Resurfacing the pump housing faces by hand is poor practice. The housing should be set face-down on the sand paper supported by a flat surface (metal or a piece of glass). That will enable you to get a true (flat and level) finished surface.
Clean the magnets as best as you can with a rag or paper towel and then use your air to blow the filings away. They come clean and it works every time.
Great exclamational video. Thought my 160 trans was tired but had a sheared wheel key. Talk about jumping for joy when I found that. This guy is amazing with techniques. Wish I had his skills.
I guess them transmissions purg them selfs because no one ever shows pulling the latch out on back and moving shifter back and forth to perg the air out I'm still going to do it
I am trying to be helpful- and not sound like a jerk- but you really want to torque those bolts in the aluminum tranny case to specs. I stripped a pump bolt once and had to repair it. I also only use synthetic 5w-30 motor oil. The 5w-50 gets too thick and you can lose speed once it heats up. I lost 1.5mph. Went back to 5w-30. I have rebuilt 3 k46A transmissions on different LTR-180 Deeres. I can hear the idler pulleys needing grease or replacement. Again just trying to help.
Haven watched over an hour long video earlier explaining this process your video is a great refresher. Definitely not as detailed but I don’t have another hour unless I forget those little important details in which I will go back to the more detailed video. Thanks
I loved watching this video. My LA150 quit moving after half hour mowing last summer, I did take it down and changed the fluid but never took the cover off to check anything so now when weather breaks again I am going to take it apart and repair it. The mower itself runs fine after I rebuilt the whole deck, new carb, fuel pump, voltage reg. tires, plugs, battery. My dad taught me well about mechanics, mostly auto motors and transmissions as he rebuilt them for over 50 years.
I have a 2015 D160 with 170hrs. It struggles to get up hills, especially when hot. It's been getting worse over the last couple years. My back yard has a steep hill. After finding out how common this is and the cause, I removed the K46 and took the cover off. Everything looked ok - no big damage, probably just small wear. The magnets (four in mine) had a good amount of fine shavings. My filter is a screen, not paper. I cleaned everything up and resealed the case. The old oil looked very bad - thin and grey. I put fresh 5W40 synthetic in it, and it climbs hills so much better now. Hopefully I caught it before too much damage was done. I don't do any snow blowing/pushing or tow much of anything, just a lawn aerator once a year. I just wanted everyone to know that if you catch it early enough, you may not need to tear into the transaxle and rebuild. I think I'll get at least another couple years out of it.
My D160 failed at 110 hours. Did the same as you but refilled with 20x50 synthetic which works excellent if there is no winter use. All the seals can be replaced without tearing down the transaxle.
My 2006, J.D. 155c, w/48" deck still drives/sounds as it did new at 701 hrs. No leaks yet, very quiet even climbing hills till it looses traction. Believed the lie it couldn't be serviced but will pull it out soon. I'll change the filter, probably fill with LUCAS oil and hope for the best.
@@michaelhorath6851 Same transmission as this one. Just take the transmission out and removed the base cover. Clean your filter. Clean the old gasket material. Add gasket maker or Hondabond to both the base plate and Transmission. Watch this video on how to fill it & install.
Excellent video! I may need to refer to this one day for my JD. I read/watched videos the trans fluid from the factory is garbage and causes a lot of wear and so the one thing I already did was drop the Trans and replace/upgrade the factory trans fluid with Full Synthetic 5W-50 oil and has been working great for 5 years. I'm hoping that upgrade will keep me from having to tear it apart and replace parts - we'll see. Since you have the Trans out, the one other thing I would do is replace the drive belt. You will need to drop the deck to replace plus you can also check the one or two other drive belt pulleys to see if the bearings are good/bad.
When my E140 K42 trans started slipping at 100hrs I replaced it with a K66 garden tractor trans. Havent had any trouble since for 377hrs. Drags trees, shovels gravel & dirt, Works great. I am presently fabing a outrigger ditch mower for it. If I had to do it all over again I would buy a 2nd hand X580. !
I have a L130 John Deere and looking to upgrade as well. The 46 is still working great after 100 hours. I have to find a plce to buy the K66 and the parts needed for the conversion.
I have a spare Tuff Torq K46 from a Husqvarna, but have you ever tried to use one in a John Deere? I understand flipping the triangle pressure plate to reverse the movement direction, but I am not sure what you mean by saying "swap out your "axles" and "shift and brake levers". Not sure why the axle would need to swapped? (8:45) The connections on the trans look the same on most various K46 models. I would think using the different models from spares for common John Deere tractors etc could make a really good video if you ever get a chance to do one. Thanks for these videos they are really helpful.
I have a LT180 too, where can I get the gear set if I don’t have spares? Also, what actually caused it to slip, Gears or the surfaces you sanded smooth?
@@Shark-qd1pz I find that the oil filter in the transmission “LT” models plug up. (I bought a used transmission from local ads for $50 and I used the gears and filter from that trans. It came from LA series). I’d pop off the bottom case and replace the filter. Put it back together and add 5w50 oil or 20w50 hydrostatic Amsoil. Part number for the filter is MIU805396
Is slipping the same as jerking? I have an L120 with a K46. It jerks on load or uphill. Same when turning left or right. I'm planning on opening it up. How did you know how to put it back together. Nice video but it would have been helpful if you explained why you were doing what you were doing. No offense.
Check your drive belt first. (Might be bad). I have another video on the transmission .Check it out: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gajrBiacPi8.html
Changing the pump/motor didn't work either. Obviously another problem which I think is the 'center section'. I also sanded that as you did but still that didn't work so I'll buy a new center section. Also could be the relief system which will be replaced with the center section. I'm getting good at taking this POS apart andre-assembling. Hopefully it will work after the hydraulic stuff is fully replaced. I will change the oil more frequently from now on (if I get it fixed)
@@WeekendHobbyMechanic maybe once you got the pump fully working it needed more fluid? I don’t know why the manufacturer made it so hard to check the fluid or add the fluid. It doesn’t make any sense.
@@WeekendHobbyMechanic Husqvarna YHT 18542 42” riding mower. I can only mow about 15-20 minutes before the hydrostatic differential starts whining and barely pulls itself. Let it cool down repeat. 🤔
You need to change your fluid. They’re a few videos on RU-vid on this. It’s pretty close the same as a John Deere. m.ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-on7aHn2v2Rs.html&pp=ygUiam9obiBkZWVyZSB0cmFuc21pc3Npb24gb2lsIGNoYW5nZQ%3D%3D
Can you remove the pan from under the tractor without removing the transmission or will the gears be falling out or does the unit need to be removed and flipped over to remove.
When you removed the K46, the v-belt pulley was on top of the plastic fan. When you installed it, you put the fan above the pulley. ??? Wondering if you caught it, but didn't mention it? Great video. BTW, The Deere parts website shows the pulley above the fan, like when you removed the tranny.
I did this sanding work and it made a small difference buy not 100% better. I have now ordered 2 new pumps and will install and hopefully I'll be good as new after.
Good video, but not enough detail. I couldn't understand some of the things you said (mumbling). Where did you get parts? I definitely appreciate the video. With better production you would be phenomenal. BTW, far better than I could do. Thank you!
Nice job bringing that back to life! Why do you use the Castrol 5W50 and not a J20C spec like the Shell Spirax S4 TXM at Canadian Tire? Are you down in the Valley or on the South shore?
I had put rebuild transmission on my D170, when I start the tractor it is in reverse. I can hear the transmission pump on, it does go forward and reverse but is in reverse when in neutral and starts smelling. Can't get hold of the guy I got it from. Will you know what can be the issue
My la120 doesn’t seem to want to stay in gear. If I slam the bypass lever back and forth it will go into gear for a minute. I checked that it was moving the lever on top the trans. Is this common?
C'est un bon moteur. Changer l'huile et le filtre toutes les 50 heures. Attention au nid de souris sous le capot moteur. Utilisez uniquement de l’essence de test élevé.
Pretty simple. Check the video at 4:35. Check out this video on how to remove the transmission. m.ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-on7aHn2v2Rs.html
I have a LX277 AWS Hydrostatic. When I turn the steering wheel right or left the wheels do not straighten back up. Do you have an idea why that is? There is this rod under the seat that seems to move the back wheels but it won't straighten them...it feels kind of loose when I move it left and right.
I never worked on a LX277. Make sure your spindles aren’t seizing up. Try to grease them & free them up. Then lube up the steering plate under the tractor. Hope this helps.
Bonjour, je vois que vous faites des vidéos très détaillées et très instructives. j'ai une fuite d'huile sur l'axe qui relie la roue a la boîte hydrostatique. Avez vous une vidéo pour expliquer comment procéder à la réparation. merci
Thank you. I have a D105 and need to replace the Drive Shaft. Is that as easy to take apart and can the drive shaft be replaced> The screw holding the spring broke inside of it, and I have not been able to get it out. So, I thought replacing would be the best. Thank you for your suggestions
Can’t be done. They don’t sell any parts for these transmissions. I snapped off the bolt before and was able to drill it out with a 2mm drill bit and used an easy-out to remove it. Check out these videos: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-AiBf8dBzwVY.html and ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-tpnWiIB-RC4.html
Just seems it don't help much and the right will spin, , I changed oil, didn't help, it didn't look bad at all. My old mower would go up my hill very easy, it has new drive belt, new oil, good keys on axle. Thanks for your video its great. ,
Great video. I have a question you might be able to help with. I have a 1990 Ariens tractor that is have a issue. The mower wont move forward and make a whining sound...it move backward strong and fast...just not forward. The belts seem to be tight, the fluid seem to be full, the linkage seems to be moving. The mower is in super good condition and hope to save it. Any help would be great...Thanks
@@vanover69 That's weird. Could be the gears binding up. I would start looking for a donor tractor (with a good trans) and swap out the transmission. That would be the cheapest way to go about it. It might take a while but I'm sure you could find one for $150-200.
@@WeekendHobbyMechanic well that’s good news mine is slipping when it gets warm and I can’t find a rebuild kit for it anywhere everyone is out of stock lol So if I can just do this it would be great
@@Vuhjayjay68 Check the filter if it's plugged. If you decide to tear it apart, I'd use 400-grit wet sandpaper and then 1000. The pump assembly is a bit tricky to put back together.
@@WeekendHobbyMechanic I plan on getting into it tomorrow I think I’m smart enough to get it done lol I’m just going to start with inspection and complete cleaning of everything just to see if that works
Dear Sir I have a JD lt160 it has gotten slower over the years itsabout 18 years old. I never checked the trans as I was told it was in service able but it is slow going up hills an has lost speed over the years what would suggest to try doing the trans oil change at least it runs ok on flat but struggles going up hill I did change belts an drive pullies and my drive belt is always tight which Leeds me to the trans what do you think sir Ray Stein
@@raystein4457 Screen Mesh filters can be cleaned. These are in the LA and D models. Yours might not be a screen-type filter. This filter on this LT180 model couldn't be cleaned. John Deere Part number is MIU805396
@@WeekendHobbyMechanic thank you for your help I will get a filter an oil an when I do IL change both as I said I thought you didn't have to service these n like I said it slips goin up hill an has slowed down over the years Ray Stein
So what was the post mortum? What actually causes the no pull? The pump is all i can guess, combined with the dirty oil. And where do you source parts such as gears?
@@rickcain5717 dirty filter, if surfaces not polish smooth like he's doing or too much wear/play with piston pieces,....oil will get by and not help push the pistons there are 4 surfacesthat need to be polish smooth.
@gavintube2366 thow a yellow Jonh Deer name plate and the price quadruples.. plus the fact that many parts from similar modles won't work on a deer. They may look the same but they arent.
That's just unknowledgeable jibber. All these budget riding mowers share the same fabricators of the main working parts. TuffTorq trans are used on every model regardless of color. Biggs, Kohler, etc engines are used extensively on the gas budget jobbies, and you don't need to be buying JD brand parts when there easily purchased through there Briggs or sites like Amazon etc. When servicing any of the mowers you certainly don't need to be buying through JD when all the bearing are replaceable with the best bearing brands available in the world like SK, NSK etc. Even the tightener bearings are repairable if you have a minimal shop intelligence and a few tools. If "you" can't fix it, you need to fix that first before demonstrating your inabilities publicly.
Just because the mower is green and says JOHN DEERE does not mean it was manufactured by JOHN DEERE company. Most are made by Craftsman or MTD. For the prices the riders cost they do not last long in workmanship. I have had several different brands of mowers and mostly all are not very reliable for very many hours.
