There are other ways to fix plastlic: gluing, epoxy putty, embeding metal reinforcement, even zip ties. It's a broader but relevant topic to also explore what is the best method in each scenario.
Plastic welding was one of the courses I taught, you did a great job. only I would not recommend a soldering iron, unless it had a flat tip, after all you need to fuse the material, a soldering iron has a point which will make it harder.
Thanks Bob for your endorsement and explanation about fusing the material. Soldering iron is definitely not the best tool for the job, my point is you can get a half decent job done with whats on hand. Cheers.
Nice in-depth explanation! The only thing I want to add: after using a soldering iron tip on plastic, it will not solder electronic components anymore ( ask me how I know...) Get extra tips or a cheaper dedicated soldering iron if you use yours for both.
GREAT VIDEO. I want to start welding plastic. I purchased 2 types of equipment from Harbor Freight. I will see if they are any good before repairing any thing. Thank you, Stay Safe and God Bless.
What would you suggest I use to repair several white vinyl fence pickets on a porch railing? Made with the same stuff as vinyl fencing? They’re turned-looking spindles with a lot of detail.
Speaking of common household items, a hair dryer to keep the plastic warm longer can be useful when you are using a temperature low enough not to vaporize the plastic on contact. Thinner plastics require MUCH more accurate temperature control and cool off nearly instantly. The air from a blow dryer would likely extend the workability period without overheating the plastic as a heat gun might if its too close. I did plastic welding with a torch and a chainsaw file as my "soldering gun". I would heat the area to be welded with the torch gently till I started to see small bubble and it had the consistency of chocolate left in the sun. Then I would use the heated metal to melt the targeted area, reheating the metal as needed to keep it melting the plastic, yet not get it hot enough it vaporizes the plastic. This method is time consuming, requires a torch, and worked really well on the chain brake for my chainsaw. I do not recommend plastic welding things related directly to safety. Always ask yourself "what if". What if my weld fails, can I live (literally at times) with that? Therefore safety= replace.
when one works in small areas, the temperature will build up, and the entire area may sag, and if youve been adding plastic, you may not even know it till you flip your piece over. a piece of tape placed over the other side of the weld area can prevent such a failure.also its a good idea, if youve been in an area for a few minutes, to stop and allow that area to cool down to ambient. the temperature at any given point can increase slowly to a larger than is obvious degree, and it takes eternity (more or less) to cool it down so the plastic regains stiffness and is easier and more productive to finish the job with minimum overall damage. just sayin.
Many thanks Jack, this is valuable advice for us DIY repairers. I do find sagging and shrinkage is a problem for thin plastic pieces, worth taking preventative measures.