Car Wiring Repair: Ultimate Guide to Finding, Testing and Fixing a Wiring Fault 

Where do you find those pin wire remover unlocking key tools and the name their known as ? I have Audi Q7 3.6L engine and I'm working on it myself. I also would like to know how do you or can we use our VCDS software to perform the ECU diagnostic test on it if so how do I carry it out step by step thank you.

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Oh that why he looks familiar 😂😂

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Ever come to north dakota don't it's cold and my car has been in a shop for 2 fn months over a dam wire a wire, my mechanic is a ass hole he works on big business vehicles so little old me doesn't matter,having 2 special needs children and spending almost 10 grand on the car and paying fools to charge me 500.00 5 times and stilllllll no car 2 dam months 😢dam sorry for all the negative but it's hard without a car

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Hi. We are glad you liked the video! We have a video that touches on how to diagnose a faulty injector here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jF9atOqq3Mc.html, however we do plan on making a more comprehensive guide on ignition coils and injectors at some point in the future!

Hi. We're glad you enjoyed the video! The terminal tension/pin tension tools can be hard to come by. Some suppliers sell these specific tools: www.autotechelectrical.com/ but if you are unable to source these, then a good alternative is getting terminal test lead attachments for your multimeter which will do the same job: www.hubitools.com/en/catalog/diagnostic-test-lead-set~0389d3b3-3acb-2bce-9ac0-39eabe1ce34f However these usually come in big kits which makes them fairly expensive. Finally, if those two options aren't for you, you can always buy replacement terminals/pins for the specific connector you're testing and use those! Hope that helps.

@@Ecutestinglimited Appreciate this thanks again.

Hi. We're glad you enjoyed the video! The drag tools can also be called terminal tension/pin tension tools but they can be hard to come by. Some suppliers sell these specific tools: www.autotechelectrical.com/ but if you are unable to source these, then a good alternative is getting terminal test lead attachments for your multimeter which will do the same job: www.hubitools.com/en/catalog/diagnostic-test-lead-set~0389d3b3-3acb-2bce-9ac0-39eabe1ce34f However these usually come in big kits which makes them fairly expensive. Finally, if those two options aren't for you, you can always buy replacement terminals/pins for your vehicle and use those! Hope that helps.

@@Ecutestinglimited brilliant thanks for taking the time to reply in your busy day.

@@the_retired_mechanic No problem at all. Let us know if you need anything else!

Yeah, a wire might seem good but can short or create open loop when moved. Ideally, if your multimeter beeps when shorted, you can try shake the cables and connectors a bit and listen for interrupted beeping.

Hi. You can get these attachments as part of a multimeter accessory kit from automotive diagnostic equipment suppliers such as Pico Technology: www.picoauto.com/products/clips-and-adaptors/backpinning-probe-set Alternatively, and depending on budget, you can get the needle/pin probes on their own from online retailers like Ebay or Amazon.

Hi. If done with good technique, i.e a good strong contact is made and heatshrink is applied, then using crimp sleeves should not create excess resistance in the CAN bus system.

@joyous6696, It would depend on circuit design, some are 12v some are 5v ref

Hi. Yes, if you remove the affected wire's terminals (de-pin) from both connectors then the wire should be isolated from the circuit. Plug both connectors back in and test for continuity between battery ground or battery voltage depending on which you suspect it is shorted to. Hope that makes sense!

@@Ecutestinglimited it does thank you. I was just trying to suss out if you were doing it differently with them still connected. Electrics are not everyone’s friend, especially mine. I came across your videos and enjoyed your explanation and theory. Instant subscriber thank you.

Hi, very good question! Yes the multimeter will produce a reading even without being directly connected to a negative. This is because in order for current to flow through the wire, the circuit must be complete by being connected to a ground point. While you're not directly touching a ground point with your multimeter probes, the circuit itself is grounded through its connection to the battery's negative terminal or another grounding point. This shared ground ensures that all components in the circuit have a common reference point for electrical potential. By placing one probe at the start of the wire (or one side of the component) and the other probe at the end (or the other side), you're measuring the voltage difference between these two points. This difference is the voltage drop, which occurs due to resistance in the wire or component. The multimeter doesn't need to "know" they share the same ground in an explicit sense; it simply measures the difference in electrical potential between the two points you're testing. In the video, we have shown a simplified wiring diagram only showing the 12v power supply wire to the alternator, whereas for this circuit to be complete there would also be a ground wire going back to battery negative or a ground point on the vehicle (in most alternators this would be the casing of the alternator itself which is attached to the chassis). Hope this helps!

@Ecutestinglimited Of course. Thank you . Great videos by the way .I'm a spark of 30 years myself but working with single and 3 phase AC is a different ball game no where near as technical as ur game ,and I think my knowledge apart from using a multi meter is a hindrance more than a help when it comes to cars.That said I've never understood Canbus until I watched ur video today.and it's very much the same as testing and fault finding a ring main . Thanks again mate

Thanks for your suggestion, we will look into this in the future!

Modern vehicles can use a variety of cable types, however resistive types are normally for specialised components and the majority of the vehicle's electrical system uses standard copper wiring in which a properly soldered joint shouldn't cause any problems. However, it is always worth consulting your vehicles repair manual or schematic to ensure you are following their guidelines.

@Dilmohittt, What are the stored dtcs?

You can carry out the testing methods highlighted in this video using either an analogue or digital multimeter. However, a digital meter is always preferable as it offers more precision and reliability in results, especially when testing circuits dynamically such as during voltage drop testing. Also keep in mind that with analogue multimeters you will need to select the correct range when carrying out your tests to prevent damage to the multimeter. Hope this helps!

It should be 0.026Ω per meter of wire, apologies and thanks for spotting that!

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Hi. We have actually recently completed a video on diagnosing CAN bus faults here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-fZMNzKpCGfc.html The video goes over some basic principles of the CAN bus network, however, as your system includes a gateway module, the diagnostic tests at the OBD2 port may not be the same. The fault will likely lie with either the gateway module or the alternator (generator), so you will need to unplug the alternator to see if the fault disappears. If it doesn't, then test the integrity of the communication wires between the two. Finally check the gateway module's power (sometimes fused) and grounds. Hope this helps!

@@Ecutestinglimited hello...i unbluged The alternator wire...and all The erorrs disapear....ca u tell me that u check next?should i duble check The alternator regulator ....install The corect Code ?

That indicates the alternator is faulty. We have done a video on diagnosing faults with the alternator here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gpFlPU2HQkY.html but as you have said, it is likely a fault with the voltage regulator. Depending on the model of alternator you have, the regulator can be replaced without needing to replace the whole alternator, however we would recommend getting this confirmed by a qualified mechanic who can advise you on your specific vehicle.

Broken wire e.g. bad connection.

@@halweilbrenner9926 no .... Its happening in Toyota Glanza and Taisor.

We are saying 'nought' which means 0. So it will be 0 to 0.6.

@@Ecutestinglimited awesome, thanks boss

Hi. We have answered this in another comment but here is the reply: "The drag tools can also be called terminal tension/pin tension tools but they can be hard to come by. Some suppliers sell these specific tools: www.autotechelectrical.com/ but if you are unable to source these, then a good alternative is getting terminal test lead attachments for your multimeter which will do the same job: www.hubitools.com/en/catalog/diagnostic-test-lead-set~0389d3b3-3acb-2bce-9ac0-39eabe1ce34f However these usually come in big kits which makes them fairly expensive. Finally, if those two options aren't for you, you can always buy replacement terminals/pins for your vehicle and use those! Hope that helps."

@@Ecutestinglimited Thanks.

You have a parasitic drain then 👍🏼

If not fixed - Check battery terminal connectors and make sure they have a full connection, small terminals or loose connectors and be fixed with cutting and rewiring a new connector, or using a lead terminal shim to fill the gap. Used that to fix my Lexus ES300 parasitic drain. It's a good place to start.