Hey Dave=neat trick and i am glad to have seen it. Simple but needs to be shown to someone like me who would have never thought of it. Thanks for the show!!
I love what I learn on you tube. Considering I have a nice Rigid brand swaging tool for copper pipe to do the same thing it is a wonder I had never thought of doing swaging on PVC pipe using heat application. Many thanks for your video as it is much appreciated.
Then again, I was out in a field where there was no electricity so I used the exhaust from my truck to heat the pipe in order to flare it. Got to get creative when you’re in a pinch.
I made a tool for this years ago by turning a piece of wood to a stepped cone with stages the outside diameter of 1/2 to 3 inch to let me flare all the various diameter of the pipe I use. You can even make an adapter to couple the pipe to the next larger diameter. You can't stretch it much farther than that without making it too thin.
Thanks Dave you just saved me a delayed trip. I was able to do this with an ABS plastic pipe I had during an emergency drain repair. I ran a test first and found that pushing the pipe into an existing connector worked great.
I have been doing this for many years, it works great, I keep a coffee can with cold water and a rag to cool down the PVC much faster when doing a lot of pipe for bigger jobs, thanks for posting this to help others to try out...........
I've had a heatgun for years for various projects. Never have i thought about doing this with all the busted pipes i have delt with over the years. Fabulous idea!
Just surfing youtube and this got my attention. Im retired AWS inspector and figured I would put my 2cents in . We have been welding PVC for many years. In the petroleum industry it is done by holding the two ends against a hot flat plate and bringing them to a melting point and quickly joining them together. There is a procedure and certification process for this weld.
Thanks Bobby, petroleum products probably act as a solvent for PVC adhesives, so I can only imagine the problems that you had. And each join would be pressure tested? Thanks for the 2cents:)
This weld procedure and application is only used in areas of non corrosive no heat, and not under certain pressures. The testing of these welds is the same as steel. The tensile strength is as good as some steels, depending on the wall thickness of the PVC. The most dangerous aspect of Polyvinyl chloride is the fumes from ignition and burning. Deadly! I haven't been in the loop for many years but I would imagine that joining PVC has come a long way. The use and application of joining materials is being done by high frequency sound these days' When I became a welder in the 60s there were no rules and guidelines for testing. After the Alaskan oil pipeline had so many problems. Getting welders certified and tested was a major problem. Documentation and inspection were non existent. The American Welding Society was created to be the worlds leading inspection and testing of all welding procedures. Thw AWS Inspector writes procedures and certifies all welders all over the world and has become the standard for every Country. Sorry, I have climb down off my box! LOL
Very interesting, and I guessed that's what AWS stood for. I'm sure you must be super proud to have been a pioneer in the field of PVC welding. Great experience! Guess you might have a few tips for all of us and thanks for the warning about the fumes:)
I have done this a million times, well, perhaps a dozen or two! Anyway, most heat guns come with an wide attachment, about two inches or so, that spreads the heat. Good for this, or making a quicker job of removing paint or stripping wall paper, drying the dog etc. Great vid!
thanks for watching Monte Christo, my heat gun is ancient; also used it a lot for stripping enamel paints off old doors etc. A wide attachment sounds like a good idea, never seen one though
Nice! Especially in a bind, as you say. I can see where this could be useful if you need some series low angle bends, as well, to snake around something in a gentle fashion. Cool vid., will add to my "tool box". Cheers, or the South African equivalent (I'm assuming by the accent, sorry if wrong). ;-)
Very valuable technique. I use PVC for many DIY projects and this will be very handy in my next one especially since it creates a 'Slip-Fit' allowing easy assy/disassy of structures. Thanks bunches for showing us this.....
Great idea!I've already got a heat gun I use for shrink tubing and some 4" pvc.I work with PVC at work all the time,as I am an electrician,but hadn't thought of that.aero ports can be quite expensive and i can use that money on my system elsewhere. Thanks!
Never tried with boiling water, but I've done it with the flame from burning old cement bags. Cordless drill is very innovative, well done for the idea
I do this same procedure but use a customized wood dowel which has a 4 inch leading end that precisely fits the inside diameter of the pipe to be flared and tapers out to the new female coupling diameter. This precisely centers the taper and prevents uneven thinning that you can see on this video. Other than that i give thumbs up to this video
Recently I had to connect some plastic tubing to a threaded connector on an international semi tractor.it would not push on.I tried a heat gun,fire,and boiling water. Finally I tried boiling oil and that finally worked.
thanks for the boiling oil tip john, I would have thought that boiling water would have worked, maybe if you added some washing up liquid soap. Worked for me when I installed an irrigation system in the garden
What a GREAT guy. Thank you so much for that info. I want to make PVC pipe furniture, but I'm now retired and living in The Philippines. No one sells those kinds of connecting parts here. I can see that some of the work could be done with heat and a form to bend around. If you get inspired to make a table or chair I'd like to see your method.. sn
I already knew this trick and haven't purchased a connector for years but would like to mention that I taper the male section of the PVC making it easier to get started when the female end starts to soften.
Also keep a wet rag or paper towel nearby to cool the bell after you get the desired fit; it will save you minutes of time instead of holding it until it cools.
Hi Earthling, so pleased to read your comment, a few people have expressed doubts about the strength of the join, and now we all know its fine. My oldest one is 10 years.
In the USA there is almost always a store open somewhere that will have a connector available. But maybe in a special situation of some type this may be useful to do.
Thanks zonehb, our stores are open until 7pm and Sundays until 12noon. The problem is that they're 20 miles away and there have been times in winter when we're snowed in and the roads are iced up. So, special situation as you say:)
Time is money fittings take 30 seconds to a minute to install. Now being in the field far from a store and short a fitting then again time is money so this makes sense sometimes.
Dave nice job but you only did half the job ! If you make the expansion 3” long then cut it off... glue inside half way push one pipe in halfway... turn glue other half push in other pipe. This way you have smooth no catching inside as would be with normal coupler. 😎 ( glad to see there are some very polite people still around 🙏🏻🍀)
Thanks for the comment Richard, yes i know what you mean. You're making a 3" long connector and if both pipe ends are smooth, they'll meet in the middle perfectly and as you say, no catching inside. Great tip:)
7:17 to say: "heat up one side until soft, then insert other side into heated part" You should do a "Part 2" where you take 10:00 to show us how to cool it down by running cold water over it.
This may be a good way to remove a pipe from a fitting as well. I currently have a 1" pvc pipe piece cemented inside a 1" pvc tee fitting that if I can remove it, I can just cement my new 1" pvc pipe into it. I'll keep this in mind. I did see a video where they removed a pipe piece 3 different ways. The first was by cutting 4 slots in the inner pipe and then trying to chisel it out with a screw driver. The second was by adding primer to the pipe and lighting it with a torch to soften the material. That worked and the 3rd way and the best way according to the video provider was by heating up a stainless steel pipe just big enough to fit inside the pvc pipe and heating the steel with a torch. Then just work out the pvc pipe.
Thanks for watching Joseph, to be honest I've always had a problem removing pipes once they have been cemented together. I usually end up destroying the whole pipe and fitting. So if it works for you, please let me know:) I've seen the video that you're referring to, by the way.
@@davekennedy52 I decided to get a 1" inside connector from the internet. That was recommended to me from Home Depot and none of my local plumbing suppliers had it in stock. I'm not crazy about using this but it is the simplest fix. I was told it wouldn't cut down too much on the flow and if it does, I'll just have to remove it and do a little more plumbing to get it to work.
I don't know it would work for water but I've been trying to rig a dust collection system for a year using shop vac hoses, Through many trials and errors I've found that by using 2" elec. conduit and wrapping it with duct tape makes a reasonable fit inside a 2" pvc pipe, doing that on both ends of a 4-5" length of conduit enables me to connect pvc or a shop vac hose and pvc, then I wrap the outside of all .
Always use a the primer cleaner before you glue , the primer cleans the pvc pipe from oil thats used in the manufacturing process , as I found out the hard way when installing a toilet pipe.
When I was a kid around 20 years back,the plumber used to pour adhesive in one side of the pipe and light it with fire and as soon as it's soft enough,he used to shove in another pipe.worked like a charm.
The internal commentary I was hearing when watched this was a mess of bloody immature sniggering and lewd catcalls, perhaps a sign that I have yet to grow up fully. Nevertheless, thank you sir, for teaching me something new.
Hi tontaiameriki, well spotted, its the accent which gives us away, I think we've spread throughout the world. I live in France and my daughter in NYC.
Sir I could have used this last weekend. Mr. Plumer gave me a $3800 estimate to fix a small water leak on my service water line. I’m cheap, decided to challenge myself and fixes it under $25.00 in parts.
I will have to heat an adaptor just like you show to I can fit a smaller hose adaptor on the end of a 32mm diameter pipe. I believed that the outside diameters like you said in the video are 40 and 32 mm. Those are actually the internal diameters of these solvent weld pipes so you have to add the pipe wall thickness (x2) to have the true outside diameters which ends up not being a standard adaptor size. I could not source such an odd size adaptor so hopefully this method will allow me to push my pipe (36.4 mm outside diameter) into the adaptor which needs to be stretched.
Hope it worked for you Lawrie, sorry I didn't reply to you earlier because I kept on forgetting to go and measure my pipes All my pipes, 32mm, 40mm, and 100mm are all outside measurements. The wall thickness is 2mm. So for example, a 40mm pipe can fit into a 36mm inside diameter. This is in France by the way:)
Thanks Dave, seems our UK waste plastic pipe size denominations differ to our own UK copper pipe denominations where for example copper pipe designated 15mm, 22mm and 28mm are the outside diameters. Buying many so called 32mm or 40mm plastic waste pipes in the the past has never been an issue as the elbow and straight connectors purchased at same time fitted without issue and didn't need to measure the internal or external diameters. Your French pipes with external 32/40 mm diameter would have made my task in trying to find an adaptor to fit a slightly smaller size plastic flat hose (for a pump) easier. The adaptor I used was for a vacuum cleaner but of different plastic material to that of the solvent weld/pvc waste piping you heated in your video. It did stretch a little under heat but I didn't want to stress it too much so finished off filing and sanding out the inner diameter a little more until it would take the 32mm pipe which was glued in. I should finally add that I did practise your method on a piece of plastic waste pipe beforehand which worked well and gave me the confidence to try it out on the vacuum adaptor. Thanks for sharing your technique with all on RU-vid.
Thank you Mika, yes the cloth and cold water definitely works faster. The PVC pipe that I have is definitely 100mm outside diameter, its also printed with 100mm on the side, maybe its a Europe dimension. I live in France
@@davekennedy52 ah oki ici a l'ile Maurice c'est 110 mm pour les toilet Petit conseil de plombier, quand tu utilise un blower pour chaufer utilise un bon pair de gang , je me suis archi bruler avec sa
Oh a counter reply! The game is on! You made statement condescedingly belittling the OP's effort to help others with a trick he knows for no reward other than probably a few thanks and the pleasure of helping others. There is absolutely no reason for your 'so what' statement other than an attempt to place yourself above others. BTW, this is the Internet, it is broader than using local coloquialisms such as "twat" that has no impact on me at all, British I presume, which explains the arrogance, you should dig into your bag for more globallly broader terms of offense such as cunt. Cunt.
I want to add to your instructions. I recommend that you have an extra inch to the male end of the pipe because when you remove it you would noticed that the male piece is shrinked at the end. I usually cut off about an inch where it began to norrows.
thanks George, all pipes come with both male and female sides. The problem arises if you have a breakage half way along the pipe. and no coupling for the repair!:)
I know, I just wanted to say that on a new pipe people can find how it looks. I always use this method - never the connector. Of course it is better to use a heat gun...
The downsides of doing it this way are not only will you end up with an undesirable taper on BOTH ends of the connection, but you might also cause a "Crease" in the male-end which could bypass (Leak) later on. One way to solve this is what many service people in the irrigation industry use, which is an assortment of 7in. hardwood dowels with the last 2-inches lathed (Turned) down to the O.D. of the various pipe-sizes with a lead-in-chamfer at the end, this and a propane torch with a flame spreader attachment allows you to form a Bell while in the field without causing a taper on EITHER end of the pipe.
Thanks for the comment Josh, not sure what you mean by a taper on both ends.Unless you're talking about a slight flaring of the leading edge on the female part, which would be eliminated by a "lead in chamfer"on the tool that you're suggesting The male part that I use is just a random off cut piece of pipe, only used to flare the female section. PVC softens at around 70 degrees C, and the male part inside never gets warm enough to soften so I don't think there's the danger of creasing. Nice idea with the hardwood dowels:)
To: davekennedy52, The taper I was referring to can be caused by the male end becoming heated enough to compress the diameter when inserting it to form the Bell, this compression can result in an inward-buckling or "Crease" which could become problematic later on, as long as the male end never becomes hot enough to distort you're in good shape... Thanks for the video!
I Dunno...I'm in a hurry and need the quicker Glue/Connector It would take a longggg time to do a job BUT otherwise its a nice bell on one end, useful for a limited amount of plumbing.
