How to convert Concrete to Bricks with Masonry Stains 

I have to agree. While it's good to show new and innovative products, I'd hate to see too many product pitchmen on an otherwise excellent channel.

@@WinstonSmithGPT Well that and trying to get Nye to "officiate" a bet about a scientific paper.

Didn’t feel like a pitch. Seemed like genuine optimism for the tech. But with optimism comes bias and maybe she could’ve elaborated on the cons a bit more

Basically going in the same direction that Risinger went. You can only talk about so much evidenced based building tech/methods before you run out of content and just start taking anything you can. I don't mean that to sound mean, just the way it eventually goes.

Then why don't you go out this comment on that video

Yeah, I'm kinda not digging the new look of those examples. Red bricks looked better IMO.

Stain

Dude don't do ICF, your getting raped. Look up theromass and rent some commercial concrete forms. I uses Helix micro rebar and Xypex to make it waterproof, exposed concrete inside and out. The cost using those expensive products cost less than just the price of the block. Any stucco finisher can cover the walls inside and out with a coating

Thankyou fot drawing attention to the dangers of painting brick. While staining is the better option, it is worth noting that you can safely paint bricks if the building was constructed right. Modern practice for a brick veneered building in north America is to put weepholes at the base of the wall and a 1" airspace behind the veneer which is open into a vented soffit at the top of the wall. This allows for moist air not build up behind the bricks. If the weepers are there and the airspace isn't filled with mortar there is little concern over the bricks spalling or failing. If the building is older and doesnt have weep holes, or the weepers are plugged, or the airspace is insufficent, then painting the bricks is almost guaranteed to end in disaster. The moisture will find it's way through the bricks and be stopped by the paint. If you are in a climate with a freeze thaw cycle, when the moisture freezes it will expand destroying the structure of the bricks. I'm a bricky in canada. I generally discourage people from painting bricks. To anyone who watches construction videos on youtube, make sure to take the climate of where you are into account. Some things which are best for one area would spell disaster in another. It is also good to keep in mind that just because the product exists doesn't mean it is a good idea, or in some cases even allowed by building codes, but they will still sell it to you. TLDR yes, staining bricks is generally better then painting them as paint traps moisture and stains breath, but that may not be a concern depending on how the wall was built.

@@sandymacdougall76 change the location of your post, should be on the main thread. My house in particular in cbs with paint on the outside. Inside are always very humid

It's the same story with concrete blocks. (The script probably could have emphasized that more.) Concrete blocks need to "breathe" by equalizing humidity between itself and the surrounding environment. Most paint traps moisture which will eventually cause chemically undesirable reactions that weakens the block and causes flaky chips in the surface.

@@dustinbird2090 I know that one Summer Dad painted the inside surface of the basement concrete block walls since our base had flooded a couple of times in the Spring when the heavy snow fall during the heavy Winter snow melted. A few years after that my Dad hired a company to go along the concrete block walls of the basement & force a rubber type of product to coat the outside surface of the concrete blocks to further prevent flooding in the future at that time. What are your thoughts about that? The basement never flooded after that.

@@donaldhollingsworth3875(*guesstimating*) It'll probably be okay for 60-80 years before it would become a problem. Might cause noticeable surface flaking in 30-45 years... Unless you mean the rubberized coating was put on the exterior surface under the ground--then it'd be okay as long as the rest of the house was still standing. The difference being, protecting the concrete blocks from the groundwater vs trapping the blocks to be in contact with the ebb and flow of rising and falling groundwater saturation. Heavy amount of assuming and guesstimating on my part though.

@@dustinbird2090 Thank you for your reply. I learned a lot.

@@donaldhollingsworth3875 Cool! Glad I could help inform. However, note that my input is well informed by building science educational courses but should not be considered professional expertise. I have worked with professional contractors, which include masonry services, for a few years but I am not a mason by trade. Have a good one!

Belinda should have insisted he talk to her. Use cameras to cover the angles, one for the pair and others more or less ove the shoulder for the individuals.

Or bricks to fake concrete