Thanks for watching. Here is a link for the switches and fuse. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07... www.amazon.com/DealEnvy-Micro... Check out my other video on this subject. • How to fix a microwave...
I'm an electrical engineer and saw the schematic. If you want to fix the fuse blowing without spending tons of money, just cut the single white wire on the middle (normally closed) switch. Do not cut the other side that has the white wire and black wire together. Tape up the white wire so it doesn't touch anything. This will disable the fuse blowing and your other safety switches will still work normally. Replace your fuse and plug in the power cord.
I wanted to thank you personally as I was contemplating spending some $400 on a new microwave. It was a simple switch and started working perfectly. Thank you so much!
Thanks for leaving information to Amazon in the description but I found the switches I needed at Ace Hardware didn't have to wait anyway thanks for your time. The normally closed switch was welded together inside switch was not moving at all
Thank you for making this video it was so helpful. I have a GE countertop microwave that keeps blowing the fuse. One of the burnt switch was the problem.
it wasn't mentioned, but the three switches aren't exactly the same: one is "normally closed" (the middle one) and two are "normally open" (the upper and bottom) It matters that the new switches are put back into the correct slot. (Yes the package of three replacement switches on amazon have one n.c. and two n.o.)
Thanks for your response I ran into the same issue But now I’m back to square 1 This worked for a few months Back to blowing fuses Guess I’ll try new switches again The new fuses were shorter not sure if it mattered
Great video. My fridgidaire microwave was blowing fuses when I would start cooking so thought it may be the high voltage capacitor thankfully it was just these switches instead (so far so good).
Thank u it really helped me in case the home warranty guy can’t fix it when he comes to my house. I have the exact same microwave as u so this is awesome
Please check out my other video. It goes over the reason the switch goes out. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8PX6d-h6H9Y.html. Don't forget to support the channel by subscribing.
I just took mine apart and the switches looked fine, sanded the switch contacts shiny again and degreased the switches with alcohol and it works again Thanks!
Thanks man I have this exact microwave. I’ve been testing everything with my meter and seen this video. I took the switch’s apart and one is burnt up! So happy I don’t need to spend 600 bucks on a new microwave thank man!
I found that the latches wear away the ramps on the latch board. This causes the door to be lower when it is closed and the latches then don't contact the switches right. Replacing the latch board is the only fix for this.
Thank you very much for posting your video. I just replaced the fuse on my microwave for the second time to get it working again. The fuse blew sometime last night, plus it blew almost exactly a year ago. Would you think the door switch issue could be the cause - or would the fuse blow more frequently? I haven't gone as far as looking at the door switches yet, I figured I'd ask this question first. (Also, I noticed scorch marks right next to one of the metal clasps that holds the fuse - I'm not sure if that is relevant.)
Great video. What position was the normally closed switch on that Frigidaire model you were working on? Was it the one in the middle or the bottom switch?
@Allen's Shenanigans Thanks Very Much! Keep up the videos! You save people money who would replace a microwave when the fuse blows by simply opening and closing its door.
Nice, but it's not the only problem why it would do so, I used to have a microwave that sometimes would heat food and some not, then it stopped working and the problem was the magnetron kept blowing the fuse, it also had the internal diode connected to the capacitor malfunctioning. So replaced both, new fuse and works like a charm
Thank you for watching. I agree there is more issues that could cause the fuse to blow, but this is the most common and easiest to diagnose. Usually if the magnatron starts to go out then there will be issues with heating also.
Thank you it really helps. Quick question. Does the black one need to be replaced with the same one or can I install a gray one to? I'm gonna order the same switches u have on ur description
If you are still having issues after changing the switches then check out my other video. It goes over another issue with the switches going bad. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8PX6d-h6H9Y.html
Hi Allen. Should I be worried that I could get a shock from the high voltage capacitor? I changed the fuse twice and it got blown both times. But I'm worried to work on the door switches as I don't know if the capacitor could give me a shock.
I'm currently trying to replace the switches like you did. I don't know which ones to order. The switches all look the same and I don't know if they're normally open normally closed or a mixture
Here is a link to Amazon: Yoiilnz KW3A Microwave Oven Door Switch 16A 125/250V Door Interloc(Normally Open & Normally Close) (2 Normally Open and 1 Normally Close) a.co/d/dVgNoNR. I also suggest to watch my updated video about this issue. It goes over what is causing the switches to go bad: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8PX6d-h6H9Y.html. Thanks for watching. Support the channel by subscribing.
Can a bad door switch case the breaker to flip? And then later on if the switch gets worse can it cause the fuse to blow? I have a GE unit and my issues began with the breaker blowing and the unit woudl work fine plugged into another outlet. The breaker only goes to the microwave outlet. I would reset the breaker and it would work fine. Now, however, the fuse blows when I open the door in the middle of cooking something. But it only does it when it wants to . Sometimes I can open and close the door during a cooking cycle and it works fine. I guess I will replace the breaker AND the door switches.
Sorry for taking so long to reply. Other people have reported their breaker blowing with a bad door switch. Mine would only blow the fuse. It might depend on which switch goes bad. Please support the channel by subscribing!
I keep blowing the 20a fuse. I tested the door switches, and they were all good. I also test the thermal fuse, and it also test good. Any idea what it might be?
I ohmed out my switches also. They checked out alright. I believe the circuitry is designed to be very sensitive. Probably would have to check the amperage going through the switch. Try changing out the switches with new ones. They aren't that expensive from Amazon. Thanks for watching. Please support the channel by subscribing.
Hi Allen, great video. Our Microwave is not blowing fuses, it just does nothing, as if it were unplugged. When it first went out we assumed the Microwave was trashed, but the next morning it was back on and worked fine . It went off again that same but came back on later in the day and has worked fine for about the last month, but when it shut down the last time that was it. The fuses and switches appear to be working properly. Any ideas would sure be appreciated. Thanks, Ray
I am sorry you're having troubles. You will have to start at the source for troubleshooting. First, check the plug and outlet to make sure you're getting a good connection. Then move on from there to the power supply on the board. Thanks for watching! Please support the channel by subscribing.
Microwaves have a thermostat (or called a thermal switch) to shut the microwave down if it overheats. The thermostat may be “normally closed” at temperatures below, say 110°C, but above which will open the circuit, cutting power to the microwave. Then the thermostat may also have a “reset” or “close” temperature that’s lower, say 60°C, under which the circuit will close and the microwave will work again. That behavior may match some of what you were seeing, if the thermostat was starting to fail and malfunction. Check that component to make sure it doesn’t need replacement. They sell for $5 to $10 online.
The factory installed switches are different colors to distinguish between polarity. 2 are normally open and 1 is closed when not pressed. The switches on Amazon are all the same color. Thanks for watching! Please support the channel by subscribing.
I have a question replaced the fuse 2 weeks ago just blew again what type of switches do I need the fuse I replaced is a 20 amp 125 volt fuse model IS FFMV162LSA
There is a reason It's blowing the fuse. Check out my other video. It might help you diagnose the issue. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8PX6d-h6H9Y.htmlsi=UMcvQMaFQ4zhxGjj
Hi Allen, great video. I followed the instructions to replace the door switches and the switch holder. It does not blow fuses anymore but it will not start. The microwave does 3 quick beeps when I press start. Any ideas?
Might vary by brand, but for this microwave top and bottom are normally open and middle is normally closed. There should be a diagram on the side of the switches that tells you if it is open or closed. Thanks for watching!
I'm not so sure. But I unplugged the switch that is between the top and bottom. Or the second from the bottom if you will. And now, for the first time, I can open the door in the middle of the process and not blow the fuse or trigger the breaker. What is the purpose of that switch ? Thank you
I would highly recommend not to unplug any safety devices. The switches ensure that no radiation escapes the unit. Thanks for watching. Please subscribe !
Hi Allen, I replaced both lower KW3A switches (only one showed a tiny scorch mark). Light went on but all shut down when I closed the door. We're going shopping now, darn it.
Had the same issue. Changed all switches and burnt fuse. Worked fine for 2 days then when opening the door while cooking in progress, trips 15amp breaker. Any recommendations? Thanks
Does this blow fuses immediately when plugged in? Or immediately if you try to microwave something? Or after fuse replacement, might it work for a while, then fail? This latter is the problem with my microwave. Thanks.
It can be both situations. The electronics are very sensitive to the connection from the switch. The switch might have a bad connection or no connection at all. I hope you resolved your issues. Thanks for watching and please support the channel by subscribing.
Thank you. Our 9 yr old GE has started tripping the breaker a few seconds into cooking. I took out the three switches. The middle and bottom look fine. Pulling apart the top switch I found that the contacts were welded together (any idea how this would happen, we never open the door until it's finished). I pried them apart and hit the faces with emery cloth. It's still popping the breaker so I guess it's time for a new switch.
Hi perfect. But lately I try to do so.. I change the fuses and three switch.. it turn on the light nice when the door open. When I close it burn the fuses. How can I do?
One of the switches is different from the other two. Make sure you put them in the right spot. Also I would check the switches again to make sure you didn't get a faulty switch.
Broke a tag pulling the upper switch out. Question on the 3 switches it shows on the switches NC however one of them is normally open. Trying to purchase correct switch .Could you please provide link for correct switches. Excellent video thanks
Yoiilnz KW3A Microwave Oven Door Switch 16A 125/250V Door Interloc(Normally Open & Normally Close) (2 Normally Open and 1 Normally Close) www.amazon.com/dp/B07XZFNPZM/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_g_GZNQXWTSREP8TKJHWWG5
@@allensshenanigans348, What position are the 2 NOs and 1 NC in the holder? Previously did the repair and it failed again. I may have put the switches in the wrong places. We have this microwave. Thanks for the great video Allen.
@@TheIronKurtin I took pictures while taking mine apart.. and almost messed up the order as well lol The pictures showed me that normally open on top, normally closed in the middle, and normally open on the bottom. You can tell which switch is normally open or closed based on where the prong comes out of the switch. The position is different and on the switch the prong will line up with a normally open or normally closed depending on which switch you are looking at.
My microwave just died this evening, no lights, no display, probably a blown fuse. I don't have a diagram but have to ask why would a failure of one of the door interlock switches blow a fuse? Is it some kind of deadman switch or failsafe switch that intentionally blows if the switch malfunctions? Years ago, I worked on a ship radar system (Deca) and they had what's called a crowbar circuit, is something malfunctioned, it deliberately put a short on the power supply, forcing a fuse to blow. So why would a bad switch blow a fuse? Jim
It's a fail safe for this brand of microwave. It's caused a lot of problems with this microwave. If the switches get a little worn it will blow the fuse.
I'm getting power when I replace fuse. I can open and close doors and keep power but as soon as I start the actual cooking it blows immediately. Could this be the door switches or should I check something else first?
Our Frigidaire Microwave stopped working after the power shut off to the house. After the power came on again, the Microwave interior light comes on, but the unit will not start. The display screen won't light up either. Any ideas on this? If it is the switches that are bad, where can I order them and are all 3 the same or are they different? Thanks in advance.
I switched out the switches, found that one was bad but I replaced them all. However it still blows a fuse if I open the door while it is on. Any other suggestions?
Check out my new video. It goes over this issue. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8PX6d-h6H9Y.html Thanks for watching. Please support the channel by subscribing.
It can blow either or. Mine popped the breaker the first 5 times then switched to blowing the fuse after my dad forgot and opened the door while it was cooking for the 20th time.
@@allensshenanigans348 Right. Why does the door switch cause fuse to blow? When you close the microwave door, the striker on the door simply pushes the switches to make contact, the same as your light switch in your kitchen. Right? If your kitchen light switch is stuck in closed position, it does not blow your light bulb, not that I know of. Does it? Otherwise your light would blow everytime you close that switch. If door switches on the microwaves does not make contact, it means your microwave will not turn on. That is why you can not run your microwaves with the door open. Correct? If the switches are stuck in contact, it simply means your door is closed, that is all. After all that is what you are doing when you close that door, don't you? Correct? Manufacture safety means.......? :-)
The link to the amazon page says that 2 of the switches are open and 1 is closed...Which ones go where? Are the original ones that came with the microwave marked open or closed? Thank you
It takes the 3 switches and one of them is different polarity. Look at the pins where the plug goes on each switch. You can match them up with the original switches or the connector. Also there usually is a diagram on the side of the switch. Thanks for watching. Support the channel by subscribing!
Which switch is the "Open" Switch (where does it go) the Monitor switch (middle switch), the Primary Interlock switch (top switch), or the Door sensing switch (very bottom switch)?
I can't remember exactly, but I believe the top is normally closed and the bottom 2 are normally open. This can be checked with a multimeter. The pins on the switch are a little different. So the plugs will only work with the switch with the correct polarity. Just don't mix up the plugs.
You have to look at the terminals on the switches. You will see that one of them has an offset terminal. There should also be markings on the side of the switches indicating if it's normally open or closed. Thanks for watching.
@Bill Stanbridge You will need to find out the part number for your microwave. It is probably cheapest on Amazon, but I believe there is a website Partselect.com. You can go there and search by model number. Thanks for watching.
I changed the fuse, changed all 2 door switched then when I use the microwave for a test run the timer is not finished and I open the door, the fuse blows. What you think it's the problem
didnt fix my problem. i know the switches are good and being pressed down by the door. my fuses are good and so are all 3 of my thermostat controls. can't figure it out about to give up on it.
Sorry this didn't work for you. This is just the most common problem with this microwave. Might be one of your control boards. Thanks for watching. Please support the channel by subscribing.
I replace the fuses, and the microwave works again. BUT if I open the door while the microwave is still heating, it blows the fuse. Any idea what that means?
@@allensshenanigans348 Thanks I ordered the parts link on Amazon you provided The fuses were a little shorter but still worked The only switch I didn’t get was the one with a double prong in bottom center Then I really couldn’t tell which switches to use The old one had a black and white button New ones were black buttons and one red one
@@allensshenanigans348 I played with leveling switch positions by pressing the top switch opening with a screwdriver when fastening the switch assembly in place and did not have consistent results. Finally connected it with extender cord to another outlet - and it was fine. After that I figured out that with the cord it works even in the original outlet, so I left it this way. I guess the switch assembly geometry does not eliminate electrical spikes that happen when the switch shortens the circuit and the extender plays a choke coil role that controls the current eliminating the spikes.
My door switch keeps burning out. I put a new switch in microwave works fine if you open the door while the microwave is running it burns the switch every time. It’s the same microwave the microwave the Frigidaire and it’s happened to me with four different microwaves
Sorry to hear that. The only thing I can recommend is that you replace all the switches with new switches. I would get the brand of switches that were originally in it.
same problem for me. I'm going to replace the switches and the switch holder this time. I think the door is not pressing the button on the switches correctly and leading to switches burning out. there is some wear on the switch hold so hopefully changing it out will work
Same for me, I bought a brand new Fridgedaire microwave and have had to replace the door switches twice from people opening the door when the microwave is running. So disappointed in this brand, I have purchased a Fridgedaire refrigerator, microwave and dishwasher in the last three years and have had to do expensive repairs on ALL of them.
I encountered a lot of people with the same problem over and over with the same brand of microwave FRIGIDAIRE. DONT BUY FRIGIDAIRE BRAND ANYMORE. THEY SUCK
Check out my other video. It addresses the problem with this switch ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8PX6d-h6H9Y.html. The switch is critical to the microwave functioning properly. Thanks for watching. Please support the channel by subscribing.
@@allensshenanigans348 well thanks for the reply, and not answering the question, and giving me a link to the video that tell me nothing about bypassing the switch just to get me to watch another video of your, great trick there amigo. Im just gonna assume that if i bypass the switchs nothing will blow up being all they are is a light switch anyway. so crossing the wires should cause the mic to explode on me and as long as no one is stupid enought to turn it on while the door is open it should be relativily safe.
@@allensshenanigans348 if this does all work ill let you know if it does, cant try it right now cause well i blew both the new fuses i just bought cause i did not realize theres more than one switch and rushed the repair instead of taking my time, lol bad on my part.
@Aaron Brucker Sorry for trying to give you helpful information. Take it how you want, but I am not going to give you bad advice, especially when you can end up hurting yourself or someone else. Have a good day!
@@allensshenanigans348 well as long as no one is stupid enough to open the door and turn the microwave on then it would be safe. The problem is you didnt answer the question and you went and pushed a video on me that didnt even answer my question in the first place. But hey i should of just been smart enough not even ask since its just simple circutry im dealing with and should of realized the answer before i even asked.
