One of the best repairs I have seen on the internet....I found out about your channel from watching your son and you building the one man cabin in the woods
This great to see I repair all my rods we live in a it’s broke throw it away society and it’s fantastic to see rods being repaired rather than binned thanks for the videos god bless
An absolutely great instructional video. I used some of the techniques to successfully fix a beachcaster with split male and female rod ferrules. Many thanks.
Hi Graham, I think you videos are smashing! I wasnt looking to watch a vidoe on how to fix rods but I enjoy whatching all you videos. Happy fishing! All the best to you and your son
I enjoyed this video guys! Nice to see others making repairs to fishing gear; becoming rare in today's 'throw away' society. Nice save on that rod, Graeme!
+TAFishing you´re right Mr. Pullen. I do it with Fiberglassrods from the time, when the GDR existed. Put new Rings on it, a Baitcaster, braidet Line and you have the most Fun with this extremely sensitive full Action Rods (there is nothing better)! The only Thing Left to say is, that I was born only months before the Berlin Wall fell :-)
I’ve done the same repair a number of times. Was always glad that I saved broken rod pieces. The 1” stub from the original test fit was enough for a solid repair, plus the upper section should have fit nicely over the broken splint about the same amount. Maybe your break at the guide is why so many rods now have single legged guides.
I bought a rod and reel combo yesterday, a Daiwa Kevin Nash Dictator rod and Shimano 6010 bait runner reel for a tenner, I couldn't believe what I was seeing and expected the bloke to say it was the wrong price or the reel is not included with the rod, but it was so happy days. It always pays to have a look in secondhand shops. :D
Sorry to of the loss...I had the same with my Grandfather hovering over my shoulder.."Keep it straight and let the saw do the work"...A different generation.
Great video. I repaired a beachcaster like that but using a bit of copper pipe. worked just as well and i had to loose 4 inches out of it due to fraying of the fibre.
Dear sir, i really liked your all videos and it's always joyful to watch your videos. I have a small concern, I am having a long 7 feet fishing rod and it's my lucky one so I never forget to bring it with me in my every fishing but due to it's long size it is quite very difficult to carry it everywhere. CAN YOU PLEASE HELP ME OUT HOW TO CONVERT THIS SINGLE ROD IN TO 2 PIECE PORTABLE ROD. IF YOU MAKE ONE VIDEO OVER THIS TOPIC I WILL BE REALLY VERY THANKFUL TO YOU.
Great video , I found a few rods stuck under the house of latest rental . Penn rods aswell. Nothing better than buggering around in ones shed ,under the house ect .The female of the species can have the bathroom.
I got masking tape as a child for Christmas a few times, I always love using it for random projects myself and you sir know your adhesive tapes and tricks, epoxy skills as well. Have you ever tried the super glue (cyanoacrylate) on rods?
I've got a horrible cheep 15ft beachcaster with a solid glass tip section which doesn't have enough bight detection. I've heard of people sanding there's down. have any of you got any advice in doing this. I've also got a couple of old solid rods which I could fashion a replacement pice. Thanks in advance.
Great Fix.. Thank you very much. = Cheap, easy, and saves $... I can now fix my salt water serf casting 10 foot fishing pole. Thank you for a GREAT FIX. what 2 part epoxy glue do you use? or What would you recommend? I have the the Nylon Threading, and spare Parts I have 2 part epoxy glue. But what do you recommend using for the 2 part epoxy glue???? Great video, Thumbs up, And thank you for your Time...
This is the best repair so far on the web, but you are relying on the strength of the adhesive on the masking tape for the repair. What if a thin cloth of fiberglass was wrapped on the inside shim, and then it is saturated with the epoxy?
Hi! Just watched you video, it gave me an idea. I have a 10' 6" fly rod, old one off ebay and really nice, but it's a 2 piece and I travel by motor bike which makes it impossible to carry. The idea is to cut both section in 2 install ferrules and end up with a 4 piece. Any advice?
Sounds like it might work but I have never fitted ferrules on a rod...Is there a chance there might a a 4-piece travel flyrod on offer on ebay ? That would save you a lot of hassle.
@@TAFishing could do but what I failed to mention I have 6 two piece rods which give me the same challenge. Now that I'm no longer living in Scotland where my dear sister would ferry me around with a rod tube on the roof, im on 2 wheels in the Philippines! Still loving my fishing but limited to my only 4 piece outfit. Budget doesn't make eBay viable anymore due to postage charges to Philippines. So I'm a bit screwed! Only option seems to be modifying my rods or riding around like Robin Hood with rods strapped to my back!!! Any suggestions or Furthe advice would be greatly appreciated as all on RU-vid seem to refer to bamboo rod building.
Very nice tip about warming the glue, also the space wood base for cutting. I do it differently though. I have never used masking tape as packers. In the long run that and it’s glue will deteriorate, probably compress and soften. Instead I spend more time getting a repair piece of the same carbon of the same taper. I have collected loads of discarded broken rod sections over the years which helps. Most big commercial fisheries frequently have broken rod section bits in their bins but good tackle shops also stock spares for splicing. I glue the thicker part of the splice first, using the epoxy you suggest. If it’s a good fit you don’t need much glue at all, the more of the internal splice resting on the internal wall for even support the better. Very occasionally I have had to pack to stop your wobble. If you have to with your repair piece again best to pack inside the thicker section as the narrow section flexes more in use. I don’t pack with tape but with an even spiral of thick rod wipping or braid, putting this on after the glue is applied. The only disadvantage is you must really use a longer setting epoxy to have enough time to do it. No bad thing as that has more chance to fill the tiny gaps to stop your wobble! As you pull that lower section up to lock it you turn it too which keeps the packing spiral in place. Sound complicated, it’s not, it’s easy and works. Once it’s tight and there is no wobble you just need to hang the section narrow side down so the glue stays in the joint and cannot run out although the spiral traps it anyway. Wipe off surplus glue, cut any braid poking out of the joint and leave to set at least a couple of days. There will be a slight residue of epoxy on the projecting thin section of the splice. Very light circular sending takes that off. Having half the joint set it’s much easier to push in the thinner splice without anything now moving. You should get away with just a thin coating of epoxy on that thinner joint, which helps keep the repair both light and flexible too. I whip over the joint a good two inches. Use permanent marker to colour matches existing whipping. Clear epoxy completes the repair, getting it applied just thick enough before setting in the key. The trouble is the 4 minute stuff, if you wait until it thickens a bit to stop drips may set smooth but may also set air bubbles in the finish. That is why one coat “ high build” is so much better. I usually spend hours turning the rod, watching the TV, but few have that patience. I have seen brilliant slow turning rod holders which prevent this. A simple V support at one end and a drill type “ Chuck” to clamp around the thicker end. A rod builder I know often has half a dozen sections turning slowly together run off a single slow electric motor and pulleys turning other rod holders. Bet there’s something commercial to do it….I will stick to the slow process whilst watching TV….in an old jumper in case I nod off and the epoxy and I have an unfortunate encounter as a result! Lol
Wish I could hook into a fish big enough to potentially snap my rod. Done this fix a million times more often than not because I have stepped on the mother suckers! If not lending gear to people who are complete novice. Good watch morale of the story keep your broken bits. Good as new once repaired in this fashion :)
Absolutely. Cheap rods may be more prone to inherent construction flaws, but expensive rods are usually more brittle and less able to survive forces outside of those normally associated with fishing, such as being smacked into unyielding objects. If you are a clumsy sod, buy cheap rods; they'll either survive your hamfistedness, or at worst not mean a lot of money wasted. Expensive rods WILL break if you mistreat them. Once you are accustomed to handling rods, you'll appreciate how much better the more expensive ones will perform, and can use them with confidence.
