This is an excellent video. I would add a simple trick for those of us that order tires and get them shipped folded and contorted. Put your deflated tube inside the tire and inflate it until it balloons up. Leave it in there for a week or so and when you go to install the beads on the tire will be in the shape you want them.
Man realized I put tire on backwards what a mess thing to reverse the tire had to start all over but worked again your the man buddy bikes shifting great as well your truly are a genius
Great video! Thanks for teaching us. The technic is very good and proved, I have being considering that before seeing your video. It is cool, makes the bike lighter for the maintenance and waiting time doesn't encourages me. You've got a new subscriber ;)
Rode right up a flight of steps and did a 180 and right back down them I'm starting to miss the bmx days that I had in the 90s this setup is immaculate
I find it much easier to install the tire with a tube first, then carefully break one side, sneak the tube out of that side, install the tubeless valve with core removed and then try to pop the one bead on with it facing down over a trash can so it lays flat and level using a rubber tipped nozzle. After the second bead is secure then install the sealant and add the valve core and inflate normally using a pump.
Great video. One note: Overlapped 2" Gorilla tape like this might not last very long and pressure and sealant work their way into the tape. For best possible results, use a tubeless specific rim and tire (like the video says) and get OEM yellow tubeless tape. Tape made specifically for the rim will be precisely cut to cover bead to bead (including the bead shelves) in one pass. Long term, bead to bead tape designed specifically as tubeless tape will cause fewer problems.
Thanks Calvin! Very informative, however, I think I just may go to my LBS and have the pros do it for me. This will ensure it is done to spec. Great video!
Park Tool- Question: Looking to buy a Mokwheel Basalt ST fat tire ebike, but want to get rid of the 26 x 4 OEM wide spaced knobby off road tires, as I will be mostly street, groomed trials, or dirt roads riding. Found some 26 x 3 beach bike tires with more street treads that should perform better. Can any/all 26 x 4 wheels accept tubeless tires as it seems from you great video?
If you puncture out on the trail that doesn't seal itself are you basically hiking? Is it possible/practical to also carry a tube and a pump with the tubeless system?
I carry a tube and pump just in case. Have had to use them as well. With a tubeless setup I will usually bring a valve core tool and extra valve as well.
How does this method hold up with e-bikes? I have a Rad Runner 1 that I’m tired of gettin flats on, if I convert to a tubeless will it still hold up with the weight, speed and use of the bike? I ride about 20 miles every day! I have standard 20x4 fat tires!
I had been taught that you should always use a tube in the tire after putting on the rim strip, leaving it inflated at least overnight to press the tape firmly to the rim. I always do this, although I have one wheel that was set up by a mechanic at my LBS and he didn't do this, with no ill effects. It seems like a good thing to do though, and Calvin has said often that patience is key in many bike-related things (like when glueing sew-ups to rims, for example.)
I am switching from summer fat tires to my studs. I used the studs last winter and there is some old glue on the bead from last instal. How to clean bead? Acetone? Abraid with fine sand paper?
please correct me if i am wrong , i always thought that you apply the tape right against the side wall so it adds thickness so that the bead seals tighter into the rim, so why don't he put the tape right against the side wall , effectively covering the whole rim floor ?
You show how there can be a leak around the cutouts. How are those sealed? I have a Specialized Fatboy rim and that is the only place it is leaking from.
The best method to stop leaks at the cutouts are good initial taping over them. However, these systems are not exactly "engineering at its finest". There are some cases where you wait (and hope) for the sealant to work and fill the small leaks.
It can take a couple of days to form a clot, not unlike a scab forming on a cut finger. If there is small bubbling at the rim, these are likely to "heal". It is seems to stream out, it may require removing the tire, cleaning things up, and re-taping the rim. Good luck to you and to all tubeless conversion users.
(I know this response is 3 years later but I hope it still helps) Id recommend using a little more rim tape then you would usually use for a "non tubeless rim" But it can still work if done correctly.
WoD STALKER no problem! Glad I could help! But yea, I didn’t expect you to respond because I don’t know what could happen in 3 years, you could have even went from having a crap bike to now having a bike shop but who knows haha! The wonders of the world
Matt Canale Because soapy water eventually evaporates. Sunscreen???????? I was a pro tyre fitter back in the day and will tell you NEVER use something like that to seat a tyre except in an emergency. I suggest that it will always remain slippery and may encourage the tyre to un-seat itself, especially in the "burp" situation mentioned in this video. Use it if you have to, but strip down the wheel/tyre later and clean it off. Don't use washing up liquid either, it remains slippery and chemicals in it can even attack the rubber. Use hand soap dissolved in water, it will eventually dry out completely even if some gets inside the tyre.
Gorilla tape all the way up to the wall of the rim is suggested. The tape can help add a small amout of diameter which will make the bead seat tighter helping promote a good seal.
@@parktool awesome and thanks for the reply. obviously results vary but is it really viable to try on a tire and a rim that both say not compatible?if it holds air its ok? worst case is that it just doesnt hold but its not unsafe if it in fact does stay inflated? i also totally understand this is at my own risk lol
I have some serious doubts about the durability of this tubeless conversion. If air escapes a bit from the bead, that's eventually sealed. If air escapes from the cutouts or the valve, there's sealer under the tape and this will loosen the tape. The tape job is also not flawless: at 2:47 you can clearly see a gap between two pieces of tape. I also ask myself why not using wider tape like the Gorilla T&W to reduce edges...
With all that tape and sealant fluid you could go with a tube in just a fraction of time....but anyway, Calvin is the best! Have you ever tried milk rice?
Yeah, and then pull it out and patch it every time you get a puncture flat, and run it at a higher pressure for less traction while you are at it. Sounds awesome!
Tubeless systems can be ridden at lower pressure offering better traction, and be resistant to rim pinches of the inner tube. Run with sealant, they can stop slow leaks from small punctures. For high pressure road systems, it is claimed that without an inner tube, there is less rolling resistance.
There are a few brands that offer a kit. There is not one kit fits all though as the width of the rims change as well as profile which can effect what you need.
Park Tool The only kit I found was very similar to the your method with gorilla tape. I didn't look all that hard though. I think I'll just stick with tubes for now. Love the videos though, you guys are always very informative.
@@parktool a lot of thanks for reply! 4 is very good! But depends on tire. Delitire Big Buddy is the best one in my case. I know even about 3,7 tires. It is useful. But I am in Ukraine. There is empty. Everything I have to look for on international shops. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-RUmuqfcMa4I.html
Basic adhesion protocol. The inner rim surface can be dirty, or oily from lubricated spoke nipples. The tape needs a clean surface for a long term secure bond.
I tried and failed on my 3 inch wide (1.5 inch wide rims) tires. the bead connection was too loose. and I don't own a compressor so I am fucked. Going to try and sell the bike I guess.
@@zamzam-br3fi I'm going to buy tubeless-ready tires and see if they work out. If not, I'll try returning them and then sell the bike. They are not cheap for the size.
I'll never use tubless. Such a mess and really no weight loss from not having a tube. You add extra rip tape and a bunch a liquid sealant!!! With extra light tubes these days its likely lighter then tubless!! " If its not broken dont fix it. Only maintain it."
Gorilla Tape is used and recommended by some tubeless wheel companies. It is readily available. There are other good choices however, such as the No Flats tape, or Orange. -Calvin
It's actually a simple and straightforward process. The benefits are monumental, no flats. The pain in the nuggets is fixing flats on the road/trail, especially on an ebike. The first 100 miles I had my bike I had half a dozen flats. the 3,000 miles since I have had zero flats....you do the math on which is the pain.
i ride an e-bike,simlar to a scooter in apperance,and my first one in 2006 had no shitting you 68 flats in just a year and a half.on a single friday i had 3 flats fixed the first due to overpressure, the second underpressure,the last one who the hell knows it was too dark to change again,and on ave. it takes 2 hours to change that tire type.since tubeless i had a bike with no air pressure issues for 10 months so that's why.now normal bikes have less flats i agree maybe once a month in a dirty city streets like here with glass,nails,and what have you thrown around.still for e-bikes well worth it,normal ones not so much.
⚠️ Do not do this! ⚠️ Seriously, save yourself the trouble and money, it will not work. You won't be able to inflate the tire once done, the air will just escape to the side. It can be inflated, but you'll need to go to a motor garage and have them use some sort of compressor. You won't be able to inflate it yourself anymore.
Do not put sealant in before inflating. Inflate and set the bead of the tire. Then remove valve and the tire will deflate, but the bead will be set on both sides. Then fill with Stans; then put valve core back in, and inflate. This method is less messy.
