Hey Danny Man This is the Gabacho from Laredo:) We can definitely build a couple of tricked engines together… Ford 4.6 2V Late 80’s 5.0 And maybe a Coyote
DAN..Really enjoy your Upbeat, Generous, Sharing/Caring Vibe. Thought I would share this with you and the good folks that view your Newly Minted Channel.... A useable piston ring gap mill can be made by a patient DYIer out of a flat top piston. You won't save many $ BUT it will sharpen your basic skills with hand tools and a drill press. Making your own tools has the added advantage of pride in ownership, confidence building and realizing you can fail, start over and eventually succeed. An added bonus is you may actually build a tool superior to those that currently exist. So, check out your scrap bin... it might just turn something into a tool that serves you for a lifetime. Miles O' Smiles to YaAll.
I never seen a ring file before, from here looks easier and safer for the piece that work at than with the file; here in the 1st year in the highschool of automotion and metal they teach you to adjust it "all" manualy, mainly with the file. Very good tips.
I love these videos, I'm in the process of watching them all. I want to own my own shop one day, currently work as an inspector for Toyota. Keep up the content!
Thanks so much for your clear instructions, and I love the part about using the file in the vice. I saw a comment about that once before, but never saw it demonstrated. Thanks a lot!
According to Wiesco You should never file both ends of the same ring..... file your gap by filling only ONE end of the ring... 😊 Which you correct yourself at 8 minutes into the video. Great video by the way...
Nice job editing! Kept the content, kept the humor, and the length was reasonable. Do I sense a cake making video in the future? If we could only stream the added content in your head, while you're still not monetized, I'm sure it would be hilarious!👍👍
The word you were looking for was OCD. I have it too. Everyone has it to some degree. And you know what, its like a superpower. Like all great superpowers it has its downsides, but i would rather have it than not ;)
You're videos were so informative and helpful, thank you for doing these! Question, What are you using on the piston to put the rings at the measuring depth?
Hi Daniel, I have a 1963 Willy's Jeep and I restored the jeep and it was smoking really bad so I pulled the head and am installing new rings. The pistons look good and the Cylinders look good, the Cylinder measures 3.123, spec is 3.125 but when I put the Hasting 828 new standard rings on I have a .049 which is way to much. What is your suggestion? Thank you Steve
An option is to hone the cylinders straight (no taper) have Totalseal make you custom rings and have your pistons knurled. In a perfect world you would want .012-.013 but remember that this an overhaul and for every .001 of cylinder wear you have to times it by .314 It’s going to run just fine. If you want to make it perfect then have it bored and get pistons may be cheaper.
I was just thinking, all the blocks in your shop look immaculate. I realise its probably a boring topic to get a question on because its not technically interesting. But when I started my project and disassembled everything: I was left with an oily cast iron block. The coolant passages passages had just very small amount of rust (normal) I then degreased and deep cleaned the entire block as much as possible by hand scrubbing for hours, then i sprayed it all off, then blow dried it with compressed air. I tried to protect sensitive areas with WD40 immediately after blowing it off. It obviously flash rusted a little on the exterior, coolant passages and some a little on the inside of the crank case. My first question is how much does this actually matter? Am i being paranoid about the flash rust specifically in the crank coming off and acting like grinding paste after assembly even if i blow it it down one final time before putting it together? The block im actually taking to the machine shop to have bored to fit oversized pistons, so being paranoid about the above im tempted to ask them to clean it (i presume with some sort of acid tank and whatever else you wizards do to make it immaculate) I would be interested to know what you do at your shop for this? How would you do it if you had to do it at home? It then gets worse, because when it comes back from the machine shop, i need to do a "final clean" i presume with just a crap load of brake clean and brushes to make sure any contaminants or metal leftovers from the machining process is gone. Will i not get some flash rusting again at this point? Will i arrive back at question 1? Assuming i want to then paint the cast iron block before assembly, what primer/paint/coatings would you recommend? This all got me thinking you being the wizard that you are must have already discovered the optimum process for this problem and how to go about it? (TO LONG DIDNT READ - sorry for the wall) How do you get your iron blocks so immaculate and painted? Thanks!!! :):)!
