A tip, from a not pro painter as well, but im started to play around with 2k paints and real spray guns. Next time you do a rattle can job, try and see if you can find some other tips for the spray can, i know MOTIP and Colotmatic sells diffrent tips for their cans, that makes a wider fan (sort of the same pattern as a spray gun) this helps quite a bit. Also i would reccoment you to try and use spray can 2k clear coat next time, its double the price, but worth the extra money :)
Thanks for the advice, thats exactly what I need as I struggle with the narrow tips with the cans I use. They make very distinct lines. It's okay on small areas but when I did the hood they were very noticeable. Regarding the 2K I think its the price that put me off and also they only are usable foe a day or 2. Maybe when I do another big area, like the roof, then it'll be worth it. Thanks for all the info, I need all the advice I can get
@@davekennedy52 Your welcome, i love how DIY on youtube can help each other. The diffrent pattern (fan) spray can tip does big diffrence, good luck. Very cool that you do these projects.
@@cpr83 Thank you, yes I'm on RU-vid everyday, there's so much to learn. I found wide nozzles on Amazon and they're not Motip, but similar, so I'll get them for my next job
Thank you for posting that video. I just used it. Fixing my 550 XP not gonna lie. It’s kind of a pain in the ass for how simple it was if that makes sense lol.
Thanks for the video. Hyundai trimmer would not start, I went to check spark plug and pulled the cap off the wire. Reattached the boot and still no start. Spark tester bulb was lighting correctly but no spark at the spark plug. I heated the spark plug with torch flame and after that I got the engine running. How the spark plug wire is attached to the coil? Can you remove it or is it glued or something?
Hello, I have problems with the lubrication system of a chainsaw, the same model as in the video. I replaced the entire lubrication system... the pump ,oil lines everything... and it still doesn't .work.Can you help me?
I'll try! Take the bar and chain off and start your chainsaw, just to make sure you have oil flow. If you do then the passage in your bar is probably blocked. Find the passage and clear it with some thin wire. Hope that works, let me know
@@davekennedy52 The bar and chain it's new ..it has no oil flow without them even after I changed the pump and oil lines and worm it works a little then it stop...I can't figure out what the problem is..i put new chain and bar to test it works a little and now no oiler🙄
@@davekennedy52 Yes, it has a rubber plug at 90 degrees that goes into the oil tank that I couldn't find to buy, I had to buy a complete tank that came without that filter but I installed the old one. That plug has a filter that seems fine. Someone also told me that it could be the vent valve..it's a hose with some kind of screw at the top
@@NXT50 Sounds like you;ve had a major rebuild. If it is the oil breather tube, here is a video on how to find and clean it. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-6D9em1NU0a4.html. If its not that then I can only suggest that you remove your oil pump again and make sure the worm drive is engaging properly.
Thank you Paul, so glad my video could help, I had no idea what an Auger was until I googled it and then realised that I had bought a manual one just 2 months ago to put in a few posts around my wifes rose garden
This is the type of connection I'm looking to make. I've got a scooter with a screw on cap and each time the rear suspension moves the wire flexes, eventually causing the boot to unscrew and loosen up. I've tried gluing it in with silicone but it's a losing battle. I love the boot itself for protection on the plug, but what good is that if it doesn't hold the wire.
Got nothing from this video! He is shaking so bad it’s hard to tell if he is making a good connection or not. Then he doesn’t hold the leads on long enough to be sure. And he doesn’t really explain what’s going on with each condenser. He even says, I’m not sure about this one? Needs more preparation before making the video. And he should have shown a bad one so we can see the difference! Also, I noticed his meter had a micro farad position. Why wouldn’t you use that? I would like to know! Still don’t.
Excellent. Thank you. I actually tried pulling the lever and broke it. I was searching how to remove and landed to ur video. It is very helpful thank you
Have a feeling that mine may have the same problem with the tube for the air. I took the carburetor off last night only to discover I have lost my WD40 to clean it, I'm convinced it's the tube, but giving the carburetor a good clean won't do it any harm.
I also took the carb off to clean, so many times! Also replaced the coil. If you have the original "Torch" spark plug, better change it, its junk. The big breakthrough was that little tube, mine was perished although the trimmer was only 6 months old. I think WD40 might leave a residue behind which could clog the carb, a proper carb cleaner is the way to go. Good luck to you, hope you get it running soon and thanks for your comment and for watching
Thanks for the video. How do you know when you have a bad condenser? I have tested mine and I get nothing, I assume this could be a bad condenser. That said for some reason I do not have 20M on my multimeter, I have 200k.
you're welcome dallas, I speak under correction, but I think that if the resistance (ohms) is higher than the 200k then it won't register at all. Thats why you need 20M or even 200M. The reading should go from low to high and end at 1 which is infinity. If it starts off high then its a bad condenser
If you want to find if a condenser is faulty remove the points and if there face’s are black it’s faulty no need for multimeter’s old time mechanic hack
Looks like the normal issue with these ... needs the clutch replacing/repairing. The blade shouldn't be going round on tickover like it is in the video it should only cut in when you rev it up ... with the clutch permanently engaged you need excessive revs to keep the engine turning or it stalls. Had the same issue on mine within 6 months of purchase ... seems to be an issue with them.
My problems also started about 6 months in. I hadn't even used up the free trimmer line that comes with the trimmer! Spent so much time on this trimmer and I've been using my other 2 trimmers instead. I finally changed the spark plug (Torch) and that has made a big difference
@davekennedy52 definitely check the clutch as it is clearly an issue ... the blade should not go round on tickover like in the video. Very easy to do .... take the filter cover off then undo all the lower case screws and the top cover screws except the ones fixing the top cover to the motor. You will then be able to separate the motor and the shaft without undoing any other parts. The clutch is just 2 bolts .... its a 10 minute job so long as nothing has jammed. Mine was just a broken spring but I changed the complete clutch for about £50. All the starting and running/stalling issues disappeared with the clutch repair.
@@rsmith5196 Thanks for the suggestion, So many screws holding the cover in place- I think about 10 at the back alone. Hopefully the clutch just needs a clean and maybe I can slacked off the idle speed a bit. Its running a lot smoother now after I replaced the little rubber 90 degree tube on top of the carb. It was letting in false air and upsetting the fuel/air mixture
It'll most likely be a spring as it's the spring that disengages the clutch as low revs ... you rev up and the centrifugal force pushes out drum brake like pads ... very simple to take apart but leave the top cover connected to the motor and don't disengage the cables as its easy to do without. What you show in your video is way more complicated than the clutch.
@@rsmith5196 Thanks, but definitely not the clutch spring, I checked. Spark plug was black so reduced the fuel mixture and lowered the revs and its perfect now, thanks for all your info
We have repeatedly asked RU-vid to take down this video because it hurts our business of selling the whole spark plug cable as well as a clear violation of code 435.6
Thank you very much for posting this video. I made a stupid mistake and pulled the boot off the plug wire of a very old lawn mower. I dug around and found this video, and I was able to fix it even with it being a different engine.
Excellent information..... unfortunately for me the spark plug lead is just long enough to go on the plug ..... no extra to actually push through the cap and attach ..... But good video regardless....🎉
Thanks Deosie, I've also noticed that on the newer grass trimmers leads, there's not a centimetre to spare. Chainsaws are the same. Hope you find a solution
An interesting equation that I saw first hand. I had hit a stump root and stalled my mower. Upon restart I noticed a severe vibration transferring right into my hands. After removing the plug wire I inspected the blade and it looked ok. My first thought of dread was that perhaps I bent the shaft on the motor and I should start the mower to see how the motor itself would run. 4:13 😅 Without the blade I attempted to start the mower. Same thing, rope pulled right out of my hand. I did get it to start after a few stubborn attempts and the mower ran terrible. My problem, thank goodness was the two pin guide that the blade attaches to had gotten a bit damaged as one of the pins got partially broke and the blade must of skipped past it. I was able to reposition blade and tighten, all good. Thanks for the video. I got to stay away from stumps!
I could write a book about everyone's experiences! What you said about "after a few stubborn attempts" is probably true about all of us who have tried and tried again. Determined to get it running and getting hurt every time. Thanks for the story and glad you got your problem sorted
Thanks for the video - I have the same trimmer - and it will not start after the winter. No spark - so replaced. Made sure that I had compression and fuel. So assume that the coil is the main culprit - Where did you get it? I can only coils from weird web-shops that sells everything.
You're welcome! I've had quite a few problems with this strimmer so check out some of the videos. Especially check the one where I change that little rubber hose at the back of the carb. 2 weeks ago I put in a new spark plug and its made all the difference. I got the coil off Amazon France. Its called a "bobine d'allumage" in French and just put in McCulloch B26. I've just checked and they are available.
At the 25 second mark it seems to show a hole. later on it shows a nipple. Mine is the type with a hole. I managed to find the part in my parts box, it a small piece about 2 cm long with a right angle, on the short part of the angle is an enlarged portion which pushes into the hole, mine is a bit loose so I've used RTV silicone to seal it in. the saw is a Jasonsky made by jason sky group ( never heard of them ) Hers hoping it works with no leaks.
Mark. The breather pipe fits onto a nipple. There is another hole below which is the oil reservoir and thats where the oil filter is. Make sure that this big hole is connected to your oil pump. check my other video and see if it answers your question. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-KHp0bC6H9v0.html
Hi Dave, I have 1 of these units and can't find any info as to how and a visual on the oil pipe being attached to the filter, the oil resivior is an odd internal shape and it seems the filter is a tight fit not leaving much room for pipe attachment. Can you help, mark.
Hi Mark, the oil breather pipe won't be attached to the filter, but rather to a vent pipe from the oil reservoir. 2 of my chainsaws have oil breather pipes as per my video, but the 3rd one, a McCulloch CS340 has the reservoir in the front and I'm still looking for the breather vent, Will let you know when I do. It might help you to download an expanded diagram showing all parts of your unit and it will show the breather pipe.
Hi Mark, I found the breather pipe on my McCulloch, might be the same for your chainsaw. Take the chain and bar off and you will see a little tin cover that covers the oiler for the chain. Remove the tin plate and the breather tube is in the bottom right corner. Hope that helps
lekker like a krekker....sat in here in the middle of the UK with a problem on a relatively new Hyundai strimmer... this just showed me how it could be done.... strimmer back up in running - cheers boet!
Hey Wayne, you just made my day in more ways than one!! Firstly, glad my video could help and secondly nice to hear from someone who can "gooi die taal" Dankie and lekker bly!
@@davekennedy52 bloody strimmer was literally brand new and the coil parted ways so i followed most of what you did and hey presto, Bob is your mothers brother! Lived in SA for 6 years before getting hijacked in 2002.... missed it terribly since! Head of the Irish Clutchplates!
Sorry to hear about your hijacking. I was so tired of living behind burglar bars, electric fencing, securit gates and armed response. my car was broken into about 20 times in 5 years. Moved to France in 2008! Don't know what make of strimmer you have but I have a problem with a new McCulloch. Yesterday it died for the 3rd time
Thanks Anthony, I know that I said that the choke should be closed, but it actually doesn't make any difference when you first set the throttle butterfly gap. The choke flap only has to be closed when starting cold. Of course when you screw in the idle speed screw to make the engine turn over faster, the throttle butterfly gap will also open a little more. What is really important is the idle mixture screw which is usually set at about 3 turns outwards. Remember this screw only sets the mixture for idle, it has nothing to do with the running of the engine when you're driving. Good luck!
