I hope you enjoyed this video ! The replacement rotor used in the video is available here: ebay.us/kYoiGp (US & Americas), ebay.us/jjlMzD (Europe), ebay.us/TNXoau (France). It ensures a perfect functionning of the pump and the vanes are turned in the same direction as the original one, i.e. to the right when viewed from above (to the left when viewed from below !). Happy DIY ! 😉
@@kentberg9291 Absolutely ! When you hold the motor in your hand and face the drive head, it turns clockwise. In addition, the vanes must be correctly oriented as on the original rotor, i.e. to the right when viewed from above (to the left when viewed from below !). It's essential for proper functioning. Congratulations on spotting this detail ! 😉You need to be particularly careful, as there are many poor-quality Chinese copies...
You are the ONLY one that explained in GREAT detail how to do such a repair.. I appreciate the degree of your knowledge and I thank you for such a wonderful video. You sir are a true Master Mechanic //Educator..A+A+A+A+A++++
I haved owned a R107 for many years and have for some time be considering buying a R230 but have ben put off by horror stories about problems with leaking roofs and pump problems.Your video's have shown me that all is fixable and has given me renewed enthusiasm for a R230
WOW you did an awesome job explaining step by step all the way through. I appreciate all your videos as it is so hard to find any like it. Thank you so much for doing them!!!
I just LOVE YOU!!! Yes, I am a Nurse by trade and I pay a lot of attention to detail. Your video is just that very detailed and very easy for anyone to understand and follow. You are awesome, absolutely awesome!!😘
Fantastic video, merci beaucoup. I appreciate in particular that you mentioned the interchangeability with the three models, your demonstration of how to measure the pressure provided to calibrate the pump, how you point out the importance of alignment during assembly and how to prepare for it during disassembly. 👍
Excellent clear instructions 👌 May I never have to do this, but I sure know I will follow your careful instructions, if I ever have to do this process. Thank you.😊
I am ditto of tolipapa's comment. Suspecting that this is the way your videos may be constructed, I look forward to viewing all the others. Thank you for being absolutely thorough ... the sign of a TRUE TEACHER and MASTER MECHANIC! To be both demands I too must be generous with my A+'s!!!
Hey man, thanks a million - just pulled my pump out tonight; '01 CL600 - had blown the fuse a couple times. Looking at it after watching the careful alignment work you did, I could see that the carbon rings were not neatly aligned. Taking it apart, I found the rotor was not cracked - it all looked good. I did swap the pallets in the slots end-for-end, to put a new round edge out. I carefully reassembled the unit, following your vid. Pressure checking got me to ~58 psi, so I decided it was good. Didn't blow the 25A fuse I put in-line to my 12V source. Reinstalled it, will put a fuse in and test it tomorrow. Thanks again for your thorough vid - if I hadn't seen the alignment care you took, I wouldn't have realized it was critical! This is the first time I'd really looked at the spare tire, while I was back there - manufacturing date of 13th week of 2001; never been on the road - neat!
thank you master for your great well-organized way of explanation in details step by step. I was wondering if there could be a chance to make more videos specifically about the model W220, such as : 1- Troubleshooting airmatic and all related issues for car losing leveling pressure. 2- Door panels removals and reason(s) for center lock of some doors is not functioning while other doors working, and how to tackle this issue. If anyone agrees with me on the above mentioned issues, please like for him to see. Thank you again in advance for all your efforts, appreciate it👍 ... God bless you.
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!!!!!!!!! IMPRESSIVE. STEP BY STEP, AND THE TESTING WAS AWESOME! i APPRECIATE YOU MAKING THIS VIDEO. Now I can fix my PSE pump. Thanks for the link for the rotor to buy!!
Amazing. Sistematic and super clear. I already subscribe. I hope you always healthy and make more of tutorial like this. Specialy for old model of mercedes benz w220.
I want also to say that this is one of the few videos that explains the issues correctly in detail. There are many videos here. Some of the authors truly do not understand what they are talking about. Others are just scratching the surface, such as "change Fuse 62." I do not want to sound like a chauvinist after living in New York for 50 years but perhaps it is because the author is European...... The part about tightening the screws on the turbine until you get 43 psi "takes the cake" because you do not find it anywhere. Perhaps, the warning about the inserts in the plastic hose connector could be added. Thank you very much !!
One sentence would be enough to summarize my reactions after viewing your video : Omedetou ! You are a rare real " Sensei " ( in japanese language) Thks for helping MB and DIY lovers to maintain and keep their MB running " in Aller Welt " at an affordable cost. Clear image, clear voice, clear english ( not your mother language nor mine, but more understandable than a lot of original speakers) , clear explanations and, last but not least, real passion to share your knowledge. Congratulation ! Bravo ! One question : as the rotor to be changed is that expensive ( +/-119€ -2020-05-18) and as you have at hand the broken parts, have you ever tried to glue them together and see how long it could last or ever tried to make a 3D printing and cheap copy of it ? Please, consider my question as a suggestion et let's know how it works or worked ! Merci beaucoup ! Ciao.
Thank you very much for your compliments! To answer your questions, I didn't try to glue the broken rotor because the mechanical constraints are such that I doubt the glue will hold... I highly recommend this rotor (in the description of this video). It's a premium rotor ans iIts price is not so high compared to the replacement cost of the pump at MB... more than $1000 for the part and you will have to add labor because a new pump requires programming. If you want your pump to work as it originally was, you can forget about cheap rotors ! They will not last very long and the pump will not work properly...
Super video. Have you ever repaired the Variodach motor/rotor? There are 100's if not more, people who would really appreciate any help you could give....
When I got my SL R230 (build May 2006) I discovered my drivers side headrest angle setting is broken. The high rise and fall mechanism in the seat back works fine and I know this to be a separate mechanism. I feel sure it is nylon or plastic gear damage, someone has unknowingly wrenched the headrest away form the seat and sheared a cog or two. Often intermediate settings require you to extend something fully and then they fall back to the start, perhaps someone didn't explore the options before forcing it. Do you have any idea how to deconstruct, inspect, replace the cogs and reconstruct the headrest? I suspect the dealer might be unfamiliar with this one and subsequently the cost of repair could be quite high. Keen to have a go at repairing it myself, with your expert guideance if possible. I am encouraged of course, one by your instruction technique, and also by the fact there are no computers modules, or SAM modules involved in this headrest. Have looked for an exploded drawing unsuccessfully. Appreciate whatever help you are able to provide.
Hi. My Multicontur Seats don‘t pumped anymore. Mercedes was saying the Vakuumpump was tested and it becomes no power. Im confused because my central locking System works perfectly. Is this the same Pump? I just bought a used with the original Partnumber A0008005648. I will replace it and test if this will work. Thanks for your Videos. You do a great Job!
Please help, I am desperate! This is my 4th time I am rebuilding this motor. Before I got 3 bar from the pump and experienced nearly no problems following this guide. But now, no matter what, I cant go over 1 bar. The aligment of the grooves is better than ever, everything works as it supposed to, but no matter how much I tighten the screws, max I can get is a bit over 1 bar (I had 2 bar earlier this day, and since then I only improved the assembly). I have even super cleaned all the plastic parts, the case and rotor, made sure when they spin blades slide out properly Inside, made sure the metal ring is sitting tightly on motors shaft etc. If the 2 motor pipes are pointin towards me, the right one pushes the air out and the left one sucking. The left side also has small round rubber thing that I always used before, but now when it is put in place, I get almost no pressure from neither of tubes. Also if screws are tighten too much or I have the small rubber installed the pump starts to rapidly slow down and burns the fuse. So, what could be wrong? The battery is 100% charges over 14v. I am begging you! 😭
Great video! I am doing the repair right now and I also replaced the electric motor. I put everything back together and it seems to not create any vacuum. I pressure tested the system and it holds pressure up to 5-6 PSI. What am I missing? Do you know which way to rotor is supposed to rotate? Maybe I got the polarity of the motor wrong?
Hello ! A pressure of 6 psi is much too low. The pump will not work with such a low pressure... The output pressure of the pump depends mainly on the quality of the rotor. With the rotor I mentioned in the video description, you can easily get 51 psi (3.5 bar) ! And the pump works great. Is your new motor identical to the original one ? And why did you change the motor ? When you hold the motor in your hand and you face the drive head, the drive head must turn clockwise ! 😉
Great video. I'm not sure about the direction of the blades. Are you sure the rounded edge needs to be outside? I think the rounded edge needs to be inside.
Hello ! Thanks for your compliment ! On a blade, there are two opposite rounded edges and two opposite flat edges. Thus, the rounded edges will be positioned outside and inside while the flat edges will be positioned above and below.
I hav a 2005 sl 500 it is not blowing a fuse this time. I hav a lite on when trunk lid is up but when it is closed the lite goes off and no door locks or convertible top will not work. I get the message to close trunk partition. Any information would be much appreciated
The vacuum pump and locking system works, but the security system is flashing the lights, inside, front and rear. I was told this security system is part of the PSE. Do I need to completely replace this or is there a possible repair I can do, or is there a by-pass for the security system that I can do myself?
Thank you for the detailed instructions. Unfortunately, I was not able to increase the pressure in the motor after replacing the rotor. Wondering if something else was causing the problem for my central locking not to work, I purchased a replacement of the entire unit (black box) and connected the 2 brackets but still didn't work. Can you advice what may be the cause of the issues please
Hello Andy ! If the pressure at the pump outlet is not good, it is either that the rotor is of bad quality (if you chose the one that I indicate in the description of this video, in this case, there will be no problem), or that the elements of the turbine are not perfectly aligned (just realign them by taking your time), or that your pump motor is tired (you can take the one from the other pump)... And test on a well-charged battery ! If the central locking does not work but all the other pneumatic functions of the car work, your problem is probably due to an air leak... In addition, remember to check if the central locking system works by using the button on the dashboard, as this could be a problem with the key... And of course, check the 20 amp pump fuse. You must hear the pump running when it is in the car and you activate a function. If nothing is working, you may have a power supply problem, which would explain why neither pump is working. Check the pump connectors (black box). Good luck with that !
Hello Greg ! You can buy the rotor here : ebay.us/kYoiGp (US and Americas), ebay.us/jjlMzD (UK and Europe). The links are also visible in the description below the video. 😉
Hi ! Thanks a lot ! The silver cylinder is the motor. I make a descrition of the pump elements in the video at 1 minute 20 seconds. If it smells burnt, it's not a good sign. The motor may be burned. Or, the rotor is broken, it prevents the motor from running and the motor overheats, hence the smell. First, unsolder the motor and test it on a 12V battery as in the video (don't forget the fuse to protect the motor). If you hear that the motor tries to run and jams then disassemble the turbine because the rotor could be broken...
Hello today I replaced my trunk latch because it was leaking air. So now that is fixed. The door locks do not go up and down anymore and the seats don't work. I can hear the air pump pumping but I'm not sure what to do next. I've read where there could be a crack in the air hose causing the seats to not work properly. If I have 1 leak does it shut down all the air functions? Are the locks connected to the seat? When I bought the car the seats didn't work but everything else worked fine. Any suggestions would be great! I am very mechanical so I would like to fix this car myself. Thank you for the great video! I subscribed to your channel.
"I've read where there could be a crack in the air hose causing the seats to not work properly." ---> Yes that's right, I will do a video on how to fix that crack... " If I have 1 leak does it shut down all the air functions?" ---> No, all air functions are independent. However, if nothing works, the problem comes from the pump itself. "Are the locks connected to the seat?" ---> No ! "When I bought the car the seats didn't work but everything else worked fine." ---> Your lumbar support is leaking or there is a crack in the air hose...
Hello ! There is no part number for the rotor ! There is only a part number for the entire pump (the black box). Your Mercedes dealer will only sell you the entire pump, not the rotor separately. However, in the video description link, you will find a rotor of excellent quality. It is very important to replace the broken rotor with a very good quality one, otherwise the pump will not work properly and the motor may burn over time or the rotor may break.
My pump keeps humming on and off and every few days my trunk actuator stops working and I have to pull that 20amp fuse to reset it but, I noticed you said the fuse blows. My fuse never blows so, do I have the same problem?
Hello, If your pump runs very frequently without you doing anything in particular, then it could be a leak in your lumbar cushion. To find out for sure, set the support button on all seats to zero to see if the pump stops.
Thank you for posting this, by any chance do you know wherre to get the motors as well, I have an R230 2011 that i need to fix the pse. also how do remove the piece from the shaft that locks the new fan? Thank you!
Hello, unfortunately not. However, the motor is normally protected by the pump's fuse... Before trying to replace it, I suggest you, after removing the turbine, to test your motor on 12 volts. Good luck !
Hello, concerning the W124 model, I don't have the specifications but 20 psi seems rather low. However, if you don't hear any noise, check the pump fuse, the electrical connector connected to the pump and the electrical connections inside the pump.
Hi there, enjoying your videos but I have followed your steps and removed pump and disassembled and found that the impeller and games are ok. What else could it be? I also got a funny smell from inside the box, is that normal? Thanks
Hello ! The pump motor may be burned out... First of all, remove the motor from the pump by unsoldering the two wires as in the video and check that it works with a 12V battery. No need to reassemble the rotor for this. Pay attention to the polarity !
Would a broken rotor blow the PSE fuse IMMEDIATELY once a new fuse is installed? Or is that usually caused by some other failure in the PSE system? I'm thinking about buying your rotor, but just not sure it's going to fix my issue.
Yes ! When the rotor is broken it usually prevents the motor from running and the fuse blows immediately when you put a new one in. This is the most common failure. However, you may have a short circuit somewhere or a blown motor and this would also blow the fuse, but this is much rarer because this pump is designed to electronically stop a function when the motor runs too long to prevent it from blowing.
Hello, thank you for your video, the amount of detail is impeccable. I have a question maybe you can assist with. My s55 amg pse system is still working, all softclose works and all locks work, however, the pump runs for quite a long time after a soft close action is performed, nearly 10 seconds. The softclose will work, it is just slow. This is consistent across all doors. The central locks are also a little slower than I’ve seen in other videos, but again, they still work. My question is do you think my pse pump is not producing enough pressure? In theory if that is the case, could I just go into the pse pump and turn the screws 1/16 turn and try again? I dont think my rotating assembly is broken since the fuse never pops, but maybe it is worn? Any thoughts from you would be greatly appreciated, I am trying to avoid having to get a whole new pump!
Hello ! Thank you for your compliments. 😊 First of all, make sure that the rear battery in the boot is well charged. Do not hesitate to charge it with a charger. If all the pneumatic functions as a whole are slowed down, the pump rotor may be worn out and the pump will not deliver the required pressure. Check the pressure at the impeller outlet as I do in the video. The minimum pressure should be 3 bar (43 psi) and ideally 3.5 bar (51 psi). Do not attempt to re-tighten the turbine as the original tightening is ideal and over tightening can break the outer casing of the turbine. If not, there may be an air leak somewhere in the pump itself, although this is quite rare. An air leak in the pneumatic lines seems unlikely to me since all pneumatic functions are slowed down and not just one... 😉
@@IfixmyBenz thank you so much for your reply. I have a feeling my main battery is good as the car starts right up and has no issues driving, no weird electrical errors or quirks. I will test the pump as described in your video and see what the results are. I have a feeling you are correct that the roter/impeller assembly is worn just enough to allow the pump to run for extended times due to not reaching required pressure, but NOT worn enough to prevent functions from not working all together. Ill report back my findings, thanks again for your help
Hi there, I just completed the test and as suspected my pump is not making 3bar of pressure no matter what air gauge I use (i tried 3 different setups). Best I ever saw was 2.5 bar, which makes a lot of sense considering every soft close thing works, but its just slow. I have the new rotor assembly on order and will attempt a rebuild when it arrives. Other good news is I saw no evidence of heat damage anywhere on the motor or where the hoses from the motor connect to the plastic solenoid board. I think this should get me going back to 100%, but ill keep updating incase anybody else is curious about this.
Finally got my new rotor and after rebuild we are good to go, 3bar and the soft close works and lets the doors go after 3 seconds as it should. Another thing I will probably replace soon is the O rings on the white plastic part that connects to the rotor assembly. Mine were covered in old graphite and dont seem to be very snug. When testing I could wiggle the white part to get an air leak then move it back so it would seal. When leaking it would only make 2bar. I installed it in such a way that it was sealing, but I’m not sure if it will last or not. All I know is the rotor is new and not the problem. The OEM rotor had clear signs of wear and tear. If I figure out the exact O ring size ill post it here. I have a couple sizes on order to try.
Thanks for the great video! I just took my rotor out of the pump because there was very little air pressure. But the rotor is not broken just look a little worn out. Can this cause the problem? I wanted to buy the rotor in the link but its out of stock. Do you know another good one?
Hello ! If the rotor shows wear marks, there is nothing abnormal after a few years. However, you can make sure that your rotor is working properly by performing a pressure test by connecting the pump motor directly to a battery as I show in the video. If you have a lack of pressure in your car's pneumatic system, it could also be a leak in a pipe, an actuator or the pump itself. If the drop in pressure only concerns a particular pneumatic line and there are no concerns on the other lines then you can move towards a leakage search on that particular line (pipe and actuator).
Hello ! Any manual bike pump with a pressure gauge and an inflatable device (adaptator) will be OK ! For example, this pump will be perfect: amzn.to/2Z2ig14. Or, you can go to a bicycle shop !
