Thanks to your video I was able to redo the eye splice for my 3/4'' dyneema (7200ft )rope from my 45 000 pound puller on my construction site. Thanks again
A handy trick: When you taper the bury at the end, if you start pulling yarns out from the bitter end instead of the standing part first, the rope won't fall apart as quickly or easily. It also help make it clearer which yarn is the next one to pull out. Thanks for making al your videos and keep it up!
I thought I wasn't going to learn anything today! Now I have found and learned the correct way to tie these splices! Thank You for the lesson, you are a great teacher. Now I just need to find the rope I bought and get busy!
Fantastic! I do parachute repair for a living and we use eye splices at the ends of the lines(1/4" braided nylon, not Dyneema...or 550 paracord for these parachutes). I noticed years ago that there was a weak spot at the end of the tail, lots of snapped lines there. I started cutting back half the cords about 1-1/2 to 2 inches to create the same tapered effect and some of my coworkers don't really understand the concept when I explain it. They are about to watch this video LOL. Thanks for the validation!!!
08:15 While pushing the fid thru, you want equal number of strands on both sides of the fid, to ensure the lock is equally strong on all sides. 12-braid so count 6 strands on each side of the pushed through fid.
If I ever need to do Dyneema rigging I will look back on this video. I probably won't be at the decision point for a few years yet. Certainly a very informative video and I certainly support its creation.
I just experimented with these splices on double braid dyneema (with cover), including the Mobius Brummell Lock, it’s more complicated but comes out ok. The trick is to get everything very tight, and then to be gentle getting the splice into the cover at the end. I then finished with self- amalgamating tape to tidy up and protect at bit. I also use covered line for the lashing, so everything important is out of the UV. I’m in the subtropics so the sun is brutal in summer.
This is perfect. I have been trying to get a handle on how to splice dyneema rope for a line of dog leashes I am developing. Thank you very much for the clear and detailed tutorial.
Thank you so much for thus great tutorial! Being an "old" guy, i cut my teeth "pun intended Doctor" .. on 3 strand line. this seems not only quicker but looks much neater. You have a great RU-vid site.
This is the one I want to practice till I get as good as the Rigging Doctor... Ok, well, maybe in several years, but for now I just want to do this one splice. I have LOTS of plans for its use, and this video makes it look so easy... Course, typical, I've left the figs and rope at my parents so can't practice tonight, instead I'm doing chores...
Ive done Dynema dead eyes, I haven't used them yet but I've done them for splicing practice. I eventually plan on doing all of my standing rigging in dynema
I have been using dyneema for fishing for over 15+ years, Under the trade name Power Pro fishing line great stuff and handles UV light very well. STRONGER than steel believe it or not.
Beautiful video, very simple and straight forward, I’ll be trying this splice in the future. As a Captain since 1992 I’ve never heard of anyone cutting someone’s rigging as revenge. Personally I’d just pull the cap shroud cotter pin between the turnbuckle and chain plate. Maybe consider revising that story so no knuckle heads get any ideas.
I think people on the water are generally nicer and won’t actually come sabotage someone else’s boat; but that doesn’t mean we won’t talk a mean story 🤣
Phew, thanks for the tutorial! just did this in 2021 with my 3/4 inch recovery rope after it snapped when I let a stuck guy tie it up to his truck himself. He gave me $100 for the rope even though I told him I’d splice it and only loose like 6 feet. I also just used the biggest knitting needle I could find ($10) and it worked perfectly
Very good tutorial. I have done the brummel eye splice on 3mm spectra hollow core braid for hang gliding tow bridles. Each pilot has to have their own bridle rope because one end stays attached to the pilot or glider after releasing from the tow line at altitude. It's used for both aero-tow or truck-tow to altitude. I taper the end with even cut-offs as you did. The problem is that the ends of the inner fibers of the tapered tail work their way out between the braid of outer braid. I suspect that this is because in this application, the splice is put under load and then unloaded over and over again. The eye splice is held under load while towing on a spinnaker release shackle. The pilot trips the release on the shackle when the towing pilot waves you off or when the truck runs out of road length. The bridle slips out through an aluminum ring that is on the end of the tow rope. That eye splice then flaps in the wind behind the hang glider unless the pilot gathers it in. So, the load/unload cycling and the loose flaping in the wind let the inner fibers come out through the outer braid. It makes the bridle look frizzy and frayed along the length of the taper. The strength is not lessened by the inner fiber ends escaping. If anything, when loaded, the tightening of the outer braid on loading grips the inner fibers better. It looks like crap though and makes some people think the bridle is no good. Someone in these comments mentioned covering the taper section with self-amalgamating tape. That would be better than heat shrink. I had though about using heat shrink tubing on just the inner taper before milking it back into the outer braid. Self-amalgamating tape on the outside would probably be a better idea. You can get splicing PDF instructions for all types of rope and types of splices (eye or end-to-end) from Sampson Rope at: samsonrope.com/resources/how-to-splice-rope The 12 strand brummel eye splice is at: www.samsonrope.com/docs/default-source/splice-instructions/12strand_c2_whoopie_sling_amsteel_amsteel-blue_web.pdf?sfvrsn=ae4d2872_2 They show the inner taper as only a angled cut. I think the longer taper like you did is better. I learned the brummel eye splice from a downloaded PDF over 20 years ago. The combination of having a PDF instruction sheet and seeing it done "real-time" in your video should make it a breeze to learn. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks! I still haven’t experimented with tapes on the taper. The instructions from Samson with the angle cut is a nice gesture but it’s just not fair enough for a high load application.
@@RiggingDoctor I agree. Have you ever had problems with fiber ends from the long tapered inner tail work their way out through the outer braid strands? For standing rigging on keel boats that are not trailerable, the rigging would be under some positive load all the time. Any trailerable sailboat would have the standing rigging and mast taken down to trailer it on roadways. Maybe self-almagating tape would prevent the inner fibers sticking out and looking terrible. My dinghy sailboats have stainless steel wire rope (aircraft cable) for standing rigging. Spectra and Dyneema are the same general type of plastic (UHMWPE). Their production methods differ and therefore have slightly different characteristics. Both fibers make low stretch ropes with Spectra about half as much stretch as Dyneema. Dyneema has a higher load rating for the same size rope and better wear resistance. So there are pros and cons to using one over the other. Kite-boarders like the small diameter Spectra rope made with an inner core of Spectra and a tight 90 degree Spectra braided sheath. The tight braid keeps even very fine sand away from the inner core. The inner core makes it harder to do a Brummel eye splice. I do not know if you could even do a Brummel eye splice on these lines because of the very tight braid. Some small diameter Spectra lines are pre-streched because Spectra has lower stretch than Dyneema, but creeps to a longer length over time and high load. It's personal preference. Both are about 33% stronger than Kevlar.
you earned a sub.. i was about to do a video on this because i bought a synthetic rope for my winch that was too long.. and the factory rope had that fancy loop you did.. i was watching videos and they all used the string.. i knew the string was a bad idea from first sight.. maybe ill do a video without the fids because i just have to do 3 of them
Thanks just what I needed to make my decision between wire rope and synthetic for my work shed ramp lift winch. Would this be okay to use if I needed to splice two pieces of line together? Liked and subbed.
Splicing two lines together is very similar and has all the strength properties of this splice. Here is the video on how to do that splice: Dyneema End to End Splice [How to] | Sailing Wisdom ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ETvUcxxM5ow.html
Great "how to" video. I love all your "how to" videos. I have used this brummel eye splice technique on many hollow braid lines. I have some 3mm spectra hollow core line that I have made hang gliding tow ropes and bridles with. The problem I have had is that with continuous load/unload cycles, the cut, tapered fibers start working their way out between the braids of the outer layer that the tail is buried into. This makes the rope look like it is growing hairs or that the main outer braid is fraying. Have you experienced this with Dyneema? I don't think it would be a problem with standing rigging. It is the multiple load/unload (unload with bending and flexing) that, I think, causes the problem. Some suggested solution I have seen are to encapsulate the taper in heat shrink or self-almagamating electrical tape. I am weary of the heat shrink idea because I do not want to apply heat to the rope fibers.
The heat to shrink the tubing will be hot enough to degrade the fibers so I would stay away from that. I haven’t seen this issue on the standing rigging, but it never flexes, it only sees loading and unloading (windward vs leeward shrouds). The running rigging I have done with Dyneema also hasn’t shown this issue and that gets worked around a good bit. Sadly I’m having trouble coming up with a solution to your hair issue and the best that I have is to stick a D-splicer (or looped wire which is what I use since D-splicers are too expensive) from the line back towards the splice and basically try to pull the little frays back into the outer housing of the splice. The other option is to trim them off as they aren’t really that detrimental to the strength of the splice. I wonder if the Spectra vs Dyneema brands have this phenomenon where one grows little hairs where the other one doesn’t?
@@RiggingDoctor Thanks, this 3mm Spectra is, I think, an 8 braid hollow core. It would be harder to have a 12 braid result in a 3mm diameter. Maybe the 12 braid doesn't let the cut-off tapered ends work their way out between the braids, but the 8 braid does. On a bridle line, once you release from the areo-tow or ground truck tow, one end of the bridle line is just flapping in the wind while you are flying. That whipping around motion really gives the inner taper ends a chance to find a way out through the outer braids. The difference in construction (8 braid vs 12 braid) and the application situation are probably the combined factors that make the problem appear.
Mate,it is always a massive balance but you will be able to follow it through .I want to see you finish her but I, of all people know where you are at with this build.Rossco
If it’s a simple splice that will not have too much work, I taper the end of the 72x. If it’s going to be used in an important high stress place, I do the full 72x and then taper the extra length beyond that. For the standing rigging, I needed to bury about 2 feet, but buried about 6 feet and tapered the last 4 feet of the bury.
OMG Done a bunch of splices over the decades with my old Sampson fid kit ( pouch now held together with duct tape) but I had no idea what the pusher ice pick thingy did. I just now used it first time as per your directions durning some dynema splices and it worked like a charm. I might be able to hook you up with a week of free dock in Marathon Fl Oceanside 8 ‘ deep. When you get closer I’ll remind you if interested.
Thanks for that great tip! I had got my hands on a large amount of 5/16" Kevlar line that I use for camping, hammocks, etc. Since I can't burn the ends to keep them from fraying I found using 3-1 glued heat-shrink tubing a good way to seal the ends. I leave the tubing an 1/8" or so longer than the rope end and it shrinks down to a nice blunt point. This has worked well for me, but I am no pro, I wonder if you have a better method of doing this?
Do eye splices like this benefit at all from the use of a thimble? Are thimbles bad for use with fibre ropes? I’m looking to make a rope bridge and I need a secure way to make eye splices that I can connect shackles and turnbuckles to. I’d feel better about the friction point in the eye by protecting it with a thimble. (I’m a total amateur though and don’t know any better)
Thimbles are a must for the eye when they are loaded. It keeps the turn in the eye more open as tight bends will cause the fibers to stress and break. Thimble is a great addition to your system.
Fantastic video, well done. Boat builders and riggers I've met still seem to have a negative regard for Dyneema - rod rigging preferable and so on. Not sure how good Dyneema is with UV - the big issue, but it certainly won't crack or oxidize, and a fraction of the weight... Looked at carbon standing rigging the other day but it was worse than a baby in terms of how you had to look after it. What's the best?
As of now, there is no best. Metal cracks and corrodes. Dyneema is fine with UV but stretches. Carbon is too delicate. PBO can’t have any light. Pick your poison! An alternative is to go junk rig and have no standing rigging.
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