TIME CODES: Pre-Production/Setting Up Camera: 1:34 Production/Filming: 7:00 Post-Production/Editing: 11:13 After several years of shooting with the GH5 and in V-LOG I found that these settings not only work best on the GHALEX LUT in mind but also for REC709 conversion to color grade after. So you can apply this same method from start to finish no matter if planning to use GHALEX or REC709.
Joe, this is an incredible tutorial! Everything was accurate. You really got everything right. Sometimes I see tutorials where GHa is dropped into completely random color workflows, with crazy results! Well done. Btw, I find the new Main preferable to Soft; its the perfect balance of ceiling between Linear and the old 'Sicario Ceiling' of Soft. Also - let those trees at the beginning be green! Arri green is one of the coolest signature Arri things, ya know ;)
Alex Mack WOW! Thanks so much Alex, means a lot especially to know coming from the creator of this amazing product I did it justice. I’ve become a huge nerd/fan for color grading & learning the ins & outs surrounding it. And funny enough you said that about the main I was torn between showing examples of that or soft. I agree that I like how the main like you stated in the pdf is a good middle point between soft & linear. Also yeaaaa I know these greens were amazing in the conversion with your LUTs I’m just usually a fan of the more yellowish side of the hue when it comes to things like those. Thanks again for your comment it really means a lot!!
the goat for this. saw this the other day. went to attempt my colorgrade with ghalex and couldnt find your video. was devistated.. so happy i found it. if i could thumbs up you 5x i would!
Thanks Lance really appreciate it! The GHAlex def has been a great addition to mine & im sure your gh5 workflow. Glad you could re find the video & it’s been helpful for your workflow!
Thank you so much for this excellent tutorial Joe! The whole time my ghalex Lut wasn't working, and thanks to your tut I figured out it was because i hadn't shot my footage in All-i 4k V-Log, but instead in LongGop 150+V-log, which led to my blacks getting absolutely crushed, despite applying the right steps when using the ghalex LUT. Now it's working :D Will just have to invest in another V90 SD card
Thanks for that, good to know they're easy to follow. Trying to make them as easy as possible even if it adds more time onto the video than just rushing through them.
Joe Moore Productions couldn’t agree more. I do the same thing with my camera/filmmaking tutorials. Pack as much knowledge as possible into each video! It’ll make you a more trustable creator 🤙🏼
Great information and easy to understand, and really appreciate all the information listed below in the comments as well, very useful. Thanks, Cindy, Piercing Instincts
Fantastic video, thanks so much! So if we just don't have the space to be recording in ALL-I, then it is okay to record in 4K with the Cine-D profile? This would be much more achievable for me!
Yes if you don't have the capacity currently memory card wise to shoot in the ALL-I option than just follow the format for the Cine-D profile option with conversion to V-LOG. It won't obviously be as good of quality than shooting in the 400 ALL-I option but it's a good alternative.
Hi Joe, great video! Quick question: If using an X-Rite Colour Checker, how essential is it to get the exposure and highlights/mids right when shooting in V-Log All Intra? Many thanks!
Bruh, appreciate this video a lot! You gave me some insight on a few different things. I've been debating about making the switch to Davinci Resolve for my grading, but have been a bit hesitant since everyone says it's a huge difference and more complicated than say color corrections in Premiere. Your tutorial was pretty much str8 forward, so thanks for that. The big question that I have is, can the same settings for the camera be applied to the Gh5S, since the color science is slightly different? That's the cam that I'll be shooting on going forward.
Thanks for the comment!! Glad the tutorial was helpful & easy to follow along with. I wouldn’t say it’s different or more complicated at all when it comes to color correction & grading. Actually, if you learn scopes which you should be no matter what editing software you use Davinci allows you more in depth ways to color & grade your footage. Alex Mack who commented on this video is the creator of this product. This can be used with the gh4/gh5/gh5s & s1h. It’s meant to work with V-Log & Cine D so the color science is not a factor when V-Log is as close to flat/raw image as possible. Hope that helps!!
I have a gh5s and am trying to master v-log, I shoot small real estate and need help- what aperture, shutter speed and iso should I have it set at? Should I keep aperture at lowest point (2.8) always, and then adjust just iso? What do I do with the shutter speed? Please help and thank you!!!
Great video! When you are exposing for skin tones at 55 ire, should the zebras be just showing, or do you dial the exposure down so that the zebras just disappear? Thanks
Just to make sure I’m understanding correctly- so zebra1 at 80% and (in general) try to avoid those being shown in the shot. Zebra2 at 55% and want skin tones to have zebra2 on them in the shot (in general)?
Question, I am using zebras and the waveform to help balance my exposure and that’s helping, but now once that’s done, my question is what do I prioritize to lighten my exposure - aperture, shutterspeed or iso? Like should I keep aperture at a minimum (2.8 on my lens) and then use shutter speed and/or iso to adjust the exposure? Which one should I keep low and which should I be adjusting to move the waveform ? I obviously want to stay away from noise as much as possible, Someone please help I am dying trying to figure this out and I can’t!!!!
ISO is the LAST thing you mess with as this is what will add the noise you’re trying to stay away from. Adjust your Aperture to the lowest you can get it. Your shutter speed should usually be double the frame rate youre shooting in.
The PDF for this LUT specifies how you should be setting the zebra values for Cine-D. If you’re not planning on getting this LUT that has the Cine-D to V-Log convertor & just plan on using the Cine-D profile than you can expose for this in the same way as you would v-log
Joe Moore Productions I already purchased and ran a bunch of tests. Yeah it’s the same as vlog for sure. The footage looks great so far, love this system as it’s perfect for my workflow.
Use a lens that can go low in aperture, ISO should be the last thing you touch & try not to have your histogram showing your image pushed to the left of point of being underexposed/crushed blacks & shadows.
Thanks for this... sorry for the newb question but why do you put those limit range lines on the waveform? Would you not want the values to go to 0 and all the way to the top?
Hey Ed, that's a great question and definitely not a newb question. Yes I set those values in Davinci because I don't want it to go below or above when I'm making adjustments to the curves or shadows, mids, highlights. I'll make sure when I'm filming not to go below or above certain lines and having them set up in Davinci is what the PDF recommends when planning to use the GHAlex LUT. So wouldn't want to make adjustments to the curves or wheels and have the image be blown out or underexposed from edits in Davinci. Hope that helps and makes sense.
Had a question about when you were takin bout converting the slow motion to 24...when you say that are you talking about shooting 60 frames or more and bring it in in post and speeding it up to regular speed or is there actually another way to convert it ?
Big Ben Visions yes I’m talking about selecting the 60FPS when you still want slow motion & vlog option & then converting that 60FPS into 23.976 in post for the slow motion. Only other option would be when I talked about Shooting in 8bit 1920x1080 in cine d then converting to vlog in post.
i don't know if it's me or what. I don't have the 65x nor the Auto black color on my luts. I have the GHALEX V3. Joe, either those are your luts or we clearly not on the same time. Am I the only one whose this grading is goin all wrong on?
Hey hopefully I can help solve this for you. So no matter what version of the GHAlex you purchased. With every update or upgrade that happens to the workflow the creator sends an email out to people who’ve previously purchased & provides links to download the updated zip folder with new additions etc. So go check your email you used to purchase this & check the spam folder you should have been receiving emails from GHAlex. Once you get the updated zip folder you’ll see there’s a 33x option & a 65x option which was available even on the oldest version of this LUT. The auto black color is a new folder within the update version of this LUT, along with some other updates. I’m not using any of my own LUTS & I showed my whole workflow in this video. I think the problem is you just don’t have the updated folder with the new added things like auto black level & exposure increments etc
Cine-D : contrast 0; sat -5; hue 0; luminance 64-940 highlights/shadows 0 . Middle grey (18% grey) should be exposed around 50 IRE. Skin tones between 50-65. The GHAlex LUT has the compensation & auto black levels now though so as long as you don’t crush the blacks or blow the highlights out it has ways to raise your exposure or lower your exposure up to - / + 2.
@@JoeMooreProductions do i understand this correct. While shooting in Cine-d You'll put Zebra 1 for the highlights at 80%? and Zebra 2 for the skintones at 55% ?
And you completely don't care that in your second shot the sky became completely grey? Also, in the original footage the guy in clearly underexposed, looks like you exposed on the sky. You just needed to correctly expose on your subject, set proper white balance while directly on scene, not in post, and then apply curve adjustments as needed, and everything would be correct. You don't need any LUTs for it. This Alex LUT is making so many ad videos without actually any arguments why it's correct.
