How to Find Super Deep Silver Coins Others Have Missed! Metal Detecting Secret Tips 

Get a better detector that has been proven to go deep on coins, Sensitivity, gain, controls are pretty much the same on detctors, Smaller coils in trahy areas , 5 to 8 inches work bertter than larger coils you recommend for depth in mineral /trash areas. For a 149 dollars retail you can buy a Quest X5 that will get 8 inch or deeper mercury dimes all day with a small 5x9 in coil; i am not affiliated with Quest metal detectors other than owning several.

+Jim Bonito (RC Obsession) Glad you enjoyed it GL and HH!

Thanks Captn!

Thanks bud =)

Thanks Gregg GL and HH =)

+PluGG Life Good luck! Your best fake confidence face will turn into your best real confidence face eventually =)

+UpperCanada Hunter Thanks for watching and HH to you too =)

+rcochran46 Appreciate the nice feedback and glad you learned some stuff =) My dad has been detecting since the 70's too and we learn a lot from each other. He taught me on those old analog detectors growing up and now with all this "new technology" I'm teaching him and setting his stuff up lol

I think that's such a cool thing you pointed out Cutaplug, how your dad taught you how to detect on the old analog machines, and now that you're a grownup, you come full circle and can help your dad understand and set up the new technology based detectors!!! It reminded me of how I was able to actually help my own dad understand some newer technology based things, after him helping me learn things very important to myself all my life, nothing felt better to me than those few times when I was able to help him, and I know you felt the same way! You'll always remember those moments spent with your dad! It's obvious you're both very good people as well, I've been subscribed and watching and learning from your videos awhile now, and its another case of the young teaching the older person in my case as well, I really admire and appreciate that you not only share your videos, but that you even went above and beyond that by taking the time and effort to prepare and put this presentation together to show others and help them learn to find the truly DEEP Silver coins and do it consistently!!!! Thank you very much for providing this information to those of us that want to become better at this great hobby!!!

+Don C Thanks so much for the kind words Don! It's comments like yours that make me want to make more videos =) My Dad has been an amazing person all my life. I was lucky enough to have a great dad and really enjoy spending time with him. Funny thing is he still doesn't even have a computer or smart phone but give him the right audio settings and he'll pull silver like crazy lol.

And the old ones, in the hands of the real pros, can do pretty much as good, if not better then (many but not all) of the modern ones. Example; Garrett ADS Deepseeker/ 12" on a dime(air test which is a rough test) but much less efficient in battery usage of course, lol. Also, let's not forget the Whites 6000Di Pro. Appx. 17" on a quarter. Now, do they require skill to set up? Definitely and if there's no instruction manual and/or the operator has forgotten how to set it up, well, GOOD LUCK!! Lol. BUT, when the old G.E.B's are set up properly, watch out! They can be at (least) as good as many to most, modern detectors. And the fact that they are non-motion makes them better at pinpointing then the slower rec. speed/resp. time (V.L.F motion) modern detectors. Some VLF's, granted, are faster than others though.

@@cutaplug can you tell me where I can go hunt

+Jay bird2963 Very true! I've always wondered if I put as many hours on a Tesoro as I have the e-trac and CTX if I would be able to call the signals like I do on the Minelab machines. Is it possible to guess with that high of an accuracy on the analogs? I just haven't had the patience to try lol

Cutaplug Metal Detecting Un

Metal detecting in the Woodlands , Texas

Thanks Frorest glad you liked it and glad to be back =)

Awesome thanks =)

Great example! I've done that too and even walked away and came back to signals cause they were bugging me =) GL and HH

Sorry I've never owned a Safari. Maybe some experienced users could steer you in the right direction on that. The settings I mention on the vid are pretty universal so I think they would apply to the Safari too.

That's the first step in learning the how to,and why to digging for TREASURE.learn toned, you will pull treasure.its that simple,and dumbluck is always the deal.adk people for permission and it's on.ho get em kid GL& HH

Thanks Tony! I agree that is probably the number one mistake from new detectorists and its sad to think they might even quit the hobby due to simply lack of understanding.

Thanks Tony. So true, so true and more people wouldn't be giving up on this hobby if they didn't get so overwhelmed by the 'advice' of all those bloviators.

Good luck with the GTI =)

Seriously, I have an AT PRO and have no problem digging 6 inches? At 6 inches an SLQ should be loud and clear! Call Garrett!

+Frank Pizzo I sent my three month old AT pro to Garrett today. They best send me a new one, or I will be done with them. I have covered too many locations to be digging clad, and can slaw with the rwnown go to detector

Hey Wayne, Don't feel bad man. I was digging (nothing but) can slaw and thick foil and pull tabs from this one park and only one lousy penny in 3 hours to show for it. I know how it feels and it sucks! And I was using a (very) deep machine in this park. How about digging 13" plug just to find a stupid lousy ring tab from that depth? Boy, I don't know where all the 'goodies' have gone but I'm really 'feeling the suck' too. Been unlucky with few coins to show for the last couple years now (even though), I use the deepest and quickest machines.

Thanks for the input Dave! Sounds like you're getting some good stuff even in the poor soil conditions GL and HH =)

B detecting I just look for old maps or go to the local library or historic society. There are a lot of different ways to find out if a park is old just looking at the houses across the street from it can help too.

Get the at pro it's not too hard to learn with but our money will be spent well

Neither nannerin. These are VERY complicated and sound on many targets at once. To an untrained beginner's ears, all these different tones coming at you at once can be confusing and also, intimidating. Try a two-tone machine with, either a screen and not too many features but still "does the job" in getting the good stuff or try a single-tone machine which normally has (no screen) but many of these actually go deeper and help the user 'i.d'. the targets just by training one's ear to the scratchy(bad target) sound or the better(solid), coin-size sounds, faint(small or deep), or loud(which is usually a surface coin). The ACE 150 doesn't have high recovery speed/response time compared to a GC-1022/1023 even though it has a screen, this is unimportant. Being able to recognize what (sounds) good and what doesn't, as well as discrimination settings, sweep speed, height from the ground, swing technique, concentration to the sound quality of the target, recovery technique are the more important things to learn irregardless of the machine one uses and (yes), (all) detectors can find gold whether they are 50 years old, brand new, cheap weak 'toy' detectors, it doesn't matter just so long as they (are) functioning properly. Now, if one wants to go deep and/or, have all the bells and whistles, then yes, one needs to do a lot more research.

IMO I say spend the extra $ upfront. The machines can be set for a beginner learning. As you learn you advance on the machine and don’t have to spend more to upgrade..just change settings. Do not go buy a high end machine and work with advanced settings until you got the basics down. Dig it all at first and learn learn learn. Just my 2 cents worth. The more time you invest in your relationship with your new partner the better the relationship will be. And as always communication is key listen to what it’s telling you

A super deep signal will sound different than a solid shallow coin signal. If you look through some of my videos I have some examples of iffy and deep signals they may help. GL and HH!

And, if I may add to that, a deeper sound on a single-tone detector is fainter but still solid. Multi-tones can change, the further away the target is and depending on the transmit power of any given machine as well as their circuit shut-down setpoint.

Just made a video a few weeks ago on my etrac settings you should check it out on my channel. Also, there's a link on that video description that lists the settings on my website. GL and HH!

thank you very much :D

Pjk110 everyone uses Andy sabisch settings that are doing good get his web site

I would just search ebay, craigslist, and the local club.

I don't belong to a club, I'm a beginner of sorts. sometimes my 2 sons come with me but I mostly just go it alone. kind of limits my knowledge and resources but I find that more people equals more trouble. lonewolf pulltab magnet..lol thanks for responding I've tried Craig's list but I'm scared that due to my lack of experience i might get a detector that's not working properly And I wouldn't know it. I have a basic model with sound and two knobs to play with to discriminate ferrous from other materials but other models with more involved would take knowledge of that product. thanks for your videos. maybe I can shoot some product info to you if I find a model for sale in interested in to see if you know Anything in particular that may help before my purchase.

Thomas, I'm here to help, buddy. If you want a deep machine that's relatively easy to use, here are some choices for you; Pirate Apolonia(VERY DEEP), , Nexus Bonanza(very deep). Now, for mid-depth detectors; GC/MD/TC-1022,1023(very fast and comparable to some $1000-plus units in this regard; about 8" on a dime), MP5 Pro, Teknetics Eurotek Pro/11" coil(has a screen but listening to the target is even more important then solely looking at a screen; 4-tone). So this is only the "tip of the iceberg" as there are (MANY) more out there but a rule of thumb is this, always start out with a less complicated machine(preferrably 2-knob and no screen to distract you) and then, simply learn the sounds that each target makes especially by memorizing them, when you dig them up. Practice makes perfect and you get better at it, the more you do. Just make sure to always get all the dirt back in the holes you make and cover them back the way they were. Make it looks like no one was there, in other words. Well, Happy Hunting and Good Luck!

For examples check out some of my deep silver live dig videos. There's a bunch of them and many of the signals are really iffy so they're exactly what I talk about in the video. GL and HH =)

AmericanCoinHunting your right examples are where it is at and how do you hear all the parameters of the sound as he claimed ? Your comments are excellent

The way I handle those sites is I move on to a different more productive site =) You can find good stuff at those sites using sniper coils and going slow but I have had far more success seeking out productive sites and making sure to focus on efficiency. If you have to "work hard" at a challenging site to seek out items then it usually makes for a not so productive day. Getting ready to release part 2 of my metal detecting secrets series and I talk a lot about efficiency.

I tend to agree because a lot of time is wasted in trying to trim the settings. I did this for 20 minutes with my Mikron NRG-110 and even after I thought I got it set right, it was still perturbed by ground minerals but yes, this is a very sensitive machine but if set right, one can find very deep (and small) items. It definitely (does not) like EMI though and will not even work around power lines.

Nothing (but) trash in some of them. So much so that one is forced to leave and usually, they leave empty handed except of course, for the trash they have to throw out at the end of a fruitless 4-hour park hunt. Soooooo discouraging and frustrating sometimes. These places are getting much harder to find any good stuff in anymore, for some reason.

Haha that's funny I went to the park yesterday for about an hour and did the exact same thing. Discriminated out all high tones and focused on low tones for some experimenting.

Shows one that there is never a "one-size-fits-all" detector out there. Alvin, you probably remember the old Garrett ADS Deepseeker as well as the Fisher 1225X/1260-X. Great detectors but they were heavy weights, lol.

haha grats to your son that is awesome =) I took a friend detecting with me and his first time he found a gold ring he was so stoked. But I do think detecting is a learned skill and consistently finding good targets takes knowledge, practice, and good equipment.

Hi Joe glad you liked the vids! Congrats on upgrading to a CTX I might have to put some time on one to see how I like it sometime in the near future =)

CZ3D ? GPX4500? Tarsacci MDT8000? Safari? If they make a large coil for the Tarsacci I vote that detector,

I totally agree Gene! Some of the simplest ones, (do) find the most. My best unit was a BH Tracker IV. 8" tops, on a quarter but man, it pegged as a definite high tone when it detected the non-ferrous stuff. No complicated multi-tones on $1000 detectors or screens to stand there and look at for ten minutes. You either dug the high tone or you ignored the low tone for what it was; trash. I out-found my friend with him using his Whites MXT. I just wish people would learn, just like you said Gene, it's (ALL) in the sound, not on some (fallable) screen that some come to (totally) and solely rely on. Back before screen i.d., people used two-tones (at the most) and (no screen). Before that, people used (single tone) and (NO) screen and just by the good or scratchy(no-good) sound of any given target, one would dig (or not dig). It was (really) that easy. And before that, people used BFO(pitch changed when approaching the top of the target and is similar to pulse induction).

Yeah I have to agree Rob. The old ones (are) sort of 'junk' detectors now because the older coins that were reachable with those older, (weaker) detectors back when those coins were not more than 6" deep are now sometimes 12" deep or more and need to be found with the deepest machines so yeah, I have to agree with you on that Rob. One super deep machine versus 10 duds, lol. Many of the old "dinosaurs" do make good conversation pieces though, lol!

It's a great machine to start with but the higher end machines will help you find more silver for sure. I went from an Ace 250 to an AT Pro to an E-trac, then the CTX 3030.

But be careful of relying too much on that screen. Any i.d. system can be fooled and then it misinterprets what's the target actually is when it's actually dug. VERY often turns out to be something other than what the screen says. The operator is fooled (and/or), the detector is fooled or both, no matter (how) goofd any machine is. It's not perfect and it's ultimately up to the operator to use his (HEARING), just like in the old days, to make the determination to dig (or not), based solely on the sound of the target.......People take the 'info' they see on a screen (all too often), as a determination to dig or not and this is a very common mistake. It (all) depends and (entirely) depends on what the user (themselve's) are more proficient with but still, the screen i.d. can always be fooled, no matter the detector, (guaranteed). So one will end up digging a target anyways because ultimately, any so-called good-sounding target (has) to be investigated, and NOT by what's seen on a screen in the form of a classification but by what the actually target (actually) is when all is said and done and this, obviously enough, and has to be done by investigating the target further. That's why many found more in the old days. Because they simply dug the solid sounding targets. It often turned out to be something they weren't expecting and they also were pleasantly surprised and (yes), they dug more trash than now. The better-quality finds and more of them has been (documented) from many "old timers". And at the time, the good targets were closer to the surface and (also), any coins lost before 1964 were either silver or copper or nickel, at least here in the U.S. and were easily found as surface targets by the weak(er) MD's of the day.

No offense but most of your comments are simply false. ""Hi sensitivity is only good in low trash area"" True, I never said otherwise ""most importantly moisture content"" False, you can gain great depth with high sens in low moisture soil. In fact soil that is too damp can cause more falsing in high sens. I prefer lightly moist soil like loose black soil. ""fast sweep speed on most detectors won't give it time to process the info"" Most of my videos are on Minelab detectors which are the best for finding silver anyway. You can sweep VERY fast in low trash areas without worrying about missing targets. ""large coils for deep coins would only apply in silver Dollar size coins that are flat not on edge"" This is completely false and actually the opposite of true. I have gained a lot of depth on small silver dimes using a huge 17" coil over a stock coil. Also, the larger coil does MUCH better on coins on edge than the stock coil. As you said it really is about knowing your detector and knowing the site and determining the level that you can handle. I seek out low trash sites with deep coins and use large coils which is what this video is all about. You will never find super deep coins in high trash sites at the same rate as you will low trash sites so if you're looking for super deep coins stay away from trashy sites. A video titled "How to sniper coins in high trash sites that others have missed" would be a completely different video. GL and HH!

Rusty Craig. After reading your reply I can't believe the contradictions you made. Starting with low moisture I did say it helps depth don't change to suit your opinion damp falsing comes from the wrong settings. The larger coil spreads the signal over a bigger area with less concentration this was from a tesoro magazine ad I think they have a better idea on that than you so coins on edge offer less crossection to a less concentration of signal because of bigger size the signal is spread over a bigger area to cover more ground in a sweep. No it's true not false and less coins in low trash ? Where's that I have manufacturer info to back my statements so you should do a video to prove it. Completely false and you prefer low moisture soil - when you detect you take what is there at the time and get it set right you don't order conditions like you order at a restaurant ! Make a video and show everyone how manufacturer information is completely false ! Prove that wrong in a video I just wish I would have got back here sooner

LOL It always cracks me up when people claim to know so much based off of what they read or from what someone else told them, especially from a magazine sales ad. Get out and get some real hours in and real experience and you can learn some real strategies for yourself. Most of my info is based on Minelab etrac and CTX which are in general the best machines for finding silver coins PERIOD. If you are using a tesoro to find silver coins then that tells me that you still have a lot to learn. I hate to be rude but whenever I see info that I believe is false I will say so out of respect for my viewers. I want my viewers to have the most accurate info possible so they can be as successful as possible metal detecting. If you want to toot your own horn then make a channel and do a ton of live digs and spends many hours teaching people like I do.

Rusty Craig; you think in terms of brute power, then try a Pirate Apolonia; 13" deep on a ring pull at half sensitivity. No, (true), it does not have ten tones(it is single tone), a V.D.I. or a hodograph display but the simple fact that it (is) getting this kind of target this deep is a good sign even though it is trash, it is still is an indicator target for any and all coins that could be at that depth from back when these were thrown out which is not recent. And a Mikron NRG-100/110/150 is even more sensitive to small, thin items such as thin necklaces down to at least 10" deep.

Sounds interesting =) Extreme sensitivity is essential for deep coins but the next question to ask is how good is the circuitry at distinguishing trash targets like rusty nails vs good targets like gold/silver. For that I would need to test it out. You can have a very sensitive machine that is virtually worthless because if you can't tell the difference you will simply dig junk all day and deep junk still is no good. When minelab comes out with a machine with the sensitivity like a pirate apolinia and the discrimination circuitry like etrac/ctx then that will be the ultimate detector.

I guess,but as long as much pinpointer is hitting on a Target, even after pulling the first hit ,Im Digging deeper,who cares how deep,until the end of my rope.lmmao

Im pretty sure you're fucking deaf.

MatchuClassicヅ yeah, or turn their volume up.

You people must be deaf, I would seriously think about buying some decent headphones. This is probably why you're missing all your silver coins ha.

Andrew W haha. This was hilarious