Very nice. I'm in the beginning stages of JK axles under a TJ Jeep and this is exactly what I've been looking for. Owned my own welding shop for 40 years and you were perfect. Knowledge is priceless and thank you for sharing!
This is a great video, well done! I love to see all the Binders in the background :-) Something I have been thinking about doing on my 75' IHC pickup - you broke it down nicely! Thanks.
Thanks for the great video. I'm about to do this and it's a huge help. Reminder...do not use chlorinated brake cleaner to clean before welding. If any is left when you go to weld it, it will release deadly gas
Thanks for the Video Levi, with so many people on Facebook now asking how or where do I get a C&T done, this is their answer. I did my own when I did my IHPA SOA install with reverse shackle, set to 5 degrees. I did have to knock my knuckles right off too. Crusty canadian axle. I used an analog angle finder, if I was to do another a digital one is a good bet better and more consistent it seems. Cheers!
Great to see someone like yourself willing to take the time to share your knowledge and enable others to become more self-sufficient. A great reflection upon yourself and the IH community we have come to love. Keep these videos coming and wishing you continued success!
This is a great tutorial. There’s how to videos that show you step by step. But this felt as if you were kneeled down next to us in person showing us the key details that you’ve learned over the years to keep from letting this type of job take all day ending in frustration. Thank you! Unfortunately there are some of us that are stuck with the harbor freight welder 😭
@@OldIronOffroad I have the OmniPro220 and I've made tens of thousands of dollars with the machine over the past few years just doing side work, mainly handrails. Excellent tutorial, thank you. I'm doing a Super Duty Dana 60 for my 08 F150 SAS
I was hoping to see your rendition of the spring over part. The cut and turn part seems pretty spot on. (I use a porta-band to cut the weld) Also I've always set mine up in the truck. Never done one out of the vehicle.
I use to do them under the vehicle but I seriously couldn't tell you how many of these we have done. We pretty much have it figured out for spring under or over.
Thx for the information. I feel like I can do this. I have the Castor where I want it I just now want to change the pinion angle because I'm going through driveshafts in a lot of vibration
Great video and good advice for novice welders. If your doing many of these, you may want to make some simple stands to get the axle at a comfortable working height rather than working on the ground.
Great video, thanks. Can you elaborate how you set the new angle of the C's - what is your reference point? Are you setting the machined part of the pumpkin where the cover goes at 0 degrees then rotating the C's from there, or do you just rotate them 6 degrees (or what ever angle you're trying to achieve) from where they originally were?
Do you ever see a camber change after rotating the knuckles, and is it worth checking camber angles before/after? or does the fit on the tube pretty much keep camber angle the same? I know my Scout axle has about 1 degree positive camber on both sides as of right now.
No sir and if it changes it is minimal. The inner C is has a thou. Or so of interference so there isn't much room for you to drastically affect camber. That being said there are camber shims you can place between he outer knuckle and spindle should the need arise.
Great video. Wish I could find someone to do this on my Scout (San Diego area.) Mine drives okay (4" spring under, 5" shackles and 4* caster wedges) but its right at zero degrees caster. Its not scary but you have to pay good attention to where she is going. Question for you, would it be a good idea in my case to flip the 4* caster wedges and then cut and turn for a 4-6* positive caster? Front drive shaft is stock and I know the pinion is supposed to be level (parallel) with the ground but if I rotated it up a little would it cause much issue? Not planning on high speeds with the front axle engaged.
If you were going to cut and turn I would absolutely turn your wedges around. Reason being is at full droop even with just the 4 inch springs the driveshaft can bind at the yoke sometimes. You will never notice any vibrations unless you decide to do 60 mph with the front axle engaged.
Great video man. Do you think about 1.5° difference between both sides is a big deal? Got way too far into building this axle before I realized and I don't think it will be possible to fix
ngl, I'm thinking of taking any old ford 9" and converting it into a front axle for my bronco so I can have an easier time to match the ratios for 4wd (hi or lo). the dana 44 is great n' all but maybe a 9 inch would be better (supporting torque and weight as I plan to do some snow plowing during winter especially. also the weight capacity may come in handy for when it's driving around with the plow attached?
9 inch axles are great. Actually have messed around with custom built 9 inch fronts. The pinion support makes them hefty. Lots of aftermarket support as well.
Great video! Although I think it's a bit much of a job for me and my cheap mig to handle. Where are you located? And how could I talk to you about getting a soa dana 30 widetrac turned? Thanks in advance
thanks for your video, pls which gas you use to preheat the axle before welding? and which material and gas do you use go weld it ? I am not gonna do that, I will give it to exprerienced welder, but why do you think the harbor fright weld maschine cant do that ?
Any thing with a clean flame is fine for preheat. Our migs run a 75/25 mix of Argon an Co2. A harbor freight machine is fine for welding with as long as it is a 220 volt machine capable of pushing the amps required to weld that thick of material.
My buddy wants to run Chevy one tons under his early 70s scout, do you know if they make a shackle kit that bolts into the frame with little fab work 😎💯✌thank you
Hello! Great video! It really helps out to people who has never done it. I notice that your emphasis was mainly on the casters and as I was watching im thinking...what about the angle of the differential? What about the Camber? I know that the camber can be fixed with the sleeves but im lost with the angle on the differential. I believe you said that the differential was level and that you were going to turn the ends in between 4 to 6 degrees. Was the differential level at where the perch for the leaf springs is? Was that how you did it? If so, how are you going to give the necessary angle to the differential? Im sorry for all the questions but im lost and I need to do this to my Jeep. Oh!☝🏽 where are you located? Maybe I can just take it in, thanks.
There is alot more involved than what I covered in the video. The main purpose was to educate about caster and show you how to properly change it. If you wish to change your pinion angle you will have to take that into consideration when making caster adjustments.
I dont think so. On a 79 Ford dana 44 you will probably have the wedges that the radius arms attach to to contend with. I also believe on the later Ford tuck 44 the wedges are cast with the knuckles.
I have a 73 scout it has under axle springs . Do you recommend changing to over axle ? What is advantage or disadvantage ? I want to put 32 in tires on it . Please help
Probably is going to depend on location and whether your axle needs torn down or not. On a bare housing I would expect to pay somewhere between 350-500 dollars for the cut and turn.
You mention that the knuckle is cast steel, not iron. Is this true for the pumpkin as well? Just curious how hard it is to weld the perch on the passenger side when doing a spring over?
That is part of it. When you raise the pinion angle you are creating poor caster angle that needs to be corrected. That being said scout 44s can benefit from caster improvement on anything over a 2.5 inch lift.
Should I afraid of any ki d wrapping or something ,that when finish welding tahn caster or camber will be little bit off ? In my opinion it shouldnt happen ,knucke is really tight on the tube.Whats you think?
Thats cool,I will see actual resulit in alignment shop, because I measure it on unmounted axle with anglefindders and measurements are always different from previous mesas..But its seem only about 0.5° one side and 0.1° so its not so bad I think,it could be also by old balljoints which are still in.
@@OldIronOffroad and I also thinking, with those camber shims behind spidle are hub bearing bolt heads not straight on surfance ,isn it problem or there should be also shims with equal degree under each bolt? AND ALSO I did dana 30 now I have camber +20 ,could it be as I slammed it out with hammer I bent it so it has +20°? NORMALLy it is about MINUS 30-40°
@OldIronOffroad I'm in ok. Too far for me to bring you my rear end. I need a cut and turn done. I might have to just do it. Thank you for video. Great info!
I don't believe so. Aftermarket replacements are forged. Actually I take that back. Even the replacements are listed as cast. apebuilt.com/products/dana-44-inner-knuckle-inner-c-pair-1
@@OldIronOffroad You can tell by the parting line, the OE ones are FORGED, those in your link do look to b cast? Thick parting line that looks like it's been sawn off = Forged, thin line thats kinda sharp = Cast.
@@stevegarboden2437 definitely seems to be something that has been a source of discussion for a while. I think the main thing is to recognize that it isn't cast Iron. I don't know that the weld process between cast steel or forged would be different. Pre heat , weld , slow cool. Would definitely appreciate seeing some documentation from Dana stating that the stockers were forged. If that is the case there wouldn't ever be much of a need for aftermarket Cs.
