@@3DPrintFarm Thanks. Just run the first test and it looks like the defaults for my QIDI Shadow were over exposing by a good deal. Does room temperature have an effect? I have my printer in a garage where the south Texas temperature is over 100 degrees.
Garret , thanks for the great video and the method but I have a problem, maybe you can help?! The setup: Anycubic Photon S, Anycubic Plant-based resin green & Chitubox latest version. With your method the ideal time works out at 4,0 sec. exposure time, but in a test print the supports (standard Chitubox settings) are failing... - when I go back to the standard 8 sec. Chitubox exposure time the print and supports are perfect... Your opinion \ suggestion?
I'm having the same problem as Eduard using Elegoo Gray and Prusa supports. I've only been printing a couple of months and this is the first time using the Elegoo and first time trying to change the exposure times from the 'normal' settings. Really enjoy your videos!
@@eduardkompast3063 I have a rather similar issue with my Creality-LD002... I need to have at least 5.5 seconds of exposure if I want the print not to utterly fail:-/
This video single handedly got me past my resin waste angst. I'd never even heard of a validation print! 20-30 minutes to dial in any resin!?! Sold! Thanks a ton for this info.
Also, you should be getting an equal (+/-1) number of dots and holes on the right side of the print. Overexposed more dots, underexposed more holes. This is the easiest test that I have found too.
This is the single most useful explanation and method I have found in weeks! 1.5 months of my Orange 10 not printing a damn thing, solved in a 13min video!
I want to get it as perfect as I can as well but just think about what you are doing. Its AMAZING even when under/over exposed. We've literally gone from not having computers in the home to literally being able to resin print stuff with layers the size of a human hair. How AMAZING is that! :D
great info, long time FDM user (anyone remember solidoodle?). just took the plunge into the goo with a photon mono x. Your videos are giving me all the info i need to hit the ground running before i even get the machine! I love the 3d printing community. Its been super helpful like this since the very earliest days.
This was tremendously helpful! I got some new resin and tried rolling with the same settings as what I was using before. I couldn't find any recommended exposure time from the manufacturer, and I was kind of stumped. This lets me take ownership and solve the problem WITH SCIENCE! Found out my optimum exposure time is about half of what I had been using.
Interesting, this is the fastest calibration test I've thus far seen, even the 'cone of calibration' would take an hour on my printer. I'm defo going to try this method.
I have used to great success this tutorial but also wanted to point out that nearly every blog ive read that has anything to do with resin printer calibration refrences your video as well THANK YOU
Garret - Just wanted to take a second to thank you for your videos. I'm just starting out with my first resin printer (AnyCubic Photon S). I watched a ton of RU-vid videos and was pretty well prepared, but I wanted to let you know that yours have been instrumental in helping me replace my torn FEP (a tragic unboxing mistake), troubleshoot, and get "over the hump" of initial failed prints and getting confidence built up. I was just in the past couple of days thinking about learning about the calibration prints I hear about and then this video shows up in my recommendations, right on time. Again, kudos for helping the hobby and community. Well done and good on ya.
Thank you, thank you, thank you! I started watching this as I have a resin that I haven't used, and was a bit unsure. Turns out this video was with the EXACTA resin I was curious about! Happy printing!
Maaaate! I have tearing my hair out.... Resin is annoying to come by in NZ atm so I have been buying what I can. Was printing at 13sec layers as per supplier instructions....... down to 1.4sec now haha. Thank you!
I finally purchased a resin printer last week after years of sticking to fdm printing, and after days of looking for relevant info this is possibly the most useful video I've seen about resin printing so far. I'm looking forward to checking out the other videos this channel has to offer. SUBSCRIBED.
Thank you, this video really helped me hit the ground running (started in December) and I try to pass on to whoever I can. Made my 3d printing life infinitely less frustrating
When I print validation tiles they always seem to come off the plate and distort. The sides rise so that the tile is slightly cupped or convex. This isn’t an issue for the tests, but it also happens when I print flat objects on the plate. How do I prevent this?
Thank you for sharing this information!! I'm a prop maker and always need different resin properties depending the use and shape of the item, this will be SO helpful when making resin mixtures. 3d printing is such a steep learning curve, I'm slowly getting the hang of it.
Siraya Tech Fast Grey on an ELEGOO Saturn lays down great at 2.5 seconds. The Siraya Tech Fast WHITE on the other hand needs about 8 seconds per layer even though the docs say it should also only need 2.5 Its important to run a validation matrix like this on EACH resin you use. Even if its the same brand and kind but a different color. I keep a spreadsheet that has all the settings for each resin i use in every color i have used. Sure I save them as resin profiles in ChituBox but having a backup document is also a really good practice.
Thank you so much!!!! Easy way to explain how to do the test, I had hours searching how to use the multiple exposure time of the anycubic without any result, but this is simple and even when I need to do different prints to test, is better and more detailed, THANK YOU!!!!!
Bloopers at the end were nice addition.. get a cat ;) Thanks for this great tip! I'd been using the "rook settings" for layer timings which have resulted in great prints and no failures (yet)... but now wonder if this fine tuning would provide even greater detail to my models. This would be the first resin 3D channel that I will be subscribing to after enjoying and learning from your experiences. Many thanks for what you do! Cheers from Nova Scotia, Canada.
Thanks, I was having a lot of problems with my Phrozen sonic mini but it seems that I wasn't reading the validation test correctly everything was radically underexposed. Thanks for going over the different levels of prints on camera ill be recalibrating and hopefully put out some good prints in the near future.
Wow, I have been using the default setting from what the resin said. I did the print that you have shown and I am overexposing it a lot. Thank you for this!!!!
Thank you. I've been somewhat frustrated lately because I have a new mono screen printer and some people say mono screen printers need less exposure time, so I don't know what kind of settings I've been needing for proper settings. Plus I'm used to turning my FDM machines to the best settings I can get them to with each material. This should help a ton and will be the next thing I do.
Yep this solved my issues with my Creality SLA printer! Never trust the settings on the Resin bottle and do this test it will save you a lot of time and hassle
This is incredible info! I have obviously been printing massively over-exposed!! I always wondered why some of my more fine details were "muddy", but as i normally print functional parts, not models it never really caused me many issues!
I now count myself lucky AF. Just got my first resin 3d printer (Voxelab Proxima) and the first print I made was this validation matrix. Default settings in chitubox and using a cheap resin I lucked onto a near perfect print of the matrix, though not quite there. I think my favorite part of this test is because it's so low profile, it prints in minutes. Patience is hard with shiny new toy.
Underexposure or non-leveled build plate are the two things I'm finding are my issues. This is my first week of resin printing which has been crazy fun! However, the blobs of resin in the vat, and the supports hanging off the build plate are the exact issues I've found with recent more complex/larger prints I'm doing.
Ok so I have somw probably staggeringly dumb questions but forgive me because I’ve had a long day: How often do I need to do this calibration? Once a week? Every time the weather is different from the last time? Every time I change out the resin in the vat?
I'm new to printing just a month I was getting great prints Till I started Messing with the resin settings now I'm getting these lines! The test card I'm getting real nice but it's the slider on the right it's ment to be smooth I keep getting them step lines
How do you account for the bottom layer exposure time? My regular exposure time is 2.3 seconds, but my "burn in" layers is 40 seconds for 6 layers - I timed the last few layer exposure times when I printed this, and it was still 8 seconds per layer by the last layer...
Very excellent video! Just yesterday I was trying to print one half of a model car body (the whole thing is too big for the printer), and the supports in the middle stopped forming halfway through the print. I did some adjustments, but I didn't go past the 2.5 exposure time. I'll try your method to see what happens. Interesting enough, despite the missing supports, the body came out fine with no deformed panels. Either which way, this will be helpful in those situations where some files are trickier than others, depending on what's being printed. I did download the matrix .stl and will definitely fine tune this machine (Phrozen Sonic Mini4K). Thanks so much!
Woooohohoho! Hold your horses... The equation is: GOOD RESULT=EXPOSURE + PROPER SUPPORT. So do not blame everything on bad exposure. Though it's the FIRST variable in the equation ;-) But, quite a good test, and I love the support technique!
Really, awesome video and info, priceless! Couldn’t you have gone to 4 seconds exposure? The two points at the middle still didn’t match from my point of view. Thanks a lot for such a great tutorial! 🙏🏼
Downloaded the XP2 Model. Printed it out on my Saturn. It looks much smaller than the one you printed and seems like it's too thin as well. Am I missing something?
I find that running the perfect exposure results in numerous partial fails even with a low lift speed. So I always over expose by 0.1 second (minimum my slicer adjusts exposure by). I don't lose enough detail to matter but partial fails and tears are gone. I can batch print files back to back to back to back all day long and I just scrape them off the build plate, add resin, and press print again. I also run my bottom layer typically at 20 seconds, and try to connect all the rafts of a print. So once I get 1 corner up my scraper just slides under the rest and everything comes off easy peasey.
I'm a new member of your community and I wanted to thank you for the content you post. There's a ton of filament content on YT and trying to find good and helpful content on SLA 3D printers can be difficult. I was wondering if ChituBox supports the Anycubic Photon Zero? It seems like the slicer that the Anycubic Photon Zero comes with isn't as detailed as the program you're using. Can't wait to use your techniques for the next order of resin that's coming in! Thank you for your work and I hope to watch more of your videos!
Just one question: At 3.5s exposure some of the cylinders and text are not there and some of the lines are messed up, and you say that's the higher end of the "sweet spot". So… Does it mean that, instead of trying to make sure that everything prints and overexposing, it is better to set the exposure lower and just avoid printing too thin things?
Brilliant tute! Do you have any tubes showing how to overcome prints that help fix a warp? I have a 4mm cross that I've changed the orientation on multiple times, and post-cured it really slowly but it won't come out flat. Everything looks good but it's coming out of the printer with a slight curve. (I'm new to resin but old to FDM)
I'm pretty new to 3d printing and I've never heard of an exposure calibration test print. I'm certain that will clean up my prints. (My stuff looks over exposed) Great info and THANK YOU for that stl link!
When my Sonic Mini 4K arrived the ring model that came with it printed but it was ugly, not good detail at all. I got them to send me the ChiTuBox settings that they use and the rest of my prints were fine.
As the fall arrived I definitely found that the cooler temp in my garage was no good, all of my prints were failing until I brought it inside, then it was fine.
Awesome video, but I have a question, If you put too much exposure time (obviously it will be basically overexposure layers) you can damage your LCD screen? or the uv lights?
I am having issues with some prints that I have been trying :( Do you use Chitubox for your supports or do you use a 3rd party? I have been having issues with my supports not staying connected to model let alone get any that are as thin as yours! Please help! -TIA
