How to do a Coolant Flush | Schwaben Refill/Air Purge Tool 

Good tip, thanks!

Imma mechanic and did the “wrong way” on a thousand cars no problem tbh that’s jus gonna overflow the expansion tank and make a mess I’ve tried doin that before and u always over fill the system and gotta suck it out

Thats what i was thinking about. I think if you created air by disconnecting on hose at the end of the line the vacuum will be effective but if all lines are closed then vacuum wont drain any water bc simply no air

What do you mean?

@@menaceemceefiend9716 They say to drain all coolant from the system. But then they show the expansion tank that has the float sticking up when he is selecting the correct size filler neck adapter. If the system was really empty the float would not be floating on coolant like it was.

@@rb26dett32 I actually did got confused by this!!!

No you would have to refill the system as instructed using distilled water only and run the vehicle till you reach operating temp.Then put the heater on high using face vents and fan on low . Let it run then after a cool down, Re drain the system at the radiator and repeat till you are satisfied you have removed enough of the old coolant. Then carefully add undiluted coolant to any remaining distilled water into the tank or radiator to achieve a proper mix. Back in the day when cars were less complex you could remove the thermostat and do a flush .Access your heater core hoses and flush that out also. Replace your upper and lower hoses and install a new thermostat and you were done !

The thermostat will be on the supply side of the system (just before the return to the radiator). Since you're creating a vacuum, you're also sending coolant in through the lower radiator hose (return to the engine), so you're essentially going in behind a closed thermostat. The thermostat shouldn't be a problem.

I’m wondering the same thing.

No

Disconnect one hose at the end of the line to creat air so vacuum can be effective

Did you get the air out?

@@LeaningElephant just ended up being a not good enough air compressor

@jessicajune86 just ended up being not a good air compressor

Q Tran did you find out if this works on hondas or toyotas cause i have both

Marcos Rico yes this kit comes with a cone shaped adapter that works on toyotas. Got this kit for sale for like $55

Q Tran one more question, have you used it yet and if so how well does the adapter cone hold pressure cause i herd that some cone adapters tend to leak air, thank you for your response really appreciated!!

I have used it a few times at work and had random success with it (I work at a toyota dealer). Sometimes it will hold vacuum. Sometimes it will leak vacuum at a very low rate. Other times it would build vacuum and the moment you cut off the shop air the vacuum instantly drops. I kind of dislike the cone because it requires you to use your hands to stabilize the entire tool so it gets a perfect seal. If you tilt it one way or the other you may get a vacuum leak. The reservoir style they show in this video allows you to operate the tool with your hands free so you can walk away. Using the cone style adapter requires you to have at minimum 1 hand holding it at all times and if you let it go it'll just tip over and not seal. I have just resorted going back to using my Lisle spill-free funnel kit.

Q Tran a friend of mine recomended me to get the Smart fit radiator universal adapter kit from redline, he says that works very well, I also have the lisle funnel kit but damn! That takes too long.

Auxiliary position. Basically when all the lights are on but not engine

it isn't *needed* in 99% of applications, but it certainly takes a ton of work out when compared to manually bleeding, especially when you've evacuated the entire cooling system. In manual bleeding, you're likely to still have some air bubbles that require driving and regular checks over the following week or so to make sure you're not running low on coolant after all the little passages fill up and purge out the air. Some systems are self-bleeding in that way and will expel air at operating temperature through a pressure release valve, others are not. With vacuum bleeding, you are ensuring that there are no air bubbles when you refill the system. I can tell you especially on something like a 996 or 997 Carrera with a rear engine and front radiators, doing it manually takes about 6 hours and doing it with a vacuum purge tool like this takes about 20 minutes.