow the contamination a place to go reducing the marring you've correctly talked about. Much better than the solid rubberized clay mitt you used in the video.
That M4 CS paintwork must be like glass by now the amount of pampering it gets😂 Be good to have an M4CS meet up with other owners also if anyone’s interested 🤔
I think clay mitts are the tits. Smash a layer of GT Zero Decon on the car and give it a damn good feel up with the mitt. Can't say that I've noticed any clay marring to be honest, but the layer of clay is so thin that a quick rinse after every 1/4 or 1/2 of a panel keeps the clay fresh as a daisy. Used to use BH clay bar, but I noticed no matter what technique or lubricant I used, the marring was 100x worse than using a mitt.
I use the soft Bilt Hamber clay bar. Its a value for money. In the winter i am starting to thinkg for a clay mitt....What grade do you think that is Farecla Clay Mitt? Fine, Medium? Thnak you for the video
Jon, you should really try the Ultra Clay Towel/Mitt from The Rag Company. It has a perforated surface that is very effective, cuts down on marring and is very easy to clean. I find it is also very helpful to spray the panel down with rinseless (ONR, P&S Absolute or N914) before hitting it with the clay.
its best part of 40 quid in the UK mate. love the rag company and appreciate import costs create problems but I just dont think you can sell clay cloths for that price here.
@@ForensicDetailing yeah they cost about 33 quid here ($40 USD). But on the plus side they will last for well over 50 cars, so the cost per use is pretty low.
I have had 3 of those clay mitts and they are awesome. You defo need a clay bar for two reasons. 1. if you run the clay mitt over the joint of two panels, it can leave behind some clay, and a clay bar gets it of much easier. 2. Clay bars are great for smaller areas. I do my car twice a year with the Mitt, and they will last 2 or 3 years easily (I do friends cars as well so they don't last that long for me). The biggest advantage of the clay mitt is that people who don't want to spend 1 or 2 days claying a car, will clay the car with a mitt because you can do it in around 60 mins or less. The clay mitt in my experience does not get as much contaminate off as a clay bar, so clay mitt the car, then go round with s clay bar and redo the small bits the mitt could not deal with.
@@IRTEHLEETOKNPBB I first wash the car and rinse it off. Then I make a wash bucket using a good shampoo and 'wash' the car again with the mitt, it's not like a clay bar where to do a 6 inch section at a time, you wash the car like you would with a normal mitt, keeping it very wet with the shampoo wash. Then you have to was the car again. You might get some 'clay' on the edges of panels, you can get this off with a clay bar.
When I was a valeter at main dealer I used this it was very durable I also used the auto smart towel to. These so much quicker. Thing is when u work for a company they not going to supply clay that can really only be used once and are easy to drop because of the cost and I faced this all the time when working as a professional valeter. On my own car I always use clay bar but clay mitt, cloth does have it place and in my opinion very good to have and I used a lot. The fraecla one is very good they good company there compounds are very good to and have used alot
I've seen a number of videos on YT talking about claying without the need for a polish afterwards. They say their synthetic clay is less abrasive and so does not mar the paint. John, what are your thoughts?
@@ForensicDetailing thank you for getting back. What if i use BH korrisol to get off all the iron/dirt, wash it off, and then use BH korrisol again as a lubricant with a clay bar/mitt? Or lubricating with the likes of ONR will be a better idea?
Thank you for the video. I was searching clay towels/mitts. But after seeing your car I love the paint color. Can you tell me the year and model of the car and the name of the paint color? Would you happen to have the paint code? Thank you for your help.
I just threw out my farecla mitt after several years of service, ordered another one same day. It just saves so much time and gives you a glass smooth finish. Brilliant product
I use soapy water/car shampoo, really important to keep it lubricated....also add your iron fall out remover too as this helps remove contaminants and lubricate for the glide. Great results 👌🏼
Another excellent video Jon - can't get enough of your stuff man. So....your advice please. I am about to become an FDC wannabe having just bought another car. The car is immaculate which I would like to maintain. MB CLS 350 AMG - White 2015 model. Do I clay bar or clay mitt and if I do invest in machine polish (pretty sure I will) which produce would you recommend for polishing it and how often. No history in terms of the clear coat or if it has been detailed in the past so worried about damaging the paint. Cheers, Paul
Thanks for this one , I want to try a mit as clay bar a t5 van is a nightmare. When I polish my van I have to break it down to 2 days or by 2nd half I find I loose concentration and energy . A clay cloth will make it so much easier . Just messing about on my own vehicles, quite happy but nice to pick up from the experts any information. Cheers pal
I loved the 3m clay pad but does your m4 really need done , you can actually hear the roughness so that doesn’t say much for the ceramics we pile onto our cars which is supposed to protect , think I’ll go back to wax it’s cheaper
i use a zvizzer clay disk on a cordless sander (3mm throw). gets you around alot faster. i use a clay mitt for the small ereas or regular clay bar if it's really nasty
What would be good is the clay bar section being velcro so you can just buy the clay bar section and keeping cost down so you're not having to buy the entire mit all the time
Another good video Jon, well done. I'm using Farecla G3 Clay mitt with a soapy water 1:50 dillution ratio :) I always use it after iron fallout remover. But from my pov, polishing is not mandatory after applying clay mitt. It's always good to use it to decontaminate the surface before foaming/washing the car. If I have enough time, I prefer to polish the surface but it's not possible most of the times.
I use them without my hand on top or holding at the side as I tend to with washmitts. G3 Clay mitt could benefit from maybe a tight fit elastic strap on the back side, differing hand sizes would be the trouble mind. I also tend to pre-spray the surface down with ONR or similar before going in with the clay cloth
Been looking at this clay mitt. Have a bigger surface area to use so should minimise time claying the car plus less risk of dropping it on the floor like a normal little piece of clay I'd use
I'm wondering if these perforated clay towels like DIY detail and P&S might be more gentle on the paint. If you don't plan to polish should you avoid a clay towel?
they are not more gentle no. the coareness of the abrasive clay and the pressure you put down is the importance. A performated one will have half the clay of a non performated one. But the holes do allow liquid through.
Have you used the clay towel from Ali that is perforated and costs about 15? It resembles the original alternatives, from Carpro etc. Have you used soft99 smooth egg ? It`s very soft and the seller told me is perfectly safe for coatings and doesn`t scratch
only you can answer this. why do we clay? to remove contamination. therefore if contamination is only on the lower sections then fine. So really question is, are you 100% sure theres no contamination on upper panels at all?
Thanks that makes logical sense I guess 😀, I've been enjoying watching and learning from your videos. What's your take on clay baring plastics? Most of the lower panels on my car are 80% plastic and quite rough to touch?
after wash.. spray the spot with autosmart tardis. work with microfiber till its all gone. rinse whole car if you treat all panels (its water soluable)
Thanks John, I've got one of those, prefer using it to a clay bar, find it easy as long as you use plenty of lubrication, as you said its minus point is small areas like at the front of the car, where I think a bar is better. I've had it 3 years probably done 12 cars and its still in good condition.
i am wondering, once you have clayed, polished, and ceramic or graphene coated the car, when should you clay again and does it degrade the coating by claying ?
next time you want to polish it, wash it dry it, feel the paintwork, look for chunks of roughness behind the front wheels and rear tailgate... after about a year of driving its likely to need claying. If you clay a coating yes your abrading on it so it will degrade it a bit.
I'm getting one for Christmas, have always previously used clay but having been out of the detailing game for a while, I'm now looking for quicker easier methods for every stage, hopefully this mitt will be it. I think I will still clay bar the roof and bonnet as have some heavier contamination there and conscious of filling the mitt with contaminants from the start.
Nice one Jon, great timing, I just brought a new to me 3yr old ST, it's got no protection and needs pampering. I have the G3 mitt in the garage and haven't used it yet, you've inspired me to try it out. Regarding the polish, would a one step, like the Megs ultimate be OK or could I get away with a koch chemi ultra fine on the same coloured pad? Thanks for cracking vids throughout 22.
Would like to see a comparison between the mit and a carbon collective exfoli-block. I think the carbon collective block is probably the sweet spot between clay and the mitt.
Combination of both is what I find best Jon. Also with regards to clay mitts, give the clay cloth company a look, it's a step up from the Farecla mitt imo. Far better quality with superior clay & more of it on the face of the mitt. The mitt itself is also nicer, better stitching/material.
I was pretty disappointed with this clay mitt. it kept leaving marks where I had to use a clay bar to remove them and it took some elbow grease to remove them. not great on a white car
also I think there is clay only on 1 side so you can use the other side to smear rinseless wash solution over the panel before you clay it, at least thats what I do
Hi John just revisiting this video as im about to machine polish my black ford fester, im wondering whats the waterless wash you use, ive read optimum no rinse wash n shine is a good clay lube but it says it leaves polymers behind and like you i want nothing on the paint afterwards. Love the channel keep up the great content
Jon, what containers do you have on the shelf there with the taps on? Looks like they could make storing chemical much neater rather than having big bulky bottles everywhere
@@donporter8432 optimum no rinse, just a waterless wash , get a litre spray bottle add 50 ml of ONR ( I also add 50 ml of turtle was hybrid solutions wash & wax ) tap water will do no need for distilled water that's not needed , ive found out after using gallons of distilled water- just spray that onto the panal & the clay will, I use a Martin Cox clay mitt or bilt hamber fine clay is great but the mitt you can't drol it covers a bigger area and will clay a car twice as fast ( just clean the outta glass first as them mitts stick & might slightly Mar paint) tge mitts are great tgey can be reused over n over just rinse n carry on, after doing this you'll feel the paint is smooth as can be, it pulls all dirt n grime from tge paint- you'll be pleased you did 👌
Jon, great video. Can you use snow foam as a lubricant for claying after the car is washed? Do you need to dry the car prior to claying? I've also seen Jim White keeping his clay, usually 3 patties, in hot water to keep them plyable. Thoughts?
I don’t dry, most of the time I just Chuck a fresh microfiber in the shampoo bucket and use that to wipe over the surface get it soapy then clay over. Mostly because if I’m decontaminating I want to put on a lsp or polish so I’m not risking putting anything on with a clay lube. I also wouldn’t use snow foam as it has no lubricating properties it’s meant to be used as a precleaner not a contact wash. Imo you can totally keep clay a couple toke I usually cut it up into 3/4 chunks then Chuck them out after use or use them for claying wheels
I think you could wash and reform (when its not too hot) and clay mitt over with all the soap. that will work great just dont want the soap to dry in the summer. but in winter I think wash dry get car inside and then nice waterless wash lube works really well too. dont think its matters as long as you clay properly... warning the clay its good idea. If I leave the ball in front of the little heater it will softer... BH clay is mega solid.
I have that mitt and really love it. A bit of soapy water in a bucket and you're off. Whole car done in no time. I agree there are still uses for traditional clay - either doing fiddly bits (which on our everyday cars are really not an issue) or for windscreens (where there is all sorts of rubbish that I'd rather keep out of the mitt - I have a big ball of clay just for the screen).
Hi John, just want to say thanks. I found my holy grail of daily driver contactless cleaning with 3 week old winter grime on it. BH AF at 6% PIR on a dry car.(not BH CL) Single layer of foam so it doesn't drop off. Let it dwell for 10 minutes (cold day) Use a 15 degree nozzle close up with my Karcher K2. Stand back and admire
Thanks John, I used one of these on my previous car so this has reignited my interest! My current car is a 2018 with 18k on the clock and garaged most of the time so I think I'll give it a go in the spring after a wash, de-iron and detaring then get my underused DAS6 out with some sonax fine finish. It probabky won't give me a "proper" professional finish but hopefully it'll come up better than it is now as it's not been polished so far.
Be very careful claying windscreens, some clays will leave a horrible and impossible to remove fine residue that you will only notice when it's dark and rainy.
