Just want to thank you for the very good explanation in identifying and correctly connecting the coils, capacitors with power... well done it was enough and all the information I needed to successfully connect mine... thanks.
Thanks for taking the time to produce such a clear, instructive guide. I thought I was buggered when I lost the wiring diagram for my motor. Your generosity is appreciated.
Wow! I have been busy for quite some time to get my motor running. Watching a ton of videos and reading loads. Finally found this video with a clear measurement. To find out I wasn’t a complete idiot, but the previous owner wired it wrong. Which isn’t a problem for star configuration, but actually is for delta (kinda sound like a pro here, while I usually stay away from this kind of stuff). A big THANK YOU!!!
I hooked the motor up this way and it works but it seems to me that it works a little too warm. I don't know if that's normal. I'm going to check if the cap values are the right ones.
hello. What are the data of the motor: HP, V, A, Hz, Poles, etc? I'am rewinding a motor similar, but I have not the data, only I know that It´s a 3 hp motor. I need the rating of de run and start capacitor, and the voltage. If you have a data of this motor, I´ll be gratefull with you. Thanks a lot.
Hello Mr Jean B thank you for your educating video once again, I've almost all of your youtube videos. I just want to ask you to do a video of wiring a Distribution Board (normal House) with geyser, stove, plugs, and lights. Once again thank you for the Knowledge.
The reason a capacitor used in induction motors in an induction motor is to make motor start rotating. An induction motor when it is powered up it will not turn but vibrates. The motor can start in either direction CW or CCW by rotating the shaft by hand. , to fix this problem an additional coil is built into the motor to make sure the motor start in the correct direction (here it is called it starting coil). A capacitor added to the starting coil to generate starting torque in the motor which later disconnected by a mechanical switch. short explanation but you can research it yourself.
I picked up an old 1/4hp split phase I believe it to be? It has only 3 terminals and 1 Earth and with the centrifugal switch but no capacitors?.... Can it be reversed as simply as we've spoken about already here? With just the start coil reversed? Or is it different altogether? L connects to both a Red and Black on a single terminal. N connects a Black with a Bridge across to a Red in the centre. I gave it a service and put it back together. It was running true for my needs so I did not check the Ohms to see which coil was which... But now I discover that I'll really need to have the pulley 180deg from my original plan so the motor will need reversing. Hope you can give me some more good advice.... I like certainty with all things electrical. Thanks.
Hi, this is very useful. My single phase motor wiring is not labelled. I think my running coil is connected to my starting coil and also my so called 'V1' is connected in series. Any ideas how I go about wiring?
for a 3 wires ac motor (common wire, start and run winding) with one capacitor (for starting) which wire should be plugged to capacitor? is it right to plug the common from the motor to neutral, live to capacitor which the other wires are plugged to the two terminal of the capacitor? or live to common and neutral to capacitor?
A great video and stopped my capacitor bursting. One thing I’d like to know, is how you would get a motor like this to be able to go clockwise and anti-clockwise wt the flick of a switch.
Hi Jean . I have just bought replacement motor for a compressor and it came pre-wired. However the set up is not the same as yours from what I can tell. can you review it and comment as all I should have to do is connect the live and neutral supply? I really do not want to compromise the capacity or motor . Let me know if I can contact you.
I have been looking all over YT for this information. Thank you very much, great video. My motor has it's wires disconnected I have no idea were they go. To complicate things even further it has three cap, one has start written on it, the other two has 15uf I assume these are for run. Why are there two run capacitors? Can anybody help me?
Hi Geoff Does the nameplate on the motor state 3 capacitors or just 2? Thevtwo capacitors might have been used as a single langer one when connected together. Do you have 6 wires? What are the resistance between each pair? That will help identify the coils and centrifugal switch.
Thanks for a great video, useful information. I have one question: Under the circuit diagram you provided, the centrifugal switch only cuts out the START CAP while the START COIL remains in play when the motor is running. Are you certain that this is correct? Shouldn't the RUN CAP go between Z1 and U2 (N), so that the centrifugal switch cuts out the START CAP and the START COIL?
Thanks for the compliment. That might be true for a capasitor start motor that only uses one capasitor. This is a capasitor run motor that uses two capasitors. If you are using a motor with only one capasitor be sure to search for a diagram with only one capasitor as it wil differ from this one.
sir can i ask a question? in d winding connection wer is d one who connect is in the line d begging or the ending winding og the motor, both running and starting?
Hi. The best way to get the values of the start and run caps is to google the values of the capacitors using your motor size (in HP or KW) as well as the voltage in your country (could be 110V or 230V) If you dont find anything,share the information on here and I can try to help.
Can you make a video on how to replace a mechanical centrifugal starting switch to an electronic centrifugal starting switch. On this same type of motor.
I followed the wiring which was correct but the labeling of the terminals on the schematic going from right to left from the centrifugal switch to the should be V1 to V2 and Z1 to Z2 for the start coil, to provide clarity for what was actually wired in the video. For beginners it can be confusing; good practice makes sense for more complicated wiring in the future.
I connected the same, but my motor is rotating in both direction clockwise and counterclockwise direction could you please guide me what is the problem Thanks
As comnents below a small contribution... if I'm not mistaking z1-z2 and u1-u2 wireing Order might differ as it may change the rotation sense. Correct me if I'm wrong... that's what I've been looking to find out by watching the video as
I have the exact same connections and a start and run cap. If I connect it up like you have it will start then slow almost to a stop then start again over and over. If I follow the wiring diagram I found on the net for my motor it's won't start it just struggle to even turn. Motor is YL90L-2. My start cap is 200uf, the run cap is 40uf. U1 and u2 is 1.7 ohms, w1(z1) and w2(z2) is 2.0ohms. V1 and v2 is closed circuit 0 ohms. Its a brand new motor. I also tried another wiring arrangement and it ran to about 30 psi for 2 minutes before it started slowing and then accelerating cycling. I just can't believe there isn't a proper diagram that I can find showing everything the connections the caps where they connect for this motor. The useless diagram just show the terminals and links for cw ccw, no mention where to put the caps. 😢
thanks for this video. its my first time connecting a motor and thanks to your video it was a breeze. when you say change the start coil polarity to change direction what do you mean. sorry I am new to this your help would be greatly appreciated.
@@p0we111 All connections remain exactly as you've shown but 'Start Coil' 'nominal' wires Z2 and Z1 swap positions (one for the other), on the terminal block... That's the flip?
Lesson learned.. Thnk you.. Question : what is the usual running coil resistance? Checked mine and it's 15M ohms.. Is that right? Thank you.. I hope you could enlighten me
Hi, on 3:16 you show a connection diagram, my single phase motor has one on the front but it has two Lines(L) instead of one L and one N. How should I connect this. It has a start capacitor. It is a Siemens .75 HP motor.
Hi, i have a single phase motor connected with an inverter but it doesn't have a capacitor, if i need to disconect the motor from the inverter do i need to install a capacitor on the motor? Thanks.
Hi Marco. The only way for me and you to know will be to follow the steps in the video. That is the only way unless there is a drawing somewhere on the motor you can compare to my drawing.
Hi Artan For a 3phase motor there would be 3 coils and 6 wires. For a single phase motor with 6 wires, there is 2 coils with 2 wires each and 2 wires of the centrifugal switch that switches off the start coil when it reaches a specific RPM.
I've got a YL90L motor with wiring diagram on motor, but is it possible that it is in error because it shows a link which would short out starting cap. Surely that is error in printing label, right?
@@p0we111 sure. The in series centrifugal switch will open to do that. But the diagram is showing a permanent copper link across the cap eliminating the cap altogether. For the clockwise diagram it shows the cap connected as you'd expect. But the anti clockwise diagram must have the extra silly line shorting across by mistake.
@ssonicx135 I think you are right. According to the diagram the current is flowing through the start coil all the time. The switch discinnects only the start capacitor. Both capacitors are engaged at start (parallel connection, C=C1+C2), while at operation only run capacitor is connected. It seems to me, that the engine gets started by the two capacitors, but not by the start coil. The start coil is connectet all the time, both start and run, current flowing through it all the time, doing whatever, more harm than good. Therefore the motor overheats, as somebody mentioned above. Please, somebody correct me, if I am wrong. I'm not electrical engineer.
Hi Solo. That is very difficult to say without being there at your installation. A common problem is voltage drop. That is where a cable is run for a long distance and the cable thickness is not adequate for the loads connected. The cable might be the correct size for the amps but not for the voltage drop over a great distance,that is when you get a dip/flikker in the lights. This is only guesswork on my part,not being able to test myself...
