When I worked at a bike shop, I used to take the chain of the chainwheel so I could use the pedal spanner trick in both directions. Check your pedals often! I ruined a XTR crank last year by no doing so.
Well, I watched this to see how they could make a video about removing and installing pedals 14 minutes long and I ended up learning what those mysterious washers included with my bike were for!
I should have looked at your video first and I would have 2 hours of my life back😖excellent tip on the treading to be able to recognise the left and right pedals. My new pedals didn't state which and hence I couldn't understand why they wouldn't fit. Thank you very much.
Easiest way to identify left pedal is it has a groove on the pedal shaft between thread and body! But a lot of people even techs, maybe doddy even as didnt mention it, don't know this. By Far the easiest way to id the left pedal. Right doesn't have a groove. All left pedals have the groove in some form, including all those shown in the vid! Easier than looking for a tiny L/R also.
I’m not sure I agree with the washer on pedals part, they are not always necessary. There are some reasons you might need them….. 1. If you have delicate Carbon cranks with thread recessed but not always are they supplied unless said reason. 2. Some pedals sit too close to the crank and can rub the crank but many inc Shimano have engineered clearance so don’t supply washers. 3. Set Q-Factor better (clearance from chain-stay to pedal) and or to bring pedals out a little to get them in a better position for the rider. Years ago they were much more common but not really today, you can buy them aftermarket but don’t put the frighteners on people thinking they’re ruining their pride and joy not having them lol
Your reasons for including them are spot on. I used to follow pretty much this exact school of thought. Last week I wound up wrecking a set of OneUp pedals because I gambled on the theard recess. It wound up seizing the spindle in the pedal at the crank arm end. The pedal was rotating itself off while I rode. Thankfully I noticed it before it did any damage to the threads on the crank arm. I'll be using the washers going forward. :)
Had my new bike shipped to me, and I put it together..had new pedals to mount and there was plastic washers, but they were to small to fit to the pedals so I mounted them without..it doesn't seems to be a concern. Is there any other reason for having washers then make more clearance to the cranks?
Grease/lubrication isn't the issue, it needs to be anti-seize. The reason is because two dissimillar metals can react and oxidize, so a neutral compound inbetween can prevent this. Personally I use Coppaslip, which has copper in it. The presenter mentions titanium specifically and theres a good reason why if you look into it.
For really stuck pedals, I've put the bike in the stand and then used two old inner tubes to secure the other pedal to the frame (or rope if the frame is minging), pedal spanner in place with a longish cheater bar (usually an old seatpost) and then gorilla the damn thing out. Cheap bikes have pedals made of cheese and getting these off is a real pain.
Just use some penatrating oil and leave it for an hour or two, or even overnight. If something is incredibly stuck, through corrosion or oxidation, take the crank arm off and pad a vice to secure it. Penatrating oil usually works, though. GT85 is what I use.
It's not always loosen to the rear of the bike that's horrible advice! Because it's a circular rotation. After you rotate to the rear the next rotation is to the front!
Curious about tightness because manufacturer specs state around 40nm, which is mad. I mean that's car torque wrench figures. I just do pedals hand tight and I've never had one come off.
#AskGMBNTech Hey Doddy! I really cannot understand why aren't six pot brakes a thing yet. I mean as stated in a previous video, 35 mil bars too are just for compensation to thicker stanchion tubes. Yes, there were old ones with six pistons from hope and brembo, but why aren't there any modern ones? They would probably be too powerful, but I bet those big brands could make them a little weaker, and the cooling would still be better (not even mentioning the cool factor).
I use the crank arm to help. For example, to remove the left pedal, I put the Allen key above the crank arm, grasp firmly, and squeeze. Similar on the right crank where the Allen key is below the crank arm. I learned this way because I don't usually have someone nearby to assist in holding the bike.
This was the first thing I had to learn to do and I still get it wrong. "Back it off" is the phrase I try and remember for loosening, but turn the bike upside down on the trailside and I'm confused all over again
I originally took the common internet advice about not needing to 'really' tighten pedals when I started out last year. Then had a pedal unscrew and fall off - so that's a myth busted. Luckily it was not under much load so didn't ruin the threads. On digging deeper it turns out that SRAM (cranks) and DMR (pedals) both recommend around 50Nm torque for these. That is 'tight'. Lesson learned - RTFM! Now I use a 1/2" drive torque wrench with a 6 or 8mm hex socket for this job.
50nm is a hell of a lot of torque. The threads can often take it, but honestly I don't think you need so much. I've never done them past fully hand tight. As the presenter says, the action of pedalling imparts additional torque over time. The important thing is to check pedals frequently and nip up if necessary. For the record, the consensus guidance is between 35 and 50nm. Either of these values will need a big torque wrench to measure, so do take extra care as you'd often have to employ an automotive torque wrench to measure such a high value, often leading to the use of adapters if you need to use such a tool on an MTB. Using adapters can alter the torque measurement, so again, be very careful.
No issues with assembly for me ru-vid.comUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L but I could see where some might benefit from using an experienced bike assembler/mechanic. I'm an older rider starting back after a 10 year break. This bike exceeds my capabilities and has been easy to get comfortable riding. I'm mostly on easy trails with almost no street riding and have not been disappointed with the performance of the bike. My fitness level is far below what I previously rode with and because of that the mileage is going on the bike slowly. While I'm losing weight slowly, the bike seems to tolerate my 220 pounds just fine. The bike has been used by several family members ranging from 5'5" - 5'9".
They don't do that now! I just bought a brand-new pair of Nukeproof Horizon pedals. They tighten toward the rear, but when pedaling forward, they undo themselves and fall out of the crank threads! The R and L are stamped on them for idiot-proofing, and I've also searched for these in other videos, which are all the same! So, being from the old-school riding days, I knew that they should tighten as you pedal, not loosen! I don't know if Nukeproof has sent out all their pedals with the spindle on the wrong side and stamped for that side? They are the 2024 Sam Hill Nukeproof Horizon pedals! Go watch some reviews, and you'll see what I mean! When I was testing my gear setup in the bike stand, the pedals would keep unscrewing and come off in my hand as I pedaled forward and tightened when I pedaled backward! I need to know for my own safety and for others if these pedals need a recall! Please can you look into this further?
Clear instructions but I guess my bike is special because I can't get these pedals off still. No direction seems to turn the pedals. I do notice there is a washer on the front of the pedals but I have no tool that could reach that!
An MBE coming your way sometime in the future , Doddy . Thanks for this . Had very tight pedals , watched two other vids before this , and they were useless mostly . I copied the way you did the left pedal , same body position and crank position , and it worked !!! Your video focused less on clockwise/counterclockwise , but gave me a methodology to apply . Cheers mate . I owe you several beers .
Lots of ways to do it but I always point the tool forwards and put my foot on the pedal and push down on the pedal and pull up on the tool, exactly the same bpth side, nice and simple.
So bike didn't come with washers and new rockbros also no washer however dont think my cranks had an inlay very flush.. Thank you added a little anti seize anyways fantastic video as always
How have your Rockbros held up? I’ve got a 4 month old bike. I bought Rockbros pedals, used antiseize and snugged them on installation. Unfortunately the right one backed out, stripped the crank threads! Now I’m waiting on new cranks and bought Raceface Chester’s to go with them. I don’t know what caused the threads to be stripped.
Planning on doing a bigger upgrade this weekend so I decided to loosen my cranks just to clean them and make them easier to replace.... It took my entire body weight to get it unstuck was doubting myself multime times if I was even pushing in the right direction. Thanks for the tips doddy!
Pedal Washers ! Arhhh.....wish you made this video 6 months ago before I fitted my new DMR V12's!....I definitely would have added washers, but alas in my ignorance.........oh well....
The explanation on why the left pedal is links threaded is to my knowledge wrong. It might be a happy side effect, but the main reason is to prevent them falling off. You see, if it was right hand threaded it wouldn't fall off if the bearing got seized up, it would however come off if the bearing didn't get seized up. This is cased by gyroscopic possession. Just try back pedaling with slightly loose pedals, they will eventually work themselves off, at least if the bearings are good...
@@gmbntech I’ve just had a raging argument on E-mtb FB forum with many saying that they have never used washers while installing pedals. Lots of muppets think they know better than you.
Thank you, I'll be honest, i just needed the bit where you explain which way to undo them because it didn't matter how much i thought about it, it was hurting my head! Pedals are now in bits bearings soaking in oil and everything greased. 🤞 It stops the clicking and saves me buying new ones!
As I understand it, the reason for the threading direction has nothing to do with axles seizing up, and everything to do with mechanical precession: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Precession_(mechanical)
Upside down, and use allen key against the tyre I find easiest... stops cranks turning with same force ur applying to hex, so balances it automatically....works to tighten and loosen both...best with T hex
I been trying to track down a creak the past few days. I've gone through the laundry list of culprits. So I decided to check out the pedals. I took them off and found that they were bone dry. I put some anti-seize put them back on and Walah, creak is gone! Thanks! GMBN is awesome!!!
Not the end of the world. If it's blue thread lock, then heat the end of the crank arm with a hair dryer. Put a towel behind to prevent heat hitting the bike. Blue threadlock will give way easily using this method. If not, post back. There are other methods. If it's red threadlock, you may have to resort to drilling, but try heat first. If you use an actual heat gun, then use a plumbers pipe soldering shield behind the crank arm, as they get VERY hot. Keep the heat local to the area of work at all times.
I’m having a problem my bike pedal randomly snapped off while I was using it, just the pedal part no other parts. I’ve been trying to get the rest of the pedal parts off, there’s still a black kind of stick left on and some gears and random bits and pieces but I don’t know how. What should I do?
Anyone ever try an impact gun to remove the freaking pedals ? Mine are so seized up I am afraid to snap something . (And yes I am turning the correct way)
Have you tried taking the pedal off by turning the bike upside down? I couldn’t get a pedal off my bike but once I turned it upside down, it came off with ease. I think it’s because you work with gravity rather than against it and it comes off so much easier
I work at a Bikeshop myself and have to say, you can never tighten a pedal too much (okay okay, yes you can, perhaps when your allen key breaks, but you shure can put your whole body weight on the allen key) with an allen key! The pedals naturally loosen when they're not tightened enough, wich is often a problem of customers that install their pedals themselves.
I don't get the tightening thing. I always thought this but if you hold onto the pedal shaft and turn the crank around how you normally would while riding the pedal will unwind.
A good trick is to use one foot to loosen the pedal while placing your other foot in front of the pedal to stop the cranks from spinning. This removes the need to drop the bike on something because your hands are free
A spanner shouldn't really be involved, but if you're working on an older bike, you need to use the correct size spanner. If you've stripped the hex bolt out, then the only solution is to drill it out and replace with a new pedal. Same applies if you've rounded off the axle. Theres no real way to fix that aside from drilling out the pedal axle.
This video saved my life. I didn't think I needed to watch a video for installing pedals but learnt I was doing it all wrong. Didn't even know pedals have actually a side of their own. Thank you.
