In the 2 pack systems where you get a basecoat and a lacquer touch up stick a lot of people just use basecoat and think because the job looks good don't risk going any further so don't bother using a lacquer top coat over it. What they don't realise is these base coats are porus so if you are through the primer on a metal panel your stonechip is still rusting away under your paint repair.
Yh it’s porous and primer is porous, I’m sure you’ve seen cars where they used body filler to do the repair and just sprayed primer and been driving around with just primer, they think the primer will prevent the rust and they will just do the base coat and clear coat when they can be bothered but it’s pointless, primer is even more porous than base coat, pointless just doing half of the repair. What I do is mix the base coat and clear coat then do the touch up. What I bought recently is kwikchip sprayless scratch repair touch up, it’s specially designed for this and you just do the touch up then to level it you can polish it, they have some other chemicals like leveller and haze remover but I only bought the sample which is just the paint but haven’t tried it yet, don’t know if it will any better than normal touch up paint
@@alfgunn you can but depends really if the results are the same as doing it separate, for deeper stone chips I think it would be better to use each process separate including primer touch up as you need to build up the layers to fill deeper stuff and when you put 2 coats on it might look ok but it will shrink and to make the repair look better then you would have to go back and put more layers on
This video was just what I wanted , just finished detailing my car and was wondering how to fix the stone chips on the bonnet , thank you so much John this will come in handy
Another great tool to remove the highspot from touch-up paint is the mirka minf denibbing file. Makes quick work on the high spot without altering the surrounding area.
Can’t wait to watch this later… (just been detailing the chariot to an excellent standard thanks to you) but I’ve got a few ‘read, a lot of’ stone chips. I’ll say thanks for your time and wisdom already cus I know it’s going to be on the button 😎👌🏽
That really is a great result, the stone chips are virtually invisible from a distance, even close up they are hard to spot, great video, I rally enjoyed it❤.
Great video, as always. Personally I would always use basecoat and lacquer Jon. Then when the lacquer has cured, gently knock the top of with a sandvik. Then flat and polish to a shine.
I got my first BMW after watching your videos last week. I plan on doing a full detail to the vehicle to make it my own. I ordered some products you recommended and I will try polishing for the first time... Can't wait! Many thanks from London!
Paint on bumpers, especially bmw is VERY thin. It doesn't require the same level/depth of paint at factory with being plastic. So will, sadly chip moochos easier
A suggestion: Purchase a "Mirka" Mini File To sand down the chip after using the dabber stick to fill the paint chip. Filling the paint chip must include the full chip as well as the exterior all the way around, let the paint wick itself to fill the chip. Let the paint cure to full hardness prior to using the "Mirka" mini file to perform the sanding of the crown of the chip with the clear coat. After this stage you will be able to perform the final polish. Using this method, prior stone chips will not be visible.
How do you sand the crown of paint down without sanding through the top layer of clear coat? Do you fill with paint just below level and then crown with clear coat, or do you mix the paint with clear coat and use the mix to crown the chip?
Hey John, good video thank you. By the way, you can now get paint mixed to code with the clear coat already in it. Very clever stuff frankly. You can get literally a flawless finish. I was let into the secret by a lad I know in a local bodyshop that specialises in fast minor repairs.
from what i remember John mentioned this in another stone-chip touch up video, he said you can get paint + clear coat mixed into one bottle and it's sold as 'glossy paint' repair kit
I just used a kit from Chipex to be fair I’ve had two. When I bought a large kit (£34.99 I think) it had an offer that if I reviewed it I would get another kit (same or different colour) free. It was really good to be fair and matches the colour perfectly.
Nice. I do something similar where I don't do a crown with the paint, but rather with the clear. I try to overlap just slightly the edge of the chip with the paint and after it dries the clear is applied that has a slight crown. I actually then use a clay bar to flatten it and then polish with a polisher. Works for me.
As I was watching all the good work and an ad popped up for some teriyaki foot long, I’m hungry now. 😆 Going to tackle my car now after finding your channel. Only thing I’m not confident with is the sanding. Goes against the grain I guess. Pardon the pun. Wish me luck! 👍✌️🇬🇧
I read a thread a decade a go, a guy got a rag, put car paint on it, wiped down the whole bumper, let it dry fior 5 mins, then he used spirits on a rag and block, cleaned it, let itd dry, polished it, mate, he covered 300 stone chips in hours work, now its not what your dong here, but try it, find a ruined bumper, and give us video of the process, cos thats a huge hack. (not detailing standars of course but were the 1%)
wish I'd read this two years ago :D Me and my 120, then i got to the bumper and my heart sank! Lets say it took considerable time and as a first timer, too, some errors were made but all a great learning process in the end. And I had a very strong back at the end of it!
I used to do this back in the day too! I used to use a sponge rather than a rag for the paint. I wouldn't do it on a nice motor, but it's a great way to freshen up the bumpers on a cheaper car that is badly chipped. Trick is not to let it dry too much, or it will be a bitch to polish all the excess paint off.
Nice one Jon, just what I needed. The one you did a year ago was good, but this has sooooo much more detail, cos you show us all the products you use. Perfect for all us weekend warriors who care but don't have the experience you have. I've bought my nano polisher, ordered the paint from Lexus (yeah I know, money to burn 😁) I had ordered some fine brushes from Amazon, but those sticks look much better as I can chuck 'em away and easily get a crown. Saying an hour for drying in the winter cold for the paint helped. 3000 grit daisy, one of those gone on order along with green and purple Flex pads. I believe Lexus paint is soft is there anything else I should be aware of?
glad it helps dave. i think with deeper ones wait for the paint to dry to see if it needs another coat to riase it up. once you have a nice dome over the chip it can be flattened down and buffed out.
For me on my Lexus I became so fixated on leveling the crown I damaged the surrounding clear. 😢 I think cutting down the sanding disc, applying to a pencil eraser or similar item minimizes damage around the chip(s). At some point you need to say good enough they'll never be perfect.
Great content again. Never thought of using a drill to mix the touch up paint, brilliant idea. My paint on my mk2 CRV is a blue metallic but in bright sun has a purple hue. When I bought the car it had a deep scratch which had gone right through to bare metal and had started to rust. I did buy primer,top coat and lacquer as a kit off eBay. But I still need to put more paint in the scratch so those dabbers would be a good idea rather than a model brush.
Jon, nice job surprised see how much prefer on pad with compound at end, would that not reduce clear coat by 10-20% ish????? Still learning here, every day is a learning day
Hi John , I’m going to give this a go on my m4 in the next few weeks as also have a few stone chips 👍. I have found a chip on the carbon roof that’s at the front so I think a stone has hit it, any recommendations on going about repairing that? Cheers andy
Stone chips in that quantity is a result of driving too close to the vehicle in front. It’s a habit you or the previous owner have got into, probably without realising it.
Good review of the product! Any chance of letting me know where you got the liquid containers on the shelving which hold your products with the taps on?
Hi Jon not related to this video all through very good as always just wanted a bit help I use most of the products you recommended my latest car I gave a full 2 day valet finishing of with goon wax which is fantastic the other day car was not that bad so pressure washed and the used built hamper auto wash after using drying towel the paint work felt like 80 grit did not sleep that night thought I messed up when I got home the next day got clay mit out went over bonnet that god back to normal, now really worried about using agian keep up the good work regards tim 😊
I just used 2500 grit sandpaper and cut a square bit of plastic stick off something, wrap it around (so its about 10mm wide) then rub it gently back and forth, takes a while. Get creative, doesn't need to be fancy.just sandpaper folded would do, just needs to be flat so you get an even sanding and use very little pressure.
Depends how long you want to polish it for and how much you've scuffed it in the sandback. Usually cutting, as Jon said to get the deeper scratches out, quicker.
i used 2000+ polish. it took almost an hour by hand. i think i will use 2000 + ultimate compound + ultimate polish in the future. the compound is maybe equivalent of 4000 grit (still can see swirl marks) and polish is invisible to the human eye.
Hi can u tell me how to clean break callipers get them up to a decent grade there on a e class coupe night edition if u could maybe do a video let us all see how or if u can get them up
most cars can tolerate maybe 10 times of compounding before the clear coat is wiped out. a responsible detailer will warn you that some scratches are just not worth trying to completely clean off, as long you do not see it and then feel frustrated every day.
Don't know why you didn't PPF the front end when you took delivery of it? try putting touch up paint under your armpit brings temp up quickly and makes paint easier to mix and use
Wondering if you could help me, on my car I buffed out previous owners touch up paint, when I did it, it left an outline of where the paint had been put on. Do you know what causes this? I’ve never managed to get rid of the outline of it. It’s like they touched in a light scratch about 2 inches wide. That’s gone from buffing it but the outline hasn’t 😢 thanks for any help
@@ForensicDetailing Thanks for reply. How has this not happened with you? I did a bonnet a few years ago, put a blob of paint on let it dry to then buff off the remaining paint, it left the outlines on that too. So frustrating
🤔…… or, rather than forking out on those plastic paint dabbers even though they’re only a few £s, you could tear a small piece off the corner of a kitchen towel and twizzle the end to a sharp point. Use this to accurately apply your touch-up paint/lacquer. I’ve used this method for years and it’s easily as good as those plastic dabber thingies. You’re welcome.😊
Or just use something thin and pointed such as a toothpick. never ever use the brush provided, simply too big for precise work. then protect the surrounding, leaving just 1-2mm to blend into the surrounding, then have fun with the 2000 grit sandpaper and compound/polish. 1) perfection is only possible with a respray. 2) a colour-matched flat spot is less obvious than a colour-matched pimple from 3 feet away.
When touching up my car I have been touching up the area and then wen it dried it goes really dark. I have got the right colour for the car. Any ideas mate?
The problem with this method is that when you sand you'll remove the texture and create a flat spot. When i started detailing way back i did this to my BMW's hood and it was full of flatspots so i had to sand it all over to make it seamless. Something like Mirka mini file would be better tool to level the touch up.
hmm some people call it this. because you can use a sanding daisy on a block to de nibb dirt specs. But you can also get stones which are more agressive sometimes referred to as de nibbers or stoning.
@@ForensicDetailing aha. Cheers. I’ve seen the stones. Or carbide. Think called. About 60-80 quid. Painters use on runs??? Think I’ll just pick up a foam daisy 3M product or another … Use some stick on Velcro on 1200 grit on scratch to caress scratches or take heads off ( crown ) off stone chips touch ins. Cheers Jon
@@ForensicDetailing Dr Colorchip gives a much better result as it can be levelled flat with no blobs and doesn't require sanding or any abrasion to do so, it's just a solution that goes over the paint that removed excess.
@@ForensicDetailing thanks for covering this subject matter, I don’t think content creators cover it enough. Also how different manufacturers have different clears and how different pads/compounds word differently on each. Thanks again, next week I’m taking care of chips on my 2022 satin steel metallic ZL1. Hey could you cover stone chips on carbon fiber, I have one on my exposed CF hood insert (just the clear) love the channel thanks again Baton Rouge, Louisiana!
its gloss paint mate. the effort required to flatten color and clear, sand, buff, finish and is too much. and the paint and laquer kits are expensive. get cheap touch up paint on ebay for 4-5 quid. the color match is usually good. fill it, sand it buff it up. do it quickly. they are never transparant. touch up vids becoming popular on instagram and stuff but they dont show you the true results.
@@ForensicDetailing Instead of asking how it’s much more easy this reaction says it all…you think are the expert but you remove unnecessary clearcoat around the chip, where you can also do this work by almost not touching the clearcoat but only the chip itself…I did not invent this myself but there are detailers on the web that do know more that goes beyond a bit of detailing…this is working like an elephant in the room 😁
