Hi Rob. I don’t see any recent posts for “Ask Rob Trek” so maybe you are done doing these episodes. I do have a couple of questions and maybe you will see this or maybe another subscriber with some opinions. Anyway, I have been shooting with a Nikkor 180mm lens adapted to my OM1 mk3 and obviously using manual focus. You mentioned in another video that you prefer using the highlight focusing aid over the enlarged view. I do and I don’t. It seems to me that the highlighting gives me a sense of more depth of focus than there actually is when close focusing. I’m using the Nikkor about 20 feet from my subject. I think I get more accurate close focus when using enlarged view even though it’s hard to use due to “enlarged” camera shake. Any thoughts? The other is taking pictures of the moon. It’s completely blown out in the viewfinder no matter what the aperture and shutter speed are. I can set the aperture and shutter speed manually to get a good picture but trying to focus on the totally blown out viewfinder image is really difficult. There must be a workaround that I’m missing. Suggestions?
I answer most of the questions in comments these days. As for focusing, at close distances, it is better to use the enlarged view. Make sure you have the IBIS programmed for 180mm and you are half pressing the shutter while focusing. This will enable the IBIS. As for the moon, change your metering to spot and put your focus point on the moon. That should get it to a middle grey exposure on the moon. Also make sure you have live view boost turned off. Let me know if that helps. -Rob
@@RobTrek Rob thanks for the reply. A month later I’m taking more nearly full moon shots (I tried to use a bright street light to simulate the moon but it didn’t work). I have managed to get correct exposures but I can’t set spot metering or any variation of metering on my OM1 mk3. In manual focus it seems to be full sensor metering no matter what I change. What does work is using focus magnification and cranking up the magnification until the moon is almost filling the viewfinder. Then I am basically “spot metering”. Without magnification the metering seems to be giving me a “middle gray” from the large area of black sky with a brilliant white spot in the middle. Have you experienced any of this before? Thanks for your input.
Great video Rob!! I just got my om-1 and my question is do i need dummy battery for longer recording hours or can i record plugged(because i tried and it works) but i dont know how is gonna affect the battery for 8h 2-3 times per week. Tnx
Yes, a dummy batter works great. While I haven't done 8hr runs, I run 2-3 hours every week for my live stream. If you're using a power bank for your dummy battery, it should have a recharge/recycle life of at least 500x.
Rob, I can't help wondering if this would work for making a time-lapse video of the upcoming total solar eclipse. Given that someone had an OM-1 + solar filter + star tracker + tripod + external monitor + external batteries. From first contact to last contact is approximately 2 1/2 hrs. One could spot hi meter on the sun itself (with filter installed), but there is no way to test exposure for totality when the filter is removed, and no practical way to practice. I photographed the 2017 eclipse with a series of bracketed exposures and gimbal (no tracker). What are your thoughts?
I've never thought about it nor have any experience. My initial thought would be to spot hi meter the sun with filter, then lock that exposure for the rest of the frames.
hi Rob, OOT question, if i going to buy a used camera between E-PL8 vs E-PL9, and the E-PL8 is cheaper like half the price, which one is a better choice?
Rob Trek video settings 9/3/23 Hi Rob, I'm wondering how I can adjust the ISO and shutter speed on a em5 m2 camera. I'm doing Astro photography and I would like to take video files. What must I do to make these adjustments? Hopefully it can me done easier. Thanks, RJ
@@RobTrek hi Rob, are you telling me if I make the adjustments in manual. Mode, and press the red record video button, it will use the manual settings for the video?
Thanks. I have been looking for this info, but slightly adapted. I want to to shoot "blue hour to starlight timelapse," I would need 15 seconds ss on my 12 mm lens, and I would need to use Starry Sky Focus. Would these auto ISO, lowest SS, and spot hi settings still be right?
I would have to try this to be sure, but my gut tells me to dial in -1 ev Exposure Compensation. So use all the same settings, dial in -1ev, and see what you get. My rational is that the sky might end up being too bright and you won't see the stars as clearly.
Thanks. I got good results with the 12 mm lens:A F4 auto ISO. lowest SS: 10 seconds, highest ISO default, exposure -1.5. i forgot to change metering to spot, but it worked anyway. The shutterspeed adapted until it hit 10 seconds, then it started to increase ISO. I could not use Starry Sky because I think it is not possible to refocus during interval shooting, so I set to infinity. Again, thanks. This info came out just when I needed it.
@@judithwinkler1553 The ESP metering works pretty well. I'm glad those settings worked! Depending on the lens, if you push the lens release button, it should force the lens to infinity focus. Just be sure set your camera to MF first.
