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I take it he didn't find the leak before he blew himself up lmao I'm sorry theses days with people u mite be telling the truth. Thats kinds scary 😨 lol
First thing to do, replace the gasket on your gas Cap. Esp if the car is old. this will cost you around $20 or less. I got this evap code, reset it, a week later it came back, I checked my gas cap and it didn't really feel snug like a new one, so I checked online and I found a recommendation to replace gasket. worked for me.
Initially I was disappointed not seeing the direct fix, but once you got to the details, I began to appreciate the video. Really informative and educative.
Good to see you back again. The way I was taught, basically open loop means that the computer isn't using the oxygen sensor/s to determine the fuel control strategy. It uses the TPS, MAP, MAF, and all other engine input sensors, but ignores the oxygen sensor/s reading. Closed loop means it uses all of the above plus the oxygen sensor/s.
Not sure why people are saying this is too long. It’s a great explanation. Nice to have an understanding. I don’t need the expensive machine because most auto parts stores can get you the code. But I do like to understand the big picture in the system that I’m throwing parts at.
Thank you for making the video. You are a natural teacher. I really appreciate the background information that really helped me understand how the evap system works. I assume that, if the purge valve had been good then the next step would be to pull and check the valve by the gas tank. I think I will be able to fix my car now thanks to your video.
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!!! This was totally the problem.. Changed the purge valve $42.00 @Advance Auto.. 15min to change.. Mechanic charged $40.00 for his time.. Awesomeness.. Pass Georgia emissions no problem!!
BEFORE you watch this long video, which is well done, know that it is not about "How find a small evap leak without a smoke machine" but rather is is about how to understand the evap system and use an expensive professional scanner, IT IS NOT ABOUT HOW TO ISOLATE A LEAK (hopefully that is in part 2, yes there is a part 2 even though this vid is not called part 1.
Great video. Really shows how generic troubleshooting techniques always remain valuable. A note to young mechanics, use your head and pay attention. Your time will be spent less on troubleshooting and more on helping your clients and that makes for return customers.
One of the best explanations i have EVER seen.... you explained the entire cycle.... I keep getting "Depollution system faulty" in Peugeot (its a plague in these cars!), i even have thier Computer the agency once no clue yet.... it causes the car to go rough and engine to rattle. I'm doing the smoke trick near engine and going to check the fuel pump (checked the fuel filter seemed new, and cleared it myself even)
Awesome video, both parts. I don't consider myself a "car guy", just a "cheap guy". I hate to pay someone for repairs I can do myself. The evap system was always a mystery to me. Thanks for the thorough explanation, so I'm not just shotgun throwing parts at it. My hat is off to you kind sir.
Wow, not surprised, but people have short attention spans. I guess this sorts out the good mechanics from the mediocre ones. Really appreciated this video and thought it was well instructed and well produced. The point he makes (which those with lazy attention spans will never understand) is that a little critical thinking in advance and a good understanding of how the systems work saves time and parts costs in the end, because rather than just diving in and randomly swapping out parts (at your customer's cost), we try to pinpoint the most likely cause of the problem from the start using the information the car is giving you. The answer is there - but you need to learn how to analyze the data first. Too bad more mechanics don't take this approach. Will be watching more of his videos. Totally impressed.
Great post. I just hate the fact that these critical valves (purge and vent) are such a pain in the butt to get to. My 2006 Avalanche is a real pain...
sure appreciate your videos wish i had more years of life left to understand all you do, even then i wouldn't, memory is a downfall of mine. thanks for your videos. you know allot electrical, mechanic etc. thanks again for illustrations.
You'd make a great teacher. That was an informative, succinct description on EVAP. I do pray that my trouble are only a gas cap with the p0456 code. Now onto part 2
Excellent tutorial. Thank you so very much~! I'm a 70 year old woman and my 40 year old daughter and I are determined to fix this problem. LOL. However, if I were near you, I'd bring it to you for a fixin~!!
this is very professional (MTM),I have watched your videos for years , Im glad to have found you videos and teaching, I have made a donation. I will subscribe t o your channel
After watching parts 1 and 2, a smoke test would not find this type of small internal valve leak, so we get a lesson on second level diagnostics for evap. To those critical of his fancy computer, getting good data need not be expensive..Various OBDII scanners are avail from ebay or amazon for like $22 (bluetooth to smart phone) or USB to your laptop. You can download and use several free apps or buy cheap add-ons to decode much the same data as the $4500 computer produces. The main limitation is your investment in time and understanding how to maximize the apps and what the significance of the data is.
This is so amazing. If you can pay some attention and listen, you will end up saving a lot of money, but then again you need some common sense to do that. Absolutely awesome. Thank you sir.
Nice explanation, Duane. I've never found Freeze Frame data to be valuable for diagnosing EVAP systems, since the monitors generally run at cruising speed, but the test result/MIL command can be issued at any time...any thoughts?
A very good and informative video, so funny some people commented the video that is not helpful or saying that too much of a talk. If you guys are only thinking of fixing the problem without understanding what is happening to your engine there's two things thst might gonna happen, either your car engine problem migjt get worst or you fix it right. I like the way he explained everything as i clearly understand how things works👍. By then if you send your car at the shop, those greedy mechanics will not be able to fool you the way they steal money from our pocket. Regarding with the tester he used, he's not promoting and or selling what he's using i guess, it's just that, that's what they are using in their shop? We shiuld be glad and appreciate this kind of person sharing us some information what to look for if there's some problem in our car engine.
This is all for OBD-II vehicles that have scan tools, PID's, and enhanced monitors. OBD-I (vehicles made before 1996) have it much harder. Still a great video. The diagram and description of the evap system is spot on. Not all vehicles have electronic canister vent valves or pressure sensors. Have to take all of this into account when diagnosing a vehicle and adapt these procedures for the vehicle design that you are working on.
+DJDevon3 Never seen a pre-OBDII vehicle set an EVAP leak code...so there's nothing to worry about! On that note, I find it silly for the "Check ENGINE" light to come on for issues that have nothing to do with the engine/driveability.
motoYam82 Not setting an evap leak code (because it doesn't exist on your OBD-I vehicle) is even worse. Good luck figuring out there's an evap problem. :P You might get a faulty solenoid code if you're lucky but that's about it.
+DJDevon3 But the system itself is simpler with no canister valve, since there's no need to check for leaks anyways. The only electronic part is the purge valve which could fail mechanically and not set a code. Otherwise you just use your nose to check for leaks...if it smells like gas fumes, you have a leak lol
To add to my previous post about checking the easiest thing first and my issue being the purge valve on a 2015 Charger, it took more than a squirt of WD-40 to loosen things up. The valve required some throttle body cleaner as well as a couple shots of WD-40 but I think it's finally loosened up. One thing of note is that it's NOT a completely ON-OFF type solenoid in my case. Bluedriver OSB-II shows that it is analog in nature meaning it's variable. New valve is about $25 without tubing to manifold or about $40 with tubing to manifold. This matters because tubing to manifold is difficult (but not impossible) to remove from valve.
