How to clean Fuel Injector Tips & Intake Valves - Honda Accord Sport/Acura MDX 

Glad you found it helpful!

Thanks for your post! Really up to you where you want to introduce the solvent. I'd assume that at 2,000 rpm or higher the solvent would be getting sucked in too fast to lose its atomized status. BTW - The whole purpose of this exercise is to remove carbon: from the intake valve bulb; around the tip of the fuel injector tip; inside the combustion chamber. I've discovered awhile ago that carbon removal can be done with atomized water. The technology or method came about during the WW II. At that time it was called "methanol injection". The methanol was added to water to prevent it from freezing at high altitude. Anyway, introducing atomized water leading into the combustion chamber "cracks" carbon off of metal contact surfaces. So I experimented by 1st cleaning with atomized water. After a few days went by I did the CRC treatment. Guess what? No smoke! ... indicating what? ... engine was virtually carbon free?

Hardly Moving Production

Could you please expand on the abbrev. so most people can understand? I had enough acronyms in the Army...

Glad it was helpful!

Glad it was helpful!

Thanks!

Thanks for watching!

Thanks for your comments! I'd recommend doing the cleaning process every 10k miles. The PEA detergent will also help clean carbon deposits in your combustion chamber. Toyota's solution to the problem was to have dual injectors; that is one port and the other direct. When the port injectors are activated, the detergent in the fuel contacts and cleans the intake valves. Toyota also found that in certain driving situations, it's better to use the port injectors. I'll guess that most of Toyota's competitors will adopt using dual injectors ... assuming EV's don't take over the world.

It's a fundamental problem for all GDI vehicles.

No problem

Thanks for sharing your ownership experience. Good for you that you haven't experienced any carbonized intake valve problems with over 150,000 miles. When problems do happen, the amount of carbon buildup inside the intake ports and on the valves is not to be believed! Toyota addressed this intake valve carbon accumulation problem by having 2 injectors per cylinder; both port and direct injectors. What their engineers discovered was in certain driving conditions, port injection was more efficient that direct as well as having both working simultaneously. A short time later, Hyundai began providing dual injectors on their high end 2.5L engines. Using premium vs regular fuel along with injector cleaner has no effect on keeping intake valves clean since fuel never touches the intake valves.

Believe last year of port injection was 2013

If it's a GDI (gasoline direct injection) engine, clean via the intake; if MPI (multi point injection) then via fuel rail if your have the hardware to connect a fuel cleaner canister to the fuel rail.

I've done this procedure spraying in pressurized misted water and it produced the same result: lots of white smoke. When the water vapors hits the combustion chamber, the carbon flakes off and gets burned out. After around 10 minutes (in extremely carbonized engines), the smokes clears up regardless of the continued water injection. The white smoke also gives off a funky smell ... that's got to be carbon burning off. I'm assuming the catalytic converter is working overtime (since it acts like a mini furnace) burning up the carbon. Ironically, I think the misted water introduced in the air intake works just as well as the chemical cleaner. You have to be extremely careful how much water you inject to prevent hydro-lock; which can bend your connecting rods.

Thanks! More difficult to connect the spray tube to the intake plenum than from the vacuum hose that's attached to it.

@@hardlymovingpro great thank you. I tackled cleaning my MDX throttle body last weekend, might try this out this weekend lol I’ll let you know how it goes

Ok. Let us know how it work out!

Do you have a cheap scan tool to reset the code? You can buy one for around $25. Or you can try disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes

@@hardlymovingpro Thanks. I disconnected the negative battery terminal for about 10 minutes and when reconnected all is clear. Appreciate the advice.

Yes ... one day.

I just cleaned my throttle body on my 2012... It's very simple... Take the air filter hose off and it's right there leading into the engine. Just need to have the ignition ON but not running and the accelerator pressed down while doing it. Otherwise it won't open to clean the back side.

You can do both for good measure.

I was thinking the same, I believe what is shown here is two different processes using PTA solvent to clean GDI engine.

There could be mild oil contamination but don't believe a oil change is necessary. Best time to do this service is right before you do an oil change.

The instructions on the CRC can states to do this procedure just before an oil change.

All good points and thanks for sharing! What I've found, from trying different methods, is using a product call B12 Chemtool which is sold as a fuel additive for cleaning fuel injectors. If you take off the intake plenum to expose the intake ports, pouring in the chemical (with both the intake and exhaust valves closed of course) will eat away the years of carbon accumulation on both the valves and port walls very quickly! As of late, I've been rebuilding Hyundai Sonata 2.4L I4 engines. With the cylinder head off and tilted on the side, I just pour in the Chemtool and let it sit for 10 minutes. I later on use a dremel tool with a snake extension with a mini rounded brass brush to help break up any accumulated residual hard carbon deposits. I then use compressed air to blow out any carbon chunks and repeat the process one more time. The results are instant and unbelievable! You can do this with the head on the block. Use a combination of paper towels and compressed air to dry out the ports. Again, with respect to the Chemtool, I can soak a heavily carbonized piston head for 10 minutes, let it dry out and wire brush the carbon off. The carbon just flakes off with no problem!

Thanks! I use hose grip pliers. Here's a link to see what I mean: amzn.to/3Qz9pgC

@@hardlymovingpro Thanks for the reply, not those, it was more of a spreader type tool. 1:31 time frame in your video. Appreciate taking the time out to look at this.

If it has the chemical PEA which reacts to and dissolves carbon.

You're due for a water pump and timing belt replacement. I've dealt with Honda 3.5 V6's with similar idle issues. More than likely your timing belt is stretched.

I guess you could but your primary focus is to clean the intake valves. The plenum doesn't get carbon build up enough to cause restricted air flow.

@@hardlymovingpro I have Silverado and my plentnum is full of oil threw the pcv system

@@arealmaintenanceandrepairl1103 common problem with some Silverado's where the manufacturer did not put a oil baffle plate below the pcv. You may have to get a redesigned valve cover.

What I used in the video are hose removal pliers. Here's the link: amzn.to/49ddsbo If the end of the hose has spring clamps, you can use this tool: amzn.to/3ukux41 If you want to grip the end of the hose to wiggle it off, use these tools: amzn.to/49ddsbo

You'd have to remove the intake plenum and manifold. A lot of work!

@@hardlymovingpro I understand, I just always wanted to see how Honda/Acura fair with their Direct Injected engines. We have several Honda/Acura products with DI engines (2014 Honda Accord & a 2017 Acura MDX). And so far they’re still running smooth with no loss of power.

Bmws/ VW have been direct injection for while now and they get really bad with the gunk built up on the valves to the point it’s causes miss fires and all kinds if problems. They actually recommend walnut blasting the valves every certain amount of miles. You have to remind the intake manifold and everything. But boy do they get a ton Of build up.

Remove **

@@MrSamPhoenixSame here. 2014 accord with 116,000 miles and smooth af.

Nope. The converter is like a mini furnace and should burn it all up. But an oil burning engine, on the other hand, can clog up a converter.

Dual injectors per cylinder is Toyota technology. Don't know if Honda is adopting or has the same tech.

only Lexus has it. Honda no.

Sure.

Yup!

If it's a GDI engine.

@@hardlymovingpro thanks man, oh and I just now saw how horrible my grammar was in my question.

I'd assume EGR gases being mixed into the air stream or residual gases backing into the intake manifold ports.

@@hardlymovingpro I didn’t think about that. That would make sense. Thanks for the great video.

You bet!

Anywhere where the spray solvent gets in the intake air stream. You could spray through the throttle body if you want.

Hardly Moving Productions yes, I go through a vacuum line unless I want to clean my throttle body too. I was wondering specifically about the check valve in the brake booster line.

@@6atlantis check valve opens in the direction of the vacuum.

04 is not a gdi.

@@hardlymovingpro How about a 2011 Honda accord?

Seaform doesn't have the PEA chemical additive to breakdown carbon buildup.

Nope. No PEA in gasoline and the detergents are in low concentration.

@@hardlymovingpro I always put shell V power in my J35 .. is that better than regular ?

@@jason1234934 which J35? Honda Pilot makes no Difference for vpower, actually may Increase Carbon Buildup., Acura recommends premium, but I run mine on regular just fine. Its all about how the car feels.

Don't believe it's GDI engine.

Pretty much.

Not much price difference.

@@hardlymovingpro it's not a huge savings but I save $1.75 on 3oz from homedepot vs autozone.

@@meblake7359 I get mine from Walmart or AdvanceAuto online with a 20% discount.

@@hardlymovingpro Thanks. I will have to check advance auto and walmart.

You said it!

Are you sure your post if for the right video? This video is for a GDI engine. I have another video for MPI. In the MPI, if you remove the fuel fuse the car won't run.

Might have to get a code reader to reset the code.

Nope. It's converter safe. The converter acts like a mini furnace burning off any residual unburnt fuel or combustible (i.e. valve cleaner).

That's a crazy ownership experience story! Never, ever had a fuel injector failure experience. They do get dirty and can be cleaned.

Could also be dirty intake ports due to GDI carbon buildup.

@@hardlymovingpro I have a 10th generation Honda Accord and the fuel injectors, mainly getting very very dirty carbon buildup as a problem, so unless you can clean it, you will end up replacing all four fuel injectors at one time. Among other problems with the 10th generation, I would think twice before buying a Honda again.