Hey Matt, nice job, this is what I like about your videos, you perform little tricks that move the project forward. Send Aaron his car so you can get back to work on one of your projects! Build on Dudes!!
I have used this trick a hand full of times on unibody cars after major rust repair. I have also used this trick on fenders and trunk lids. It has always worked well for me.
Hey Matt, you have real talent!! Just because your not building concours rides dosen't mean you're not an expert. Another awesome instructional!! Kate's look at the end was wild, reminds me of the excitement my wife brings to my marriage! Matt you are blessed! I can see your home never has a dull moment, lol. Have a great day!!
Nice Little Repair ! I probably would have extended the door skin, but I like your repair for this body better. Good Show Matt ! Be safe and well All See Ya In The Funnys
Extending the door skin would have made the door look odd then. The door overlaps the body so you'd see the door edge tapering from wider at the top. Also way harder to finish that way.
I agree with GLENN ,after all the lollies and stuff from the last 'mail call' she's on a sugar rush,plus having to SUFFER Matt all the time,finally got to her😆😆😆😆😆😆
I would never complain about your welding and body work..Plenty good enough for a car that will be driven and used not put on display like the show cars which are nice to see but I would be driving it if I had one
Hi, speed your weld up, your ripples are all over the place, pin holes from stop start but the main thing really, is, by speeding up your run and weld rod dip in you put way less heat in. Less grinding and distortion. In that case distortion wasn't an issue but yeah over heating can cause contamination to. Keep up the good work, great to watch you looking at the detail. Thanks for the vid.
I’m curious to see Matt’s response to this. I thought he was using the heat to form the round bar. Either way, his reply would be great. (I’m not saying your wrong btw. :) )
@@patmclean1951 yes all good. This was my bread and butter in an industrial setting for many years. The radius of the bar could be left untouched down the reveal. It's not right or wrong I have seen guys at his stage of tig and was just offering some insites as he has a good eye and steady hand. If your not shown one can stay at that level bit realising how much more can be achieved and with ease. All good
I was worried about good penetration over anything else here. Plenty of body reveals and brakes in the metal to not have to worry about warping here. I'll say it a million times I'm not a professional or expert and just sharing the process of how an "average guy" tackles repairs. Appreciate the insight.
I guess you have to remember the gapping on just about anything before modern robotic manufacturing techniques is very ordinary at best. We've done a few where we've had to run a vertical cut down the skin on the pillar side, pry into a decent gap and then reweld. A hell of a lot more work though.
That is the way you have to do it sometimes and the reality of making old cars have better fit and finish than original! A lot of people don't realize the process for making the sausage when it comes to restoring old cars!
I enjoy watching. I learn something new every video. Good stuff Matt. Wanted to ask are you going to more large black flathead tee shirt in stock? Thanks stay safe👍😀.
On E-Types the door gaps are lead filled , I was doing a restoration and had to fit door skins DA sanded the quarter panel found lead , decided it was easier to weld a gas welding rod to the door to make better gap . I did a heavy side smash on a 4 door Mitsubishi ended up no centre gap asked boss for help he said grind door edges and re-weld back up said are you kidding me so carried on trying to pull B post into place I got pee'd off after a while so ground and welded up . After it was painted and fitted back up it was parked up outside , I was standing at the garage door looked at the car from about 40 ft away the body was leaning over , punter never noticed TFFT , car should never been repaired in the first place , don't know what the insurance company was thinking having it repaired , Roof was kinked and when grinding paint off I found it had painted 11 times and it looked like factory paint .
@@IronTrapGarage Hi Matt 35 years in the game , worked on some right scrap only ever refused to work on 3 or 4 cars ether to heavily damaged or just rot boxes LOL . Please wear a mask sanding fillers , I have kidney failure and on dialysis directly caused by the chemical products I and the others around me used .
hey Matt... Although I've owned several Model A Roadsters... I'm not an expert but my friends are and are members of the Model A club of America have informed me that the upper belt line of the Roadster was flush fit and only the lower portion overlapped! I understand personal preference but I was wondering where you got this information?
It looks like tig welding is easier than torch welding...That's the way we used to weld. Oxy-acetylene torch welding...often with coat hangers as filler.
Top-notch work, a first-rate and generous tutorial, great tips aplenty but my man, please start wearing ear protection. You do not want to wind up an old guy who gets hollered at because he cannot hear.
I'd add material to the door edge or the door jamb depending on how it looks when shut up. A lot of times guys add material to the door edge itself rather than the jamb, but on this one it made more sense to add to the jamb side.
I have a question on what is the best affordable quality radiator using a standard size fiberglass 32 radiator she'll with which has the hole in the top like a original outlet for a radiator cap for Ford 289,302, 351 Windsor. I am building a 1931 Model A high boy Coupe with a 2" chop on a 32 ford speedway chassis. That's if I buy it on line which is a buy now type deal.
That looks great id never have thought it didnt come from the factory that way if I didn't see you put the round bar on it so to a novice like me looking at it. It looks like the bulge should be there
Come on. You know you cut a strip out the side of a cone top beer can to take the play out of a door pin. Beat the excess over the top so it don't slide through. More play the wider the strip. Duck butter for lube.
