Some real inspiration for my ork scrapyard bases. Off to the shops to get me some Vallejo rust pigments. I was going to use some isopropyl alcohol to add to the pigments but that maybe is too strong, dunno what you got in your airbrush thinner .. some sort of alcohol but it's not as strong as 99% !! so I'll use that instead. Also folks remember to use one of your old synthetic brushes for this not your finest sable as the alcohol etc with destroy them !
very nice. I just got some old rust pigment, rust wash and streaking grime wash for my plague marines for 40k. for rust colours I like using dwarf skin and parasite brown vallejo game colour, in combination with the typhus corrosion and ryza rust tech paints from citadel. I'm hoping to up my game with pigments and rust washes though. also I heard the streaking grime (acrylic stuff) works a lot like doing an oil wash, just with fewer steps, so had to try it out.
I tried this technic with some oil drums & it works great, I actually prefer the liquid mask to the chipping fluid at this point. I all so added some texture to the drums via Vallejo model putty which takes the effect the next level as it seems that rust is bubbling under the surface of the painter area. I finished it off with some rust streaks & fuel stains after sealing the previous work with a gloss varnish. Overall I think this is my best piece of weather & rusted metal for this year.
I model on the cheap. I make all my own ground scatter (flocking) out of either sawdust that gets coloured in the electric coffee grinder my wife gave me for modeling, or foam rubber done same way in the coffee grinder. That way you can control the colours and the granularity of your finished product. I also make my own iron oxide (rust) by soaking about 4 pieces of 0000 steel wool in a quart jar with white vinegar. After about a month sitting in the window, I pour the mixture into a large pan (I use my old 11" x 14" stainless steel photo fixer trays when I had a darkroom) or baking dish and wait for the mixture to completely dry (usually about 2 to 3 weeks). Then I take a single edge razor blade and pulverize the contents into a fine powder and store it in little tins. Each batch I've done comes out a little different in colour. Then you use the rust as you would any weathering powder or chalk. It looks real, 'cause it IS real rust! I also colour my own chalk with acrylic paint and food colouring. I never buy weathering powders. Instead, I go to the dollar store and buy women's makeup in the little plastic containers. For $1.00 you can get quite a collection of different colours and they adhere better than weathering powders. For trees, I use the Nandena bush after the little red berries fall off, it leaves a perfect tree trunk (armature). I also have a TON of lichen growing out back on the hill behind my house. When using the Nandena bush tree armatures, you can paint them whatever colour you want--even grey for aspen trees. Cover the armatures with lichen, seafoam or whatever you want, then add your own home-made flocking and you're done. For pine trees, I use florist wire (wrapped) doubled and bits of jute cut in 1 to 1 1/2" laid in the wire, then using a drill, twist the wire while holding the other end in a pair of pliers.. I also use barbeque bamboo skewers with pig hair (horse hair) furnace filters (they're already green); have to paint the skewers first. And I never use spray paint since I use my airbrush for all my painting. I can use either acrylic or oil base paints; I usually use one airbrush for acrylic and the other one for oil base paints. Cheers from W Rusty Lane K9POW in eastern Tennessee
I am having a hard time using Vallejo Crackle. So far it is the only Vallejo product I dislike from the range of 119 colors and auxiliaries I own. Could you please make a tutorial about how using it?
Hi. Some time ago I bought the vallejo 71.080 rust but i am disappointed, this colour doesnt looks like a rust. Simple Revell 84 Lederbraun is better. Here is a question to this tutorial: why airbrush thinner AND water are used for pigments? what is the function of thinner and what is the function of water? After the mixture is dry does it needs a coat of matt varnish? thank you
Hello Jan, thank you for contacting us! Although 71080 is not a pigment it is used to give some color before applying more weathering to the model or vehicle or... etc :) Our pigments can be used dry and also wet, you can get a dusty finish and also a "dry mud" finish when using with water and letting them dry. Thinner and water can be used to apply them or create a thin mud and apply on wheels (for example). Also, if you need them to stay longer you can use our pigment binder. And no, you don't need a second coat of varnish :)
@@vallejocolors Thank you for the answer. My intention was tu achieve something like that 2:46, ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-i7usSkZvCJs.html can you sugest me wich Vallejo paint should I use? I need a rusty paint for rails as well. the 71.080 doesnt work for this
@@jankochanowski3252 You can try the same color recipe shown in that video: 71130+ Liquid mask 70523 + 71005 to get a rust effect. First apply the orangy color, then liquid mask randomly and when it is dry, a second darker layer. When the paint is completely dry, remove the liquid mask with your finger to achieve the rusty effect. But keep in mind, you'll need a lighter color, liquid mask and a darker color for the last layer. ;)
I use the AKs worn effects for my rust jobs wish vallejo done more in that line as vallejo is normally my everyday go too now but really not liking the khaki and stone paints they clog the airbrush up with the pigment it's just not desolved and need to now be careful with these select paints I use for desert detail
Hola Jose Luis, muchas gracias por tu comentario y por supuesto por confiar en nuestros pigmentos. Esperamos que te esten ayudando mucho en tus piezas :)
All is good but i probably could get away with regular elmer glue here the same and if not i can experiment with until i can get it right. Just saying.
