A thousand thanks JG, just got done installing the Pioneer's today on my 2016 F-150 XLT and it could not have gone any easier. You sir are an editing genius. Everything that needs to be there is, anything that don't need to be there, ain't. To all the long winded RU-vid publishers please learn from Jason Georgievski on how to edit videos. I have always been afraid of car door panels, but not anymore. Also very happy with the sound, and plan on doing the center and rear soon.
To be honest, when I first saw what we're doing with cutting up the speakers, I was like really? What a hack. But after thinking about it, what you did is the best way to go. Using the factory speaker as a plate, so you can use aftermarket speakers seamlessly, and the stock connector is pretty brilliant honestly. I'm doing the exact same thing in mine most likely.
That's my son who loves the video games. To be honest, he wore me out on games for awhile. Thanks for sharing bro. I'm picking one up today in black, pretty much exactly the same as yours. First thing i'm installing is the tailgate drop assist kit. They don't include it in the xlt (go figure) but all the studs are there, just needs a $60 piston and bracket. After that, speakers are next. Stock are garbage! The head unit is awesome, but they surely cheaped out on those speakers.
Buddy I want to thank you ,, freaking ingenious,, I installed Infiniti kappa speakers,, I thought there's no way these speakers will fit them I saw your video and said wtf,, and it worked ,, did you come up with this ?? Amazing ideal and I couldn't be happier ,, thanks again !!
Great vids! I really appreciate all the extra details on how things go back together correctly. Many videos here on RU-vid don’t show extra details like that.
Hey man thanks for the video, I did the speakers in my 2017 f150 and had not been for your video i probably would of rigged them in and had big air gaps or rattles so thanks again.
Thanks for the great detailed and instructional videos; I watched both your front and rear speaker removal and replacement videos. They were very helpful; it made replacing all the stock speakers on my 2018 Ford F-150 very easy. I installed Kicker speakers and used the existing speaker mounts as you did; they look is so better and clean by using the factory wire connectors. I'm Enjoying some great tunes!
Thanks, made install a breeze. By the time I got around to my 4th door I had door panel removed, speaker switched out and panel back on in 15 min. One thing, it’s not a 9/32 but a 8mm....
Thanks for the great video... just replacing the speakers in my new 2020 F150. Any issue with leaving the tweeters in the front pillars? I was wondering if they caused a bi-pass issue with the tweeters on my new 6x9's in the door???
Great video, thanks. I will be doing this on my 2020 F250 XLT. Since the speakers you used are no longer available, I bought Pioneer TS-D69F and TS-D65S, but neither came with wiring. Should I use 18awg?
Crutchfield.com provides adapters for aftermarket speakers so you don’t have to destroy your factory speakers as well as a plug and play harness so you can save yourself the headache and their prices are better then most websites, I highly suggest them.
Just wondering if it's really worth what seems like considerably more work to solder into the existing harness and use the existing connectors when you clearly have a soldering it and can go buy a cheap pair of connection adapters if they don't come with your purchase and just tap into the wires. I mean, that's what I intend to do when my speakers come. Hell, you don't even need to solder (even though it's a more secure connection) since you can get clamp adapters and go straight to the speaker terminals. While I applaud the utility effort that you did here to reuse everything it seems quite unnecessary considering you coulda just cut the wires and created new connectors that adapt to your aftermarket speakers and saved what seems like 20+ minutes and a lot of potential hassle. This is double-true if you're using crossovers because you'll need to clip the harness anyways to feed the crossover for component speakers which are by-far the better sound stage upgrade vs. the 2-way option (which is easier but also not ever going to match the stage/clarity of component). Good video and well done I just feel like you added steps and you're definitely practiced enough to do this in a way that's honestly quicker/easier and CAN be just as secure if you still solder your connections. Thanks for the vid though - plenty to take from it regardless.
Yes and Yes. I will be upgrading to a secondary amp again just like I did on my 2013 focus ST. see those videos if you want to get an idea of what I mean.
I added the same speakers and I have an amp already yet my front passenger speaker is not working it only make a thump sound and it goes up but that's it and I tried it on my other door and it works on that side any ideas what it would be I do have an amp running
Just took my door off like you did (by hanging it on the door latch wire) and now if I give my door a push it just bounces off. But if I close my door softly there’s no issue.
Sounds like the door cable came undone, or is hung up on something. the other end of the cable should be sitting inside of a cup on the door latch side. if it is stuck on the edge of the cup, wiggle it inside of the cup.
Hi there. Thanks a lot for your down to earth instruction. My question is as follows. I have replaced my A - Pillar tweeters with the Fosgates that you used and holy cow what a difference!!!!!! Next, I will replace my door speakers using your videos on my 2015 F150. 1. I noticed the pioneers you installed have a crossover on them. Do my replacments need this also? Do all aftermarket 6 x 9s have this? 2. Should i use a 4 ohm or a 2 ohm speaker? 3. High efficiency speaker? 90 or above? 4. I i use a 2 way or 3 way Pioneer, etc will highs from the tweeter be directed to the 6 x 9 tweeter? Thanks again. Joe Malcom
looking to install these speakers. I get a message from vendors saying they do not fit the truck ( 2018 f150 crew cab). Looks like they fit from the video, only alteration is the speaker bracket???
Hey I got my speakers in did infinity kappas all around sounds great. I did however have one problem my driver side door won’t close when I shut the door it stays open idk why I pulled the panel off again and it seemed to solve the issue for a few days but it came back has anybody had this issue. If so how did you fix it. ?
Did you install these before you changed the tweeters to the Rockford Fosgate P1T-S? Just curious why you went with coaxials, and not components for the doors
You sir are a pro. I have a 2016 f150 super crew and am looking to replace the front speakers with Rockford punch 6x9s and rear Rockford 6.5. Are these good speakers to run without an amp for now? I listen to mainly rock and some jam band stuff. Just want a good balance of bass punch and mids right now.
If I were you I wouldn’t bother putting an amp. It’s not all that great. My first time installing one and it was pretty easy lost my chimes and the sounds ok it’s crisp but nothing like I imagined. I thought it was gonna sound like the best thing in the world. It’s ok. Not all that. I should have just stopped when I installed all my doors speakers. I did infinity all the way around 6x9 in front and 6.5 in the back.
If I'm not mistaken the OEM clips carry crossovers in them, which is the only benefit to reusing the OEM harness and lead connector. Kia does this too - I'm pretty sure this is standard practice. There is NO SUCH THING AS FULL RANGE IN COMPONENT SYSTEMS. Your woofer will have a LPF setup and your tweeters will have a HPF setup as well. If not, you MUST have the ability to filter frequencies which is only possible with an EQ/amp device or a stereo system with more advanced sound controls. The people saying otherwise are full of it - no offense to them but that's not how the audio works and I question anyone that says otherwise. The door speakers are not full range unless you remove the harness which includes a crossover which filters out the higher frequencies. Same goes for the tweeters which filter out frequencies below something in the range of 3500-5000 Mhz. This is what Ford is doing in their OEM system. If you're installing components and try to reuse the hardnesses this will be the case. If you're using 2-way speaker you must cut the harness off (you shouldn't use it anyways - it's a cheap crossover plug that can be bypassed with connectors). I know this is way late to your comment but that's the case. If you are getting "full range" frequencies in your door speakers then you didn't reuse the crossover harness that Ford has and the video author used here (or your Ford didn't come with crossovers). You'd never, ever, ever, ever want high frequencies coming out of your woofer. That's how you get shitty audio and can risk ear damage via audio fatigue which only occurs when frequencies aren't being properly handled. Typically that's a harsh sound and you can EQ that out a bit to make it less damaging but you run that risk (plus using wrong frequencies on a specific cone/woofer can damage the woofer).
Great video man, but you installed the door panel and forgot to plug the speaker in at 10:25 I can imagine the frustration after finishing up and realizing that
Yeah good call. I bought some 6x9's and 6.5s. Now to wire in my sub and amp. Cant use my old head unit with equalizer settings either, I'm opening a giant can of worms here. To get what I want its gonna be a way bigger investment than it took for the 2003 lol.
Yeah I kinda figured that, thanks for the info man. It's unfortunate since I used to really like tuning individual frequencies and q factors to get the exact sound I want. I'll probably just settle for an amp/sub set up with a gain control remote.
What happened to the good old days of taking the speaker cover off the door unscrewing the speaker unplugging it putting the new speaker in put the cover back. Why are they wanting whole door panels taken off this is ridiculous
Robert Draper There was a time when manufacturers considered the aftermarket modification and DIY repair communities needs during the design phase. Now, they only consider how to maximize profits, which results in cheaper parts.
Yes and they're much easier to use and just as reliable. This is basically the long division way of doing this install and it's very resourceful but honestly if you buy the adapters you can straight-clip your existing factory wires and convert them to the newer connectors for aftermarket and I'd highly encourage everyone to go that route if time and simplicity matter to you at all. If you're replacing OEM speakers with OEM speakers then you don't need to do ANY of this outside of removing the panel and unplugging the speaker and swapping out with new speaker. You'd still reuse the factory wiring (not sure why the vid creator insinuates you can't continue to use factory wiring) and be just fine. Of course, if you're building out a high-power system that is going to use ~ 120 watts (or more) RMS/ 350 Watt speak per channel then you probably need to replace the factory wire with aftermarket pure-copper oxygenated wire that is either equivalent gauge or slightly thicker (most OEMs use 18-22 gauge wire depending on the system installed). The higher quality wire with a little more thickness ensures a consistent power delivery to your speakers and when you're heating up those wires with more than 100W RMS per channel you'll start to encounter resistance that limits the performance of your speakers and could in theory damage them if you're cranking them up frequently. Just a thought. TLDR? Yes, there are adapters and they're much more easy to install and don't require soldering and still very reliable.
+Jason Georgievsk ok thanks nar vibe is like a better branded speaker that we have in Australia vibe audio they call them selfs they work really well had them in all my cars
@@AustinMcMinn You can't blow a speaker by underpowering it. If you've heard someone say that go punch them in the face and never listen to advice they have about audio ever again. You can only blow speakers by feeding them frequencies they're not designed to handle (like a tweeter trying to play an 800 Hz frequency when the manufacturer warns you the cutoff capability is ~5,000 MHz. The other way to do it is overpower the speaker, which you can do but the rule of thumb the pros offer is absolutely do not overpower by more than 25% of the speaker's typical rating (RMS is more important than peak in this case when choosing which number to follow). So a 125W RMS signal to a 100W RMS speaker is the threshold before you really do risk destroying the speaker over time. This is possible because you're not typically playing your stereo system at 100% volume so you're very, very rarely feeding it much more power than the 100W RMS that this theoretical speaker is rated for. The 8" HU offers some OK power and I'm about to rip mine out here in the next 2 weeks but typically I've seen anywhere from 20W RMS to 30W RMS per channel. I figure the speakers in the OEM 7 speaker system (non-Sony) are closer to 30W RMS or maybe even slightly more, because it's a 7 speaker system and it gets rather loud it just doesn't handle the wide range of frequencies as well at higher volume and does begin to fault at those higher volumes, but it still gets fairly loud so there's even a chance we're talking 35W RMS per channel here and that's a good amount of power (if that's the case) for an OEM to push and you'll be able to get a decent sound out of even really good speakers that are rated for much more power, though you'll never get the full potential with stock decks, which is why adding an amp is always the way to go with aftermarket, and they're not all that difficult to wire up if you have an accurate diagram to work off of.
