Just want to point to the Raspberry Pi Imager, in the advanced options (crtl+shift+x), you can set directly wifi, host name, ssh and other stuff directly before flashing the sd card, saves so much time!
Thanks you for this video! I would advise a word of caution for anybody watching this planning to follow along. Do NOT skip the configuration checklist they suggest you do in this video. Do it to completion. I did some of it but skipped the rest because I assumed I would be fine with the defaults in the config file provided. Turns out the config file has the stepper motor reversed, which took me a while to figure out what was happening. See the "dir_pin" entry in the config file. Do not skip checking this or anything else!!
OK We did it, Andy and I both updated our 10S Pro. I mostly watched while Andy did the wizard stuff. I asked about Klipper and said when TT does it he might consider it. We both did the same config so he went first, then he helped me and we just finished. Wow it has transformed my 5 year old 10S Pro. Thank You for sharing all that do it helps us all so much. I will follow your race car as that was a dream i had back 67, but just never worked out that way. Take care and yes Klipper is everything you said it was. Now to calibration and dial it in, Oh Boy. Thanks, Dennis we keep OctoPrint in our system and use S3D slicer, its all working quite nice.
Actually, after ZTest you don't need to manually enter Z offset into config file. Just type ACCEPT command and then - save_config. Z_offset parameter will be in the bottom section of the config file (where the pid data are).
Cheers! I'm about to start the journey with my CR10 Max. I've upgraded to linear rails on the X and Y and a Micro-Swiss hotend. I'm hoping Klipper will give me a real speed boost! Thanks for the config file.
I am in the process of building my Voron 2.4 and videos like this are a goldmine when it comes to easy to understand instructions installing Klipper and the like. Thank you. you are a legend!!!
This is certainly something I will be checking out, I have been curious about Klipper for my CR10s Pro V2 and I suspect the installation procvess will be quite close to this. As always, another good video subject choice.
@@EnochPedersen No, I never found the time when I could afford to have the downtime and relearning. I think at this point that I might just wait until I can afford one of the new printers that can run 5 times faster straight out of the box, with a g-force sensor built in to eliminate ringing and can use multiple filaments. I've been considering making a 'The 100' 3D printer because it is capable of insane speeds for hardly any costs. Anyway, your comment has reminded me of this, so I'll bookmark it and rewatch the video, see how easy it is.
@RU-vidHandlesSuckBalls thanks for the update! I want to get a bambu x1 carbon or a k1 Max, but I figured in the meantime, I would upgrade the one I have to be a little bit better while I save up. It seems complex to me so far, but I'm pretty new at this. I got the BTT pad 7, and I'm trying to figure out exactly how it get it set up with klipper. I haven't found any step by step guides for my exact setup yet, so I'm gathering info based on a few different how-to videos
Thanks Michael. I recently added a SKR E3 Turbo to my Ender 6 and needed to cobble together a printer.cfg from multiple sources like you did. Once I had it moving properly, I then worked on the BLTouch config and the DDX swap. One step at a time and everything works great. Thanks so much!
Just timed my geeetech a10 update to octoclipper for today. The BLtouch guide was really helpful. So far flashing ok, endstop test ok, directions fixed, pid tuning done, bltouch test ok with safe homing. I just hope it will worth it. To be continue ... tomorrow.
This gave me the want to try klipper on my CR-10s with the upgraded 2.2 board. Had to use the Ender 5 pro configuration with minor changes. All the pins were correct for the printer. Just needed to change the maximum bed size and extruder rotation. Tomorrow, I'll work on all the calibrations. Thank you for the example.
I wanna klipperize my bltouch installed CR10V3 but I'm scared to mess it up. Your video gave me an idea of how the process goes. I hope I can find the courage to try it some time soon.
Well has to be said thanks heaps for showing me this firmware, brought my old printer back from the dead, trying to get Marlin to flash to my re-arm board and it wouldn't have a bar of it, took a few days getting things sorted with klipper and a half dead ramps board I discovered but first print now and it's working like a champ
Thanks for doing this. Sort of annoying applying this to a SKR mini e3 v2.0 on an Ender 3, but I do understand you can't make every possible combination of instructional video!
Thanks for your video ! It helped me a lot to install the Fluidd-Klipper combo on my Creality CR-20 (basic one, not "Pro"). I used to have Octopi and Octoprint, I didn't know this way to use my printer.
WOW, my 3D world just changed forever! Excellent (but a little fast - thank goodness for pause) video. To hedge my bets I will update my older Geetech A10 first. If all is well then the A20 will get the "treatment" too. I have BL-touch probes that I was hesitant to add to the standard printers but, thansk to your guidance, I will now be adding them too.
You seem to be the most knowledgable guy out there when it comes to 3d printers. I have a CR10 Smart and I've configured Fluidd, a printer config file, and I tried to make the bin file. I can't seem to find anything on how to flash the bin file, and when I try to do it in a way similar to marlin, I have no idea if it worked or not. Fluidd does not seem to recognize the printer and I am uncertain as to what I am doing wrong. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.
Oh wow, I had no idea that Klipper has fixed the standalone TMC2208 bug! Ever since I set up linear advance on my main printer (a coreXY with TMC2209s in UART mode) I have been spoiled by it, and really wanted to use LA on my other printer (a Voxelab Aquila) but I was held back because I really didn't feel like messing with the mainboard (I don't have bltouch or a filament sensor or anything else on it so I don't really feel I need a motherboard upgrade) but the problem with the Aquila mainboard is that it has soldered on TMC2208s in standalone mode. Guess I've got a new weekend project now :)
FYI: There is a Klipper fork with the working touchscreen of the CR-10S Pro and sample configs bei github User Desuuuu: github.com/Desuuuu/klipper/tree/snapshot
I did find that but I wanted to try Klipperscreen. As you saw at the end it's running and working. Great to have proper control of Klipper from the printer. You can even update all of the components from there.
You mention in passing that it is a good idea to "send M503 in a terminal" to capture Marlin printer settings. But I don't see any explanation of how you do that. I guess some command is used on the Pi to send gcode commands to the mainboard USB. The same omission occurs in the Delta video.
Everyone should also be aware that using the ACCEPT command will create a new z_offset: entry in the bottom section of the config file and the one in the main [BL_TOUCH] section will no longer apply. Just an FYI
@@j.g545 I used it once. When I tried it. :) I usually print functional parts I design myself. One part at a time. When something fails then all fails. I cannot exclude anything from it.
If you get an error when using command: “make” then you need to run command “ make clean” between “make config” and “make”. Hope this helps anyone stuck like me.
Well, I'm happy. All went nice. One error in Putty. Common one so a solution was easily found. I'm using Sherpa extruder so it was just a minor deviation from the uploaded config file. THANK YOU!!! Next is making this happen for my Ender 5 as I see start config files available and in Fluid there is an option to add a printer. I assume one Pi can run more printers. Fluid is very nice and actually it's like Duet web. Copy or not, who cares, it's nice. :)
Hmm, I built my own printer based on an Anet A8+ frame. Pretty much put all of the bigtreetech bells and whistles on it, along with a Pi with a screen that I need to finish installing. I spent many days fine tuning marlin and getting everything to home and work correctly. The thought of repeating any of that work seems daunting at best.
No idea how many people might need to see this, but if you get a 'i2c_config' error you need to run make clean then run make again. wasn't a hard google search but was frustrating and so it took longer than it should have
Oh Wow great video, I have a 10S Pro V1 with lots of updates. And Pi 4B with OctoPrint. I wanted to hear more about the setup after Klipper and the quality of print and the speed can you offer any feedback on results, Thank You , Dennis
The biggest thing that steered me away from Klipper on my Ender 3 Pro was the inability to use the onboard display. I am curious if the Raspberry Pi 7" touch display will work with Klipper and Octopi, et al. as a solution to eliminate the BigTreeTech TFT35, but haven't ordered the screen and case yet for testing.
Yes, the RPI 7" screen is compatible, as is the BTT Pi specific tft50. Also look up Klipperscreen, there should be a list of compatible displays for that extension as well.
Klipper has out of the box support for the basic text display that the Ender 3 Pro uses. You can also customize the menus very freely, so it's quite handy to use.
Hey, very informative video. Commenting as I just upgraded my CR10V2 with a SonicPad and installed a CRtouch. However I was bummed when I saw that the SonicPad doesn't have a klipper firmware generator that includes the CRtouch. Any advice would be appreciated.
I came back to ask you about the Pad 7 for my CR 10S Pro. I have Pi4 and Octo Print but this BTT Pad 7 looks so nice and just has all the tech and Klipper built in. I see You think My Pi4 could handle Klipper but then we need the human interface and other bits I am no t sure I could cobble that together we enough. I would like to hear your thoughts on the Pad 7 and the follow upgrades we then will need better part cooling faster Hot End and Linear Rails. I like my 10s Pro but would like it to be more reliable and faster. Maybe we can design a lighter Bed Frame???? Thank You so much for all your work and videos. Great help to the hobby. Dennis in Virginia
Hi, good explanation I built a large size 3d printer with build size 550x550x600 Its idex system, now I want to add 2 in 1 out hotends on both X1 and X2 carriages, presently Marlin don't support it Is klipper support this setup? My board is Octopus max EZ, it has 10 stepper drivers I am using X1, X2, Y1, Y2, Z1, Z2 and remaining 4 for 4 extruders Please help me
Jyers is great stuff, but wait till you see what klipper can do. And for anyone who's had to compile Marlin from scratch klipper is WAY easier and faster to make changes. Want to go from a 3x3 grid for bed mesh probing to 9x9, with Marlin you will need to compile firmware and flash it, in flipper you edit one text line and restart.
That’s a lot of work. I’m eager to see what improvements come next to make that giant bed slinger print nice! I have two CR-10 S5’s that I want to overhaul to print much better detail
still kind of works today 2 years later.......got my CR-10 V3 humming with an H2 hot end replacement. I used a Pi 2 zero w. Much cheaper....but careful guys. It needs odd things that add up to the cost, like a micro usb to micro usb cable.
One thing still bugs me about klipper: the apparent unwillingness to support the on-board screens for these printers. I would expect the klipper firmware could (or maybe even already does) just expose the pins (probably with some serial link) used by the display to the pi, no? If not, that seems generic enough to warrant getting support. Once you have that, can a plug-in on the pi side then not use those to drive the display and allow it to be used for basic control via the rotary encoder/knob as with Marlin? Having a web-interface is great, but not everyone has a tablet to spare or wants to add an extra touchscreen to the printer and for basic things just wants similar control as with Marlin ...
The BigTreeTech screens are usable with their mainboards but only in the emulation mode with the encoder…no touchscreen. Also the Creality touchscreens are usable with the Creality mainboards or with a small selection of other boards (mainly BTT) while using Klipper. I’ve been working on my CR10S - Pro with BTT SKR 1.4 Turbo, original Creality touchscreen all on Klipper. It isn’t directly supported by the Klipper team but by Desuuu on Github. You’ll need to use his version of Klipper to enable serial connection to the touchscreen as well as his touchscreen firmware update. Took a while to install and get working but finally got most things working today! I can link you the Desuuu Github and info on how to use the BTT screens if you’d like.
from the clipper site under features: "Support for common LCD displays attached directly to the printer. A default menu is also available. The contents of the display and menu can be fully customized via the config file."
@@pippaengroda That’s for the old lcd screens you’d find on a CR10S or Ender 3. The LCD with the encoder wheel, known as the 12864LCD. Works fine with Klipper but people want to see more screens supported. You can use the dual mode BTT TFT screens but only in the 12864 LCD emulation mode. With a bit of tweaking and screen firmware you can get that to work. Also you can get the touchscreen on the CR10S Pro and Max to work with the Desuu branch of Klipper. Would be nice to see them implement that in the main release. Enables serial connection option for the touchscreen all you have to do is flash custom screen firmware. Works great!
This is perfect! I’ve been looking for straight forward Kipper setup instructions since I’m building a 500x500 custom corexy machine and wanted to take care of Klipper’s features. I’ll be eating up with an SKR 3EZ and want to add the BTT driver expansion board. Does Klipper have an option for the expansion Modular’s that you know of?
Hi guys. Sorry for spamming. But i am new in 3D printing and this channel helped me a LOT! So, i am asking. Does this guy have creality ender 3 tutorial for bltouch with silent mainboard and marlin fw?
Older posting but I appreciate it. I wish to upgrade my CR10 S4 to klipper software and ability. The Raspberry Pi 4, model D is still good to go? Do I need to switch the main controller board in my S4? Have a recommended board? My brother understands all this stuff, I do not which is why I ask here. He will help me but I am looking into finding the necessary parts. I am also going to upgrade my heating on the print bed, I upgraded his(cr10S5) , heats so fast now. I appreciate any advice from the people on this older post.
I have a monoprice maker select V2 (wanhao duplicator i3 clone) where I put marlin on the stock board a few years ago but the board died. I had it setup with a metal distance probe, MOSFET for the heatbed and another mosfet for hotend. Since the main board died with it stopping printing after 5 miutes of use each time, I got the printer wired up to a ramps 1.4 board with Arduino underneath but I never bothered to flash the ardunio or set the VREF with the stepper drivers so its been sitting un-finished for a couple years. I would like to get it going with Klipper since I already have a Pi3 with it that was running octoprint but I would go the Fluidd route.
Have you tried the BTT octopus? Been trying to find some clear info on setting up the octopus and using it to directly power a raspberry pi + setup clipper for an Ender 3. I’m assuming (can’t watch yet) that this video will cover the klipper stuff but would be nice to see a Octopus video from you if you’re able.
I am super late to the party. I have an old CR-10 Max. Unfortunately I moved and my stuff was in storage. I recently set up my office and printers, as well as bought a new Elegoo Neptune 4 Max with klipper, and that machine is FAST. Can this upgrade help my old CR-10? I have all the parts because I was running Octoprint on my CR-10, but had a hell of a time following the instructions here
How easy is this compared to Marlin for someone who is doing it for the very first time? I modified my CR-10S (upgraded to Creality’s Ender 5 Plus Silent Board, & Micro Swiss Direct Drive Extruder & Hot End plus all the other usuals) but I’d like to add a BLTouch (already bought) and up the max temp to print Polymaker’s Polymide PA6-CF which is recommended to print @ 280-300c. I’m lost as to which steps I need to take to flash the firmware. Btw excellent video per usual, the content is awesome and the quality is top notch. Thank you for all the help you’ve provided and will provide!
Hi Michael, I have a Creality CR-10s Pro (V1), and will be swapping out my original probe for a BL-Touch. Could I then use the creality-cr10s-pro-v2-2020.cfg as my base file?
I like the idea of pi being on wifi and using a spare old tablet on the same wifi as the Pi but I'm thinking in my head for how that to work best if I were to take the printer to a friends house or event since the wifi SSID/pass would be different there or no wifi at all.
I am at work next 3 weeks and have bad internet and cant watch while video. Do you say that now with the lastes update we don't need to upgrade motherboard to get linear advance, input shaping and pressure advance?
Hy, I wanted to play my CR-10 Max with a clipper, so far everything worked out. Unfortunately, you changed the config file on GitHub to CAN support. Unfortunately I can't use it because my printer is original. Could you provide the file again? hi and thank you very much.
im getting an error when trying to compile on putty. its saying "i2c_config" incomplete and halt compilation. i tried going through and re downloading everthing and following the video step by step but i keep ending up in the same place. any ideas? CR10 MAX printer
Hi Michael. I've been trying to adapt your printer.cfg file for my CR-10S Pro V2, which I upgraded with hemera and volcano hotend, thanks to your video explaining how to do this for the CR-10 Max. I use octoprint, so I flashed the printer with Klipper using the method shown on your delta printer video. All good, until I tried to use your printer.cfg file as in your above video description. I've had lots of problems with it, despite the Max having the same board as the Pro V2. Here are a few of the errors Line 86 rotation_Distance.md (I deleted that line as couldn't find any reference to it in Kilpper configuration reference, and it caused an error) heater_bed error thrown up as control not set. The settings seem to be commented out, at the end of your file, so I uncommented them. Error loading template 'gcode_macro CANCEL_PRINT:gcode': UnicodeDecodeError: 'ascii' codec can't decode byte 0xc2 in position 36: ordinal not in range(128). I have no idea why this was thrown up or how to fix it. There's no reference to this in the ender 3 config file as downloaded from github. I'm still at this moment working on your file to try and make it compatible with my printer. I'm surprised that there are so many errors, when our printers and control boards are pretty much the same. I hasten to add that I did reduce the bed size and z axis parameters right at the start, rather optimistically thinking that this would be all that would be necessary to adapt the file to my printer. This cancel print error might be a toughie though! I wonder if your file is tailored to only work correctly with fluidd? If not, I'd appreciate help from someone in getting this fixed! Bests Chris.
Is this worth doing if I have my cr-10 max set up for large nozzle, high volume printing? ddx, mosquito magnum, 1mm nozzle at the moment. I'm not exactly flying across the bed here
For me this conversion was about getting pressure advance rather than printing fast. Like you I have a direct drive large nozzle setup. I find the blobs on the corners ruin some prints but now I won't have to put up with it.
Since the much of the processing operations are offloaded to the pi is it then a safe assumption that you can get by with a less powerful control board? I'm finally at the point where I am looking to do some major upgrades and have decided to give klipper a try. I'd ideally like to buy as little as possible and keep costs low so I'm wondering about hardware minimal requirements.
Yes, typically the original control board will suffice, even if it is limited like in this case. You can always change it later if you change your mind.
Can You make A Marker And Eraser holder on Onshape plz I really need it in school it’s part of my project to make one so Plz can you show me how to make on Onshape.🥺
Hi just a quick question. Recently bought a CR-10 Max and familiarising myself with it. Been having trouble tracking down firmware source code for it. Could you point me in the right direction? This Klipper setup looks great will probably look further into it down the track..
