I like the picture in picture display of this video. Your transparency on why you use certain sites and suppliers speaks to your integrity. I do have to admit, I got lost in the jargon, being naïve to this kind of work. I will just ship my receivers to you for repair or updating.
When I first got into the hobby, I bough a kit off eBay. It was good for a first rebuilt. It was missing a few parts. However, that forced me to look to Mouser and other places for parts. But overall, I would recommend a kit if you are just getting into the hobby and are intimidated by putting your first kit together. Sometimes, Mouser is so big that until you get a feel on how to find parts on their website, it can be frustrating. Great video. I even learned some search techniques for parts!!! Thank you.
I was introduced to DigiKey in the late 70s and just about part I ever needed could be found there. This was before online catalogs and My printed DigiKey Catalogs were always on my desk by my radios (as a licensed amateur radio operator) and were a most important reference. Because of these proprietary devices in almost all modern Consumer Electronic products, they render most of these devices for all practical purposes unserviceable but these classic stereo devices like Pioneer, Marantz, (fill in the blank), etc. are serviceable and can possibly outlast by decades almost every stereo component in today’s modern marketplace. Our contemporary disposable electronic mentality is filling our landfills with devices. There is a bit of hypocrisy in talking about going “green” and saving the planet while on the other hand consumers are supporting industries that creating these very issues. 🤨 oh don’t get me wrong, it’s an important issue but let’s not ignore or turn a blind’s eye to what is going on. My old classic gear is going on 4 decades of use, still sounds good, has had only very minor service issues and in the meantime in the last 10 years I’ve had 3 modern TV’s fail due to proprietary device issues making them landfill fodder. For 30 years I owned a CRT based Motorola TV and it took a lightning strike and survived (so did my late 1970 JVC and older KLH receivers) while other devices got fried. Thanks for sharing your presentation on sourcing replacement parts for these great classic devices.
I find that most of the time the transistors and diodes are good, there are a handful of transistor types that are known to go bad and should be replaced.
I wonder if you know how to find the replacement coil on the 2270 in the fm detector P500 board. It's a dual coil but not marked with a part number and the Marantz manual just has Marantz part numbers. I think it might have been made by Toko but not sure. It's like a treasure hunt.
The finding of the semiconductor devices is the hardest part. I bought the replacement T03 devices on Mouser for a Sansui G-8700DB receiver, ON semiconductor MJ21194G and MJ21193G. I used them on a Marantz 2275 and had no issues with them. I do want to replace the driver transistors on the driver boards, as well as some small transistors less the differential pair, which I think is a FET dual package. I have not had luck tracking down the replacements for the OEM devices. So much current running through the resistors on those boards melted solder on the board and the resistors fell out, one side anyways. The 3.9 ohm slow start resistor on the relay is open also. When the owner found out how far gone it is, he said keep it. This is now my basket case project to learn on.
I have a Sansui QR4500. What is the electrical piece (male connection) on the receiver called? The part the cord plugs into broke and I’d like to replace. Please help
I have a 424 if I remember the model number right that I am going to pop my cherry on never did any electronic work other than my Radio Shack kit electronic kit. I have had this receiver for years and got out of stereo for years and it just collected dust it was a beast never let me down never not worked. I want to replace all the caps and major cleaning on the pots I think I might have one bad vol its a two part pot and the shaft is bent but I dont know it it goes all the way through and the pot is damaged . I am looking forward to tearing it apart and learning
I've got a Marantz 2270 that I bought in the PX in Japan in 1974. It's 98% perfect, but I believe some of the internal components are aging. I'm trying to find someone in Pennsylvania who can look at it and give me a rough idea of how much it would cost to make it 100%. Any ideas?
The highs are rolling off my aging ears, but I still appreciate good sound. How do you know things are bad, or need replacing (caps, transistors, etc)?
You are the reason why I am now addicted to vintage Receivers! Thank you! I'm trying to get my selector back into the track on my 4220 Marantz. How do you get those metal pins back in position that are on both sides of the selector housing
This may be your best video yet. I am just getting into doing repairs myself. The biggest challenge is building an inventory of parts. I have very little at this time. I have heard that the cap kits aren't always good quality and that ebay caps can be counterfeit.
yes even the cap kits with audio grade caps use the cheapest bottom of the audio line caps to profit the most, ur best bet is to just get the schematics and make a list of all the caps needed and order
Check out the companies that make caps for instrument amps. Pros rely on them and are usually good quality,tho i don't know ifthe values you need are available. Worth an email i bet.
Great informative video. I recently shifted my interest to vintage audio equipment and this will help a lot. Thanks & looking forward to more of your vids.
I am fixing audio gear from the 80,s, now I buy 90% of my parts from Digikey, Newark and Mouser. Today the counterfeit market is huge, is better to buy parts from trusted sellers. Best Regards.
So many functions in vintage gear is no longer useful today. Maybe consider repurposing as power amps.Far less work and cost but can really add to your system.
It's just what I use. Any audio grade cap from a reputable brand being sold by an authorized dealer like Mouser or Digikey (to avoid counterfeit parts) will work.
why replace diodes and transitors? do you only mean if they are failed or causing issues or do you just go around replacing everything? i actually just dropped an amp off with a guy yesterday for a recap (younger enthusiast like us), i asked about replacing film caps or anything else and (especially for marantz) he just laughed and said dont touch anything
I haven't seen too many diode failures but they're cheap and easy to replace. In my experience, the vast majority of repairs I've done have involved a failing transistor so that's why I replace them. I have a video coming up on a Pioneer SX-737 that will talk about this.
Parts-Express sells all kinds of pots for fixing equipment. They also sell components for building speakers and cross-over networks. They have electrolytic capacitors as well but they're just cheap general purpose caps. If you want the nicer electrolytic caps for restorations just stick with Mouser or Digi-Key. They have a much bigger offering. :)
Man....you've just gave me heart palpitations and probably rise my tension :) IT'S NOT THAT EASY !!! Changing parts with modern ones, WILL CHANGE the entire voiceing in a vintage gear. You will make a MARANTZ to sound like a JVC. In the mid '70s (GOLDEN ERA), companies developed unique voiceing in their sound, like a trademark. For example: MARANTZ sounds let'say fatty-greasy-neutro-musical, and somewhat lasy. As for JVC, sound is light-musical-sparkling, and tighter than Marantz. SANSUI/MacINTOSH are like honey in mid-hi region (makes me throw up, to sweet for me) PIONEER - exagerated musical....and so on! I have some roules. Here is some of them: - Stick as much as posible with capacitors original brand (ELNA sounds more soft, compared with NICHICON, who is a little bit metallic) - ESR is VERY IMPORTANT!!! Those recievers/amps was not been designed with LOW ESR capacitors. If you put that in vintage gear, in the signal path, current will pass more faster, and the original sound will be compromised. Soundstage will dissapear, and entire sound will be thinner, fast, and more towards you, like a wall...yelling at you. NO depth/soundstage! If you can't find let's say NIPPON CHEMICON, better replace them with general purpose SAMWHA. SCOTT used Samwha in A series 1975. Part of them produced in Korea. Those made in USA have RUBYCON caps. Sounds the same. - Stay away from WIMA in signal path, especially in pre amps, tone control... if is not a modern equipment. Cheaper polyester are much better. If you still want WIMA, consider changing their values, and add some capacitance. WIMA makes the entire sound goes UP! Frequency response is not the same. - Stay with carbon resistors if the gear is made with them. Film resistors have modern/comercial sound. With few exceptions. - For transistors even a bigger problem! Nowdays ON SEMI, are soft, very musical...somewhat comercial sound. You do a great job, we need people like you-young technicians....but i'm afraid that YOUR EARS ARE YOUNG TOO!!! So chill down a beat, LISTEN different music generes, and educate your ears! Read forums, test those theories There are many good tech people in the world, but majority don't have a clue how those amplifiers supose to sound! Please belive me....a vast majority of so called "audiophiles" have exactly the same theory: "improvements" Wima, Low esr caps....and when i listen that....my hair goes up! If you put them in a blind test, they cannot reconize a TDA 1541 vs Burr Brown PCM. I made that mistake too, and i had to recap it again It's logical: they put new material for improved measurements, and sound is diferent. If you put alloy/copper/silver speaker cables, they will sound verry verry different, despite their measurements (inductance/capacitance). GOOD MEASUREMENTS doesn't mean GOOD SOUND! I've seen people who builds great amplifiers, with most expensive materials...but with famuos old schematics. WORK OF ART!!! And sounds like a showell dragged on concrete! Don't hurry, learn first about vintage sound, explore it. All the wishes!!!
I like this comment. At first I thought you were going to be one of those “don’t change anything!” guys… an endless debate. But what you are saying is valid. The specific choices make a difference. It would be great if you gave a detailed video on what your discoveries are. Seriously. On the other hand what this guy is doing here is helping people get started in the process of selecting parts, his suggestions are certainly helpful to someone looking for guidance. Otherwise you go on a site and are overwhelmed with choices. You’re three levels past that and there is certainly room for both.
Those two big caps from the amplifier board....they are special output caps, for AC current. They block DC, and let AC passing. They let the entire band of frequencies pass very well. That's why they are BIGGER. You can read read the printing on them. It says: 1000 or 2200 micro at 50 or 63 volts AC!!! They are hard to find, and very expensive.You cannot replace them with caps made for filtering purpose! Filtering purpose caps let AC and DC passing!!! They are made to filter mainly around 50 hz!!! Of course, you can put them, they work, BUT the sound is more tight. Can't have that RELAXED sound of the old ones! You can measure DC at output....and if it's 0,1-0,2v, is OK. Leave them in place.
