i used to be frightened of the seeming complexeties of auto electrics but now i take it on as personal challenge to know all i can. you are a huge help and even an inspiration. thankyou.
I been on the floor as a Mechnaic for a long time and I tell you, you have something, I was missing and that is, good knowledge and concept for electrical systems, thanks for your help
Millions of videos on RU-vid about this. Been frantically watching many and end up confused as f$&k. This one was clear, to the point and made a hell of a lot of sense. Good job sir!
You sound really knowledgeable and I'm having a tough time getting someone to understand what my car is doing. It's making a hissing sound in the dash like wires are shorting out but nothing is really happening to my electronics. Except that the Bluetooth part of blutooth/Satellite enabled radio hasn't always worked since i for it 7 yrs ago, but this is first I'm hearing very faint, but constant sounds like wires are touching and shorting out in my dash on driver's side. 😮
The magnetic field you described as "ghost" voltage when wires in close proximities in the same harness become active from multiple components getting activated is a good mental visual for positive shorts.
Obviously a reason why im here today lol..... I have someone with a 1996 Isuzu Kb260 pick up truck..... Truck all of a sudden didnt wana start.... It cranks but theres no spark.... After checking everything from head to toe i noticed that when i remove the negative battery cable and connect the multimeter to negative terminal of the battery and the other to the chassis it shows a reading of 10V..... Which made me confirm that somewhere a positive wire is shorted to ground..... Finding that short is a nightmare..... When i remove the main ignition fuse the voltage reading drops to 7.5V and when i remove another certain fuse the voltage reading drops even further to 2.8V without the negative cable even connected to the battery....... Now the even more tricky part is when i completely remove the battery from the car it still show a voltage reading between some points on the ignition and ignition coil...... I suspect the ignition coil either faulty or improperly wired causing backfeeding or something..... This old truck has a whole bunch of wires of which i have no idea which is for which components..... Seems like the distributor is not getting any power because of a short circuit and not giving any power to the spark plugs..... Seems like a tidious task to find that short because it can be anywhere on the car 😢😢😢
An easy way to work on a short is put a light bulb across the fuse holder. When you work on the car you know you found the short when the light switches off.
Your video is very good. I am studying automotive electricity, I hope you will produce many videos about automotive electricity. i am from vietnam , thank you very much.
I have a turbo actuator that I am getting fault codes that it is shorted to positive. I assume the last time the engine came out to do the timing chain, some of the wires got damaged. That or the actuator itself is faulty: what is the best way to find out what is at fault in this scenario?
Every thing he's saying makes sence ,my issue is with my reverse light,I changed the bulb and still not working ,so I checked the fuse chamged the fuse and it blew straight away ,I did that 3 times , so where would I start checking
After re-connecting the negative wire to my car's battery there was a large spark and now I have a no crank no start situation. I thought I must've shorted the fuel pump relays (my car has 2) or the MFI relay because the pump doesn't' prime after reconnecting the battery and turning the key, but after bench testing all 3, they seem to be working just fine. Would the next thing to check be the wires going directly into the fuel pump? Any help would be appreciated - I am so lost and frustrated
My car shorted out on me. I have a distributor leak and it went to alt then all that electricity went to my alt fuse and melted it. Replaces my alt and as well as the fuses. Ever since I did that, every time I turn the key my 7.5a ignition fuse blows when I turn it over. I ain’t got money to spend on a mechanic rn, anything would help.
Dear i have toyota land crousir 2004 4.7l and i have short in fuse ... when i replace the fuse direct short come again and its effect to window and ac control also fog light and release gear from P position i cannot release use the brack it shoud user manual release bottom near gear .???? What should i do ???
My 2006 explorer keeps blowing a fuse and burning up coil packs also. Have replaced 3 times. Guessing it's a ground somewhere. How do I find it if that's what it is. Need someone's help to put me in right direction
I have no power at ign-e fuse at fuse box under hood n truck (1997 chevy pick v-6 ) dose not start. i can jump it n starts right up. I chk the pins wear the 10 amp ign-e fuse gos n test light shows up green meaning ground but fuse not blown. How can i figure no power issue? Wouldnt fuse blow if its power n grounding?
i was wondering if an ohm reading to body ground is normal ?....from the fuse connection to ground....i think my entire fuse box is messed up or a main wire with no fuse is grounded partly..maybe i will pull a fuse on my other car and see
I realised after I purchased my BA XR6 about 5 months ago that it had been....electrically r@ped. Excuse the phrase but there is literally no other way to describe the disgusting state of the wiring harness. Modifications had come and gone as people had purchased and sold the vehicle over time and 'easiest route possible' appears to have been taken with the install of EVERYTHING ...EVER. I have permanent scarring (lol) on my back from being upside down (Head in footwell, feet on headrest) followiing wires trying to decipher WHAT THE ACTUAL f people have done. My DTCs were changing daily...hourly even.. Now that 99 percent of the insanity has been repaired I only had 1 fault left to tackle and that was one I couldnt work out, a short to ground but wasnt blowing any fuses. After watching this video I now realise whats going on, its happening BEFORE the fusebox. Thank sweet baby Jesus for your great vid, you have saved me a great deal of time (which an auto electrician would have too, but I like doing things myself). Sub added, cheers.
Learned more here in ten mins than a whole lifetime of reading text books, electricity always goes the easiest route when under load, been scratching my head as to why i was getting volts but the circuit wouldn't work, now I know, thank you so much!
This is the video i've been looking for. You obviously understand how electronics work versus some of the car guys who don't understand and just show how to do parasitic draw tests. Hopefully I can find my short now!
Your very good at explaining things. The editing is flawless and I love the white board of knowledge. I'm good at mechanics but circuits still challenge me, this helps a lot buddy!
Always make sure the right size fuse is in there as well. I had a lady go through 2 condenser fans on a dodge. Someone had a put a 15 amp where a 30 amp went. So as the fan hit high. It blew the fuse.
So how do we fix it. HELP! A live wire(12v) from my obd2 touched a ground and from the video I think I have a ( short to ground? ) fuse ketp popping then after 5 new fuses it stopped popping. But not my obd2, dome light, car remote wont lock or open doors are not working properly...
I appreciated the way you show how to test a short circuit on continuity. But the approach seems for people already knew and experience what you have learned. If someone never test, experience and gain the knowledge that you does, that would be a challenge for them.
I short my car and my dome light,, door lock and heater is no power i check all the fuses they all good but the 10amp and 7.5amp didnt light up when i run a test light what is the problem with this,,
Thanks for your tuto i've Audi C6 won't crank, starter will engage if i jump wired and start the engine normally, but will not engage with its relay i replaced 4X relays but all the same, vcds says 50 short to ground, also 50 short to plus,?? i disconnected 50(+) that going to starter solenoid and short is gone, if i replace wire, short will back. So starter it self has continuing 50(+) to its body(-), is that normal?? if not i tested three 3X Audi used starter and has same continuing 50(+) to body(-), i got NUTS, PLEASE HELP...thanks in advance
question I have a short that keeps blowing the fuse to my ODBII port in a 2005 Pontiac vibe ...if I change the fuse it will be OK for a few days (2-3) then the fuse will pop again, I do notice when this happens because the check engine light will turn on I found out it was the ODBII port when I tried to connect the odb2 diagnostic tool and realize it wasn't working...any help I'm stumped. ..thxs
I just tested every mini blade fuses in my car (didnt test the j-case and cartridge ? Style fuses All the mini blade fuses gave back a reading of .1 :( Whats wrong with my car I did an electrical event take place a few years ago. Something failed in the alternator and i ended up having to replace the tcm ecm, 80 main, and all the fuses that were wired back to the 80main the 100main didnt blow or it didnt visually appeared blown Using a klien cl800 digital clamp meter ori guess A dmm ? Vehicle is a 2002 infiniti g20
One, I have a problem, I changed the wheel hub and rear abs sensor of my car and I have two light bulbs on the abs and ESP traction control board, and I found when I put the tester on my car it gave open circuit/short circuit to b+, right? what would this mean, what could it be
How would I go about finding a short to voltage in a vehicle ? On my EGR plug there is voltage between the egr signal wire and both ground wires someone told me this means there is a short to voltage and that there should be no voltage between those wires. My error code is showing p0406 egr sensor circuit a high .
My all fuses are ok but battery is loosing 11 volt while checked with multimeter i tried the fuse trick scanner is showing headlamp circuit have a ground short
I there a ground that goes to the alternator.i asking because I just put a motor in the truck and I am not getting any,but when I hook the battery up my headlights come on.vut no start.
Not all multimeters are autoranging, if you are looking for a fault and the resistance is outside the selected range, you'll not get a reading either....
Not true in all aspects, I just got out of my car to wash it could smell electric smell, opened the trunk, the wires were so hot could not touch them even started to melt together
Great video! Thank you for taking the time out of your day to do this tutorial. The cutaways to the white board and the comments/further explanation re: resistance in the circuits, as well as sharing what you have found to be the most common types of shorts, etc., was really helpful!
Yes, a great video but one thing you have wrong in your diagram. The switch is always on the positive side of the circuit not the negative and the fuse is always on the positive side other wise if there is a short it would burn up the positive wire/cable. The exception is a door jamb switch or some similar switch but that switch is just suppling the ground to complete the circuit in those cases. The fuse is usually located close to where the positive wire connects to the junction box/terminal/battery positive. The order of location in a circuit is 1-battery positive/ 2-fuse/ 3-switch/ 4-load circuit such as light bulb, motor, heat element, electronics, ect. This way you are always protecting everything downstream of the fuse in case of a short.
I got a 2007 trailblazer thats blowing the acc and the lighter fuse but only when my wife's oxygen machine is plugged in. There are two separate fuses for these circuits. It only blows which ever its plugged into either acc or lighter. We ran the machine for months no problem at All now it blows the fuses. Phone chargers don't blow the fuses. We exchanged the machine for a new one still blows fuses. Im at a loss for what it could be. I've changed the sockets still blows em.
Going to do some diagnosing as to why my 15amp fuse keep blowng for my 2004 Nissan Xterra. Odometer lights, p,R,D lights are out and the same goes for the lights for the ac, fan speed and the direction of where the air travels to. Front, front and to your feet, etc. this helps narrow down my search. Will start doing this sometime this week
KNOWLEDGEABLE Ratchets and Wrench 👍 for sharing it Take care and have a great day KNOWLEDGEABLE Ratchets and Wrench From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
Okay so, I know I fucked some up... But I don't know what, I touched the two wires that are for the purge solenoid' and now it runs really rich sounds like a damn stock car. And ideas people?
Great video!!! I am helping my dad find a short in his 61 Chevy car. It does not really contain any negative wires to any of the things like tail lights interior lights or dashlights. Which are all out. (Since it keeps blowing a fuse). It simply uses the body of the vehicle as the ground. I can't find any breaks in any of the wires. Is it best to start checking each wire with one end on the body of the vehicle and the other end of the multimeter at the end light bulb wire? And repeat this for every light that is out? And make sure there is no Continuity, correct?
Great video. My issue is my airbag clock spring keeps shorting out. I’ve replaced it twice in the past year and it just shorted out again. No fuses are blown, but I know it’s bad because I have the exact same symptoms as before. Once I replace it they all go away until it stops working again? Any ideas on how to troubleshoot this would be greatly appreciated 🙏 Thank you
Trying to find a short I’m my sons 2006 Corolla. Tail light/dash light fuse blows as soon as you turn the lights on. Replaced all bulbs and checked wires. Still can’t find the short??
I'm wondering what's the best fuse to pull and test connector in the ECU box for 02 sensor faulty trouble codes, and if I could damage the box shaped fuses by pulling on them wrong. How do you check a gray box fuse, since they're not like other fuses u can see if they're blown
We have a 07 rondo and of late the back brake kept blowing the fuse, then the cyclops light stopped working and the mechanic just disconnected the cyclops light altogether so i could drive it. Now the rear windshield wiper stopped working, next the front windshield wiper defroster stopped working, the interior light does not come on, and just recently the rear defroster button started clicking when i turn it on do i quickly turn it off again as I’m afraid every fuse is going to blow. Its snow season here soon so wondering if you have any insight what may be causing all this. Also is the fuses near the driver door connected/different from relay under the hood. Thanks!
So I checked the plug with multimeter. Plug has 3 slots. OL on both the green and red slots. The black slot shows a low reading? What does this mean. My fans can't coming on in the car. When giving direct power to the fans one works and one doesn't? They both have fan control modules. Wire harness is 3 slot power to fan from fan control is 2 slot?
Hey W&W Can You Help, I'm having ground sent while engine is cold to normally active Circuit when engine is hot and running the Cooling fans when Engine is running at cold temp and again when Ignition is turned off for about 2mins. ECT works fine, I tested it and the Temp gauge works as well. I have 5V Reference at the ECT Connector. I don't know why I'm having this ground sent to the bottom right pin of My Fan Cont #1 Relay. 05 Chevy Impala 3.8L Vid Of Issue: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Kml_ODJKVIU.html
I have no turn signals or emergency flashers, was testing using a test light hooked it to flasher hot to do blue wire on turn signals. When this hooked up it starts to blink with test light hooked up. Why is that what's it saying it might need? Maybe ground or short to ground idk. Thanks enjoy your videos
My car is currently in workshop..!!! It was going off sometimes when you start moving from a traffic signal, and we found out the EFI fuse was blown and it happened again after I replaced the fuse, but not right away after it was replaced. The car is at a workshop for past two days and they are saying that the problem would be a wire that has lost it's insulation somewhere which occasionally touches the body of the car when the car is running and that would result in a fuse failure, and they couldn't yet find the wire in past two days. If someone can help me resolve this issue. It would be a great help. At least a way to find the wire or if the fuse is blowing due to some other reasons? By the way, my car is Toyota echo 2002 model.
So I had an interesting problem happen recently. I installed a new AC unit in my car and not even a day later, the circuit board in the AC unit had a hole burnt into it. I checked my AC fuses and relay and neither of them were blown. Does that mean that a problem occurred before the fuse box and relay box closest to the battery? The AC was also off when it happened.
Hi I have a question. I have a 95 gmc jimmy 4.3l v6 with a vortec engine. I have been having some issues with rough idol. It also has been backfiring from in the Throttlebody . As well as from the exhaust an it’s been hesitant while accelerating an at driving seeds. I replaced the distributor cap and rotor as well as camshaft position sensor. Plugs an Warriors as well as ignition coil. I also replaced the crankshaft position sensor. In doing so I noticed. That the wire harness was old an wires had been arcane do to bare wires touching together. So I cut old wires an connecter an replaced it with new one. After doing that now my truck just turns over but doesn’t start. Also I to a look at my Fuses an the fuse to the ECM was blown. Replaced it with new one. An truck still won’t start. It ran before I replaced the wire harness an crankshaft position sensor. But now no start. If you help please. Thank you
Exactly happened to my civic. Accidently had a short and now the igps oil fuse doesnt have power. Didnt blow the fuse and check engine light is on. How to check where is the short?
please!!! I notice my harness for O2 sensor was near a radiator hose very hot ., to the point of the plastic protection melt., I cleaned and put a new electric tape cover with a plastic hose and separate from the the radiator hose with a zip clamps and WALA 2 days later code P135 o2 fault ., I change it and the code come back again . Question.!!! it is Possible the this wires are bad after being expose to a extreme hot hose . because they looks perfectly fine to the point you not even can see the copper ., also i dont know were is the fuse for BANK 1 SENSOR 1 in mustang 2010 gt
Ratchets and Wrenches. My ignition fuse burned out while driving and car would not start. Could'nt even jump my car. It's currently @ Shop. They were able to restart Car but within a minute ignition fuse burned and car died out. Any idea What's going on?
I got pissed so I jumped the fuse and heated up the wire that had the short. Melted the jacket and then I knew what one it was. Now I fixed the short and now I'm all good. LOL Terrible way to do it but it worked!!
My car my home to inside dash does not work just the dash the tack don't work if he's amateur don't work nothing works on this what will be causing but runs good turn signals brake lights and all that
Hello can you please help me. Recently i replace my o2 sensor because have check engine light and the code is p0141 so i replace it after a few minutes of driving engine light comes on again the error code is p0138 which is again in the o2 sensor. Whats is problem with that? Im hopping you can give me some ideas to diagnose it properly
Hello how can I get in contact with you brother I have a few cars that need some work done and could definitely use your help on those could you hit me back ASAP please also I hit you on your Facebook page as well as your instagram as well thanks
Hey.. i connected a 12 v day time running lights to both my car headlights about a month ago.. they were working just fine until yesterday they randomly went out.. (both headlight and DRLs). After a couple minutes checking all the fuses, i found two fuses which are blown (15 amps). after checking the owners manual, I've came to conclusion that they are connected to the highlights. I replaced the fuses with another 15 amp fuse and when i turned on the lights (engine was off). They suddenly went out, i replaced them once again and took off the DRLs and they went once again.. is it possible this might be a short circuit, or the switch is burnt out?
Use a 30 amp cube relay. Use the headlight circuit as you source wire. Run a load wire off the battery with the proper fuse protection. As you are overloading or under volt the headlight circuit.
rule of thumb to not screwing up and wasting your time is this ...never put anything on a car that the factory does not account for....that includes headers etc.......if u look at the pain in the ass problems they run into you will know what i mean....just don't do it
