Mighty vac amzn.to/3pbiIpr IWE Actuator amzn.to/2SCPxfP IWE Solenoid amzn.to/3lnEbse IWE Check Valve amzn.to/3jLDski Blackhawk B6350 Black/Red Fast Lift Service Jack - 3.5 Ton Capacity amzn.to/3tNJ9rM Pro-LifT T-6903D Double Pin Jack Stands - 3 Ton amzn.to/45IU17z 737mechanic Amazon Store Front www.amazon.com/shop/737mechanic/list/CR3BU74FTDU1?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_aipsflist_aipsf737mechanic_W4QMHMJ1JD67FDBCQHRK
I want to compliment the owner of this channel for his help and patience explaining things over and over in these comments. You sir are a gentleman and have done a great service for so many people. I have yet to check out my truck with the knowledge I have gained here, but had to take the time to thank you in advance for what you are doing here. Thank you.
My mechanic broke the vacuum lines. After repairing the big line. I was getting crazy trying to figure out where the small hose connected up at the engine bay. Thanks to this video. Now I know is just a ventilation line. Thumbs up to this video. Made my day a bit better.
I’m so glad you made this. I am a mechanic but I didn’t know how these work. I drive all over the state of Texas in the oilfield and my truck started making grinding noise from both hubs. I know more of where to troubleshoot to. I think mine is a bad check valve or solenoid is weak.
The best video I've found so far on troubleshooting the problem. Every three weeks I drive to or from work 10 hours, I've started getting this grinding noise about 6-8 hours I can switch to 4wd and back to 2wd and it goes away, happens about 4-5 times over 30 minutes. Ford dealership stated there were no codes, so I need to dig deeper, an intermittent problem.
This is an awesome video thank you for breaking down how everything works. I found a split and the vacuum line going to the drivers hub. Quick trip to the dealership $45 for the part and I was fixed.
I have a 2013 Ford F150 king ranch, making a humming noise on the driver side and couldn’t figure out what it was or where it was coming from. This video really helped, Thanks for taking the time and patience to explain how the system works.
Completed a right-side IWE replacement today. Disassembling revealed that the IWE had *split in two*, with the spline gear stuck on the hub's spline and barely engaged on the CV side spline. Explains why the grinding was on right-hand turns - the weight of the CV would cause it to disengage from the stuck spline gear. Both the CV and hub splines where in perfect shape, so I avoided a far more expensive repair. The replacement tested fine during assembly and when everything was back together, let's hope it lasts longer than its predecessor.
Just had this problem on my buddy's truck, just on the driver's side. Turned out all the plastic vacuum lines were crap, they fell apart in my hands, replaced them with new rubber vacuum hose, that's what I had, fixed the problem. So people check all the vacuum lines, especially where they connect to the rubber elbows, could be your problem and save you a ton of money.
Bro, this video is AWESOME 👏!!! Thank you so much for taking the time to explain the symptoms/ causes!!! I have a complete understanding as to what I’m looking for now!!! Wish I would’ve come across this video sooner. Again, thank you, Sir.
The solenoid can be partially blocked as well. I just replaced the IWE's on my truck and the passenger side still would not disengage until after the engine is run for a minute or so. You could also hear the IWE's slap over small bumps and clunk on hard slow turns indicating very weak vacuum. Replacing the solenoid even though it was still technically functioning electrically, solved this. My best guess is the solenoids range of motion degrades over time to the point where it is never open enough to get full vacuum after a certain point. It's probably best practice to replace the solenoid at least once every 2 years by my experience. By year three they are definitely done. Will save you from having to replace the much more expensive IWE's which I had to do as they were both destroyed on my truck and it is only a little over 5 years old.
If it hasn't already been mentioned, Ford just gave up on IWE on the 2015+ F150's. The truck's all still come equipped with the same setup as above, but they released a TSB instructing it to be locked out with the hubs always engaged. Tsb 22-2219. The vacuum is capped at the solenoid.
@@SlimShady771 The transfer case is what engages and disengages the 4wd. The IWE's can be engaged 100% of the time and not have any power coming to the front differential.
Mine was fairly easy to diagnose because it was a split hose. The zip tie clip at the very end that pushes into the knuckle ate a hole into the line. I ordered my new one and put a piece of tape on it for now😂 it still leaks but not as bad. I used the tips in this video to check everything and it seems to work fine, just a old hose
Very helpful, Sir!! Thank you for making this video . This has helped me diagnose my problem. I had no idea that vacuum was applied to release the hub to engage the front axels. I knew my old Fords used vacuum to engage the front axels. I thought it was a bad hub. Now, I am almost certain it is IWE or vacuum problem. My truck is a 2020 and still under warranty. At least now I can tell my Ford tech where to start looking. Thank you!!
Thanks for the video. My 4x4 wouldn't engage. Checked solenoid and it was full of fine sand, so i replaced solenoid and checked the 2 valves on my 2007 f150. Still did not work and no error code. When put into 4x4, the vacuum from top port would not stop. So i replaced the tranfer case switch and that did the trick. The tranfer case switch must need to be working to groung out solenoid for (it) to work. 🤷♂️ Thanks again for the vid!
May have just cured me of a headache. I've been hearing a clunking noise from the front drivers side and going through ball joints, sway arms, tie rods, wheel bearings... I did notice in triage that the wheels are engaging the axle on both sides while being out of 4 wheel. I'm going to try replacing the solenoid and check valve as they're relatively cheap. Thanks!
Mine made the noise, replaced vacuum and check valve. Still the same noise. The vacuum lines were brittle as hell. Amazon does not carry the vacuum tubing. Ford dealership for 40 dollars. Part #BL3Z7A785A. 2011 Ford f150 xlt. Works perfect now
Waited a month for the Ford dealer to get the front wheel hub assembly. When it came they told me I had to wait another month for them to find 20 minutes to install it under warranty. I sold cars for 30 years, had I treated customers like this I wouldent have lasted a year in business.
I'm having that Grinding noise on my 2014 f150. I have tested vacuum at the wheel ends and there's 23 lb. The solenoid is switching on and off. I tested both iwes and they function correctly and hold vacuum at 15 lb without leaking. The truck only makes the grinding noise when it is cool in the morning below 55°. The noise goes away when switched into 4wd. Once the truck is driven and warmed up. It does not make the noise again. I have ordered a new check valve and waiting for it to arrive from Ford. Update: even though the check valve was bad it did not fix the problem. I ended up replacing both iwe's. Now it's nice and quiet like a new truck.
@@andrewahline4800 Here are the parts I used www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0042ORWNI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Less than $200. The IWE's fixed the problem. Nice and quiet.
This is the best video I have saw yet. Thanks it’s the same system as my 2010 model. But when I’m driving my truck it sounds like the rear end. Wish they was a before sound video and after so we could see if it sounded like ours. Thanks again
TALK ABOUT DUMB LUCK!! IT WAS DUMB LUCK ME FALLIN INTO THIS VIDEO, BUT WHAT A JEWELL! YOU SIR HAVE THE PATIENCE OF JOB!! THANKS FOR POSTING AND IN DEPTH DETAILED EXPLANATION! INSTANT SUB!!
The 13th Gen F150 has a TCCM firmware update that prevents the solenoid from allowing vacuum until the truck has been driven 2 or 3 miles after every start. This makes diagnostics a bit more complicated.
I have a 2009 F150 and I got the grinding noise coming from what sounds like the drivers side front tire, but watching your video, my passengers side was also engaged and axle spinning when the truck was off and the drivers side was free spinning. But like I said the sound feels like it's coming from the driver side 🤷♂️ I gotta look into it some more on Monday to get the IWE replaced
Hahaha, you realize this is a Ford 4wd problem, not an Ecoboost problem. I have a first gen Ecoboost with all the common issues. I've also had many other engines that have had an equal amount of known issues. Part of owning a vehicle is accepting it will have a whole set of common problems, just part of the deal, especially in bigger vehicles
I have an '18 F150 with the intermittent grinding noise coming from the right side. Started about 2 years ago. Have been to the Ford dealer twice and they have not been able to figure this out. Last time I brought it in they told me it was something that was frequent in F150's and there was no fix. It would change with the weather. Dude, I kid you not. That is exactly what they said! Like my Ford has arthritis or something. I am convinced it has to be the IWE since nothing else seems wrong and everyone on youtube that describes the problem sounds the same as mine. Time to get my hands dirty and solve something the manufacturer themselves could not figure out. Frustrating thing is it started while truck was under warranty, now I might have to pay for parts out of pocket. It's interesting as it seems like if I put it in 4H for a few miles it'll stop for a day and then comes back. Hmm, maybe a weak solenoid?
The best thing you can do is buy a handheld vacuum pump. amzn.to/3peNtOk and unplug the iwe's and pull a vacuum and make sure they hold solid, if they do use the vacuum pump gauge to make sure you are getting good vacuum down to the iwe's.
I wish I had found this video much sooner. I just piece mealed together info from other, shittier videos. This one was thorough and informative!. I'm just curious as to why your gauge shows around 15 to 20 in hg and mine only goes to about 5 in hg right off the main vacuum line.
Mine would grind and only when the truck was moving, I thought for sure it was the bearing hub. One morning I started up the truck and the grinding noise started. The first time the sound was made while at a stop, turned out to be my water pump. The grinding only happened while moving previously. I could barely turn the impeller on the old pump. And the funny thing was, I started up the truck so that I could position it to jack it up and inspect the hub bearing.
I have a 17 f150. My drivers side started making the grinding noise and wouldn’t shift from 2h-4h. I replaced the check valve and it worked immediately, no noise and would shift from 2h-4h. This was about 2weeks ago. I got in the truck 2 days ago (1st time driving since part replacement) and the noise is back and won’t shift. Ugh. Thought the $10 fix would work longer than that,lol.
You pulled the line from the check valve when the truck was off should I start the truck turn it off and quickly try that way I know there should be vaccume in it ?
Good info! Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I have a 2015 F150FX4 with a 5L. and only 50k and had a noise that sounded like a cat heat shield vibrating. I replaced with Ford #FL3Z-3A788-B with sucess.
@@mattfolkers827 my source was the cross pipe exhaust heat shield that had two clamps on it. One was loose allowing vibration/noise. I replaced the loose one with a stainless hose clamp solving problem
I occasionally has one IWE that starts to engage of I'm climbing a hill on the highway... My vacuum reservoir will also bleed down overnight which can cause a scare if I jump in the truck, fire it up and immediately back up.... No brakes! I'll use this video to start finding that leak... I suspect might be check valve because it's so slow....
I have a 2004 f150 only makes the noises while driving if i let off the gas it stops do you know what would most likely cause that i have already replaced the solenoid and both hubs
Im diagnosing this now. I have replaced the silanoid and check valve months ago and have had no issues. Now its back. Only in the early morning pulling out of neighborhood. Its coming from passenger side as well. Um going to che k the lines for cracks/leaks. If all is good then my last resort is the IWE. Not aure i can do that on my own. What are you charging flr parts/labor?
I have a 17. Noise started yesterday. Has vacuum at all 3 points. Neither wheel is engaged (unless I call for 4x4). When I put it in 4x4, the noise stops instantly. Turning left makes the noise worse. Only thing left is the solenoid but I don’t think that’s the issue either. Any ideas?
I have vacuum to my hubs in 2wd. When I engage the 4wd a check 4x4 light comes on and I still have vacuum to the hubs. I replaced the solenoid and still the same thing. Why am I keeping vacuum even when I turn 4wd on? Any ideas? Thanks. Its a 2013 ford f150
Mine makes a noise on low rpm i replaced the check valve and the solenoid still makes noise when i release the hose when off doesnt store air is that normal
If I hook my pump to it from the wheel I can't pull any vaccum, what's your thoughts? Bad check valve I'm scratching my head at this point the iwe is holding vaccum
How much vacuum should I be getting at the end of the hose by the IWE? I put my finger on it and it’s hardly anything but I don’t know if that’s normal or not
@@737mechanic okay thank you. What would be the loss of vacuum to both iwes? Also I’ve replaced both my check valves and the vacuum control solenoid and my 4hi is still wanting to kick in while I’m driving. The last thing I can think of is my Iwes but the thing is the light only comes on when I put it in drive and immediately goes out in park and neutral.
@@alexcomella1640 First thing you have to have to troubleshoot it, is a mityvac. You need to pull a vacuum at the IWE's and make sure they hold a vacuum. If they do work your way up stream making sure the vacuum lines are not leaking. Also you will be able to check and make sure the required vacuum is making it to each IWE using the mityvac.
@@alexcomella1640 It doesn't take much but a minimum of around 8 or 9 Hg, with the engine running you should be getting at least 20 Hg. If you get a vacuum gauge or a mityvac you will know for sure how much vacuum you have at the different areas of the system. If you have an engine with turbo's you probably have a mechanical vacuum pump and they do go bad so you need to know how much vacuum you have with the engine running.
Both of my CV are connected when my vehicle is off, ones I turn It on only the drivers one disconnects and like 20 seconds after I turn my vehicle back off I can hear air scaping from somewhere near the vacuum reservoir, is it normal?
My rear right is trying to engage when turning right or backing up. By releasing the vacuum lines and putting them back on it stopped doing it at least for my trip home. Trying to figure out what's the issue. I had vacuum can't find a hole yet. Hoping it's cheap and easy not a hub
@@737mechanic thanks. I’ll give it a shot. Also, mine only tends to do it when slowing down to make a turn or stop. I never notice it at speed or after initial acceleration. Does that indicate anything specific to you?
Im having issues with vacuum. Driver side vacuum is strong and passenger side is weak. Is that normal? I did pull a vacuum on the hoses and the vacuum did hold. Actuators are good too. Oh one other thing, i have crazy vibration on passenger side when going 50mph. All new suspension passenger cv axle new and my 4x4 stopped working a few months ago.
I’m getting a grinding/rumble strip feeling when I engage 4wd. When I switch it back to 2wd it goes away and truck feels like normal . Could I possibly have a bad iwe.
@@737mechanic thanks I checked and vacuum is good to both iwe and no grinding when in 2wd and in 4wd there is no vacuum which leads me to believe an iwe is broken or not fully engaging.
Having this issue on a 2015 F-150 I bought a week ago. It is a blue certified used vehicle. This grinding noise happened intermittently on day 3 of ownership. I took it back to the dealership (Apple Ford, Columbia Maryland) and they had it all day. Two people test drove it and never heard or felt the issue. So they did nothing. I showed them a video recording of it happening and they said they have to witness it themselves before they will replace it. This is clearly the issue!! I have never been so frustrated in my life with a vehicle I just got. I can't afford to keep leaving it there for them to test drive it and it never happening for them. I plan to call Ford directly on Monday. Anyone else have any suggestions on how to get them to fix it? I shouldn't have to pay out of pocket to fix a certified vehicle I just bought!!
Greetings People. I Have The Same Problem With Ford F-150 XLT 2012 5.0 L. It Was Missing A Linen. What Goes From One Place To The Other. I Know What To Do?
Help? I have 2012 f50 4x4 and I’m having a very similar problem. I have been trying to determine if my issue is the same using what I understand to be your diagnostics. Who, when the truck is shut off both front wheels are in engaged to the axles. When I start the truck both front wheels disengage and spin freely. What am I missing here??
