Thank you, I can't afford to go see a mechanic right now and my ebike is the only way i can get places. I had no idea why but i was losing like 70% of my braking power and it was really scary. Now im back to 100%
Very surprised seeing this recommended. While this is technically a way to adjust Rad brakes, it is not the recommended way by Rad or many others. I urge you to seek out other videos showing the very simple adjustment on the caliper that will not potentially compromise your cable integrity.
Thanks dude! I literally just had this issue a month ago and took bike to REI a place where they service bikes. They actually left my brakes worse I nearly got into a accident shortly after leaving their parking lot. I actually fixed it myself today and its riding good as new and stops with no issues
Should have shown about pad wear and how to adjust... The outside pad is the one that moves and floats, easy to replace if worn, and the inside pad that doesn't move and you need to adjust with an allen wrench, if it does not project from housing...
Rad actually says to adjust the housing adjustment, not the cable it’s self. Do this at the caliper, never at the handle end. This is done by pulling the housing out of it’s seat and adjusting the housing seat out, then move the lock nut back down till tight. Never adjust the cable it’s self.
Yes, this is the correct approach. What’s shown here can actually be dangerous over time because you lose the ability to clamp the brakes tighter when needed.
On the sides of your brake are adjusters you can tighten/loosen with a hex wrench that will bring your brake pads closer to the rotor. Search RU-vid ‘adjust disc brakes’ and you’ll find a better example. The problem with Rad bikes and many others is that the disc brakes they provide OEM are the cheap kind that technically work, but are very difficult to adjust on your own because they need to be re-set. If you aren’t perfectly precise, you either won’t get enough tightness, or you will add friction that kills the ride. Honestly the best thing is to get help from a bike shop or upgrade to brakes that have barrel adjusters on both sides so you can just tighten with a wrench.
When tightening the lever arm, it appears that you are moving the arm before tightening. That is potentially dangerous and should should not be done, as it could prevent the arm from fully engaging the brakes. Recommend watching the adjustment process from Park Tools as they describe why this should not be done as well as describing the full process for adjusting brakes.
I see that this is what he seems to be doing, rotating the lever arm on my bike has the effect of it popping through as it over rotates and the brakes stop working. Please be very careful as I found some other videos that are a much better guide to adjusting these types of brakes more safely and in the correct manner.
I'd also suggest you check your calipers for wear as well, the slack might be from the cable stretching and might be from the calipers being worn or both... and a suggestion, never buy a bike with cable disc brakes . Also how do you use the rear brake so much ? I am probably 70/30 ? 70 on the front brake as it has so much more stopping power.
My bike has a brake pad hydraulic hybrid (atheist that's what my bike shop owner says) and I can't figure how to get my brakes to feel like it did when I first got it I go to the bike shop every 3 months can't figure out what wrong help please its a cyrusher xf650
This is a simple mechanical disc brake CABLE adjust. Not a true disc brake adjust. The latter is what many, if not most, bikers need to remedy a variety of issues. Perhaps a title change is needed.
I've only needed to do mine twice so far, the cable just shows a flat spot from where it was originally clamped but otherwise don't look like it will need replacing anytime soon.
