When I pulled the back of the freezer off like you did at 5:48 and looked at the evaporator, it was completely iced over, or snowed over with ice crystals the consistency of a snow cone. The fridge is making that loud groaning humming noise you described.. so just to be clear, are you saying I need to replace the evaporator fan, or could it be something else??? The temp in the refrigerator (not the freezer part) is way less cold than it used to be. I have to turn it up to 8 out of 9 just to keep the food cold enough! Something's slowly going out.. but what???!! 🤔
That ice needs to be defrosted first, so unplug the fridge, try to store vulnerable contents somewhere cold, and wait. You can speed defrost with steam from a kettle. Once all the ice is gone, probe that drain tube to look for blockage, vacuum the water away, and plug the fridge back in. Then look for the two fans, the condenser fan and the evaporator fan. Make sure they are working properly, the fan blades are spinning and it is moving air. Most fridges have a defrost heater element that can go bad, it is usually a simple resistance heater with a fuse. Find the circuit drawing somewhere inside the fridge, and find and identify the defrost element and its fuse. Defrost is a cycle that happens every few days, where fans turn off, the heater turns on, and the ice is melted. The timer for defrost can go bad, and old school fridges have mechanical timers that can get stuck in defrost mode. Your circuit drawing should clarify what design your fridge has.
There are small O rings that hold the jets in place. You can remove them to clean the area more aggressively but if the O rings are holding the jets secure you can leave them in place. The O rings would need to be replaced if the jets are loosely held. Interestingly, many aftermarket seal kits for this carb do not have those tiny O rings.
This guy sounds like Brett "The Hitman" Hart.. He must know what he's doing. He's most likely the best there is, the best there was, and the best there ever will be at fixxin' fridges!!!
12:50 hi, i have a spare door lock for my Saab93 that I've cleaned and reflowed the pcb solder points (it originally gave false alarms)i want to test if my repair is good by plugging it in and hanging it there without fitting,hence saving time, do think this would be ok to try? Thanks
@spelunkerd you are tryin to fix problem where there is no problem . The lack of clearance comes from the carbonization around the valves where they sit and not from the shims since the shims didn't get worn out from the original specs. The way you did it ,you will only end up with tighter valves clearance once the engine hot ! Kawasaki manual is wrong , they just want you to fix a problem that's not really the problem so your engine doesn't last ... think about it and let me know if you understand .
I love remarks that challenge conventional wisdom. What you're really trying to do is regulate and normalize the force holding the valve against the seat. Hydraulic lifters do that by applying exacting force directly, and when clearance changes the lifter automatically expands to compensate, so force is unchanged. Old style designs like this one use a spring and a shim. When the spring is more compressed, it applies greater force. As you say, over time carbon builds up on the edge of the valve and the seat, moving the valve slightly up, which compresses the spring more to apply greater force against the localized crud on the valve lip. A little of that might be OK, crushing the carbon to wet dust, but if the force is too high you could get damage to the valve lip because all of that force is aimed at a tiny spot. Of course the flip side of that is the valve that is held off the seat by the cam if the clearance is too small, reducing compression. So there's a sweet spot you need to be on. In the original design of the internal combustion engine, valve clearance failure was identified as a common cause of engine death. That led to the strategy of replaceable shims. There are many anecdotal stories here of poor valve clearance on the Vulcan leading to engine failure. So, I try not to question decisions made by engineers who designed and built these magical sleds.
Thanks man! It's really helpful! But now I'll find a number of seal. Last time i take pinion seal for 9.25, but it was wrong. (( now i can't find right number for axle seal ((
Another way to think about this is to calculate average power consumption for the entire year. $65.46/y * 1 kWh/$0.141 * 1y/365.25d * 1d/24h = 52.9W. So, energy consumption is equivalent to a 53W light bulb running continuously. Pretty good!. Even though peak compressor inrush current is going to spike up, once the motor produces back emf the current draw drops dramatically. These numbers were likely much higher when we had many people opening the fridge door, ha ha.
Very nice video, thanks for posting. The pump you used in this video has a machined aluminum impeller which make it a high flow pump. I realize it's been 11 years but would you know the brand and number of this pump? Thanks!
Go out there brother this is 2024 almost July I have a 2006 800 Drifter with just 5500 miles and I think it's very similar to yours as far as working on it
Pro-tip: Don't etch the bolts while they're inside the differential housing unless you wanna fill it with abrasive metal chips that blow all your seals immediately.
I just bought an 03 Silverado and the low coolant sign come on the dashboard filled it but doesn’t maintain the level even after being filled. Is it normal? I drove it for like an hour after that everything was normal and there isn’t any signs of leaks either. The day before tho it did overheat on me and started spilling coolant. Any suggestions? Thank you
There's almost always a cause for loss of coolant, most often something relatively easy to fix like a leaking radiator, leaking hose connection, or a water pump that is leaking through seals. Rarely the problem is more serious, like a head gasket leak, cracked cylinder head, or internal leaking through an oil cooler in some models. The important thing is not to let the vehicle overheat. When coolant leaks out, you get trapped air pockets in the system which can cause severe overheating and secondary damage. After a major leak you need to "burp" the cooling system to remove trapped air pockets. I show how to do that in several videos that are listed in a cooling system playlist on my channel. Good luck!
Please Dave... My speedometer doesnt work anymore.. i am going to the shop tomorrow too see what the hell is going on.. If i unscrew the cable in both ends and turn it, it moves correctly, but if i put it back in the rear wheel and leave it off at the top and then pushing the bike for a few feet, the cable does not turn around at the top, so the shop thinks its about the gear in the rear wheel... is it easy to fix or what? I really miss a video of how to fix problems like this.. i have seen your speedo cable video, but since i think my cable is fine, i still have a problem.. and my speedo doesnt work at all atm.. went for a short ride today and NO numbers moved on the speedo, not the pin to see how fast i am going, its just at 0 mph, and the miles ridin in total is just standing still, so atm it doenst registre any miles, which is also very bad... what to do? Cheers from Denmark!
That's not a problem I've experienced. On the distal end of the cable is a fork, which meshes with matching gears internally. My cable was actually broken, which as you say would be an easy fix. If the mating screw connection seems fine and the distal end fails to spin when you rotate the rear wheel, you'll have to disassemble the hub to see what's wrong. Please stop by to leave any feedback that others who visit here might appreciate.
As other commenters have said, you are an excellent educator. I cleanout out the bottom coils, and yes they were filthy and fortunately we have a cattail that we use to dust off the ceiling fans, using a vacuum cleaner hose kept all the dust and dirt from flying everywhere. The compressor was running fine, the bottom fan motor was also running fine. The entire frig was running fin until a few weeks ago when it started to have symptoms where the freezer wasn't keeping ice and everything started to defrost on one side of the freezer. After cleaning the coils I took out the back panel of the freezer compartment and found a large block of ice that completely surrounded the thermostat. After five minutes with the hair dryer I cleaned everything up and plugged it back in. The back panel is now freezing cold. We're in a wait and see hold for a few more weeks. The only thing it could be in the freezer thermostat.
These systems use a common ground, which will be the wire with the huge wire nut that all the solenoids trace to. Those wires usually have the same color, usually black. You place one multimeter probe onto the inside of that wire nut, and the second probe onto the second wire that leads to the solenoid. So, you're measuring voltage drop across the solenoid. Turn the zone on at the controller and measure AC voltage between those two probes. The most accurate way to assess wiring is to get current flowing, which will happen if the solenoid works and the wire route to and from the solenoid is intact. In that case you use the multimeter voltage to decide if there is upstream or downstream resistance causing power loss. If the solenoid doesn't work, you can substitute a load like a headlight bulb designed for 24V AC.
Interesting video Dave! I didn't see the amperage with the compressor running. I would suspect around 10 amps or so. In any event, it's a nice tool to evaluate your voltage, current, wattage, power factor and KwH. Very nice feature where you can plug in your pricing per kWH and see how much your electrical bill will be over a period of time. Keep up the good work and have a great day! 👍
To my surprise, after running for a couple of minutes this little compressor doesn't take a lot of current, although I missed inrush current because it doesn't refresh frequently. As you say I would expect it to be much higher. With compressor and both fans running (fridge lights and motor for ice tray off), it drew only 1.8A, slowly dropping to about 1.4A after a few minutes. It was low enough that I questioned the accuracy of my device, so I used my clamp meter on a single hot wire to verify the finding as accurate. I'm sure it draws more during startup and during the defrost phase when the resistance heater melts evaporator ice.
Great diagnostic Dave and using a simple jumper is the fastest way to check the entire circuit. Great follow-up for folks to prove that the fan switch was bad in a boiling pot of water. Take care and have a great day!
All vehicles these days have pinch points behind the front wheels that are designed for the universal hoists used in repair facilities, so I jack there. That allows me to choose a beefy spot for the jack stands. In my Dodge, the steel frame where it ties into the inboard control arm is perfect. These old vehicles have a classic frame so there are many options. Newer vehicles saved hundreds of pounds of weight and have better defined jack points. The dealer service manual for those vehicles is the best resource.
In a classic car radiator, the exchange of heat happens between air and coolant. In salt water boats, they use a steady stream of ocean water rather than air. To exchange heat between the salt water and the coolant, a heat exchanger plays the same role as a radiator in a car. It allows exchange of heat without letting the two mix chemically. In exclusively fresh water boats and outboard motors, lake water itself is pumped into the engine to cool the cylinders directly, with no heat exchanger. The reason that doesn't work in salt water is galvanic corrosion that eats away at the engine from the inside out.
Hi Terry! For another video that does the same kind of deep dive, Chickanick here on RU-vid did one that adds some more detail. She talks about how the seal kits from Amazon are often missing the correct tiny O rings that hold the jets in place. She said that you don't need to remove or replace those O rings if the jets don't fall out. I left those in .
@@spelunkerdThanks Dave for the added info! I did see her video and it was informative too. It turns out that a Briggs and Stratton rebuild kit from Amazon is $95 and some change. Unbelievable when it’s mostly gaskets. She decided to buy the complete carburetor from Amazon for $40 whereas the one from John Deere is $240. I hope the cheap carburetor will work. Have a great evening.
Good video. I had this issue several years ago on my 2001 Vulcan Classic FI. I now have a new issue that you may have seen. My 1500 fi was having after firing "backfire". I replaced the plugs and it solved the problem. It cruises well until I pull the clutch in and throttle down to down shift and the motor quits. I have Cobra pipes and one of those fuel command modules which I have adjusted into multiple configurations. I have to pull the idle knob out about half way to keep the bike running when sitting. The bike sit for about 2 years without any extensive running. Ran it at times while sitting in the garage but very little riding. I've cleaned the throttle body openings and flaps well. Any ideas?
Hmm, while spelunking that rabbit hole it seems you've disrupted your good lady wife's interior decorating plans, I expect you had something fine to offer as a consolation. Happy father's day and I expect your canines were particularly kind and good to you today. Keep up these fine video demonstrations they have good use value. Was that the summer's sun god off to your right glimpsed at the end?
The coil should have stayed on the back where they rarely needed cleaning. The absolute worst place is on the bottom. My coil is an bottom-mounted, accordion-folded nightmare so you have to empty out the frig & lean it over against a wall to get any proper access to clean them.
Yes. As you point out, comparison is tricky because many providers, including ours, have additional baseline charges added on. Like cell phone charges, you always end up paying more than you expect. In addition, our government provider punishes those who use more energy, ie progressive taxation. As lucrative government income from gasoline dries up, I expect rapidly escalating taxation on electricity to fill the void. Thank you for chiming in!
If I recall correctly there's an O ring on that screw. Turn water off, and unscrew it completely, being careful to not drop the O ring in the grass. If the O ring is missing you could disassemble a normally functioning valve screw to verify it should be in place and get the right size. You can buy inexpensive generic seal kits from Princess Auto, Harbor freight, or Amazon that will likely have one you need. I usually put a dab of silicone paste (not RTV or any paste that dries) onto the seal and threads to prevent leaks. Screw it back in and you should be good.
Good information. Thanks. Yeah, those Kill A Watt meters are worth the money, even for just for the entertainment value of "testing" various appliances and devices around the house. And seeing your prybar just reminded me I had purchased a set of inflatable "air wedge bags" off Amazon with the intention of using it to raise my fridge for cleaning and adjusting to level.
Before taking my hose handle apart (it looks similar to your hose handle) ur video helped me immensely. So I have a lot more info than before viewing ur video. Let’s see how good of a student I am 😂
@@spelunkerd thanks, my bike was running fine and someone noticed my radiator fan wasnt turning on, so i got someome to fix it, all it needed was a new fan switch, well the next day my light came on saying the bike was over heating, its never said that before even with the fan not working. No all i can think to do is chsnge radiator fluid and check the thermostat
@@shanemichaelneal First thing to check is radiator fluid level. Remove the radiator cap with engine cold and be sure that your fluid level is all the way to the top. The technique is called 'burping', where you run the bike with radiator cap off, tip the bike side to side and evacuate all bubbles, run it until the thermostat opens. Then put cap back on and allow bike to cool. The overnight cooling draws more coolant in, to replace trapped air. Make sure the reservoir is full, and that there are no pinholes in the tube connecting reservoir to radiator. Check cap to be sure the seal is OK. I explain the procedure in detail in several videos I did in a playlist of automotive cooling system videos on my channel. Let's hope that it is simply trapped air causing your overheat.
@@spelunkerd i went to drain the radiator fluid, there was no fluid at all, not a single drop. So i ran water through it to get sll the rust out, i filled it with water, then looked for a leak, it looked like a leak on the body around the thermostat, i tried to order a new body and new body upp, but out of stock on the body, so i just odered the body upp, a new o ring, and a new thermostat
You consistently produce some of the very finest educational content available on RU-vid. Your knowledge and experience is extensive and your ability to teach is superb. Thank you,