Isn't it better to use a bus bar for all the batteries (+) and (-) to connect to? I mean in this state there is a chance that at a higher C rate discharge the cable nearest to the inverter will heat up excessively not to mention the battery closest to the inverter will be supplying more current than the other two.
OK, I have a question for you. I have three 100 amp hour Redodo lithium, iron phosphate, batteries, in parallel. I am using busbars however my bus bars only have six lugs,,,I have my Victron Phoenix 1200 inverter on the busbars and also and a couple of Victron smart charge controllers. I want to hook a fourth battery up and I don’t have room on my bus bars so am I allowed to double stack anything on the bus bar? and if so What’s the best choice what should I double stack if that’s allowable ? or do I make a jumper wire and come off of my already in use positive bus bar to another positive bar and hook additional loads onto that or will this screw things royally???
What if you have 2 battleborns in the undercarriage, and 2 battleborns in the van. Is there going to be a problem will doing parellel when 2 or about 3 ft away from the other 2?
Bro, you didn't show the most important part! Do you connect the whole set positive on the first battery and in the opposite corner, third battery negative? Or you connect the first battery positive and negative? Which one is it? I have 2 24v batteries..
I wish somebody would address one thing that nobody mentions in their videos or articles about parallel setups. Should both the input from the solar and the output to the load be attached to the same battery terminals?
No. At the least, positive on the front battery to negative on the back battery. The way he did this in his video will likely be alright with 2-3 batteries. Regardless, if you connect the solar and/or output to any one battery in the chain... those batteries will wear sooner. Will Prowse has a great video on his page explaining all of this and why.
Cable lengths the same. Draw power from opposite corners. If you are drawing positive from top right then draw negative from bottom left. You want to avoid there being differences in resistance so the batteries self balance themselves as a group
Yeah there’s tons more information on every step of your van conversion here - we have a couple modules all about bus bars… www.vankookz.com/vankookz-van-conversion-masterclass
I know, I know... thanks to everyone in the comments. I did get a crimper tool and don't do it that way anymore. I appreciate you guys looking out for me.
Did you make sure the batteries were at the same state of charge to avoid current rushing from one battery to the other potentially damaging the BMS or battery?
Hey what battery’s are you using and how much did they cost? Thx for the video I knew how to do this but I needed to show a few people how to do this sometimes people won’t understand unless they see it themselves!
Those are 100ah lifePO4 Battle Born Heat Enabled Batteries. They are quite pricey. I have a link in the description for SOK lifePO4 that are great and half the price they just don’t have the heater function of you are going to be in cold weather. You can always get a 12v heat pad for winter for these batteries. The SOK are highly reviewed and come with a 7 year warranty.
If you don't live in a cold climate or are willing to diy your own heating system (easy) then there are so many $300 12V 100Ah options out there. Redodo, Power Queen and LiTime are all identical batteries. Literally every single aspect of the build and they all have mini 100Ah batteries but they are not prismatic cells and have no room inside for a heating circuit but you could create a box for multiple batteries and heat the entire box of batteries instead of heating each 12V battery itself. The cost of doing a DIY heating circuit is under $40 per battery, it can be done as cheap as $20 per battery if you are doing at least 2 or 3. Alternatively you can just have a temperature controlled charge controller to cut any charge current when the temps dips below a certain point. That could be a bit cheaper but annoying if you need to charge. I recently got 2 12V 100Ah PowerQueen Minis for a total of $570 shipped to my door. I have been very happy with the communication from customer service when I had some technical questions about their BMS. Installing your own BMS with low temp protection (no heating) is another option that allows you to view stats over bluetooth on your phone including cell voltages, input and output power, and enable or disable charge/discharge. JBD and JK are the two top BMS companies, JK is a little more advanced. A JBD BMS for a 100Ah 12V battery can be had for $60 with bluetooth and a max 100A discharge rate. Cracking open the top of the battery will void your warranty but if warrant repair requires you pay shipping both ways....well the warranty isn't worth it
Let's say I connect 2 - 36v 20ah lithium ion batteries together. And they already have their own charge port. I solder the + to + and the - to -. So therefore I cannot undo them. How do I charge them ? And with what ?
@@64-bit63 since they would already be connect by the red - positive and black - negative wires that would be connected to the controller. So I could then charge them each through their own charging ports separately ? Is that safe ?
