For those in Victoria the rules are 50mm above factory spec with a +/- tolerance of 25mm. This means your car can physically measure 75mm over spec and just be ok. A traditional two inch lift with the weight of extras (bull bar, winch, second battery etc) will still physically measure about 50mm above spec. In regards to the tyres, a 285 will be the other 25mm
Thanks for the info, I am actually looking at going 285s on my 2wd, yeah I know lol. But the reason I want to do this is my Hilux makes 330hp and 1100nm on dyno, I currently have 235/60R16s and it will light the tyres up in 2nd gear no worries. I also need longer gearing, with such short gearing I can't get my big turbo spooled up in 1st and in 2nd I still can't get full boost. I hit 40psi of boost in 3rd. I don't need to go as high as 31.6" like the 285/65R17 gives but it's hard to get a 285mm wide tyre that isn't super tall. ~30" would probably be spot on for me. There is also no such thing as a taller diff gear for a hilux, I have been asking around for years. I also need longer gearing as my hilux runs out of gears at about 160km/h and I can hit 160km/h before I even finish overtaking a truck even pulling out in top gear. I definitely wouldn't be worried about tall gearing taking power away, it's so easy to make good power out of a diesel hilux. Just take it to Just Autos on the Sunshine coast (I drove my hilux there from Tasmania), get a stage 3 gturbo, +30% injectors, front mount, clutch and a tune and that's easily 260 to 280hp over the stock 115hp. My hilux has a built motor, stronger pistons etc and a larger diesel pump. Just Autos have a 2wd diesel 3L hilux that makes 500hp on 60psi of boost.
Been searching around the last week for lift/tyre info for n80 and your vid makes the most sense by far! Not sure why there’s so many questions in the comments, I’ll be hitting my mechanic up for caster adjustment tomorrow Cheers 👍🏻
A tip for fitment: put the car on jack stands, take out your strut, put the tire back on and put a jack under the wheel to simulate tuck. Also go full lock both was under compression
Hey mate Awsome video. Straight forward and clear understanding. This video helped me decided to not lift befor getting 285’s on my hilux. I have since had 285’s installed and had no dramas expect abit of guard rub at the rear of the wheel arch about 20 mm. As your video demonstrates a grinder fixed this with abit of paint touch up.
Awesome video man, I have been having same problem as you spoke of, info scattered everywhere in bit's and pieces, this was exactly what I was looking for, only difference is I will probably go down the line of UCA's (I like the squared superior engineering ones), cheers mate.
Or..... cut inner rear of the flare out and hammer pinch weld flat then re fibre glass and paint, and trim the bodymount back as far as you require and re weld a plate onto it and trim up bullbar by a few inches and presto can fit any 33" tyre on the old luxys
slow & sooty yeah that would be the ideal way to do it and a better solution if you want to remove sway bars as well and get maximum flex but this works if you don’t want to cut the body mount
Didn’t know it was that difficult to fit 33s on the n70 hilux I recently fit them to an n60 all I dad was sus lift and a one inch body lift and the fit with a little bit of panel correction
Hey mate, love the videos. So good to finally get a clear answer on it all. I have had the same trouble with finding all the information needed in the same place, all the things I found at the time all recommended 3" lift and diff drops etc. I ended up just running 265's but would love to go bigger. So going off your videos, you had fitted the tyres first before installing the uca's. Ive looked at aftermarket uca's and seen that they have castor correction, this may be a silly question but does the correction counteract the original adjustment that you get the tyre shop to do at the start and does that cause any rubbing on the body mounts once in?
Thanks for watching mate, aftermarket ucas will need another wheel alignment and yes it will most likely cause rubbing on the body mount depending on your offset. so you’ll probably need to do a body mount chop.
Great video! Could you tell me the width of the flares where it meets at the bottom of the door? Considering buying a set but my brush-bars don’t have much room for clearance
Thanks for the video mate. I’m about to lift mine another 25mm to take up the sag from 10yrs. I’m only running 265’s but this was a helpful reminder of what everything does. What have you got in the rear?
I've got RG leaves and 170mm shackles with fox shocks currently but I need to change to the 210mm shackles and get +2" RG leaves to get it to work better
Hi mate, Great video, been enjoying your channel. Just wanted to clarify, did you say these 285’s should fit regardless of a lift kit? From what I could gather then is it just a case of castor adjustment, aftermarket UCA’s and some trimming? Btw, what brand tyres and UCA’s did you go for?
hey mate, yeah the 285's should fit with a little bit of cutting and caster adjustment. ideally you'll want to do a body mount chop to get the most from it as well. Aftermarket UCA's will make it drive better and allow slightly better down travel. I have "Blackhawk" UCA's which I'm pretty sure are made by Roadsafe and I've had no issues at all with them. My tyres are 285/75R16 and they are Nitto Terra grapplers on 0 offset rims.
Hey mate. wanting to go from 265 to 285 but wanted to see did you notice a difference in the fuel economy, decrease in power any other general wear and tear? Cheers
I went from factory size straight to 285's so yeah I noticed a huge difference in power loss and a small decrease in fuel economy. It still easily gets to 110km/h but it's just a bit slower off the mark now so no huge issue and only lost about 20-30 km's per tank roughly. Your doing a smaller jump up than that though so shouldn't be as noticeable for you.
Hey mate awesome video but still abit confused have ya done any body mount chop. does the 285 scrape at all ? I’ve got a n80 stock tryna build it up. Thanks mate
Hey mate, thanks for the clear information provided in this video. I currently have a 2.5 inch lift on my hilux with bigger ucas as i had to do gvm upgrade. Question is with doing the body mount chop and using the plates from psr, is there enough clearance to run 295s? Thanking you and hope to hear from you soon.. Cheers
Hey mate that would depend on your rim offset and also actual tire sizes differ between brands it’s hard to know exactly but 295 vs 285 there’s only 10mm difference in width so it’s possible
I run 0 offset, more positive offset would make the tyre closer to the UCA and more negative offset would space it out further. I find 0 to be perfect because it has some clearance between the tire and also my tyres don’t poke outside the flares but I do have wider flares than factory (I have 60mm) so take that into consideration if you are choosing
Great vid mate just a question on the caster if you adjust it all the way forward as possible and run 0 offset you don’t need to change upper control arms ?
jake fleay yeah mate it’s possible but you lose things like return to centre and you get increased bump steer, it just handles pretty bad in general that’s all
So did you do a body mount chop on a 285? how about a 295 70r17? is body mount chop sufficient on a 2 inch lift or would you recon getting a 1 1/2 body lift?
Hi I've just put 285/75/16 mud tyres on my 2inch lifted hilux and am having some rubbing issues im going to call a few places tomorrow to organise the caster to be moved as far forward as possible. What upper control arms do you recoment or will any after market ones do the trick? Thanks heaps
Concise and clear. Been looking for this info for a while now. All I have is testimonies which require massive mods to the vehicle. How does it influence the power and fuel consumption with the larger Tyres?
It hasn’t really affected the fuel consumption too much maybe slightly worse now but not super noticeable for me. power did take a big hit especially when moving off from a stop it’s super slow and 1st gear does feel a bit too tall now. Overall it’s still fine to drive though but I’m definitely looking into either a tune to help with power or re gearing to fix the ratios up
Good vid bud. Anyone out here know if 265/65 R 18 can fit on the newer Hilux? I'm wanting to run stock suspension but worried about rubbing..and if there is a rubbing quick fix? really also want to avoid castor adjustments if possible
The rims are circle hole “Sunraysia” style rims, there’s a few different brands that make them all about the same price. And the tyres are nitro terra grapplers
still super confused as ive gathered so much different info. ive been told to get atleast -12offset with body mount chop to run 285/75r16 i already have 16x8 0p rims in the shed. I have factory flares so im guessing 285s will poke out abit so thinking of going 275
Probably a bit late, but I have 285's on 16x8, 0 offset and factory SR5 flares, the tread itself is just under the flare, but the sidewall bulges out past it, not as much poke as most Ranger drivers run, and doesn't seem to get unwanted attention.
Hey mate my speedo reads wrong it’s about 10/12 k’s under what it should be so whatever it says rpm at 90kmh is on a regular speedo is what mine is at 100
Did you keep your engine stock power? Or have you had an ECU remap to supply more power? I've heard stories that after fitting bigger tyres like this some drivers found the power lost. Have you notice at all any difference in power lost? Like acceleration was decrease?
Hey man awesome video! Just quick question. Right now I have 70mm flares the I bought from kutsnakes. So for the rims do you think positive 10 will do the job with 265 or 275tyre?Cheers
Mine are 0 offset and my flares are 60mm and sits almost flush with the flare. So from that I think Positive 10 would be about 20mm inside the flare since your flares are 10mm wider than mine and pos 10 offset would mean your wheel sits another 10mm in
Hey man, I'm currently running 265/75r/16 on a pos 20 rims, 2.5inch lift with superior ucas. So going off you're vid I should be okay with fitting 285/75/16s on 0 offset? Gonna go nitto Mts on 0 offset. Just want some clarification before I dish out 1900 haha. Cheers
Yeah that’s what I’m running currently, you will have to cut a little bit out and might get some scrub if you don’t want to do the body mount chop but apart from that should work all good
How is the caster adjusted? I’ve got Fox suspension 3” lift and the VMN UCAs but my garage said they cant adjust the caster more forward. I’ve just ordered the plates to cut and weld the body mount anyway but was hoping not to cut it. Neil
Neiiil hey Neil, depending on which ucas you have they are adjusted differently. some already have built in caster correction and some are adjustable, I see you said you have VMN ucas but I believe they sell a fixed type (Blackhawk branded) and an adjustable type where you can adjust caster by the top ball joint position. It’s possible they have already adjusted it as far forward as possible. If you running large tyres or a negative offset doing the body mount chop will be your best bet, there are places that do it if your not keen on cutting it yourself too.
hey mate awesome video, I have a 2012 sr that's stock standard atm, thinking of putting bigger tyres on 16s, just didn't know what the biggest size would fit without a lift? Ideally I'd want 32s with a 2in lift but for now I dont think the 32s will fit without a lift
Zak Ulrich lift won’t matter because when the suspension articulates it will go lower than stock height anyway. Biggest you can fit without cutting is a 31 and you’ll probably just have to remove the mudguards or they will rub a bit
What suspension setup would you recommend, I don’t mind mixing and matching, the end goal is something that doesn’t rub. What are the most idle uca to run for adjustments?
Really depends on a few things mate like how much you want to modify and how much you want to spend and if you want to keep it legal etc. The thing is that suspension won't affect if it rubs or not because when your suspension compresses the height goes back to factory height if not lower, so you'd want your wheels to fit and turn etc. without rubbing before you get your lift installed.hitting
Mate I just got a hilux. I can’t for the life of me figure out how to get the hub caps off. I have the same as yours. Are they screw on, push or bolted ? It’s doing my head in
Hey mate do you think there would be any scrubbing/issues on my N80 with 285/75/r16 0 offset with a 2 inch lift, body mount chop, some cutting of the guards and caster adjustment but no after market UCAs?
Same things happening in my car hilux got 285 on on 17 inch rim it was ok before i took for wheel alignment now everytime i do full turn specially when under compression it rubs so bad on the back to flares how to fix it move caster forward or need small tyre or smaller rim ? It has got 2 inch lift on Thanks man. Plz any suggestions
Rim size won’t change anything because the overall diameter will still be the same, you could move your caster forward but it might still rub in which case you’d need to cut some plastic out from the flare, ideally you’d need to do a body mount chop as well to have 0 scrub. If you don’t want to do that then smaller tyres would be your answer
@@RyvalCreative thanks for ur help could u give any idea if moving the caster forward it will affect the tyre wear or or anything it might reduce the rubbing alot bcz before ot was not rubbing only after aligning and if go smaller tyre what size would be ok for it thanks.
When I got my hilux, it came with the option of coming with 30.6 inch tires from the dealer. So if I wanted to run 285/75/16 (32.8 inch) on a 2 inch lift, that would be .2 of an inch tire increase (5mm). So the overall tire lift would be 2.5 mil over the legal tire lift (25mm) but I suspect that the lift kit will sag a couple mil, so would the ride height be legal meaning I wouldn't have to get a mod plate?
They probably wouldn’t actually measure hub to guard they would likely just look at the tyre size written on the tyre and defect you because it’s too big regardless of what size lift you have. That being said it’s unlikely and you’d probably have to get a copper who’s having a bad day to sting you for it or be doing something wrong in the first place to get pulled over.
They likely would never check and even if they did, they would have to deem that an accident was caused by your tyres being too big in order for them not cover you
Neg 44 means a really deep dish externally so they would clear the brakes better if anything, the rim size would be more of an issue rather than offset
mate, i have a 2014 hilux sr 5, i have stock alloy 17 rims, my tyer size is 265\65\ 17. i wanted to install 285\70\ 17s, can i get away with using my stock 17 toyota rims, or must i change the rim? im not certain what offset the standard rims are, maybe 0 offset, taking a guess, but i dont want to install any steelies, thats why i want to keep my stock 17s and just throw on the 285s, another question, i need a 2 inch lift kit to run the 285s, right?
Hi mate, thanks for watching. As far as I know the 17 inch rims you have are positive 30 offset which means it will be very difficult for you to fit them without a lot of cutting in the inner guard and I think you may even have issues with the tyres scrubbing your upper control arms, If you want to keep your current rims maybe just go for some 31" inch tyres as this will be slightly bigger than what you have now and wont require much if anything to fit. As for the lift you don't need any lift to fit the tyres, if you end up going 285's or smaller you just need to remove some of your bumper of bullbar where the tyre will hit and remove your front mudflaps as well, you also might need to either adjust your caster forwards or do a bodymount chop. Hope that helps .
@@RyvalCreative IS it annoying because im choosing between an arb snorkel and a stainless steel one and if the sound is that annoying i might just go with arb
matthew abraham depends on your personal preference really mate, I personally like it but obviously not for everyone. I’d say try and get a ride in someone’s car that has one and see what you think
I did the body mount chop in a later video, at this time it wasn’t done. I have 2” sus and 2” body lift. The suspension lift won’t help you fit bigger tyres because when the suspension compresses it goes back down to factory height anyway
@@RyvalCreative I don't get this argument , however see that a lot. My understanding of the situation. - you do the lift by installing longer shock absorber strut. It is popular in Russia to use stock Tundra shocks for this. You get about 2 inch lift with them. By this you have your UCAs and LCAs declined down. You indeed have more travel to go up in this case than stock. And at full compression the wheel will be touching on top. BUT you may lower your bump stop for compression by an inch and this way you will get up travel from neutral position about the same range as stock and prevent UCAs from going all the way up and the wheel rubbing on top
Yes you will be starting from a more extended position due to the longer shock absorbers but when uptravel occurs from compression of the suspension the tire will end up back to its factory position if not even further compressed. Even if you extend the bump stop the tire will still be able to travel far enough upwards that it would make any suspension lift useless as a method of reducing tire scrub.
@@RyvalCreative I still don't agree :). To get tyre rubbing with the lift you MUST compress the spring more than typical value. Basically if you have 2 inch lift and 1 inch increase in tyre radius (33 instead of 31s) you will have to get the spring 1 inch even shorter than stock length at full compression to get to rubbing . You cannot do that since the weight of the vehicle is still the same. There will be no force to compress the spring that much. Besides even if you manage to compress it even further I would suspect that coils will start touching each over.
Mark Morillo anything is possible, I’ve seen people do it but requires a lot of cutting as well as the right suspension setup to get it to work properly
Hey mate yeah it does make it very gutless, I would eventually like to do the diff ratios but it’s like 4/5k if you do lockers as well so can’t really justify it at the moment!
Pretty noticeable difference, definitely doesn’t take off as easy and towing is pretty bad now. I want to regear in the future to correct the ratios. I pretty much don’t use 5th now either it comfortably does 110 in 4th
