When dissembling the gun, it is a good idea to take a picture of its initial construction before taking out the parts so you can use it as a reference when reassembling.
@@SR-gs8zo you make good points. I never disassemble my revolvers unless it’s to replace a spring. I can’t imagine anyone would completely tear down their revolver because they’ve put 200 rounds through it at the range. Like what are people doing that would require such a drastic process?
I recently inherited my grandfathers US marked S&W Model 15-1. I've never owned a revolver before and know very little of their working. To my knowledge the weapon hasn't been fired in the last twenty years at a minimum. A good cleaning is due. Thanks Larry!
@edcrobert T Yes sir. That was the 1st time I took the side plate off after watching this video. I did get the blueprints for the pistol so I would know where all the parts went back together before I took it apart. Good luck.
December 19, 2013, a date which will live in infamy with S&W customer service reps for a record number of requests by customers to have their guns reassembled.
Something interesting no one will believe My uncle was a contracted gunsmith with smith n wesson He is the guy that came up with the concept of Rotating the cylinder catch to disrupt the trigger. And act as a safety. Ive even seen the patent on it I still have trouble believing it. Idk felt like sharing that
WoW, so many (a Few) steps I didn't think of to clean a revolver easily and more thoroughly, thank you very much! I caught that technique you use, laying the end of the barrel in your hand and your hand is there to support the cleaning patch, aiming the jag (tip of cleaning rod) to poke the middle of the patch. ;)
Love the feature! No need for me to resource-shop to assure I get the sum of information for break-down and cleaning my S&W 629 Revolver---it's all right here! Thanks for this excellent lesson!
i have a 629 identical to his but with 8 1/8" barrel. nice video and very informative.also,thos grips are no longer available at s&w so if you have them,take care of em.
My two revolvers sat in a safe for 15 years. I then took them directly to the range. After the first few shots they started to misfire. I would pull the trigger and it wouldn't go back all the way. I would then reload and try again. Some shots worked...some didn't. After a 10 minute cleaning using cleaner and oil...both guns started working.
I use Mother's mag and aluminum wheel polish to clean the cylinder scorching. Wipes right off like factory brand new, almost no effort. My gun is Stainless. Hope this helps
So I completey disassembled my 629, cleaned it, and put it back together like you said. But I seem to have some spare parts left over. Do you think its still safe to load & test fire?
Sorry Larry, this is where you and I part company on the opinion of how best to clean a revolver. I firmly believe that were most of your audience to attempt this level of disassembly, frustration, damage and added expense would be the fruit of such labors. You're gifted well beyond most of us. I'd let you do this to my Colt Trooper MkIII. but NO WAY would I ever attempt it. Great video nonetheless!
Thank you for showing me how to take apart this gun. I just went through a fire and lost everything including this gun. It belonged to my father, he used this in Law Enforcement. Now I can save it. It looks fine, just a little rusty and very dirty. I soaked it in rust remover, and now in oil. I was able to get some screws loose, and others will not move yet. Maybe heat will do the rest?
Yes... I'd never be able to steel wool my 629. I'd leave the face a little dirty before I'd do that. Using rubbing compound is an excellent idea. Toothpaste would work in a pinch. Otherwise... great video.
Blaine Nay That would be a pretty short video, don’t you think? Pull the bolt, push out your trigger pins and run a brush through the barrel...reassemble in reverse order. I think every gun manufacturer recommends to not take your trigger apart any further than that unless you take it to a gunsmith. Now you could certainly do it on your own (if you are able to) but for liability reasons they don’t want you taking it apart.
Pushing your cleaning rod through from chamber to muzzle is a good practice on bolt action rifles (if the rod is long enough 😏) as you’re less likely to damage the rifles crown.
I note a rod inside the rebound spring that acts as an overtravel stop on that 629.. These where removed on duty guns.. I've made a few from drill rod on DAO guns like the 640 J frame.
One thing that I had contact with many years ago was; on a Smith and Wesson revolver (and probably on other "DOUBLE ACTION" revolvers as well) I, for what ever reason I don't know, pulled the trigger while at the same time pulling back the hammer. And the pistol LOCKED UP. Back then, we had to take it to a gunsmith who obviously pulled the side plate and unlocked it. That happened on a Pre Mod. 29 .44 Mag. Obviously, on a single action revolver, that problem would not exist but on a double action revolver, I guarantee you'll lock it up. Hope this might potentially help someone BEFORE it happens to them.
Brett Peterson I wouldn’t recommend this as the abrasives that are in scotch brite pads will most certainly scratch and destroy the finish on a firearm
@Brett Peterson green scotch pad is more abrasive, has embedded grit. I think he would of used that if it was good to use. notice his steel wool is the course style.
Great vid...answered several questions I had...as for what a Jag is for and a few others... My one question that I need an answer to is.... Will this processes work with a Older Colt .38 special as far taking down the frame... Great Vids Larry...Midway Rocks.. Target On
May I suggest specifying stainless steel wool, instead of 'regular' steel wool. The possibility of cross contamination from iron in regular steel wool exists, and any contact could decrease the corrosion resistant (stainless) property of the firearm.
I got a Taurus 83S in 1989 and fired it about ten thousand times until 1992. A gunsmith told me not to disassemble the extractor because "would be difficult not to break it" (he didn't know that model very well). Well... I disassembled the cylinder only in 2021 and I found ZERO reasons to open it, it was almost clean; no rust, no lints, debris , no powder, no fouling... I didn't understand.
Hello I would have loved it and dreamed of doing a training with you, unfortunately, the United States is too far away. Respect to you and hello from France
Larry should have demonstrated what a pain in the butt replacing the rebound slide and spring can sometimes be. A small screwdriver is usually better to use than the rebound slide tool.
About how long does a thorough cleaning take? And what about if it's a gun that hasn't been fired or cleaned for a very long time? (Ten years, give or take...)
i know this is off topic for this video, but I cannot find a video for this. (asking on behalf of a relative) one of my family members has recently bought a .380 and the slide is horribly difficult to rack they have owned handguns for many years and have never dealt with this. is there any way to adjust sonething to loosen int or is it just stuck? (advice appreciated very much!)
I can't EVER see myself removing anything beyond the grips and cylinder. JB Bore Cleaner works as good as anything for cleaning up the bore, charge holes and removing the burn rings from the face of the cylinder. I swear by that stuff.
Have a 5 screw Pre Mod Mod 29 made in 1956 we were shooting it Sunday and the Action locked up I got it unlocked but it is still not right seem rough Any Ideas out there ?
I'm a nobody regarding firearms, but think it shouldn't be used a steel wool to clean the cylinder front as it's abrasive to revolver's metal. A softer material like brass would be a better choice.
I agree if you are talking about a blued gun, but we are talking stainless steel in this video- and steel wool is not harmful at all to stainless unless it's very coarse steel wool.
How can an opinion be wrong? An opinion doesn't even have to be factual, that's why they call it opinion. You're a dummy koolaidman007, but that's just my opinion.
Just tight enough to be snug without binding the crane. The .44mag has a decent recoil but if you clean it after each session you will snug the screw down when you reassemble it. If you don't clean it each time, you should check the tightness of each screw after shooting.
Two things you failed to mention or show. You didn't show how difficult it is to reinstall the rebound slide and its spring. The spring is very stiff and can go flying across the room or worse yet, hit you in the eye. Next, you failed to mention that the ejector rod has a left-hand thread. To loosen, turn to the right and to tighten turn to the left. Remember the term righty tighty, lefty loosey? Do the opposite. Righty loosey, lefty tighty.
(all personal opinion) Depends on the caliber and specific gun. With a small framed .38 special for instance, I start feeling enough grittyness around 300 rounds or so, so I feels that's a good time to clean it to ensure smooth function, that number could be lower with a .44 magnum, and much higher with a .22LR and so on. I however clean my centerfire revolvers after every trip to the range unless I fired less than 100 rounds.
Personal preference mostly. Also depends if it's a carry gun that gets exposed to more junk or a safe queen. Some ammo is quite a bit dirtier than others. I tear down my N frames probably every 6-7,000 rounds and completely scrub them. Many maintenance clean and wipe downs in between. Hunting revolvers that get used in the weather after every season.
I know this video was for educational purposes, but Ray Charles could’ve cleaned that gun! I don’t go this deep with mine until I’ve put 1,000 rounds down range through a rain storm!
Please don’t disassemble your revolvers to clean them. A good spray solvent in each charge hole and down the barrel. Copper bore brush in all charge holes and barrel, nylon brush on cylinder face and inside window. Cotton patches on a jag in all previous holes and barrel. Old T shirt wipe down followed by oily old t shirt for protection. Disassemble only to replace or swap out springs. This video is so far beyond any necessary level of cleaning.
Bought a new model 27 in 2023 and popped the cover and stripped it bare. The thing was absolutely filthy from the factory with a fine gritty dark disgusting filth in a 1200 gun. It looked like it was assembled in a dusty field in a wind storm and the bluing looked like a monkey did it. Ive cleaned S&W’s from the 60’s and 70’s that weren’t as filthy and that was right from the factory. Last new one ill buy for sure
Smith & Wesson recommends never taking off the side plate and if you must, there is a LOT more to it than this video suggests especially for blued guns. Removing a blued side plate can stress or crack the blued layer which will leave permanent marks
IMO, way too much oil is used in reassembly. Maybe if you are storing the weapon, but all the parts must disassembled and excess oil wiped off before I would ever fire it. I was taught a long time ago that even when you wipe off the oil and the metal looks dry, the oil has leached into the metal and will provide ample lubrication for proper operation. Too much oil attracts dirt and residue, all harmful to intricate moving parts.
are you using a barrel brush too? is the dirt green (copper)? roll up a piece of rag so it will fit in the barrel, soaked in solvent. let it sit for a spell (cowboy talk)
@@Snubrevolver I use Birchwood Casey lead remover and polishing cloth. Cut a small strip about one inch by four inches. Best thing I have ever used to clean powder fouling on the face of a cylinder. Plus it doesnt remove any material from the cylinder which steel wool may do if rubbed hard enough.
One time I opened gun like this, after cleaning when I try putting back.. Every parts are not fit together ;) completely forgot how to put them back like the first time ..
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