Thank you so much for this. I love my CP3525 and the quality of its print. I bought a PageWide pro to prolong the life of the CP3525 and to do the normal text printing and it is an utter disaster of a machine. This 59.F0 is the first issue I have ever had with the CP in however many years I have had it, and am delighted I was able to get it back on the road. I mistakenly bought poor quality heat shrink so I think it will eventually fall off and I see a re-dismantle in my future somewhere! Also I have three screws left over and forgot to plug in one of the multi cables, so had to half open it up again, but we will gloss over that as we are printing again! Thank you for taking the time, much appreciated. Here in the UK not many techs want to touch these now.
Thanks for you taking the time to upload your helpful video. I took mine apart but wasn't sure to what to use as the replacement for the sticky pad. It took me twice as long to disassemble my unit following another video and I still got the error after putting it all back together. I look forward to saving time with your shortcut provided and trying the shrink-wrap tubing as a replacement for the sticky pad. I removed and cleaned all of the factory pad with alcohol and Goo-Gone and think I used electric tape and wrapped it around several times to the solenoid. Also for all those are searching for a replacement it I believe HP does not offer it; at the very least the Parts Diagrams/Schematics do not identify the solenoid part number.
When you put the solenoid back into the drive assembly, the arm of the solenoid will get stuck against the outside of the gear sometimes. I always use a small pick after installing the solenoid, reach it down from the top to push against the arm of the solenoid and it will click into place. You can verify it by rotating the drive motor as he shows in the video to make sure the gear stops turning once the solenoid arm hooks onto the proper spot on the gear. If it just keeps spinning and spinning, the solenoid arm is probably not seated properly.
YOU DA MAN!! THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU! I like all your commentary and helpful tips along the way. Very grateful for the two tricks also. I could not get the shrink tubing to stay on the small side of the solenoid flange, so i installed it on the moving arm and cleaned the small side EXTREMELY WELL, then cleaned it again!
Wery good video. According to your instructions I repair also CP4525 printer. Very important step is rotating the motor until it locks in a position. Many thanks!
I really appreciate your work here! This is a well-detailed video. It really reduced the fumble factor when gaining access to the offending solenoid. • At 16:50 - when installing the HV PCB, to properly seat the lower left (viewed from the rear) on its mounting standoff, I used the 'wrong end' of a long spring hook inserted from the left side to pop the HV PCB onto the retaining clip. • I use my butane soldering iron to heat shrink tubing. The air inlet windows near the business end radiate enough heat to do the job, with better accuracy than an open flame.
That butane iron would a great alternative for the mobile service tech, especially in a hospital environment like my accounts. I would only be concerned about having an empty outlet nearby. In my hospitals, all the outlets are usually occupied, though I could use the one the printer is on.. I was just looking at Ryobi Cordless Heat Guns that use the same 18v battery as my current Ryobi cordless tools. However, my tool bag wouldn’t fit another device/tool like a heat gun or soldering iron as it’s always bursting at the seams with all various parts for the many different types of machines I see in a daily basis.. I also like your spring hook technique. I just find it handy to use the flathead driver, as I also use it for the right rear corner panel, so just having two tools out in my situations is better for me.
Thank you for this. I watched another video first and got the recurrent error. Once I had what he’d yours, I took the two extra steps (which didn’t require much stripping down) & it cleared the error perfectly. Thank you very much indeed!
Thank you so much for your clear information and video. Thank you for showing that many parts and cables could be left on this repair which made it so much easier to get my machine working properly again! It took a few more hours for me as an amateur to do this service but it was worth it. I was many times afraid of dropping a screw into the machine, so therefore a little extra careful. Best regards, Stefan Mattisson
I followed that you showed procedures on the video. There are more video about this issue but your video is needed less step and less disassembly. I fixed my defective solenoid with a shrinkable material. However I got an another error code But is another issue, I think: Paper jam on tray 2. My printer needs pick up roller replacement. I will do it soon. Of course, my procedure takes more than 30 minutes because I am a rookie. Thank you very much for your effort and experience sharing.
First, make sure all your wiring connections are secure. Second rotate the the right most motor, which is closest to the transfer belt solenoid clockwise until the solenoid clicks in place and the gear that the solenoid controls stops. If it is already locked in place, then you you’ll want to remove all toner, power on, and insert one at at a time. You’ll find out which developer motor is bad.
@@ShyRockFreak86 Thans for your comment. I will try that you said . If I don't use duplex print, printer works fine. Probably duplex unit is defective.
Thank You so much for your helpful video!!! I just repaired two HP Color LaserJet CP4525 printers. Tried just removing the sticky foam padding, but still got the 59.F0 error. Did the shrink tubing and both are now working!!! I have two of these printers because the first one got this error over a year ago and I ended up buying a used one which lasted until now. You save me from buying a third one. Thank You - Thank You!!!
no problem. yeah, it's important to put the shrink wrap, or even a small strip of the felt proofing material you can get from RICOH back where the old stuff was, as metal to metal will cause magnetization, which will cause the slight hold on the arm and throw the 59 error again.
I had never done this before but your video helped me to get it done. The reassembly was very helpful. It took me about 2 hours and I slowly worked through my machine, pausing your video as I went. The printer works perfectly. Sadly, I had a few left over screws.
I just did the same thing today and had the same experience with a couple left over screws lol. But I'm happy to have a working printer again. This video was amazing!
Great video! I've probably done 50 of these across all the various models, never even occurred to me to leave the dc controller in place. It usually takes me just under an hour start to finish so I'm looking forward to the next one I have to do to try this shortcut.
Спасибо! Thank you! I made it the same way (not removing completely that PCB on left side) and that was before i saw your vid. But the main thing i lerned in this vid - is to rotate the motor till gear becomes fixed. I didn’t and I have that error again. Tomorrow i gonna do it. But my 59.0F error was with some scrunch sound when it tries to make self-calibration.
You can just take off the arm with spring & scrape off the sticky pad material & clean both sides with rubber cleaner or rubbing alcohol & leave just the shiny metal, it will only click once at start up & after printing I think. They use a quiet pad mainly to stop the clicking sound on paper pick-up clutches where it clicks on every page pulled & would be annoying - they use the same solonid clutch here. Or, you don't have to clean off the pad (but do clean under the arm) & you can use a little Q-tip cotton where the pad is & put a 2 inch strip of clear tape over it from the round magnet end all the way to the back side of the L shape. It will never come off for 10 years or so.
I did everything and the error remained including turning the motor till it clicked. Cleaned the remaining sponge and adhesive off the solenoid. Went back and added plastic in case it needed some height. Reseated everything on a third attempt and still nothing. At this point is it more lilely that the ITB needs to be replaced or something else?
Hi Can you please help me with advice . At point 15:05 I forgot to open side panel ( I look another video vith screws positions) and take out ITB . So i completed all , solenoid stopped gears as in your video but I get ;-) Error 59;C0 . How to align all gears to right position to save fix? , thanks !
Thank you for your help on this... I followed all your steps, but it still threw a 59.F0 right away on start up before I even printed anything, any ideas?
if you rotated the motor clockwise and watched the solenoid gear stop with the transfer belt out of the machine, and also waited to install the transfer belt witht the right door open until it prompts you to close the door, and it still throws the code, chances are it's a bad fuser drive gear assembly that requires a lot more dissasembly to fix.. first, I would try a new belt, then if that fails, replace the fuser drive assembly. also, make sure your shrink wrap stayed on the solenoid, as it could be magnetizing and sticking open
one question, i finished everything, but when i put it back together, i get a message as if i don't have the transfer kit installed. what could it be? is it that i connected something wrong?
I followed the solution for my CP4525dn and now the printer displays error 59.C0 upon bootup. The printer's gears are making a screech when booting up. What should I try?
Thanks for this movie. i have a CM3530 printing fine on USB but cannot connect it via LAN, win10 dose not recognize the LAN. The cable is fine, ip4 is fine. possible the formatter board needs to replace?
unfortunately yes, sounds like a bad network port. before doing that make sure the port in your driver is set to the IP address for the printer. also, make sure the the IP is set to static for the printer, not DHCP, unless you are using a host name for the printer, then keep it DHCP
the only reason that could have happened, is if you disconnected anything related to tray 1 from the DC Controller. or possibly, tray settings were changed from what it was to something different that your driver is asking to print on. Any Type, Any Size would be the preferred setting, especially in an environment that prints more than 2 types/sizes of paper, i.e. Letter/Legal, and then maybe labels, or envelopes.
Thanks for the video, I already tried twice using other video's, this one is a lot faster. However, the printer for the 3rd time keeps saying 59.F0. Could the solonoid be actually broken ?
one of two things, the fuser driver gear assembly that the transfer solenoid is attatched to is faulty, or the transfer belt itself is bad, also, try cleaning the sensor located near the cyan toner towards front of machine that readds the transfer belt..
This was a GREAT video and ended up solving the transfer belt 59.F0 error. BUT... now i have a different problem! So after the belt was installed, I tried to print the demo page, and the paper got wrapped up in the fuser. I removed the fuser, removed the paper, reinserted the fuser and it started trying to reprint the demo page... Again, the paper got wrapped up in the fuser. Same procedure... removed fuser, removed paper, replaced fuser and got a 50.7 fuser error. Tried everything I could think of, including reconnecting the connectors (J117, J123) on the DC controller PCA. I didn't run the sensor test to test the fuser pressure-release sensor (H) SR7 but got a used replacement fuser and the same error occurs... It's VERY frustrating... You know these machines so well... Any ideas what I can try??? Thanks in advance!
@@ShyRockFreak86 I got 2 used fusers and it's always generating the same error. If there any magic I can try. Again, your transfer belt video was simply excellent.
it is very similar, however, in most cases of my experience, the solenoid fix rarely works, but still good to do, for eliminating one of the culprates. two other ways to fix them is to clean the sensor above the Cyan toner that reads the Transfer Belt on the left side looking into the transfer belt area, another is to reseat the maintenance count flag on the transfer belt, or replace the transfer belt.. if all that fails, it's most likely the fuser drive assembly.
Any idea why I'd be getting Memory error for the cartridges now? They are all HP brand and only the Magenta was low. I've tried the service menu and updated the firmware with no luck.
@@ShyRockFreak86 I tried that and disassembled all the way to the point as if I was going to repair the solenoid again. I also updated the firmware. No luck with anything this far. Is there a way to bypass the 10.10.10 and 10.10.03 errors and use the printer anyway? In short I know I can send stuff and cancel it through the menu and it will print. These errors have driven me crazy. Thanks.
@@mikejones7530 Also sometimes static can build up on the chip itself i have had this happen several times sometimes you can take your finger and wipe it across the chip and it will work again sometimes.
@@combataddict I have new chip replacements but haven't used them since i do not need to refill the cartridges yet. I did figure a way to get my printer to print without the hassle of canceling the job and bypassing the error. Thanks for the recommendation.
It is a similar repair, but more involved. I uploaded a video on repairing the M575, same as M551, but with the scanner. It should help you with some tips on the repair. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-KQpXPms-xhI.htmlsi=P01YUuMfsoxk0k4c
Fixed the error but now the prints are really faded, about half as dense as before. Fuser ITB and toner cartridges are all good. Any idea what might’ve gone wrong?
Not sure, really. I’d try a new transfer roller. Then, take some alcohol and clean the formatter terminals. And maybe reconnect the connections on the DC controller
Hi, my church has a HP CM4730. All of a sudden, I got the halftone calibration error after swapping the toner and all print outs become black and white. I have changed the toner back, but I still get the same error. Any recommendations? Update:. I replace the transfer belt and everything works fine
@@mtso1122 replace the toner one by one. Toner is unpredictable, always. That is a constant. One of them is bad. The 4730 is a workhorse of a color machine. Not much should fail with that box.
Mohon bantuan tuan, Hp laserjet m551 milik saya hasil cetak warna nya tidak selaras dan bergeser, apa yang harus saya lakukan, sudah saya kaloberasi pun tidak berpengaruh
59.F0 errors are usually the solenoid. rarely it's the main fuser drive assembly. and even rarer than that, it's the transfer belt. the only way to tell, is to clean the solenoid. if the error persists after the cleaning, try a belt, if the error is still there, it's the fuser drive assembly
Why do you use that shrinktube? I've removed the sticky pads from Solenoids (a lot of them in the past on older Konica Minolta Printers), just cleaned them with alcohol and that should be fine without any tubing... The pad is just for reducing the clicky noise as far as I know?! So just wiping off the pad should do the job imho.
The pad is also used to prevent magnetization when the lever is activated. The same errors will come back if you don’t prevent the magnetism of the lever hitting the solenoid housing.
Also, just cleaning the old residue is kinda lazy and will cause callbacks, a stat in my line of work I take seriously and have kept at one of the lowest within my region for 8 years. Pride in your work to leave the machine in better condition than when you arrived is our goal as service technicians.
@@ShyRockFreak86 I really appreciate your work and even more people like you making Videos about the repairs as searching the error and finding a solution can take endless hours. I was just wondering about the tube as we've done that with just cleaning and a piece of Scotch Tape in the past 15 yrs ago. And yes, it's also my will to leave the machine in better condition than it came from the factory. HP especially did such a terrible job with the never M477 M452 Fusers, the Pressure/Heatroller all die after ~50k Pages and a new Fuser is nearly as expensive as a new machine... We did hundreds of hours of testing and finding a supplier of reliable spare rollers, finally found a manufacturer and have to pay 45€ each instead of 10€ for crappy China rollers... BUT they last way over 100k pages, better then the genuine ones from HP which come with the Fuser as you can't buy the roller from HP as a spare part separately, which is an environmental disaster anyways as millions of these printers end in the landfill at a quarter of their lifetime. 🤯😢
@@ShyRockFreak86 the most imported thing for me is to dont take the maindrive out. On the 575 it was possible to leave the msindrive insinde i will try it on the m680
Unfortunately, it’s probably the main fuser drive assembly. My coworkers just ran into this. For us, if it is the fuser drive Assembly, we replace the machine as it takes between 2-6 hours. Not worth it for us.
I am your new subscriber please! Make a video for the same problem in Hp Laserjet MFP color 500 M575 or similar to any model like M525. please help me😭😭😭
I will eventually do the M551/575, but the M525 is a B&W and only ever has feed solenoid issues, which is just time consuming to break down to get to the solenoid, nothing special
@@ShyRockFreak86 I have opened my printer but can't do the re-fittings. My printer Model: Hp color laserjet MFP 500 color M575. Can you help me with this?
What about it? Check the transfer belt for ease of rotation, replace if damaged. Or it could be a bad ITB motor. If this is after you fixed a 59.F0, then check all harness connections
Prove it.. tag me.. starting from disconnecting the power and network cables, fixing the solenoid, and until you get it powered on and printing a config page.. 15 minutes. no video cuts.
