How to Drive Stick Shift and Rev Match in a BRZ! 

True, but this depends on the vehicle. On under-powered vehicles, this will result in stalling the car (I did it by accident lol, so I know this) but your are 100% correct (in my short experience) on adequately powered vehicles.

Or you could just use the hand brake. Using your clutch to keep you from rolling back is not good for it.

U keep ur foot on brake, after the light turns green or when u move then u do it like i said above. But it's all personal preferences :)

Here in the UK we all drive manuals and we learn to use the handbrake/emergency brake when doing a hillstart. That way, you can get the biting point, hold your feet still and release the handbrake without rolling back.

Here in the U.S. we don't do a hell of a lot of parking on hills steep enough for uphill starts to be a huge problem. And of course most of our vehicles have enough low-end torque that you can put the vehicle in first gear, keep your foot on the brake and as the clutch is partially engaged move your right foot from the brake to the accelerator. During ANY high-load start such as on a hill, its safest to keep ONE HAND ON THE WHEEL and the OTHER ON THE SHIFTER just in case the transmission isn't fully in gear and tries to pop out or the vehicle jerks or stalls and you need to rapidly shift to neutral while moving your accelerator foot to the brake. We generally learn that clutches are engaged as much as possible and disengaged as little as possible. And of course a hell of a lot of Americans learn to drive manual transmission vehicles in light-duty or even medium-duty trucks where the stupid heel-toe shit is not only impossible but even more pointless than in some "sports car" with a wannabe race driver who thinks he's hot shit trying to do manually what the transmission is designed to do automatically. Sitting idle with the transmission in gear or neutral and the clutch pedal partially or completely depressed OR having the clutch disengaged a ridiculously long period of time while doing the stupid "heal-toe" throttle blip downshift shit or engaging and disengaging the clutch TWICE to shift ONCE by using equally moronic "double clutching" when that ALSO is entirely unnecessary with synchromesh transmissions is just stupid and it wears out the release bearing, pilot bearing, input shaft bearings and the input shaft and clutch disk splines prematurely and unnecessarily. Back in the old days when clutch release bearings could be and were lubricated when the clutch was adjusted, which was necessary with organic friction materials and mechanical linkages, that wasn't such a big deal. Clutches also had a lot less clamping force because the engines didn't have as much "horsepower" but had good low-end torque so slipping the clutch to any degree was rarely necessary and the vehicles had lower gears for even more help. Now with hydraulic clutch release bearings, sealed release bearings that can't be lubricated and much higher clamping loads because vehicles are higher-geared and many clutches are much smaller and have more clamping loads, excessive clutch pedal riding or periods of disengagement when the transmission could be put in neutral and the clutch engaged is a bigger problem. In the old days clutches were typically Borg and Beck or other similar designs that used several individual coil springs to apply clamping force and those clutches retained all or nearly all of their clamping force as the friction surfaces wore because adjusting the clutch to regain free travel applied preload to the springs. Modern diaphragm clutches get weaker and weaker as time goes on and excessive heat from slipping or unnecessary shifting or engagement/disengagement cycles weaken them further. They use Belleville washers for springs and as the compression of the washers is reduced so is the clamping load. And like all springs it cycles that weaken and "wear them out" and they can't be adjusted to provide more clamping force, so the sooner you want to replace a clutch, the more you should slip it, engage and disengage it unnecessarily, ride the clutch, etc. Hydraulic release bearings "self-adjust" for wear, and modern friction materials and the metals used in flywheels and flex plates are more durable. So nobody notices a problem until suddenly there is no clutch when the bearing or the hydraulic actuating assembly fail because they got hot and damaged from continual clutch riding or excessive disengagement along with stupid "throttle blips" that create more friction at any given load. The fact of that matter is that even in heavy, powerful vehicles with a LOT more torque and that are used for very heavy loads, such as turbodiesel-powered, light-duty trucks, a quality FACTORY clutch can and will last 200,000 miles or more even in a truck used to pull trailers and gross combination vehicle weights of up to 15 or 20 tons on farms and ranches where frequent starts and stops in soft ground or one hills or other challenging terrain are common. Of course that's when those vehicles are owned and operated by knowledgeable and intelligent drivers who stick to the basic rules of thumb to only shift when necessary, use low gear in the transmission and even low range in the transfer case for starting or pulling heavy loads relatively short distances to the final destination or to a flat or slightly downhill location where starting in high range is possible and clutch slipping is minimized and to NEVER ride the clutch OR sit in a stationary vehicle wth the engine running, the clutch disengaged and the tranmission in gear for any longer than absolutely necessary. Put the transmission in neutral, engage the clutch and give every component and part of the clutch and transmission input shaft assemblies a break. When we get 200,000 miles out of clutches under those conditions and city boys with little rice grinders are bragging about how "smooth" and "well" they drive and shift and think they're accomplishing getting similar mileage from a clutch that has maybe 1/5 the torque capacity but hasn't ever been subjected to 1/10th the load, its pretty obviously that its no the CITY BOYS with their little RICE GRINDERS who should be making RU-vid videos or writing online forum posts telling other people how to drive manual transmission vehicles.

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change ur profile pic brah

Most definitely. It’s also very satisfying when you switch gears smoothly. It’s all about being efficient and smoove. But most importantly as u pointed out, it’s all about fun!!!

Love the double negative.

Jajal's Channel Haha sorry, my native language isn't english. Since my native language has double negatives its easy to forget it when typing english.

BluWarta92 Are you kidding? Your english is better than most youtube commenters who's native language is english. BTW, you made excellent points in you comment.

Jajal's Channel Thank you for your compliments :)

Jajal's Channel Thank you for your compliments :)

its all about feel and different for different vehicles. Figure it out by feel for your own vehicle by driving it

You don't sound cocky at all, I thought it was going to be something so foreign and hard that I'd never get it when my dad started teaching me, but within two days of practice, it became second nature, it's exactly how you put it. It's all muscle memory

Your absolutely correct man, not cocky at all. It's so simple, you just have to be curious, start off slow, feel it out.

So I just learned today. Not that hard, just something that need practice. I only stalled out once, luckily the truck I used has a very easy feel clutch and it lets you know if it wants gas. The only thing I really have to work on is breaking the "feel" of driving auto, smoothing out first and reverse and downshifting properly. Otherwise, very fun and enlightening experience!

Darkmatter28031 Yep, the car definitely lets you know when it needs gas. I don't know if this sounds silly but cars have a way of letting you know what you need to do :P

Darkmatter28031 I haven't had a manual for a year or so, and I still make the motions of shifting every time I drive. I tell people to do that if they feel spooked about driving manual until they understand the motions.

i'm pretty sure he has an aftermarket exhaust, so i wouldn't expect that sound from a stock brz.

rjmari True, but it still sounds really good. Haha

make him happy and drive a manual car

resolved to make that my next car :)

hahaha awesome! i too am trying best of luck to you man

likewise man! drive safe and enjoy~

The normal RU-vid "manual transmission expert" advice to go buy a beater and beat the hell out of it while you learn is stupid. At some point you're going to have to or want to graduate from your "trainer" to a nicer vehicle or a larger, heavier or otherwise more challenging vehicle to drive. Doing stupid shit with beaters is nothing but a good way to learn bad habits. Just like watching RU-vid "how-to" videos is a really poor way to learn anything. The heel-toe and double-clutching bullshit most of these "experts" preach is not only a complete waste of time and energy, there's no better way to accomplish nothing but increasing wear and tear on the clutch, clutch release bearing, trans input shaft, clutch disk, pilot bearing etc AND the vehicle brakes as you try to play "sport driver" and jack around trying to operate three pedals with two feet simultaneously all so you can "speed match" the engine and transmission while driving a vehicle equipped with a synchromesh transmission that was specifically designed to DO THAT FOR YOU. The "experts" who act like a throttle blip is all it takes to "speed match" and that they're the ones doing it when its the synchronizers in the transmission doing what they THINK they're doing the overwhelming majority of the time are pretty funny. And they're clueless. If they were really doing the "speed matching" themselves as they'd have to with a non-synchronized transmission, they wouldn't be using the clutch at all because speed matching with the engine speed varied to match transmission mainshaft speed pretty much requires the clutch to remain ENGAGED so the input shaft is TURNED by the engine until the input shaft and mainshaft speeds MATCH. If you disengage the clutch and THEN blip the throttle, you're not speed matching SHIT because the shafts you're trying to synchronize aren't both TURNING. But they do their little heel-toe dance, put some "preload" on the shifter and synchronizers and when the speeds get close enough that the synchronizer can do the "matching" by slowing down the mainshaft while speeding up the input shaf and the transmission finally "goes into gear" as the synchronizers go from being brakes to locking collars conecting gears to shafts, they think THEY DID IT! Of course if they'd simply slow down sufficiently that the downshift won't "redline" the engine and would rapidly disengage the clutch, and quickly and firmly move the shifter to the next lowest gear while the input shaft speed is already going plenty slow for the synchronizer to work without being overloaded, they could downshift in a fraction of a second and then relatively SLOWLY allow the clutch to engage so that the VEHICLE would brake the engine and vice versa. Which after all is the NORMAL goal OF a downshift when its being done as you slow the vehicle rather than to get more rapid acceleration for speeding up. Then they could let that big brake under the hood get to work producing a LOT more braking WITHOUT wearing out or even USING the regular brakes or if necessary using them a smaller extent. Shifting QUICKLY and minimizing clutch DISENGAGEMENT and ENGAGEMENT times and cycles is the BEST WAY to make EVERYTHING INVOLVED last as long as possible. Release bearings aren't made for prolonged loads at high speeds from "throttle blips" while they're as heavily loaded as possible, pilot bearings aren't made to endure repeated and long-lasting periods of having their tiny needle bearings and very minimal lubrication overloaded as the input shaft spins at a far higher or lower speed than the bearing race in the crankshaft and the torsional damper components of a clutch disk which help reduce clutch disk spline and input shaft wear can't function when the disk is flapping around in the breeze and rattling around on the input shaft. So basically they're long, drawn-out, unnecessary, pointless and really IGNORANT "speed matching" efforts and heel-toe dancing trying to operate 3 pedals simultaneously with 2 feet to do what one foot and one hand and the transmission's own parts can do and WILL do when they're finally done jacking around are really just excellent ways to wear shit out prematurely. Which is why most of those manual transmission experts are really impressed with not only their "skills" in the shifting department but managing to get maybe all of 150,000-200,000 miles out of the factory clutch. Clearly they don't know that far larger, heavier and WAY more heavily loaded but PROPERLY DRIVEN and INTELLIGENTLY SHIFTED vehicles get 200,000+ miles out of THEIR clutches to. And some more like 400,000 or even 500,000. Why? Because the guys and gals who own them and rely on them for their livelihood AND who can't afford downtime and damn sure don't want to do anything but drive their vehicles for maximum efficiency and reliability and durability don't JACK AROUND PLAYING HEAL-TOE SPEED RACER or "DOUBLE-CLUTCHING DADDY" as they shift a SYNCHROMESH TRANSMISSION that's designed specifically so SPEED MATCHING and DOUBLE CLUTCHING are NOT necessary. So if you really want to learn how to drive manual transmission vehicles properly and well and develop GOOD HABITS that will benefit you and any vehicle you drive, find someone who has a light-duty or medium-duty truck with low gears, plenty of torque and a lot of "toughness" in the powertrain so you're not killing the damn thing every other minute as you practice taking off in low gear in various conditions and that also has some weight and intertia and low-end power so once you get it moving you can keep it moving as you shift as quickly and smoothly as you COMFORTABLY can. Most of these clowns mention "speed" like its a great goal to strive for in shifting, but if you'll notice how MOST of the "speed shift", you'll see their vehicles are anything but "smooth". The point is to keep the vehicle moving straight ahead with continuous acceleration while in gear but with minimum jerking or bucking or jumping during clutch disengagement and rengagement. When their cars "hop" during a shift, that's the opposite of "smooth" and they're just adding wear and tear and are actually WASTING power that could otherwise be moving the car FORWARD rather than BOUNCING it. Somebody who is really good and fast and smooth with a manual makes it look easy, but mainly because they're TAKING IT EASY. No matter how fast you can move your feet and hands, the SYCHRONIZERS need a little time to do their work and complete the shift and the clutch needs time to grab solidly before you pour on the coal after an upshift. MISSED GEARS are ALWAYS an over-anxious driver who is out of synch with the car, and there isn't a missed shift in the world that's better than a "slow" and/or "sloppy" shift since when the shifter gets jammed into the next gear and suddenly stops, its the SYNCHRONIZERS taking a beating as they try to slow down and speed up and speed match parts they don't have a chance in hell of slowing down or speeding up to speed match them. Anybody who is really good and smooth and EFFICIENT and knows how to shift a manual well and MAKE IT LAST not only won't preach "do this" or "don't do that", he or she won't have to say a thing. All they have to do is drive while you watch and you'll learn all you need to know. Shifting is like a golf swing or shooting form or anything else where there is a supposed "perfect" technique that not only DOESN'T make professionals out of all those who HAVE '"perfect form", its actually fairly rare AMONG real professionals who realize that what works for them and is comfortable is what got them where they were because they enjoyed it, enjoyed practicing and training and kept after it and didn't let the "experts" tell them what they were doing "wrong". They just kept doing what worked and it worked better and better until they were better than most or ALL of the "experts" with "perfect form". That's what driving is. If it doesn't feel right and doesn't feel good and natural, why freaking do it? To impress somebody else?

does he tho?

@@Fg4Lucki idk maybe

+Michael Rodriguez should have had it in gear

+WULDNAHKEST the clutch is engaged which stops it from rolling like how on an automatic car if you have it in drive on a hill it wont roll back

+WULDNAHKEST Because when the car is in a gear that's not reverse, it doesn't let the car roll backwards because of the way the gears are oriented.

+WULDNAHKEST from my understanding being in gear = having the engine connected to the transmission. When the engine is off and not moving at all and the transmission is connected to it, it can't go anywhere.

Rolly McRollface.

JustDriftIt sorry

HayRiver12 I'm going from a 2013 automatic FRS to a manual BRZ and I'm scared lol

did you get the brz?

Thinh Pham actually in the process I didn't ink it would actually happen but we've picked the car and are talking to the dealership

Elio Milite Australia too :/.

Its body memorization... getting the feeling of the car.. and getting to know the sound of your engine. You will get it... I just a stick last Friday and I love it .

I know this is 3 years late but I pretty much bought a WRX and learned manual on it after buying it. It’s definitely possible and ideal if there’s no way you could practice on someone else’s manual car. I personally don’t know anyone with a manual car so I had to learn after buying my car.

@@kevinnorris6558 yeah I agree with Kevin. This is 3 years late but I bought an Si like a month ago and have been driving it ever since. I drove a stick 8 years ago before I got this car. I basically watched a crap ton of videos on how to drive stick. I didn’t have access to a stick car so had no other choice. Then I got one and just put my knowledge to the test. This is something you do have to put your hands on to learn.

Lol

He has been in movies

Most europeans use manuals instead of automatics (from what i've heard). But yes in america we are fatties who like to eat mcdonalds while driving.

If I'm not mistaken in Europe its mandatory to learn on a manual . you have to take the test with a manual so lucky for them but for us on the other hand its a dying breed

In France most people use manual and if yon take the test with an auto you are not allowed to drive a manual.

nigel dickson I think you can learn in an automatic but then you can only drive an automatic, could be wrong tho.

That's your problem bro lol

Rumpleforeskiiin That's what I thought I would get in response. Oh well, I guess I will figure it out when I need to.

empty parking lot is great

One thing you can do to build SMALL confidence with the feel: Get in, start the car, re-park it back and forth GENTLY (feeling the clutch engage is a big part)

Els we Be Thank's.

yes you still have to gas it shifting into 2nd gear. The higher gear number you go the less gas you need to shift it. You wont need as much gas for 2nd as for 1st. 1st is always the most challenging because you are gathering momentum, once you are moving it is much easier.

oh ok thanks, i always wondered that, ive driven many manuals (not for over 10 minutes) and ive never been able to figure out if i gas it in 2nd or not, it worked both ways but i wanted some input from the more experience drivers

tacos4u632 I just started driving for my licsense (16 yo) and when I shift to 2nd I release the gas, press in the clutch, shift to 2nd, release the clutch and by the last part for the clutch to be fully releaser I give is som slight gas and when the clutch is fullt out I give it more gas to get ready for 3rd. My dad have driven like this for 30+ years so I do it that way.

No don't listen to that guy. You defiantly do not need to has it as you are shifting into second. You can left off the gas fully before ever putting the clutch in and shifting. And same with every other gear after

Scott Brixey you dont HAVE to gas it but is that something that you want a beginner whos unsure of the shifting process to do? You will learn how to do it with time. This thread is hella old lol.

Thanks to both :)

I learned stick on a '53 Ford logging truck... that thing was awesome! really tricky when full of wood... but driving stick is still really fun!

haha nice and the brakes on the mg weren't very responsive (had to apply a strong amount of force) so it probably wasn't the best car to learn on but now every car I drive is easier than that.

Ayyyyy

what about sex? oh yeah you're right. the girl gets pregnant. =(

He says it in the video not to do it. Your self looks dumb now

My bad, I must have missed that part :D

Fuzzy Drop No he doesn't. You can keep the clutch pressed in. Standing on the clutch is when you keep the clutch at the grab point for extended periods. The clutch should ONLY be at the grab point/friction zone when accelerating from a stop. Otherwise you should press it in all the way to change gears. You don't need to feather the clutch and gas together while the vehicle is moving as long as you let the clutch out smoothly. Quickly, but smoothly. You can always "bop" the gas to give it just a tiny boost in RPM when doing so, but I wouldn't recommend it.

Jamming the clutch pedal all the way to the floor is of no benefit given the fact that the clutch pedal and/or linkage have stops to prevent further movement and those stops are positioned so that the pedal stops moving long after the clutch is completely disengaged. Especially with modern hydraulically-actuated clutches, Once the master cylinder piston reaches a certain point in its travel, fluid flow to the slave cylinder is cut off no matter how much further the piston travels. Otherwise excess pressure would damage or destroy the pressure lines, seals, etc. And I don't have any clue why people are referring to the point where the clutch disk first begins to be clamped between the pressure plate and flywheel and begins slipping as the "grab point". Its exactly the opposite. A clutch that is slipping is not "grabbing" and it isn't until the clutch pedal is released enough at clamping load has overcome slippage and the clutch is locked up with additional engagement only adding additional load that the clutch has actually "grabbed". By NOT depressing the pedal all the way to its stop, you develop a feel for the clutch engagement and disengagement and you're not tentatively letting up on the pedal waiting for the so-called "grab point" while the clutch itself hasn't even begun to engage. The entire point behind modern diaphragm-style clutches and their Belleville washer "springs" is that they deliver higher clamping loads with reduced pedal effort and that they're usually centrifugally "boosted" by weights that cause more load to be applied as engine speeds increase. Those increased loads and increased speeds actually make them HARDER to accurately and precisely "speed shift" with and are the reason why "missed shifts" are so common with modern, "high-tech" synchromesh transmissions that should be all but IMPOSSIBLE to miss gears in WHEN the clutch is disengaged fully BEFORE shifting. The wannabe "experts" who "preload" the shifter by pushing or pulling on it to any degree so that when the clutch BEGINS to release and slips enough for the load and torque to be sufficienly lowered at the synchronizers with the tranny then popping into neutral are pretty cluless First of all, it IS damned hard on synchros, forks, linkage, etc and SECONDLY the amount of load REDUCTION necessary for the tranmission to jump OUT OF GEAR is ALWAYS going to be far lower than the load reduction necessary for the synchronizers to do their thing and speed-match the parts for the upshift or downshift. Sure, you can JAM the trans into gear at whatever level of clutch slippage allows it to pop out and be jammed into the next gear. But only for a while. And if you're already reengaging the clutch AND hitting the throttle WHILE the synchros are still shifting and are being otherwise stressed by being jammed into gear and binding but if feels like a "good shift" because its "fast" and the engine speed barely drops, its only a matter of time before you start shelling out synchronizers. And no "throttle blip" pseudo-speed matching during downshifts when everything is slowing down anyway and the synchros are still doing the actual speed matching helps synchronizers that are being beat on and abused during upshifts. All of these wannabe gear jammers that think they're Ronnie Sox or Grump Jenkins in a rice grinder and really think they're smooth based on speed and lack of engine speed loss while their shifters are jerking around all over when they reengage the clutch and the car is bouncing up and down aren't going to think they're so smooth if they keep their cars long enough for their shitty technique and focus on speed rather than consistency and complete shifts with minimum effort and force to catch up with them. Or rather to catch up with their transmissions. Especially since many modern transaxles are no longer serviceable as far as being able to drain them and refill them with lubricant. Manufacturers long ago figured out that that the people buying the little rice grinders tend to be young and pretty car dumb and were more likely to either perform no maintenance or improper maintenance using incorrect fluids and in some cases would drain the transaxle and refill it with engine oil thinking they were changing the engine oil. And since the only thing worse on modern syncrhomesh transmission syncrhonizers and the materials in them than NO OIL is the WRONG OIL, manufacturers just decided to use premium synthetic factory fill lubes, remove as many potential leak points as possible, remove external plugs entirely and put the money saved not making the transaxles serviceable into super-duper seals where leaks were possible. Of course the dealerships can and will still pull oil samples from used cars and cars brought in for transaxle problems under warranty, and since there's no way to drain away the telltale evidence of abuse in the form of burned oil, particles and fragments from damaged parts, etc. there's no way to sucker a dealer or knowledgeable private buyer by changing the transmission fluid or dumping in some miracle lube to make it shift decently if the tranny has been abused or the clutch is shot or both. Even if a vehicle is taken in for sheduled maintenance or service, just because the trans fluid can't be changed and the vehicle is low mileage doesn't mean the dealer won't pull a sample and have it tested. One way or another they're all getting wise to hot-rodders and "Tuners" and all their little toys and tricks. Not that they ever had much of a REAL chance of fooling anybody with half a clue. Even tuners and programmers that supposedly don't leave "fingerprints" in the vehicle computers are still creating things like abnormal fluid temperatures and pressures, abnormal injector pulsewidths,, funky O2 sensor outputs etc etc etc. And all those "maximum" and "minimum" values for a small or large number of "critical" data points as determined by the manufacturer and the codes that go with them but that may not activate a disabled Check Engine light the tuner or programmer has "turned off" are still stored along with the data that produced them. And they're virtually impossible to remove because they get "burned into" the core system software every time a new "record high" or "record low" is set. They can also be stored on any or all of the various vehicle controllers and processors, which is increasing common as a whole pile of controllers that have one specific system they're responsible for are all networked together on a CAN-bus so they all get all the data on the network and they all sort out and store data they're programmed to keep even if its completely unrelated to their system and function on the vehicle. Manufacturers don't even hate tuners and programmers and other "bolt-on" modifications since there's no better justification for voiding a warranty and no better way to sell NEW vehicles than to have their OLDER vehicles turned into junk and maybe even salvage-titled junk when a whole pile of bolt-ons and the missing factory parts they replaced result in a vehicle that's completely worthless to an OEM dealer and even most good used car dealers and most private buyers. Nobody wants somebody elses castoff late-model" hot-rod to pay even a fraction of wholesale bluebook value if it were a stocker in average condition. All these guys dumping stupid money into expensive vehicles and spending many times more than it would cost to build a project car in order to have a hot-rod "daily driver" or "sleeper" have no clue that someday their pride and joy won't be worth what it would have been left bone-stock and unmodified no matter how much they've dumped into "mods". Guys who want hot-rods tend to either BUILD THEM or PAY TO HAVE THEM BUILT and they don't look at someone else's old project as anything but another used car and an incomplete and compromised one at that.

Wrong! You'll kill the release bearing. Put it to neutral and release the clutch.

Thats why they call it "double clutch" not "single clutch" to perform a correct downshift the clutch goes in twice

Ryan T Nobody really double-clutches anymore for a few decades now. I had to do it though when I drove an old army truck when the synchros went bad. I guess it's still a good idea to know how to double-clutch.

Ryan T Nobody really double-clutches anymore for a few decades now. I had to do it though when I drove an old army truck when the synchros went bad. I guess it's still a good idea to know how to double-clutch.

Absolutely, maybe it can teach people why 1st and Reverse grind if your even rolling the slightest bit... Those gears are rarely synchro'ed. Heel-toe shifting is another animal that the everyday driver certainly doesnt need to know

Ryan T It makes sense to heel-toe, I don't see any point in trying to double clutch and I will not do it. :)