I want to use your method, but I do not want to do it automatically. I want to understand what I am doing, and why am i doing, so if you please, tell me. When, with your Ohm meter, connecting to the right side of the first power inductor (the coil) you receiving an indication of zero, you say that there is no short. As far as I know, when between to points or components there is no resistance, this means that these two points or components are not communicate between each other. So why, if the right side of the coil do not connect with the ground, this means that there is no short ? On the other side (the left side of the coil) there is an indication of 0.001 Ω which is probably near zero, and it is also means that there is not connection. But you said that there is a short. On the rest of coils, you received a indication of normal resistance (a few Ω), that means that there is a connection between these coils and the ground, and the conclusion is that there is not a short in both sides of the coils. And something else. When you saying that there is not short from this side of the coil what exactly do you mean ? Is there an area on the motherboard on this side that contains a shorted component ? And what are the limits of this area ? Thanks
The ones on my macbook pro, two say 15-16, two say 5.1 or so, one says 3.2, two are really high, and two have no reading just say 1 can you say where the short is? This is my first time using a multimeter but i had it set to 200 ohm
Yo bro I have a hp laptop that when I try to turn it on with the power switch the led turns on then off super fast and then nothing happens I think it's some sort of short but the charger led stays on I'm not sure what the problem is?
Ok so basically you test ohms, then if you get bad reading you isolate part (desoldering one side) and if it's low ohms on side that is desoldered it's ok and on other side isolation of part helps pinpoint bad coil, am I right?
hi if the charger light blink when u contacted to laptop that's mean there is shorte in the input voltage for adaptor u need to check Mosfet in the circuit probably one of them short
@How Not To with a 9 volt battery in the meter, in ohms mode you risk burning lots of things,no? cpu runs at around 1 volt,no? thanks you need DIODE mode...
@How Not To get ANOTHER METER and measure the VOLTS on the probes of the first multimeter in BOTH cases; you´ll see the DANGER of the high voltage there,for a CPU that works off 1 Volt only , me thinks *"the chief has spokin"*
hey there.. i hve a problem with my laptop - its on top condition but lately been powering off on its own. its getting worse. i try to detect several problems at first it seems like hardware so i check each of them turns out the fan connection to the mobo was a lil bit loose - if i dont press it tightly to the mobo it wont turn but it makes noises. so i changed the fan and thought that it would solve the prob but it happens again. hmm what do you think? i tried pulling out every hardware to try to run the test - seems all is working. (tried them on different laptops too)
thanks for replying! at first the usb board was faulty before the prob happened. i dont really know much - but when it was plugged in the motherboard it wont turn on - it works only after i unplug the usb board. the prob might start from there? gee i dont know - if i detach all hardware including ram and hdd how will i detect the problem? for all i know it might be the motherboard :( buying a new one would cost me about 100$ ... would you recommend how to know which hardware might be faulty? for all i know the hardware includes ram, the keyboard, the system fan , the internet card, the bluetooth card, and the secondary usb board... :D
also - the symptoms of the power off problem previously was when i am watching videos. it turns of quickly especially if i watch streaming videos. if i play video from my hard drive it powers off too but not as quickly as when i was streaming. then about a month later it started to power off when i play games! it powers of once or twice then finally it would last me longer - but eventually powers off as well. and then now its gotten much worse - even when its idle and even during sleep it would power off on its own. that much is what i can give you! what do you think?
the heat of the processor and graphics card are alright - it always stays around 60 celcius if im using it for games. other than that, idle state or even doing some work (multimedia or browsing using chrome) it always stays around 40 - 50. checked it using RealTemp and speedfan
Sir, My laptop power port was broken. So I soldered the port. It was running well. But unfortunately for the second time it was broken. I soldered again, may be shorted. :(. Right when I plugged the charger in I noticed a quick and small smoke and a spark on my mother board. I cant find out the faults, I would be very happy if you can help me out.
I think the idea of lifting a coil is a god one... *EDIT* TERRIBLE DOUBT»»» the ohmmeter has a 9 (NINE!) volt battery inside and it applies it all in the 200 ohm scale ( ««don't»» touch the probes to your tongue, you'll see,feel,the 9 volts; question: is it safe to probe around those circuits that may be of only 1 volt ,with those probes infected with 9 volts of coronicvirus? thanks
This really is pretty Stupid. You know initially there is a short. So this then confirms there is a short. Big deal. Then what ?? Throw the motherboard away ? You need to show how to track it down not just confirm there is a short.
