It'll look good from my house AND your house too!😃 Patreon: www.patreon.co... Here is the glue and activator used: amzn.to/3zv6WKA amzn.to/3l2UA8P amzn.to/3x068ff
“I don’t know the name of the tools. I just know how to use them.” Sounds like something I would say and having to go get one more piece of material, totally something I would do. This is why I love your channel! Just super real and authentic.
It's a Combination Square. The vinyl window itself isn't square, they often aren't, and that's why your corners weren't the same dimension. I would actually make the casing square, and probably pocket hole it together, slide it in, only blocking the bottom and sides enough to allow one shim to position the whole thing until the reveal on each side is even.
Spending the weekend at the in-laws... They're really happy I learned to feather my edges... I spent all day fixing the "drywall guy's" finishing touch.
Thank you very much for making this video I been in the field for 5 years and it’s always nice to see what other fellow carpenters do to get the job done …. Amazing work and keep it up boss .!!!
GF and I remodelled the basement. We got through half the project without knowing the tool names until she became confused as our tool list increased. Then I actually had to start using the tool names, we both hated it and agreed to continue using descriptions such as: zip zip (jig saw), the saw (circular saw), metal thingy (flat pry bar), chopity (chop saw), etc.
Love your videos but these two are pretty old school. The less you use your tape measure in finish carpentry the better. How about cut your pieces to length. Set them against the window reversed, and draw a line flush with the drywall. Perfect coping line. Build the entire frame (use CA glue to temp hold). Once entire frame is built, shoot it in place through the casing. If you need to put spray foam between the stud and frame, then attach the casing later. I also use my laser level and put drywall screws into the studs sitting proud BEFORE putting the frame in place. These screws are easy to advance or recess to shim the frame exactly where I want it, and this doesn't require all those measurements with the tape measure. You can add small pieces of 1/2" ply plus shims afterwards if you shoot through the frame to provide the support that the drywall screws don't. Love your videos, but these are all tricks that I have learned from other more skilled people than myself.
Most people on an interior job don’t realize how much time and expertise goes into making their “ oops, the painter will fix it” mistakes disappear. Usually I give them 2 strikes then it’s backcharge discussion time. It’s amazing how careful they can be if they think they’ll actually be held accountable for their carelessness-
I always install that trim (jamb?) by drilling holes trough side and screw it directly to window frame no need to do different thickness blocks between that trim and stud and biggest reason for that is we always use factory painted trims so you don't want any nail holes and also it need to be 100% perfect where it meets window frame no caulking.
Always good info, even if a couple years old. One thing I learned doing trim... 99% of anyone who visits your home will never notice the tweaks, slight imperfections or minor mistakes we make putting it up. It just drives me crazy because I know where they all are and have to live with it.
Turned out good bud. Insider carpenter has a video of the same concept, but he made a jig and set the heads of drywall screws to the jig and premade the whole window frame and slid it in. Fit like a glove i thought. So i tried it on a sidejob i did and it was alot faster to prebuild the complete jamb and casing. That job was a good one. Keep up the good work. Ive learned alot from you when it comes to anything drywall haha i did a 750 linear foot of paper worth of ceiling board replacement sidejob and u where my go to drywall guy to make it look good mr "dont forget to feather the edges" lol
When I make jamb extensions I like to cut rabbits on the top of the legs and glue and nail the header to them. It makes for a stronger joint, the pieces are less like to rotate/twist and open later down the road. Pretty much the same way that a pre-hung door jamb is made. I also like to use a laser level to determine if there is any variation from one side of the window stool to the other, I can compensate the leg lengths during cutting and end up with a perfectly square, plumb, and level jamb extension before I even install it making casing a lot easier.
moisture is a much bigger problem in our local environment than cold or heat, I think I'd prefer the tape or liquid flashing seal on the outside and a bit of airflow on the inside just in case things get a bit humid inside. i don't think this is like Matt Risinger or someone with complete control over the whole build.
Dang, man.... You look like youre back in your element! Love seeing you work this stuff! Ive learned waaaaayyy too much from you and I thank you so much! Keep up the amazing work, attitude and inspiration.... Thanks!
i think the reason for the trim growing is because you use a tape roll. you press it down when mesaring the the windows but hook it when you do the wood. the end of those tape mes willl actually move just a tiny bit when you hook them and pull otherwise great work!
That tiny movement is actually accounted for by the thickness on the end hook. That is on a brand new tape. Over time if you do not take good care of it especially by letting slam home on returning then yes, the holes will get bigger making it less accurate. Also the end hook could become bent especially if you drop it wrong. just a little kink can throw your finish work off. That's why some old school carpenters, and new ones for that matter, prefer to use the folding wood rulers.
Very nice result. does all windows resquire so much job or this is specific case ? in europe, windows come with all covers and only need to be applied on top of the plasterboards
When you say smallest distance to the window, is that the distance from the drywall to the outer edge of the window? Is that the distance of the smallest open gap between the window framing and the edge of the window?
26 years I've been a residential replacement window contractor in michigan. I didn't realize Canada is a tropical climate and doesn't need any insulation between the window and the 11/16 to 3/4 inch gap around the window. That was a super hard way to get an OK looking job when realistically caulk and paint make it what it ain't. Spray foam and caulk will be your best friend in the future.
Measure the height and width of the window and from the window to the outside of sheetrock. Subtract the thickness of the top and bottom pieces and build a box. If you're leaving a 1/4" reveal add a 1/2" to the inside dimensions of the box and those are the short point measurements of the trim. When it's a wrap around sill and bottom skirt like that the outside dimensions for the bottom are you notch it. Add 1/4" for the reveal too the width of the trim and that's the length of the notch if you're making it flush with the outside of trim. I always go 3/4" past the outside of trim unless the customer wants something else. All that walking back and forth and measuring every piece and nailing one piece at a time adds up to a lot of wasted steps and wasted steps are wasted time. I've heard you say not to waste steps in your mud and tape videos and I agree with you but that applies to every trade also.
How did you know that I have like 12 windows I gotta trim out??? You been chatting with my wife?? WELL, HAVE YA!! 😂 Thanks for these two videos... I'll need all the tips I can get!!
what? is Ben doing carpentry work? Nah but seriously, it's great to see that you are just as skilled in carpentry as you are in drywalling. I don't think drywalling is a word but it should be.
Hey Ben, I was gonna mention it on the last video about using ca glue and accelerator on the turn-arounds at the ends of your sill instead of wood glue, but I see you found it in enough time to do this part of the project.😉
What's the reason for assembling the casing first and then installing it on the wall in one go? In your door casing video you installed the pieces individually and joined them with wood glue
This is taking me down memory lane - 25+ years of doing what you’re doing here , for a living. Total flashback when you were calling out the widths , 2 1/2 , 2 3/8 , 2 1/2 … 2 1/4 !!? And I recalled that sometimes I’d leave that casing the same all around and spend my fiddly factor in making a piece that ran the entire length of the face trim to glue on the back that I could either block plane , belt sand or random orbital w/ 80grit and violas ! Home owner would never see it and it was all magnificent. Oof , autocorrect …
Seems like it’d be more important to make sure there’s the same 1-1/8th reveal on the window rather than lining seems up with the welds. If anything, the home owner will see the reveal more than a tiny weld. But that’s just me🤷♂️ looks super good though👍
Your making it way harder than it has to be,just measure your window and make the outside of your frame the same as the window,make the frame on a table ,pin it in the opening and fill with door and windows foam