How to diagnose and fix a slipping sailboat line clutch

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Sailboat line clutches are one-way devices that when closed allow the line to be pulled in, but when tension is reversed they seize the line in tension. This allows sails to be set, then the winch can be used on other lines. As line clutches age the cam and base plate develop a smooth wear pattern, and the internal spring loses tension. Then when lines are replaced, especially if the new diameter is smaller, the new more slippery line is not secure in the clutch.
This is a real world example of a repair of a Spinlock XTS clutch manufactured before 2003. Even so, Spinlock came through with upgraded ceramic cams and base plates specifically designed for use with slippery high modulus lines, in this case Warpspeed II.
I am so impressed that Spinlock built on their winning design, not requiring any change in hole placement and continuing to offer replacement parts for over two decades beyond the sale date. I only wish auto manufacturers would follow the same ethical guidelines.
Information provided here is offered for free, but with no guarantee as to accuracy or safety. DIY repair in any form requires acceptance of risk, both from the perspective of the boat and personal injury. Do not proceed with any DIY repair unless you are comfortable accepting those risks. Any misadventure you encounter when attempting to repair your boat is on you.

Опубликовано:

3 окт 2024

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Комментарии : 16

@mgevirtz Год назад

This video is a great resource, thanks. Generally I am dubious of clutches, some of my friends like them a lot. I just imagine more holes and a new failure mode. I like the idea of being able to multiply the lines that each winch can handle. I had not thought of that, amazingly enough. I also did not think to ask if they were serviceable. Clearly they are! Or at least some brands. Thanks again.

@SVImpavidus Год назад

We did our winches and clutches a few weeks ago. They just needed a good clean and lubricating. Our clutches are through bolted to a tapped aluminium plate in the layup. God knows how thats going to come out when they need to be removed. Great video, Sail Safe mate. Ant & Cid

@spelunkerd Год назад

That's an excellent point, the first step should always be cleaning debris from those teeth. It didn't work at all for my boat but it's a quick fix. Those teeth walk a fine line, since if they are too abrasive the line won't last long at all. I'm surprised that even after decades of use my line cover was chafe free at the clutch. I bought the new line a little longer, and I specifically used a knot rather than an eye splice for the shackle so as the line ages I can reverse the line to shift the high chafe areas to get another few years of life.

@apackwestbound5946 Год назад

More superior content by a master craftsman and mechanic. You continue to put out some of the best instructional content on RU-vid. Thank you! -Respectfully

@spelunkerd Год назад

Oh, thank you for your kind remarks.

@shawnmrfixitlee6478 Год назад

Great share , I have worked on boats a bunch but I leaned from you ..Thanks !

@advancedleveldiagnostics Год назад

Wow really cool, Thanks for sharing!

@RayRay-ov7uw Год назад

Thanks for sharing

@deenaaly7964 3 месяца назад

Can you please share the part number for the skid plate you had previously replaced?

@ylemoine1 Год назад

Thanks for sharing. I’m about to upgrade a 3-clutch to a new 4-clutch and although I won’t be pulling them apart to service, seeing how they’re put together will help in their removal and reinstall. Mine are screwed into a threaded backing plate, so when installing and sealing the screws I have little option than to turn the screw heads which is less than ideal for the sealant. My plan is to use standard 3M 4200 and work quickly. I am concerned about having too much squeezout inside the clutch that will imped operation. The OEM boat manufacturer doesn’t appear to have applied any to the screw heads inside the clutch, so I’ll figure out sealing better when I see how the 3-clutch comes off. Any suggestions?

@spelunkerd Год назад

In that case I'd be inclined to also put sealant on top of the bolt head after it is tightened up. Mine is countersunk so much that rainwater can form a little lake on top of the bolt head, so filling that void will help reduce flow. Presumably the manufacturer made the fit so exacting that the volume of rainwater penetrating through is already very small. Sealing the upper neck will similarly reduce flow. You may not want to seal the very bottom, since any water that gets deep inside would be better to drip through entirely and evaporate rather than being trapped against the wood core.

@ylemoine1 Год назад

@@spelunkerd thanks 🙏, very helpful … now to get cracking and getting it done.

@fiddleswithbikes Год назад

@@spelunkerd In my opinion, silicone sealant is too weak for this job and is prone to peeling away from the surface in the future. (It will also prevent other, better sealants from adhering from now to eternity.) My choice here would be butyl rubber. It's good for 30 years generally, and both stretches if there's any flex, and if there's ever separation (unlikely), it will re-adhere. Just as important is to chamfer the hole at the deck to effectively create a little O-ring with your sealant. Ideally, you also want to drill the holes oversize, fill with epoxy, and re-drill to bolt size, creating a structural and waterproof seal. A shortcut would be to at least soak that hole with penetrating or plain epoxy to waterproof it a little better.

@spelunkerd Год назад

@@fiddleswithbikes Those are excellent points, especially your remark about drilling the hole large, refilling with epoxy, and redrilling. I believe the holes in this boat were done that way at the factory when they were originally installed in 2002. I had a close look at the holes, and you can't see any wood inside the barrel of the holes, and there is sealer coating of the wood underneath as well. If I had drilled new holes I would have done exactly that.