Jon, you are the reason I became really interested in woodworking. I was a hairdresser for 15 years, now a nurse for about 4 years. Your videos make woodworking so easy, so I began buying some tools and built some little projects. I realized it is Not so easy for a beginner! I made so many mistakes !!! I will stick to nursing for a living but on my spare time I will be enjoying building stuff after watching your videos!! Thanks for being a great teacher and sharing your tips and tricks! Hilda.
Good tips, Jon! I need to check that caulk out. I've been using a DAP caulk, but I'm seeing some cracks and splits in the crown moulding after just 3 years.
TVs get bigger every year, which is why building a surround cabinet is generally a bad idea. My last house had a big inset for a tv above the fireplace, yet too small for the tv, so I had to build a custom box with a tv mount that had a 2 foot arm to extend out far enough to hang the tv just beyond the inset wall.
They say you learn something new every day. I've been doing millwork installations and we just finished a restaurant last week. I learned today that the thing I had been calling the window sill for 3 weeks, is actually the window stool. :-)
New to the channel. Loads of information here. Love the end of the apron trick, never would have thought of it and it makes it look so much better. Thank you for sharing your skills. :)
that is the same baseboard and molding the guy installing it in our kitchen. Thanks for posting so I can see how it all fits since next week is when it will be installed.
So I have a technical Q. Why do you shoot the nail in at the roundest part of the base boards? It becomes impossible then to hide the nails, and fill it to a perfect dome profile. My carpenter did the same and it’s impossible to make the profile round again, and it shows thru the paint as well.
The thing I notice about his cuts is he eases into the board like a surgeon, pushes through and then slows way down as he exits. I tried this today on some cuts and it makes a huge difference. Also swapped out a 60tooth for a 80 tooth Diablo and wow.
Great video and I really like how you laid out what products you are going to use. One question what type blade are you using to cut the moulding my saw has a rip blade I believe is that ok for moulding or should I go with something finer.
One of the qualities that is really great about Big Stretch is that it is chemically friendly with mineral oil unlike silicone caulk. I found out about silicone caulk and mineral oil not co-habitating the hard way when we installed a teak kitchen counter. The contractor used silicone caulk and we treated the counter with mineral oil initially and regularly to maintain it. The silicone caulk shriveled up and looked terrible, lost all qualities for which you use it except some adherence. I had to remove it all which was a very difficult, tedious job. Neither the contractor nor the architects had ever heard of the problems with silicone and mineral oil. I researched many, many products until I found Big Stretch. I performed some experiments and found it got along just fine with mineral oil. The only problem is that it is water based. Getting it to dry and cure around the sink is an ongoing struggle we are still coping with. But, I hope anyone else thinking of using wood in a similar environment might benefit knowing this in advance. Great videos, by the way!
One question for you. I am planning construction where I will place AC duplex outlets in the base trim. How do you go about accurately cutting these holes in the trim, after the power boxes are already installed in the base of the wall?
I have internal doors in my hallway which are standard width but a little too wide in total for standard width trim/casings. In addition one side is narrower than the other. The trims have been cut down to suit but it just doesn't look good. Should I rip all the trim for sides and top of doors to the same width? Can a casing be too narrow?
Thanks for the video Jon; it really makes me want to get back in the shop and start building. I am really looking forward to the build videos of the cabinets.
On new or remodel construction, is there a rule of thumb when picking or designing trim? For example, in new construction, if there are high ceilings or a very spacious room it might look odd to have have general 3 1/2" baseboards. For aesthetic and balance of the room I would assume the width of the baseboard would have be a rough percentage of the room/home total square footage plus ceiling height. The same question would be applied to casing and crown. Should crown be the same width as baseboard? Does it not matter? Is there a general rule of thumb when deciding? Thanks
Love to hear any ideas on how to avoid build up in the corner where the casing meets the baseboard. I always end up trying to dig out the excess with a 5-in-1.
Could you please point me to dimensions of the casing, base, and shoe. Also can you please say what material was used for window stool? What are the chances big box shops carry the casing? Is that casing finger jointed pine? Thanks Jon. Great as usual.
I have plain square moulding around all my doors windows and baseboards throughout my house and my question is would it be possible to refurbish them using a router to add a bit of design to it if so could you demonstrate that in a video
Any chance you'll be covering those built-ins on the channel? I am in the planning phase for some built-ins in my living room and would love to see your take on a project like that before solidifying my plans.
Jon, I wanted to ask , do you have any ideas how to make your own trim using reclaimed wood? I have limited tools, no lathe or router. Any suggestions what tools to use?
I have a question for molding a door. I have a door that I molded on the left and top of the door. I can't mold the right because the previous owner put a wall next to the door. (Where the molding is supposed to be.) The door is on the east side wall and the wall is facing south. Now I have a 1/4 of an inch gap. How can I mold that?
That’s a tough one... sounds like you’ll need to fill the gap with a wooden shim on the side of the molding. And then fill with caulk or joint compound.
Great video and helps if one is using painted trim. How do you fill these gaps if one is going with a non-painted finish on the trim? I understand using filler between joints but how would you fill the gaps, say on the top of the base molding?
Nice video Jon. For generations things were done a certain way, and today not many were taught in the same manner so a lot of times the new way is accepted as being correct, maybe some are. It’s nice that you take your time and effort to show how things should be .
So after you smoothed out the caulk at the top of the baseboard...how do you ensure that caulk smear on the paint isn’t visible? I feel like you either have to come back and paint over it or use painters tape in the first place to avoid that. Any tips??
With molding I typically use adhesive in the back, and use store brand caulking in the crack. Still cracking occurs seasonally. Would switching to big stretch eliminate the need for adhesive in the back?
Shoe mould that is stained same color as the hardwood floor looks better. Plus, when you drag your Swiffer push broom across the floor you’ll jack up painted shoe mould as it brushes against it.
During his toy/blanket chest video, he mentions the spackle you suggest. (ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-7rt5RbExOgk.html). I'm imagining he would do the same for interior trim work.
Great work and attention to detail. I've found, however, the best place to spot a nail, after painting, is by placing it on the bead. Best to do that in a groove or flat area, so the filler can be sanded more easily. I note too, that putting bevels on the outsides of the cut of the caulking nozzle will more accurately put the caulk where it's needed, with less excess.
